SES LIGHT WON't EFFING GO AWAY!

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Mar 29, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #1  
Got headers, I just got my o2 sim working correctly (had a blown o2 sensor fuse) And reset my ecu. Plugged it up to a obd2 and it read nothing, all o2 sensors were being read as funtioning. It wasn't an autozone obd2 but one that plugs up to your laptop and reads every spec. DRove 20 miles and orange light pops back up. Wth.

Headers + o2 sim... Why isn't this thing going + staying away?

Anyone?
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Mar 29, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #2  
So...let me get this straight. You have a SES light with no codes?
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Mar 29, 2010 | 06:46 PM
  #3  
Did you use cruise control? When I need my SES to stay off, I just reset the ECU and remember not to use cruise control... for some reason, using it causes the O2 sensor codes to pop up immediately.
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Mar 29, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #4  
Quote: Did you use cruise control? When I need my SES to stay off, I just reset the ECU and remember not to use cruise control... for some reason, using it causes the O2 sensor codes to pop up immediately.
Yes I did, and now that you mention it I think that's why! Dude you're awesome. haha, Appreciate it. And The codes would always pop back up at both secondary sensors. As soon as I used cruse control it seemed to just pop it right on, I'll double check tomorrow. I've been using cruise tons more the past 2 weeks for some random reason.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 04:51 AM
  #5  
Quote: Yes I did, and now that you mention it I think that's why! Dude you're awesome. haha, Appreciate it. And The codes would always pop back up at both secondary sensors. As soon as I used cruse control it seemed to just pop it right on, I'll double check tomorrow. I've been using cruise tons more the past 2 weeks for some random reason.
Yeah I can't explain why cruise control triggers the codes, but it certainly does. I just leave it on currently, but I spent some time struggling with it when I needed my inspection a couple of months ago.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 06:56 AM
  #6  
Learn something new everyday.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 07:42 AM
  #7  
Quote: Learn something new everyday.
Sure do....
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Mar 30, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #8  
never ever heard of cruise control setting off the check engine light for the o2 sensor. How?
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Mar 30, 2010 | 05:45 PM
  #9  
Quote: never ever heard of cruise control setting off the check engine light for the o2 sensor. How?
me neither, does this mean you guys with this problem cant use your cruise control anymore or you'll get a ses light? Or is this not an issue once the ecu has relearned everything?
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Mar 30, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #10  
I have the same problem. I am running a simulator for both of the secondary o2's.

If I cruise at 55 or use cruise control, I will sometimes get a 1147 and 1167 code.

I passed inspection like this, as you are allowed to have 1 not ready monitor in New Jersey for vehicles newer than 2001. Vehicles between 96 and 01 are allowed 2 not ready monitors.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #11  
Quote: never ever heard of cruise control setting off the check engine light for the o2 sensor. How?
When you are using an O2 sim with zip tied sensors, using cruise control will sometimes cause it to throw codes for the secondary sensors. I've never seen an explanation of what causes it, though.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #12  
Quote: When you are using an O2 sim with zip tied sensors, using cruise control will sometimes cause it to throw codes for the secondary sensors. I've never seen an explanation of what causes it, though.
Ugh.. It's still here..... Still got a cel light. If I reset it, and drive automatically, It won't come on. As soon as I turn the car off after reseting and driving, 1 mile later, it comes right on... Sparks, I might be paying you a visit man. Code for both secondary o2 sensors..... Not sure what it is. o2 sim is not working.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 07:02 PM
  #13  
Doesn't happen to me with my dual sim and zip tied sensors. You're 100% certain it's all wired up right? Check the new code and see if it's a heater code or voltage code
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Mar 30, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #14  
Quote: Doesn't happen to me with my dual sim and zip tied sensors. You're 100% certain it's all wired up right? Check the new code and see if it's a heater code or voltage code
I'll get the exact codes tomorrow. I'll post a video up in a sec of everything.
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Mar 30, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #15  
One of the o2's has a messed up tip, would that trigger both o2's still? I'll run exact codes tomorrow. As for the wiring i'm 99% sure it's correct. I'll post a video tomorrow since pics dont come out clear. Here's another thread I had posted with some decent pics. I'm not sure if you can make anything out. O2 sim is blinking..

