Crack in my OBX Headers
Crack in my OBX Headers
I'm sure a bunch of people have been waiting for this thread. I am not complaining, as I got these for like $350 shipped, but this does prove the "you get what you pay for" theory.
I was messing with my exhaust under my car when I noticed a VERY thin, hairline crack on the collector of the front header.
It doesn't leak, so I am not that concerned, but I have some questions about it.
Do you recommend welding the crack, or should I wait to see if it gets worse?
if so,
Is there anything special I should know before I weld this stainless steel?
How can I prevent the weld from rusting?
I am guessing this happened because these are the "v3" headers, so they only have 1 flex pipe. The v2's have a flex pipe on the front header, where these do not.
They probably weren't the "perfect" size (angle of the V), and the thermal stress probably caused this crack.
You can barely see it in this picture, but if you look very closely, you will see a very thin black line (the crack).
I was messing with my exhaust under my car when I noticed a VERY thin, hairline crack on the collector of the front header.
It doesn't leak, so I am not that concerned, but I have some questions about it.
Do you recommend welding the crack, or should I wait to see if it gets worse?
if so,
Is there anything special I should know before I weld this stainless steel?
How can I prevent the weld from rusting?
I am guessing this happened because these are the "v3" headers, so they only have 1 flex pipe. The v2's have a flex pipe on the front header, where these do not.
They probably weren't the "perfect" size (angle of the V), and the thermal stress probably caused this crack.
You can barely see it in this picture, but if you look very closely, you will see a very thin black line (the crack).
My Gen I Cattmans had a bit of a situation a little over a year ago where I plugged the EGR, semi similar. I just removed it, took it to a muffler shop, they re-welded it, and it’s been fine ever since.
im suprised this thread havent blown up more than it did... thats unfortunate but i dont think it proves the theory of you get what you pay for as 1 out of the many doesnt prove the theory imo... proves it to you though i understand
i dont see it but i dont doubt its there. I dont think this proves anything about "get what you pay for". Ive heard of several people that have had multiple cracking issues with their cattman headers. I think its just the nature of aftermarket stainless headers
I've got the same issue. Only mine's bad enough that I'm actually getting a ticking from the crack. Not sure where it is, though.
I'm just going to pull the headers off and have a shop re-weld all the welds. Probably the best thing to do in your case, too. The welds OBX used from the get-go seem pretty insignificant, IMO.
I'm just going to pull the headers off and have a shop re-weld all the welds. Probably the best thing to do in your case, too. The welds OBX used from the get-go seem pretty insignificant, IMO.
I had a DC Sport ceramic coated header on my old Accord for 6 years with zero problems. Wonder if the coating and different steel makes a difference?
I don't have a problem with the headers. I just hate that mine are ticking somewhere because of a crack.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; Apr 6, 2010 at 08:17 PM.
well, everyone's experience is quite different. some people on here have been running cattman and hotshot since 03/04 and no cracks, others have had multiples. I think its just the luck of how they fit on your car and how often they are shaken hard by the road. If they bolt together perfectly with no stress whatsoever (AKA, absolutely perfect fit) they will likely last longer than somebody who has to "pull" them together with the bolts
well, everyone's experience is quite different. some people on here have been running cattman and hotshot since 03/04 and no cracks, others have had multiples. I think its just the luck of how they fit on your car and how often they are shaken hard by the road. If they bolt together perfectly with no stress whatsoever (AKA, absolutely perfect fit) they will likely last longer than somebody who has to "pull" them together with the bolts
I have worn motor mounts, which means my engine likes to flop around a whole lot. I can see where someone who's aggressive with their car could cause cracking just from the motor moving around naturally, similar to driving over bumps, etc.
Oh, let's not forget people who are slammed to 2" off the ground. I'm sure bottoming out can't be good on the y-pipe.
I've had them for a little over one year.
And I understand where you all are coming from in that one incident does not represent the majority of the headers out there, but I do recall another set of OBX headers like mine for sale in the classifieds with a similar problem.
I don't think it has to do with the engine movement because this part should theoretically see no movement at all. On the version with the unequal length y-pipe, there is another flex section where the front header bolts to the y pipe.
I think the problem is that the headers weren't the right angle in regards to the V shape of the engine, and when the flanges were bolted to the heads, it put a lot of stress on that joint.
But for what I paid, I'm not complaining...
And thanks knight, that's the kind of info I was looking for.
And shadyonedeath, this was taken on my cell phone lol
And I understand where you all are coming from in that one incident does not represent the majority of the headers out there, but I do recall another set of OBX headers like mine for sale in the classifieds with a similar problem.
I don't think it has to do with the engine movement because this part should theoretically see no movement at all. On the version with the unequal length y-pipe, there is another flex section where the front header bolts to the y pipe.
I think the problem is that the headers weren't the right angle in regards to the V shape of the engine, and when the flanges were bolted to the heads, it put a lot of stress on that joint.
