I recently changed my MAF in a 2003 Auto for a 01 and swapped the resistor. After doing so, I performed the ECU reset and idle relearn via the gas pedel trick. I also removed the battery and left it for over an hour. After all of this, the car is driving weird, it is vibrating/shaking and accelerating very poor. 1st gear drives okay, 2nd gear drives the worst with the most bucking, 3rd is bit shaky, and 4th is just boring with bad acceleration. The bucking starts in 2nd gear at about 2000rpm. I don't have a CEL on, but one sometimes comes and goes but that is a Coolant Temp Sensor. Any solutions? Do I need a to do the ECM Reprogramming that they recommend?

Posted a vid of the issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMWzqT0jWA4

 

Weird. Was that your gas light on? Maybe you sucked some sludge up from the bottom of the tank? Fuel filter maybe. That sucks man, good luck.

 

Just replaced mine last week, and no problems....I didn't even do any of that IAVL/reset/unplug, just PnP.

on the fuel level deal.

 

OP, was it running the same before the MAF install?

 

Before the MAF it was running weird like loss of power at 2k and above. Almost the same, I'm going to put my old one back in and see if that makes a difference. Do you need to have the thermistat resistor in place for it to work?

Also, I was running low on gas at the time the video was made. I have driven over 400 miles since changing the MAF.

My whole dash and car vibrates nasty when accelerating if that helps. Doesn't seem like a maf problem which is when u just hit a wall.

 

Motor mounts cracked?

 

are you talking about the whole metal peice or just the rubber part? When i start the car, it bucks when it fires up (it's been like that since i bought it at 93k miles and now 108k). You could be right, but the would that ruin performance?

 

How is it idling?

 

it's idling fine...no problems

 

You would have noticed the vibration of cracked motor mounts sooner.

 

Bump, still not fixed so i'm seeing if anyone has any other input on the issue.

 

if it idles great but does not go over 1800 rpm is that the maf

 

i replaced map and still no change

 

I actually have an even weirder variation of this problem after running sea foam thru the car. Engine wont rev past 1800 rpm unless I disconnect the TPS (which is new x 2); then it idles high (1100 rpm in neutral; 1800 in gear) but runs normally. I've changed the knock sensor, reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery, and cleaned the IACV & MAF sensor to no avail. Any ideas? Thx :-)

 

This guys has spammed two other threads with his problem.

 

in your vid you have a CEL light on the right...near the end of the vid. You say it's the coolant temp sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the CTS is faulty, it will still send the wrong info to the ECU, thus upping the amount of fuel passed through the injectors to compensate for a cold engine. the CTS is not just used for the dash guage, it is part of the air/fuel ratio settings and guidelines. In our cars a fautly CTS can lead to hi HC in a SMOG check, and kill a precat because of the gasoline not being completely fired and overloading the precats.