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...help-asap.html
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Mar 31, 2010 | 09:19 AM
  #16  
On my way to autozone to get exact codes, Before though this is what I found....

Could this lead to BOTH secondary o2's throwing codes?



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Mar 31, 2010 | 09:20 AM
  #17  
Don't ask about the intake manifold:$ I was bored and never finished the project...
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Mar 31, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #18  
p0138- High voltage bank 1 sensor 2

p0158- High voltage bank 2 sensor 2

p0037- ???? Low voltage bank 1 sensor 2??
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Mar 31, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #19  
if the codes you get arent heater circuit codes, which i dont know if those are, then your problem is either with the sim or the wiring.

What were those pictures showing? I couldnt tell
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Mar 31, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #20  
Quote: if the codes you get arent heater circuit codes, which i dont know if those are, then your problem is either with the sim or the wiring.

What were those pictures showing? I couldnt tell
The pics show that the o2 sim is blinking and that one of the secondary o2 sensors tip is broken off.
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Mar 31, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #21  
Alright, i'm gonna go out on a limb and assume the sensor is screwed since it's reading high voltage one day and low the next. And i'm hopping that that clears the codes for both o2's..
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Mar 31, 2010 | 11:53 AM
  #22  
Did you have these codes before the header install?
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Mar 31, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #23  
Quote: Did you have these codes before the header install?
Nope, but I did get a new o2 sensor that i got for dirt cheap because.. Well. It's a long story. I didn't have these codes but the oem o2 sensor that was on the car before header instal didn't want to come out. So it was cutt and just the harness was connected. I now bought a o2 from a local here that was beat up (in the pic) but for a pretty cheap price. I figured i'd see if that worked. But since that sensor that is beat up is reading high voltage one day and low the next i'm assuming it's fried. Hopefully a replacement one should do the trick I hope. (fingers crossed) autozone has it for 120. And the universal one that needs splicing is 60.. I'm waitin for someone to part it out..

Edit: will a 3.0 o2 sensor from a 01 work on a 02 3.5?
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Mar 31, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #24  
Quote: I figured i'd see if that worked. But since that sensor that is beat up is reading high voltage one day and low the next i'm assuming it's fried. Hopefully a replacement one should do the trick I hope. (fingers crossed) autozone has it for 120. And the universal one that needs splicing is 60.. I'm waitin for someone to part it out..

Edit: will a 3.0 o2 sensor from a 01 work on a 02 3.5?
yeah a 3.0 O2 will work. I dont know if the connector is the same, but since all you need is the heater circuit to be connected it will be fine.
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Mar 31, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #25  
Quote: Nope, but I did get a new o2 sensor that i got for dirt cheap because.. Well. It's a long story. I didn't have these codes but the oem o2 sensor that was on the car before header instal didn't want to come out. So it was cutt and just the harness was connected. I now bought a o2 from a local here that was beat up (in the pic) but for a pretty cheap price. I figured i'd see if that worked. But since that sensor that is beat up is reading high voltage one day and low the next i'm assuming it's fried. Hopefully a replacement one should do the trick I hope. (fingers crossed) autozone has it for 120. And the universal one that needs splicing is 60.. I'm waitin for someone to part it out..

Edit: will a 3.0 o2 sensor from a 01 work on a 02 3.5?
I wouldn't. Two different part numbers. I am sure it will screw in but the parts are different somehow.

