does any one know hot to put a manual switch to lock the torque converter ??

 

A33 or A33B?



Any reason why you would want to do this? I think I might have an , but first tell me why.

 

Wish we had a switch pitch torque converter like Buick and Olds had for a while. Flip of a switch and you'd have 1400 to over 3000 rpms stall speed depending on which automatic you had.

 

you get better gas miles and car runs at lower rpms and transmission runs cooler so the transmission last longer and u can push start the car like a manual car and on the track u dont get the 10% slip so u get more power

 

What year is your car ...



What's wrong with it's control now? Why would you want to push start an auto?

01 I assume.

Anyhow, for the A33B, it runs off of tranny coolant temp. So, make it see the voltage it wants, and you might have you're looking for.

I'd grab an FSM and see if there are any other 'interlocks'/events that need to occur for it to lockup and go from there.

 

A really good aftermarket TC these days will act like a low stall daily driver TC at low throttle and flash high/keep RPMs higher after shifts when you get in the gas. It's still strange to me that a good TC isn't considered one of the first/best mods to do on an auto on this forum.

I have no on-topic input, sorry OP.

 

Install.



We're a bunch of lazy ******.

 

Install is 3 hours...... Headers are 6

 

Really? srsly? !

Huh, that's extraordinary, I didn't know headers were available for our cars!!!!one111



maybe I just don't feel like getting my garage full of tranny fluid. 3h install eh? On a transaxle, 5th gen? Hmmmm

 

I'd think it's more of a fear of fking something up than difficulty that keeps people from doing it.

 

Nah, I've sliced through ECU/TCM harnesses through carelessness, lost parts to fuel rails, misplaced motor mounts, wired SAFC's backwards (mirror image of ECU pinout). So, I'm past that phase.

 

I never implied that you suffered from that same fear. I said that was my guess for why nobody is willing to swap their torque converter.

Every time I ride in KingJames' car, I say "this sucks, you need a TC"... Just watching it shift from 6700 rpms down to sub 4500 rpms in the next gear makes me cringe knowing 800-1,000 dollars on a good TC would probably make that 5000+ rpms and his car much faster. That's not even mentioning the benefits for launching.

Oh well, it's really not my concern! haha.

 

Our FD & related ratios are/will still be the same, so, not sure if that would benefit form anything rather than changing the FD or getting tiny tires/wheels re: higher RPM in the following gear.

 

Do you mean something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories

Sorry but I dunno how to post the link besides "copy & paste"

I dont know if this is total garbage or not. I have no clue what it'd do for everyday driveability either. Although, assuming it's not crap, if you installed this with the transgo kit and some sort of transbrake, youd have a pretty serious tranny...but, I never heard of anyone with FWD and a transbrake. Do they even exist?

 

Don't know if I would trust eBay for something as major as a torque converter though...

 

Well, my friend, you don't understand one of the finer qualities of a torque converter. It's generally called "shift extension" and most torque converters will list what RPM it will hold you at when you shift to the next gear.

Basically, if you get a 3000 stall converter, your initial launch from a stop should be around your converters rated stall speed HOWEVER while shifting gears, your converter will "stall" higher to whatever the shift extension of your converter is.

For example, a stock 4L60 with a stock TC will shift down to around 4k rpms from redline when going into the next gear. Install a yank SS3800, and that will be 5000 rpms.

I hope you can see why that is a very, very good thing... especially for N/A cars to stay in the powerband with big gear spacing on a 4-speed automatic.

 

I wouldn't touch it... torque converters are one of those things that (99% of the time) you REALLY get what you pay for. A cheap 2800 stall converter is going to be FAR less streetable than a nice 2800 stall converter.

 

You really think I don't grasp that

 

Hehe. Kinda figured this much. I wouldn't even know where to start to look for a torgue converter for my AT. I dunno if I'll even go THIS far though b/c the mod's I want to do probably wont warrant that kinda of tranny work. But then again, never say never...

 

1. Most automatics have an open front differential and can't hook up with the stock converter.

2. Stall speed isn't bad as it is, 2.550 to 3,050 according to the FSM (page AT-63)

3. You really need more cam and red-line (like 7000 rpm) to fully realize the potential of a higher stall torque converter.

 

Was just a summary of my point as a closing statement.

Would you advise someone with headers to take them off because they can't hook, or would you advise them to get better tires? Also remember a TC isn't just about launching at a higher RPM, shift extension will make it faster at higher speed when traction isn't a problem also.

I do not agree. If a stock auto LS1 car (that is a bottom end monster) can see .5 seconds improvement from being deeper in the powerband all the way down the track, then our midrange/topend happy 3.5s would see at LEAST as much benefit if not more.

Just look at a stock auto 3.5 dyno and pick a spot at around 4200-4500 rpms and note the horsepower there. Then pick another spot 400-500 rpms higher than the one you just picked. Is there more horsepower at that RPM? I'll bet you there is...

