The Volume ***** on those radio boards have to be desoldered from five points prior to removal. If you look it is pretty obvious where the desoldering needs to be done. (two big contact points one above and one below the **** and three little ones to the right of the ****) When you get underneath you will have to be careful as the contact patches for the volume **** lights will lift off the board very easily if heat is applied too long.

 

Thanks I see the 5 solder points, makes sense now.. I'll be careful and try not to head it up too much. Just enough to get it out and back on. Thanks for the info. I don't know what I'd do without you guys

On the climate control, right where the econ and mode buttons are its brighter compared to the rest of the unit. Just wanna trim some of the brightness down. The LED's that went in the were neo wedge, I probably should have done 360's but too late now. So maybe I can get some cellophane paper with a tint or something like Tuner said. I'm not too sure but I think if I mark the LED with a white out brush or something similar it will dim everything and still not fix the hotspots. Here's what I used:

 

The beam pattern of the neo wedge will give the hotspots, I don't know of a workaround for that aside from the 360* LED.

 

ok, I guess I'll just try and get some sort of a tint for now and play with it. Maybe I can use some scotch tape or get some 3M window film. If that doesn't satisfy me then I might just get some more 360's.

 

This. Don't even waste your time trying anything with those leds. It won't work. Buy the 360 Leeds. If ur not comfortable doing the resistor and solder thing I'm sure shinjiduo or americaner can make you some custom drop in ones for a reasonable price.

 

I was wondering, I did the LED's in the radio but left out doing the volumn **** LED just so I could check my work before proceeding with the hardest one. Does volume one have to be LED'ed to make up for the 3 led's that arn't working on the board? The stock color from the volume no longer work's either now. Just wondering if messes with the ohm's since it stock compared to the other LED's w/resisters, there for maybe cancelling the 3 LED's closest in the volumn **** LED.

Does this sound about right? I've checked all my work.. I've got solid connections and even put some non conductive protective pieces over the new soldering.

also I didn't state above here but 4 of the LED's work great and the other 3 minus the volume **** don't work. So there 8 all together. Confusing I know.. lol

 

You probably got the ones that don't work backwards. LED s are polarized...they only work one way

 

Started working on getting the 2 larger solder points off for the volume ****, its being a pain, I think my de-soldering braid is too thin.. Only little by little solder comes off at a time.

well if that's the case then that's a pretty easy easy fix. Thanks for the advise.

 

Possible that the leads are touching as well...so make sure that's not the case. Make sure too that your LEDs aren't blown...touching one lead to power and the other to ground, without a resistor there will blow them.

 

I checked with Opti Vision glasses, non of the leads are touching. I also haven't connected the LED's with out resisters but like you said they are prob backwards. I should be fine just switching (flip it) it or do I have to switch the resister too?

Too bad the LEd's from superbrightleds don't say which lead is positive and which is negative. Would help.

 

If you look at the datasheet for the LEDs they do tell you.

Basically, if you look inside the litle bulb, there are two pieces of metal inside...the SMALLER ONE IS POSITIVE.

And you should be able to be just fine swapping. The resistor does not NEED to be on one side or the other.

 

So is the cathode always going to be with the flat spot on the bulb?

 

yes. The anode (+) is always the smaller piece inside the bulb, and the cathode (-) is always aligned with the flat spot on the bulb housing, as well as teh larger piece inside the bulb (some bulbs don't have a flat spot...

With the little surface mount LEDs however it is not necessarily the case, since they don't have the "flat spot", since they don't have a bulb shape.

 

Sweet info man, thanks

 

It's what I do brothers and sisters, it's what I do

 

That not entirely true. Some Red LEDs in particular blood red or IR actually have the big portion as the positive lead. The only real way to tell 100% is that the Anode (+) is always longer lead than the cathode (-). Even super cheap Ebay LEDs are produced this way.

 

not always...

 

Having trouble getting the 3 small solder points for the volume ****. I de-soldered as much as possible and I've been trying to heat all three of them so I can slide them out. I already have the 2 larger points loose but these other 3 are a pain.

 

^This has always been my experience. Never seen anything different.

Never seen it, so this is interesting info, thanks!

BUT I can assure you 100% that the length of the leads outside of the capsule are NOT an indicator of polarity. This is NOT a universal thing. I've had many that are short for the Anode and many that are long for the Anode. Can't go off that.