EDIT: Nevermind. I just remember you've got them ziptied. LOL!!
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Mar 31, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #26  
Quote: yeah a 3.0 O2 will work. I dont know if the connector is the same, but since all you need is the heater circuit to be connected it will be fine.
I just need the harnesses to connect correctly.
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Mar 31, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #27  
did you always have an ses since the headers were put on?
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Mar 31, 2010 | 02:04 PM
  #28  
Quote: did you always have an ses since the headers were put on?
Yes. And a ziptie huh? The first code I was pulling was no activity in both banks. I got the o2 sim and now it's reading high voltage on both. So it's readin that they are plugged in just "high voltage" which i'm assuming means the o2 is gone. If you look at the pics I posted you'll see what I mean.. The tip is gone, it was dragged for a while on the floor while driving before noticing it..
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Mar 31, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #29  
Well ****, I should be denounced to a noob... Wow..... I had both white wires spliced on the same o2 sensor... Moved one to the second o2 sensor and ses is gone.....
Just saved myself 120 on a new o2...... What a relief.......
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Mar 31, 2010 | 04:14 PM
  #30  
lol. I TOLD you to check that wiring. glad you got it figured out now, enjoy that light free dash
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Mar 31, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #31  
Quote: lol. I TOLD you to check that wiring. glad you got it figured out now, enjoy that light free dash
Yeah, they were wired wrong.. But guess what.. Still ses for same codes. Ah FUKKKCCC..... I'm really thinking it's that screwed up sensor? Anyone see the pics I posted? That sensor is reading high and low voltage. 2 codes from it..

Anyone know where I can get a oem direct plug in o2 sensor for cheap? Or a decent deal?

Edit: Anyone know if this will fit the bank 1 sensor 2 location?? It's not bosch but any luck? it's 60 bucks...

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
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Mar 31, 2010 | 09:06 PM
  #32  
that sensor shouldnt matter. if its wired correctly there shouldnt be any voltage going through that sensor except for the heater
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Mar 31, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #33  
Quote: that sensor shouldnt matter. if its wired correctly there shouldnt be any voltage going through that sensor except for the heater
Both sensors are tucked under my engine cuver, they are NOT plugged into their bungs. Would that throw a code without the 2 (10) ohm resistors? I honestly don't know where to go.. The o2 sim is now 100% wired in correctly.. Both sensors are tucked under engine cover..
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Apr 1, 2010 | 07:18 AM
  #34  
I guess you could try a new O2, but that isn't a cheap way to find out one way or another. Maybe try different O2 sims?

When I was getting a bad code for the bank 1 rear O2 heater voltage and replaced it, I immediately got a P0420 code (bank 1 precat) so it might be the sims aren't working right to cover the missing precats.
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Apr 1, 2010 | 07:52 AM
  #35  
HEre's a pic of instal. I just got another o2 sim, The crappy o2 sensor itself shouldn't matter since it's readings are cut to allow the o2 sim to function.

The white circled ends that go no where were the ones leading back into the harness(towards the sensor itself). They are spliced into the wires leading back to the ecu.. Anyone see any mistake?


Before I never cut the white heater wires leading from the harness to the ecu. Which is why I was throwing the high voltage code. (I had the sim+ normal heater from harness to ecu) I now cut the white wire on the back of each harness(blue and green) and am just running the o2 sim spliced into the white wire on each leading to the ecu... Reset ecu.. Assumed I'd be codeless now.. And bam... Right back on..

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Apr 1, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #36  
I only cut the black leads man from the o2 sensor.......I believe.
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Apr 1, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #37  
I just spliced it according to puppetmasters. I forgot to cut the white heater wires. I did that and got rid of the 138 and 158- the high voltage codes. Just pulling a p0037 now which is low voltage bank 1 sensor 2? And now I REALLY have no clue where to go?....

Pulling low imput for that sensor.. btw..
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Apr 1, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #38  
Can I do the 10 ohm resistors and completely be sure to knock out these codes?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2062291#

One o2 is bang'd up, and reading around it seems the o2 sim just sends the voltage needed and not the heater codes. Which btw i'm pretty sure is a bad o2 sensor itself..
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Apr 1, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #39  
ok, so I just checked and saw those are heater circuit codes, so unless you wired something wrong its totally unrelated to the O2 sim installation. You either need a new sensor or the resistors.
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Apr 1, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #40  
Quote: ok, so I just checked and saw those are heater circuit codes, so unless you wired something wrong its totally unrelated to the O2 sim installation. You either need a new sensor or the resistors.
Yup. I got that conclusion about 15 minutes ago. Getting the resistors since it's tons cheaper lol. Just cut the red/yellow wire and connect one end of the reisistor to that. And cut the black wire and connect t he other end of the resistor to that correct?

Also the pic of the o2 sensor I posted shows it's f'd
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