Now if there IS an improvement in power there, then it should be obvious that a torque converter with a 400-500 rpm higher shift extension will help even on a stock car.

Of course more RPM would make the improvement more noticeable, but it wouldn't be required to see gains.

Show me a video of your TC flashing to 2500-3000 rpms. Seems that it's much closer to the 1800-2000 mark in practice.

 

Headers generally don't make power right off the bottom end, torque converters with a higher stall do. However, full throttle at lower rpms once rolling would improve, with 4.11s and a 4000 stall in my Chevelle, I could smoke most cars from a 30 roll leaving the shifter in 3rd gear (manual valve body).

Again, assuming you can put the power down. You'd probably have to run slicks at the strip to take full advantage. I have to pedal it out of the hole as it is with the stock converter.

Roll on acceleration would definitely improve in my car with a 4000 stall since I have the block plate, but often those type of stall speeds make a car feel sluggish when just putting around town.

I've seen the converter flash to around 2500-2600 rpms on launch in my car. Same when tipping into the throttle when the converter isn't locked up.

As someone who has had high stall converters in a couple cars, I am fully aware of what they can do. Going from a 2800 rpm to a 4000 rpm stall in my Chevelle was a night and day difference since the cam I had (Comp Cams 292 Magnum) didn't make squat for power under 3500 rpms. I'm just not convinced a higher stall converter (which won't be cheap) is worth it on a mostly stock 5.5 gen. Now, if I had headers, SSIM, raised rev limiter, etc, I'd be all over a 3800-4000 stall converter. And slicks.

 

I think it's cute how you ignore my points about shift extension and keep talking about launching as the reason why a TC wouldn't help.

You also keep assuming that I am saying the gains would all be had off the starting line. Yes, if you have traction, you would see great benefits on the launch, but I'm also talking about gains on every gear shift... not just at the launch.

Either way, I'll let it go. You're right, i'm wrong... etc. I'd rather you auto guys not start taking shots at the 6-speed records, anyway.

 

how to wire a manual switch for torque converter clutch lock up solenoid

 

Was the advice given not good enough? I guess having to look in the FSM is too much work

 

i didnt find out how to wire it i tride looking at the fsm

 

The advice given was to look at the FSM to see what preconditions must be met for lockup, then find a way to emulate those conditions in a way that you could use a switch to do it.

It will very likely not be as simple as just adding an extra power/ground wire attached to a switch.

 

Did you read what I wrote? Seeing as you focused only on off the line performance, I'd say you didn't.

Not even sure what you mean by "shift extension" because I noticed no change in how firmly or what rpm my Chevelle or Cutlass shifted at after putting in a higher stall converter. The block plate already moved my shift points from 6100 rpm to 6500 rpm as it is and only drops to 4000 rpms or so, which would be beyond the ability of a streetable high stall converter to help. If I was dropping to 3000 rpms on shifts, then more stall would help.

My main point is that a higher stall converter isn't going to be a very cost effective mod on a mostly stock car with the stock rev limiter. Intake spacers would fatten up the low to midrange power for a lot less.

 

You didn't read much of my post did you? Maybe torque converters have changed since your heyday, but if you don't know what shift extension is, then you really don't know much about this subject. Try reading up on or reading the post where I explained it.

http://www.dayton-fbody.com/forums/v...hp?f=17&t=1440

 

If by shift extension you mean that the rpms after the shift are lower than the stall of the converter (say 3500 rpms) with a 4000 stall, then you would see gains after the shift since the converter would keep the engine speed at 4000 rpms. Yeah, I know about that, just never heard an actual term for it. Shifting at 6800 rpms in my Chevelle, that really wasn't as issue since I was still above the stall speed at full throttle shifts into the next gear. I did notice it with my Cutlass (350 then a 455 swap) because I only shifted at 5200 rpms. However, the biggest gains from that converter was off the line due to crappy 2.41 gears (found a rear end with 2.73s, not great but an improvement). Couldn't turn a tire off the line to save my life on dry pavement, just a mild 2200 rpm stall had it smoking the right rear off the line.

If you look at this video (I know, it came out a little dark), you can see a full throttle 2-3 shifts puts me at 4300 rpms in 3rd gear so shift extension or not, I don't see how a streetable 3200-3500 rpm stall would help the power after the shift. If I had gotten on it at 40 instead of 45, a looser converter would have helped because I would have been below 4000 rpms.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh00y41HwxY

 

Man you're going to be sticking your foot in your mouth when you figure out what I'm talking about. The STALL RPM has absolutely nothing to do with shift extension.

Did you not read what I just posted? Try googling it as well...

Here's another thread where they talk about it.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/archive.../t-211800.html

Here we go let me add this paragraph to the thread for a 3rd time. Maybe it'll be the charm.

