OBX headers without tune?
OBX headers without tune?
So right now, I'm running NWP Spacers and the GAB mod... and that's it. I plan on installing OBX headers this summer on stock exhaust (for now, and maybe permanently). My question is this: will there be noticeable gains even if I don't do a tune with my headers in? I really can't afford the whole tuning process right now, but can do headers. Thanks for any info! 
everyone already answered your question but i have a question for you, which obx headers are you looking to purchase? i think v2 is out of stock and if/when they are back in stock, i think they're raising the prices
You will be completely fine driving around with headers without a tune. You will not run rich when you are driving normally because the AFR is controlled by the oxygen sensors(closed loop).
You MAY run rich in open loop (above 3000RPM || 40% throttle), but every car is different. I happened to run LEAN in open loop, which can actually be worse.
You can always get a dyno with an AFR readout to see how far out of whack your AFR is.
I am assuming you are talking about a SAFC/VAFC if you are asking this question in the first place.
You MAY run rich in open loop (above 3000RPM || 40% throttle), but every car is different. I happened to run LEAN in open loop, which can actually be worse.
You can always get a dyno with an AFR readout to see how far out of whack your AFR is.
I am assuming you are talking about a SAFC/VAFC if you are asking this question in the first place.
Noticeable gains. No SES
I will be tuned on a EU
Yeah, I know there aren't any OBX headers available right now that are "technically" for the 3.5... but there are some on ebay that should work that are advertised as being for 95-01 years (V1's? I dunno) Anyway, the Y-pipe is not equal length, which isn't ideal... but from what I can gather, I should still see about the same gains, even if the sound is slightly different. I don't want to spend more or wait for the V2's to come back (unless they're back by summer, and the same price (~$350 shipped))
And yes, I was talking about tuning with a SAFC or VAFC or the like... is this the only way a dyno place can tune my AFR? Or can they do it with equipment they have?
And yes, I was talking about tuning with a SAFC or VAFC or the like... is this the only way a dyno place can tune my AFR? Or can they do it with equipment they have?
Ok, thanks knight.
So if I run headers for 6 months to a year before I get a tune it's not gonna hurt anything is it? Also, what's the best piggyback to get on a budget? The common concensus seems to be the safc II... ?
So if I run headers for 6 months to a year before I get a tune it's not gonna hurt anything is it? Also, what's the best piggyback to get on a budget? The common concensus seems to be the safc II... ?
Last edited by jowo9; Apr 1, 2010 at 07:38 AM.
You'll be fine running for a year without a tune, but it depends on how much you beat on your car.
If you go into open loop everyday, then there is the possibility of producing extra carbon deposits and damaging sensors, but you should be fine.
And you may want to look into the VAFC-II. It has more tuning points so you can tune in closer intervals.
If you go into open loop everyday, then there is the possibility of producing extra carbon deposits and damaging sensors, but you should be fine.
And you may want to look into the VAFC-II. It has more tuning points so you can tune in closer intervals.
You'll be fine running for a year without a tune, but it depends on how much you beat on your car.
If you go into open loop everyday, then there is the possibility of producing extra carbon deposits and damaging sensors, but you should be fine.
And you may want to look into the VAFC-II. It has more tuning points so you can tune in closer intervals.
If you go into open loop everyday, then there is the possibility of producing extra carbon deposits and damaging sensors, but you should be fine.
And you may want to look into the VAFC-II. It has more tuning points so you can tune in closer intervals.
All it does is manipulate the voltage coming from the MAF into the ECU based on TPS and RPM values.
The reason that people like the VAFC over the SAFC is because the VAFC has twice as many tuning points, so you are able to tune in, say, 50rpm increments rather than 100rpm.
If you can get a good deal on an SAFC, then grab it, because the difference isn't that important.
Also, I was reading about some 4th gen people with VQ35 swaps using the VAFC to control the VAIS.
How did you remove EGR without SES?? I read every thread possible and noone has been able to figure it out.
So either safc or vafc will work. But what would be the best thing(s) to get if I want to be able to tune AFR without taking it to a dyno place?? And how does that work?
Maybe a WBO2 to get the AFR within your error bars. But how would you know if your 'tune' is effective if you have no power results to show for it .....
Unless you want to go into serious tuning and want something for a good price that's a good piggyback, go with the vafc-2. There's one here locally in Raleigh nc on craigslist for $100.00. See if he ships, That's a STEAL imo..
What does the whole tuning process involve once I get the VAFC II and take my car to a dyno tuning place??? I'm definitely new to tuning and haven't been able to find any good solid info in the last couple days...
Unequal length Y pipe changes the sound (for reasons I cannot for sure explain) but the sound quality will be up to what cat-back you get.
So, If I do as I plan, and go with the OBX's with unequal y-pipe on stock cat and cat-back, what will the sound be like? Everyone's saying the sound will be "bad", but I don't understand exactly what it will be like. Does anyone have experience with unequal y-pipe sound? I would think performance would be almost exactly the same, and unless the OBX's that are technically for the 3.5 are in by summer, I'll be going with the ones for the 95-01 that have an unequal Y.