But for what I paid, I'm not complaining...
And thanks knight, that's the kind of info I was looking for.
And shadyonedeath, this was taken on my cell phone lol
I don't think it has to do with the engine movement because this part should theoretically see no movement at all. On the version with the unequal length y-pipe, there is another flex section where the front header bolts to the y pipe.
I think the problem is that the headers weren't the right angle in regards to the V shape of the engine, and when the flanges were bolted to the heads, it put a lot of stress on that joint.
I think the problem is that the headers weren't the right angle in regards to the V shape of the engine, and when the flanges were bolted to the heads, it put a lot of stress on that joint.
The other thing I can see putting stress on the headers is the fact that the flex section is short. Having that constantly pulling at the headers, and the movement of the engine, I can see where that could cause stress cracks from continued movement back and forth. I had quite a battle with the flex section trying to get it to bolt up to the cat.
I guess I should've explained myself more thoroughly in my last post.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; Apr 6, 2010 at 08:40 PM.
I'm guessing you got yours used?
Let me know how it turns out for you. If I were you, I would replace the flex pipe with a higher quality unit, while I had the headers out.
My flex pipe makes a little noise.
Let me know how it turns out for you. If I were you, I would replace the flex pipe with a higher quality unit, while I had the headers out.
My flex pipe makes a little noise.
Yeah. I got a good deal on them, though. Can't go wrong for $270 shipped.
I was planning on getting a longer flex section put in while I'm getting my new muffler tacked on. I'm tired of my cannon. It sounds great (from the outside, mind you), but it looks so ridiculous.
But at the same time, I've heard Megan makes a test pipe that's an inch longer than our cats. So I'm wondering if that would be the route to go. I only need to have the cat on during emissions. I'll have to see when it comes down to prices. My flex section whistles when I'm heavy on the throttle. It doesn't really bother me, though. I think some of the looks I get from people when it whistles are kind of comical.
Maybe I'll take that Z res off your hands and weld it in line with my res for a couple of laughs while I'm at it.
I was planning on getting a longer flex section put in while I'm getting my new muffler tacked on. I'm tired of my cannon. It sounds great (from the outside, mind you), but it looks so ridiculous.
But at the same time, I've heard Megan makes a test pipe that's an inch longer than our cats. So I'm wondering if that would be the route to go. I only need to have the cat on during emissions. I'll have to see when it comes down to prices. My flex section whistles when I'm heavy on the throttle. It doesn't really bother me, though. I think some of the looks I get from people when it whistles are kind of comical.
Maybe I'll take that Z res off your hands and weld it in line with my res for a couple of laughs while I'm at it.
I am thinking about actually cutting the fart can off my ebay catback and using the Z resonator as a muffler. I'd just run a single pipe out from it.
And on eBay, there are two different resonated test pipes that you can get for $30 shipped. One is 12.xx inches long and the other is 13.xx inches long. They are identical listings, just the length is 1 inch different on the two.
What muffler did you get?
And on eBay, there are two different resonated test pipes that you can get for $30 shipped. One is 12.xx inches long and the other is 13.xx inches long. They are identical listings, just the length is 1 inch different on the two.
What muffler did you get?
I've got the eBay EvoII knock-off right now. I'm just getting a heavily-packed, dual-tip glass pack muffler from my buddy. He runs the welding shop where I get my work done, and he deals pretty legit stuff.
I'm just looking to cut back on drone since I do a lot of highway driving. With the OBX, over 75, things aren't too noisy because of the rice-rocket sound, but the 4AT likes to fall right into the loudest part of the RPM band at 65-70 MPH.
I also noticed the muffler on the eBay knockoff of the EvoII likes to rub on the rear bumper. Moreso now that I have my OBX, and they somehow conveniently forgot the hanger that holds the y-pipe up before the cat.
I'm just looking to cut back on drone since I do a lot of highway driving. With the OBX, over 75, things aren't too noisy because of the rice-rocket sound, but the 4AT likes to fall right into the loudest part of the RPM band at 65-70 MPH.
I also noticed the muffler on the eBay knockoff of the EvoII likes to rub on the rear bumper. Moreso now that I have my OBX, and they somehow conveniently forgot the hanger that holds the y-pipe up before the cat.
Wow.. This is actually a calm obx thread thus far.. And people are being pretty open minded. I agree, extreme conditions and many different circumstances can lead to this. I don't think it's a "get what you pay for" thread. Especially since some cattmans have. I'm not sayin cattmans are garbage, they are without a doubt the Best headers+aftermarket parts shop for our cars IMO. But they are also a good hit in your wallet. Just have a shop weld it shut like stated before. Hairline isn't bad.
I am thinking about actually cutting the fart can off my ebay catback and using the Z resonator as a muffler. I'd just run a single pipe out from it.
And on eBay, there are two different resonated test pipes that you can get for $30 shipped. One is 12.xx inches long and the other is 13.xx inches long. They are identical listings, just the length is 1 inch different on the two.
