i have no idea about the resistors. Ive never looked into it since my heaters are still good. should be pretty easy though, just cut and solder the heater wires to the resistor

 

Try replacing the gas cap with a OEM cap. Worked for me, after wasting money on a o2 sensor.

 

What resistors did you end up going with? Did it fix the problem?

Shameless bump of an old thread... it's inspection time and I'm still getting the heater circuit codes.

 

What's regulation for passing emissions there?

I know here we need all but one monitor set, so I cleared my SES light, waited for all the monitors to set but the O2s, and took it through. SES light came back on five miles down the road from emissions

 

Edit: my phone likes double-posts for some reason.

 

The SES comes on too fast for the 0158/0138 (heater circuit high voltage) codes for that to work for me.

 

I don't think OP even owns his Max anymore to be honest...

I think your best bet, if you can get a voltage tester, would be to get a reading from a stock Maxima, get a reading from your heater circuit, and go from there.

 

I don't think OP even owns his Max anymore to be honest...

I think your best bet, if you can get a voltage tester, would be to get a reading from a stock Maxima, get a reading from your heater circuit, and go from there.

 

Let me just go grab my stock maxima!

Quite a few people on here have successfully used resistors to simulate the heater circuits, but most of the threads about it have no definitive answers. OP seems likely to have gotten his problem fixed so I figured I'd ask...

 

You need a total of (4) 10 Ohm, 10 watt ceramic resistors.

Two wired in series for each sensor.

 

I was just sayin'...wait till someone leaves their car running at the gas station and isn't paying attention. You know.

But yeah, I've heard of it to. I just wish people would post more conclusive stuff when they do this. It seems like everyone likes to post their issue, resolve it, and then never tell us how they fixed it.

 

Brett

Dude sold his car a while back, damn sparks, grave digga!

 

What else do you want to know?

I can check the colors of the wires the next time I go outside if you want...

This has been working for me for a little over a year and a half now. You just need to be careful where you mount the resistors because they get hot.

 

Just did it this afternoon cleared the codes and drove around a bit... Come home and check, still have pending 0138, 0158, 1146, 1166... Must have done something wrong. Doh.

 

Damn alot of codes pop up with the headers hope I don't have a headache like this or find a smog guy....to help me out...

 

I ended up fixing the problem. It was a bad O2 simulator. With working O2 simulators and the stock sensors still plugged in (zip tied out of sight in the engine bay), you won't have any problem with codes.

 

I was never able to find a thread where someone successfuly did the resistor mod and reported back that they passed inspection or kept the CEL off permanently. The 10ohm 10 watt ceramic resisters never worked for me at all the CEL never went off. I was able to get 4 omh 50 watt resisters 1 for each heater which does shut the CEL off randomly. Some times for weeks some times for just one start up but this was good enough to get the car inspected. Not sure if this is helpful to you sparks but maybe for someone searching in the future.

 

Depend son where you live, but some places/states wont just go by the notion that your light is off, but more so bu actually checking ECU/Emissions status from your ECU.

 

MA checks from the ECU, the O2 sim + resistors worked fine so it reads normal when the CEL is off. As for why the CEL turns back on some times it must be too much or too little resistance based on if the car turns the heaters on/off?