Much more reliable to go off the smaller contact inside the Capsule is Postitive (+)/ Anode.

 

Both are true ammo strips of leds are trimmed to equil length for use in insertion machines.tri color,blinking and uv leds internals are usally oppisite of other leds.if you are having issues desoldering hit the connection with some Paste Flux and place the braid on the connection first before heating.make sure rhe tip is clean and tinned!

Sent from my ****

 

ok I figured it out, I didn't even have to de-solder the 3 connect's. Once I de-soldered the 2 larger connects I just bent the button back giving me enough room the replace the light.

Just hooked up the radio and all the LED's are working great.. no hot spots at all.. Now I'm not very satisfied with the neo wedge bulbs I got for the climate control so I think I will be ordering some more 360's real soon.

 

 

More progress..

I've got the rear windows switches finished and started on the front passenger side. This is a little more difficult for me.. Took me 45 mins to install the led and resister for the passerger side window lock. So much time bending and kraming it together. There's not much room and it had to be pretty small for the cover to slide together without hitting it. I hope I have the (+) and (-) right since I could not tell on the board.

I can tell already the driver side one is gonna be fun.. lol

 

nice work.

TIP: remove the old LED from the rear switches, and use that to 'mirror' the bends in the new LED. Use Needle nose pliers across the bend point on the leads to assist an even bend.

Also make the bend before cutting anything in case it's not accurate.

 

Well everything is done and working, the only problem I have is the driver side window switches are real dirty and it makes the bright white look a little nasty. The lock switch looks nice and white but the window switches (Auto) are giving a yellowish glaze. I tried cleaning the top with a rag and a little water but it only helped a little. Any suggestions?

 

Chances are you've got dirt and grime underneath...

Take a qtip and some windex and use that on the top of the switch.

May want to take out the switch cover assy as well and blow somw compressed air in there...and make sure all your LEDs are aligned, pointing straight upwards.

 

if that doesn't work, try Lens restore (same creamy substance used for headlights)

 

Sounds good, I will try those thing.. I also made sure the LED's were sticking straight up when soldered.

 

I have never, ever had the leads of an LED not follow this protocol. Even so if you ever use an IR or Blood red LED you'll see what I mean. I actually though the LED was broken then I thought the board I was soldering to was broken. Only to realize if I had paid attention to the leads I could have saved some time and headaches.

 

Oh I see, So LEDs on both extreme sides of the light spectrum have the internals reversed. With that much being sadi I guess the only way to be sure is to check ahead of time.

 

I can't deal with it, I'm going LED nutz and I want to do everything now. I was trying to find some array's to replace the door/map/dome lights. I'm looking for white array, something around 6950k color temp.. Here is a thread I saw them and the direction I want to head, unless there are other good alternatives. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ure-heavy.html

 

I'm working on selling a package that has everything for the 4th and 5th gens (door, map(s), trunk, dome, etc...white or blue. VERY similiar to the thread you posted about...)

If you're interested...you wouldn't have to worry about finding the "best" ones or waiting on shipping from hong kong...

I"m not quite ready to make them available yet on a large basis but soon I will be (within 3 weeks methinks)

 

Sounds good man, I would be more that down to get a bundle from you.. After searching it seems like kind of a hassle finding these arrays. Sux their hard to find in the US.

 

yeah, I"m working on building stock before I offer them up to the org. You actually had me jump the gun with mentioning this

But basically it's going to be fully tested, complete kits for the door / map(s) / trunk / license plate / dome lights.

Give me a few weeks to get stuff organized enough to throw them out here

 

Sweet man, jump on it and I'm in forsure.

 

Alex has good stuff (Tyutunnik). That's all I use.

BUT he just sold his business, good for him! I bought up some of his last inventory, but that's it for him in that business.

Hope Amerikaner can hook you up, he's a good guy, if he can source quality materials that will be a solid source for the .org.

 

Yeah I read that Alex had stopped selling his kits...he seemed like a good guy, for sure.

Actually, looking at his stuff is what inspired me to start doing mine And thanks, Tuner, for the good words!

 

Yeah both of you guys (Amerikaner and Tuner) have been a wonderful source of knowledge for me and many other I'm sure. Shinjiduo was also a great as well. I couldn't have done the LED project without your guys help to tell ya the truth. Thanks again

 

hey how u do all that?

 

Some patience and a lot of soldering.