What muffler did you get?
And on eBay, there are two different resonated test pipes that you can get for $30 shipped. One is 12.xx inches long and the other is 13.xx inches long. They are identical listings, just the length is 1 inch different on the two.
What muffler did you get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...item4149c7de10
Don't run a single pipe. It'll look like garbage. Get that res put on. And for looks buy this muffler. It looks really good imo and 40 bucks isn't bad at all. I can't find the EXACT link I got cause it was 40 bucks, but prices vary. Same seller..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...item4149c7de10
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...item4149c7de10
I think there are many cracked OBX out there...Especially some that had to be installed under tension in order to fit! I've worked with T304 SS, Magnesium, Titanium, moly-b, all types of aluminum, etc.... With the combination of heat, tension, and vibration, misfitted parts always crack...unclejoe you can have the cracks stop drilled, then rewelded or buy another set for $350....As far as Cattman's Headers cracking that'll be the first time I've heard of that...I've search without any luck in finding those threads...can someone present those please?
ive never seen a thread, just first hand experience from people who have them. generally people dont post about it because its like having to replace your brake pads, new clutch, etc... maintenance items. Ive long accepted that nearly all aftermarket parts are less reliable than stock parts
ive never seen a thread, just first hand experience from people who have them. generally people dont post about it because its like having to replace your brake pads, new clutch, etc... maintenance items. Ive long accepted that nearly all aftermarket parts are less reliable than stock parts
!!!!
CMax, what do you mean stop drilled?
I think I am just going to get it re welded. At least it is on the front header so I can easily take it off.
And how does that dual tip eBay muffler sound?
I think that muffler + 350z resonator will have a nice tone.
I think I am just going to get it re welded. At least it is on the front header so I can easily take it off.
And how does that dual tip eBay muffler sound?
I think that muffler + 350z resonator will have a nice tone.
T-304 just doesn't like to hold welds very well. Especially under extreme conditions. If you look at OBX's headers, they don't put very strong welds in place, anyway...
I don't have a problem with the headers. I just hate that mine are ticking somewhere because of a crack.
I don't have a problem with the headers. I just hate that mine are ticking somewhere because of a crack.
When I had the OBX headers I had a small hairline crack in the exact same spot...I mean exact same spot, so I guess this is probably a common problem with these...
SCLPunk267 Did you ever fix that crack on the front?
SCLPunk267 Did you ever fix that crack on the front?
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The only reason I would guess this is more common on OBX than other brands is because of fitment issues... the headers not quite lining up with the Y-pipe and such probably causes a good deal of constant stress when you force everything together, then heating up and cooling over and over and eventually it cracks.
What he meant by stop drill is that you want to drill a hole at each end of the crack so that it cannot continue to crack down that line. After drilling, you would weld it up as usual.
Make sure the shop you go to is using SS filler. The 309 SS rod is generally considered to be the most durable for welding 304 stainless.
What he meant by stop drill is that you want to drill a hole at each end of the crack so that it cannot continue to crack down that line. After drilling, you would weld it up as usual.
Make sure the shop you go to is using SS filler. The 309 SS rod is generally considered to be the most durable for welding 304 stainless.
My buddy patched it up free of charge. He put a nice, heavy weld on the crack so it shouldn't happen again.When did you get a 240? It looks good. All the first gens around here are pretty ratty.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; Apr 7, 2010 at 07:47 AM.
lol, i hate exhaust ticks. from the time that you develop one to when you have fixed it cant be short enough. that stuff is emabarassing
I picked up the 240 a couple of weeks ago...it's pretty nice I guess, it's an SR20 bolt-on car...
I just haven't had a chance to pull the exhaust and check all the welds/gaskets. Hopefully in the next week or so I'll have it fixed.
I just like the fact that it's RWD.
I'd like to see a VQ from a Z dropped into a 240. If it's possible. I'm sure it is. But at any rate, it'd be a pretty cool NA setup IMO.
Unklejoe you can probably stop drill it with a #10 drill bit...We usually stop drilled turbine components with various size drill bits, usually depending on material thickness....but a #10 should work well and for bigger crack we usually used .250" drill bits....GL, sorry to hear that believe it or not!!!! But that should stop the crack from spreading/growing!!!
Unklejoe you can probably stop drill it with a #10 drill bit...We usually stop drilled turbine components with various size drill bits, usually depending on material thickness....but a #10 should work well and for bigger crack we usually used .250" drill bits....GL, sorry to hear that believe it or not!!!! But that should stop the crack from spreading/growing!!!
this one's bad@$$...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLKnW...eature=related
Same 240z on roadway...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6RsT...eature=related
Holy V8 Batman!
VH45 in a 240
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eGmN...eature=related
Another Holy ****!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psBHCZEL-o4&feature=fvw
VH45 in a 240
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eGmN...eature=related
Another Holy ****!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psBHCZEL-o4&feature=fvw