AC compressor dead? Is it a pain to change?
AC compressor dead? *3/3/2010 question update*
*3/3/2010 question update*
Since it appears to be clutch/bearing related, is there any value in trying to replace just that? Autozone sells an AC compressor bearing for $30. If it's a tremendous hassle, though, maybe it's not worth it and a replacement is in order. Labor from nissan alone is $150, which really isn't bad at all, so I just need to know what to have replaced...
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2000 max. Only with the engine running, when I turn the cabin air on at all there is a nasty tapping from the engine compartment. Engine off it's not there. I've found that when it's turned on the AC compressor pulley wheel visibly starts to wobble. With the fan off, despite its wheel obviously turning, it's perfectly aligned and no sound, but as soon as the fan is turned on (and this is for heat--the AC is totally off, btw), the pulley wheel starts to wobble and there is a bad knocking.
Everything still works including AC, but my guess is the compressor needs to be replaced. Is that a valid guess?
I see knock-offs for about $280. Are they ok? The labor on this sounds a pain. I replaced the drive belts last year but for this I'd have to also drain the AC, replace it, have it filled, including making sure the tubing is good, and maybe some other stuff so I can't really be bothered. Is it really a chore like it sounds? I hate working in my garage on top of slush and snow!
Since it appears to be clutch/bearing related, is there any value in trying to replace just that? Autozone sells an AC compressor bearing for $30. If it's a tremendous hassle, though, maybe it's not worth it and a replacement is in order. Labor from nissan alone is $150, which really isn't bad at all, so I just need to know what to have replaced...
------------
2000 max. Only with the engine running, when I turn the cabin air on at all there is a nasty tapping from the engine compartment. Engine off it's not there. I've found that when it's turned on the AC compressor pulley wheel visibly starts to wobble. With the fan off, despite its wheel obviously turning, it's perfectly aligned and no sound, but as soon as the fan is turned on (and this is for heat--the AC is totally off, btw), the pulley wheel starts to wobble and there is a bad knocking.
Everything still works including AC, but my guess is the compressor needs to be replaced. Is that a valid guess?
I see knock-offs for about $280. Are they ok? The labor on this sounds a pain. I replaced the drive belts last year but for this I'd have to also drain the AC, replace it, have it filled, including making sure the tubing is good, and maybe some other stuff so I can't really be bothered. Is it really a chore like it sounds? I hate working in my garage on top of slush and snow!
Last edited by SkoorbMax; Mar 3, 2010 at 09:42 AM.
Is there any reasonable chance this failure happened from me over tightening the belts when I did them last year? I did follow the guide in the Haynes on how to tension them but I have to ask.
Well that's two saying it's a pain in the ***, so great, now I know I don't have to even bother with it. Just break out the plastic.
Anyone know about the quality of internet-jobbies? I can get one online for about $280+shipping. I just this second called up Nissan and they want $805 for the job but just over $600 of that was for the compressor itself, so labor is only two hours.
Last edited by SkoorbMax; Mar 1, 2010 at 11:14 AM.
Man, I can't go a summer without AC, no sir!
Is there any reasonable chance this failure happened from me over tightening the belts when I did them last year? I did follow the guide in the Haynes on how to tension them but I have to ask.
Well that's two saying it's a pain in the ***, so great, now I know I don't have to even bother with it. Just break out the plastic.
Anyone know about the quality of internet-jobbies? I can get one online for about $280+shipping. I just this second called up Nissan and they want $805 for the job but just over $600 of that was for the compressor itself, so labor is only two hours.
Is there any reasonable chance this failure happened from me over tightening the belts when I did them last year? I did follow the guide in the Haynes on how to tension them but I have to ask.
Well that's two saying it's a pain in the ***, so great, now I know I don't have to even bother with it. Just break out the plastic.
Anyone know about the quality of internet-jobbies? I can get one online for about $280+shipping. I just this second called up Nissan and they want $805 for the job but just over $600 of that was for the compressor itself, so labor is only two hours.