"Basically, if you get a 3000 stall converter, your initial launch from a stop should be around your converters rated stall speed HOWEVER while shifting gears, your converter will "stall" higher to whatever the shift extension of your converter is. "

And another link

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/automa...nk-st3800.html

 

I read the links and I haven't seen that much slip after the shift (1000 rpms past stall/flash) with a higher stall converter, not even using a 10" 4000 stall. Is there something different about lock up converters that allow this? None of the converters I've used were lock-up type converters (B&M and Hughes).

Based on that link, I'd need to run about 3800 rpm stall to get a "shift extension" benefit (to be at 4800-5000 after the shift instead of 4300 rpms now. Does that sound right? This Titan has a 3600 rpm stall and after the shift it is at around 5000 rpms.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/new-...ter_726080.htm

There aren't a lot of aftermarket converters, the least expensive ones are in the $500-600 range and they need yours to modify. New converters are in the $1000 range, the Level 10 is $1298!

http://www.levelten.com/SearchResult...6&Redirected=Y

 

Well the extension can be different without the stall necessarily being much higher, as far as I understand. I believe most/all of those converters are locking converters, but I'm not 100% on that.

I honestly think it would be worth the 1g if you can pick up several .10s because of it, which I don't doubt you would just because of the mechanics of torque multiplication and shifting to a higher RPM.

If I had an auto maxima, I would probably go for something around a 3800-4000 stall so it retains good streetability while being able to launch IN the powerband and stay in the powerband after shifts. I have been highly tempted to auto swap since my 6-speed broke... lol

 

Honestly, this is the first time I've heard the term "shift extension" because whatever the stall was in the converters I've had, that's where you were on the upshift assuming you would have dropped below the stall speed. Plus, the added stall speed made my car feel sluggish at low throttle openings when I went to the 4000 stall.

The major improvement I noticed was off the line and when punching it at low rpms. I'd be at 1600 rpms (and the cam would be loping) at 30 mph in my Chevelle in 3rd (top) gear, punch it and be at 4000 rpms instantly and flat walk away from 5.0s, IROCs and C4 Corvettes. Made my car a pain to hook though, even with posi. With the Cutlass and a more sedate motor, all the noticeable gains were off the line and stall speed went from 2200 rpm to 2500 rpm when I swapped the 350 for a 455.

With nearly 175,000 miles on the original transmission, any torque converter upgrade will wait until (and if) I need to replace the transmission. If and when that time comes, I'll make sure whatever transmission I pick up has the converter as well and if my car is in good enough condition to keep a few more years, then I'll probably send the converter out to be modified.

 

Sounds cool, you'd be one of the very few Maxima owners who actually got one!

Maybe it's because I'm used to LS1tech/etc, but that's always one of the first major mods to do, especially on a N/A car.

 

LS1s have a lot tighter converters than we do, aren't they around 1800 rpm stock stall?

I did them early on with my Chevelle and Cutlass too, along with shift kits. Much easier to do in a front engine/rear wheel drive vehicle than FWD. I could do a converter swap in 90 minutes or so working by myself. Plus they were a lot cheaper! Of course, a cam change meant a converter change too.

I'd be looking at a grand for a rebuilt converter with a higher stall plus installation and a transmission cooler, that's a lot to spend on a car with a book value of maybe $6000. Same reason I am hesitant to get headers or a 3" exhaust and have to put a different muffler on it because it is too loud.

On the other hand, my car is paid for and so far has been pretty reliable especially given the miles I've put on it (nearly 61,000 since November 2007) and that it is a June '01 build. Just don't know right now if I will keep my car another year or another 5.

 

Every auto Maxima i've ridden in thus far stalled around 1800-2000 rpms. I don't know why it's so much different for you.

 

He and I are both going off of what the FSM states.

I have some old logs that will show the exact RPM I'm in when shifting into 2nd gear from 7100 in 1st (2nd to 3rd doesn't matter as it is very near 5k, and we know that's a good thing).

I'll have to consult with Jime on this one, since I am now resurrecting my Maxima.

 

So say for example, you shift at 6200RPM, and after the shift, the RPM's drop to 4000RPM.

If you have a 3000RPM stall torque converter, can't you add 3000RPM to 4000RPM, and that would be the speed that the engine can rev before the converter "stalls"?

Because the 3000RPM stall rating is assuming that the input shaft of the transmission is at 0 RPM, the 3000 is simply the maximum difference in speed between the inputshaft of the torque converter to the output shaft of the torque converter. By this logic, you can add 3000 to the speed of the inputshaft of the transmission and this would be your shift extension, no?

This is all in theory, as the shift extension speed will be lower because when you are stopped, all of the force is going into making the torque converter stall, but while you are at the top of the gear, some of the force is going into accelerating the car, so the shift extension would be a little lower.

Is this correct?

 

Sorry it's not that simplistic. There's more going on with the shift extension than just the stall speed, otherwise a SS3800 yank T/C wouldn't say it's shift extension was 4900-5000 (from 4000 stock) even though it stalls at 3800.

Instead of theorizing, you could just... you know... call yank and ask them. I'm sure they have a lot more than theory to explain it to you with.