Go back to Anandtech!

Found some compressors online including a "new" one on ebay for $295. Confirming whether it's really a Nissan OEM which seems doubtful at that price. Looks like I'll have to fix this at Nissan. A domestic dealer near me didn't want to do it.
They didn't even want to do it? LOL
I hate where the compressor is on this car, but what can you do.. I have an old Saturn as well which I keep just because its a joke to work on. Everything is easy. I love it.
The Nissan not so much. I'd attempt that job but its not one of the easier things a DIYer would take on.
It's more than just unbolting and bolting back in. Gotta deal with refrigerant etc.
I hate where the compressor is on this car, but what can you do.. I have an old Saturn as well which I keep just because its a joke to work on. Everything is easy. I love it.
The Nissan not so much. I'd attempt that job but its not one of the easier things a DIYer would take on.
It's more than just unbolting and bolting back in. Gotta deal with refrigerant etc.
It's more than just unbolting and bolting back in. Gotta deal with refrigerant etc.
Yep, and is why I'm not gonna bother this time. And really nothing is worse than playing around on a watery garage floor and then watching your tools get surface rust from the salt. Between this and my other vehicle every six months I have to spend several hours or more ****ing around with some repair.
My current DD is a 1996 Saturn and while the core vehicle is reliable (engine starts and runs great every day) it's always something else.
Last month alone I replaced:
front struts and mounts
tie rod ends
lower control arms with ball joints
had it aligned after
ignition control module and coils
gas door spring
This month so far not fixed:
broken windshield
cruise module works intermittently now
dome light door jam switch malfunctions when even slightly wet (carwash)
And for the grand finale the car will need if I keep using it
timing chain (oil neglect at one point)
clutch (220k kms, worn pressure plate)
Think my new to me 2k2 Max will be better?
I think it was a good idea to get a newer car.
Tell me about it!
My current DD is a 1996 Saturn and while the core vehicle is reliable (engine starts and runs great every day) it's always something else.
Last month alone I replaced:
front struts and mounts
tie rod ends
lower control arms with ball joints
had it aligned after
ignition control module and coils
gas door spring
This month so far not fixed:
broken windshield
cruise module works intermittently now
dome light door jam switch malfunctions when even slightly wet (carwash)
And for the grand finale the car will need if I keep using it
timing chain (oil neglect at one point)
clutch (220k kms, worn pressure plate)
Think my new to me 2k2 Max will be better?
I think it was a good idea to get a newer car.
My current DD is a 1996 Saturn and while the core vehicle is reliable (engine starts and runs great every day) it's always something else.
Last month alone I replaced:
front struts and mounts
tie rod ends
lower control arms with ball joints
had it aligned after
ignition control module and coils
gas door spring
This month so far not fixed:
broken windshield
cruise module works intermittently now
dome light door jam switch malfunctions when even slightly wet (carwash)
And for the grand finale the car will need if I keep using it
timing chain (oil neglect at one point)
clutch (220k kms, worn pressure plate)
Think my new to me 2k2 Max will be better?
I think it was a good idea to get a newer car.
The core of my max is good, still on all orig. struts/springs (133k miles), exhaust, etc. Main repairs have been a couple of o2 sensors, two slave clutch cylinders, and brakes. Of course the Bose stereo in it was a POS especially after I literally kicked that damn thing. Car still drives well, though, which is why i still have it and repairs to date have been pretty minor. Even a major repair would have me way ahead of the curve vs car payments since it's been paid off a few years now.
Wow, what a PITA!
The core of my max is good, still on all orig. struts/springs (133k miles), exhaust, etc. Main repairs have been a couple of o2 sensors, two slave clutch cylinders, and brakes. Of course the Bose stereo in it was a POS especially after I literally kicked that damn thing. Car still drives well, though, which is why i still have it and repairs to date have been pretty minor. Even a major repair would have me way ahead of the curve vs car payments since it's been paid off a few years now.
The core of my max is good, still on all orig. struts/springs (133k miles), exhaust, etc. Main repairs have been a couple of o2 sensors, two slave clutch cylinders, and brakes. Of course the Bose stereo in it was a POS especially after I literally kicked that damn thing. Car still drives well, though, which is why i still have it and repairs to date have been pretty minor. Even a major repair would have me way ahead of the curve vs car payments since it's been paid off a few years now.
The only times it pays off is at the pump. It's so good on gas.
I think the '02 even though I'm gonna be paying it off for half a year or so, is gonna be worth paying for. My new acquisition has about 90k miles.
That was my thought too when driving the Saturn. But last month was well north of $400 not including alignment.
The only times it pays off is at the pump. It's so good on gas.
I think the '02 even though I'm gonna be paying it off for half a year or so, is gonna be worth paying for. My new acquisition has about 90k miles.
The only times it pays off is at the pump. It's so good on gas.
I think the '02 even though I'm gonna be paying it off for half a year or so, is gonna be worth paying for. My new acquisition has about 90k miles.

I've not driven a 6th or 7th gen but on paper it doesn't seem like the maxima has gotten much better in almost a decade.
6th is still available with a manual so that's good but looks are subjective at best.
7th gen is no more manual yet they try to revive the whole 4DSC moniker? lame.
The 6th gen just looks like an Altima. The 7th looks really nice, the look grows on me, but yeah the lack of manual is blahtastic, which is why i highly doubt I'll own another Maxima despite loving this one so much I bought a 4th gen (and only sold it to buy a minivan for family hauling). Nissan did it because manuals don't sell so I don't really hold that against them, but it's not working for me. If the missus would tolerate a coupe it would open up a lot of doors (well, half as many, but you get my point). it's too bad CVT tech is so good now.
The 6th gen just looks like an Altima. The 7th looks really nice, the look grows on me, but yeah the lack of manual is blahtastic, which is why i highly doubt I'll own another Maxima despite loving this one so much I bought a 4th gen (and only sold it to buy a minivan for family hauling). Nissan did it because manuals don't sell so I don't really hold that against them, but it's not working for me. If the missus would tolerate a coupe it would open up a lot of doors (well, half as many, but you get my point). it's too bad CVT tech is so good now.
I do however really love the 3.5SE coupe (Altima)
I drove an 09 with 6MT, great car. (Although I'm biased, I owned a 3.5SE Altima 4 door prior to this as well)
Alternator doesn't look so good either... haha
Since it has to be decompressed first how do you do that or can you simply leak out the coolant slowly onto the floor/into the air?
*3/3/2010 question update*
Since it appears to be clutch/bearing related, is there any value in trying to replace just that? Autozone sells an AC compressor bearing for $30. If it's a tremendous hassle, though, maybe it's not worth it and a replacement is in order. Labor from nissan alone is $150, which really isn't bad at all, so I just need to know what to have replaced...
Since it appears to be clutch/bearing related, is there any value in trying to replace just that? Autozone sells an AC compressor bearing for $30. If it's a tremendous hassle, though, maybe it's not worth it and a replacement is in order. Labor from nissan alone is $150, which really isn't bad at all, so I just need to know what to have replaced...
*3/3/2010 question update*
Since it appears to be clutch/bearing related, is there any value in trying to replace just that? Autozone sells an AC compressor bearing for $30. If it's a tremendous hassle, though, maybe it's not worth it and a replacement is in order. Labor from nissan alone is $150, which really isn't bad at all, so I just need to know what to have replaced...
Since it appears to be clutch/bearing related, is there any value in trying to replace just that? Autozone sells an AC compressor bearing for $30. If it's a tremendous hassle, though, maybe it's not worth it and a replacement is in order. Labor from nissan alone is $150, which really isn't bad at all, so I just need to know what to have replaced...
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