FRONT STABILIZER LINK
FRONT STABILIZER LINK
I need to change both front stabilizer links, upon my search i came across a few different brands and I want to kno which brand is better or if there is a difference at all.
I'm assuming you meant you "haven't done this before" but you're dying to try.... It is pretty straight forward unless you find a stubborn bolt. I had to cut one of the bolts with a reciprocating saw when I replaced my links with Moogs.
Your assumption was right thanx. I"ll be getting Moogs soon thanx for the replies.
Remove and replace. Extremely simple in concept unless a bolt gets stuck and you have to cut something off. Heat can be your friend to loosen a stubborn bolt. Just remember to let everything cool before you go putting everything back in.
I would stay away from Moog endlinks. The greased ones have very less clearance to the control arm, once the links get old they hit the control arm when you go over speedbumps. Go with OEM, they don't have the greased fittings and have quite a lot of clearance from the control arm... My thoughts since I have them on my car.!!!
/threadI would stay away from Moog endlinks. The greased ones have very less clearance to the control arm, once the links get old they hit the control arm when you go over speedbumps. Go with OEM, they don't have the greased fittings and have quite a lot of clearance from the control arm... My thoughts since I have them on my car.!!!
Replaced those with Moog and its been quiet for 2 years now. I would say stay away from OEM!
just did this...
your going to need a few choice tools to make this work...one being a long socket 14mm,..a open ended wrench,.. i think that was 15mm,..and i ended up needing a grinder wheel because after i got the bolt 3/4 of the way off it wouldnt come off any more.. and i needed to zip cut it off...
I would reccommend buing new sway bar bushings as well,.. they are not only cheap but take about 5 mins for install while your in there,.. make sure u know if you have 22 or 23mm bushings..
I would also buy moog parts,..... and both of them from here,.. can get all 4 things for like 60 shipped...
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
your going to need a few choice tools to make this work...one being a long socket 14mm,..a open ended wrench,.. i think that was 15mm,..and i ended up needing a grinder wheel because after i got the bolt 3/4 of the way off it wouldnt come off any more.. and i needed to zip cut it off...
I would reccommend buing new sway bar bushings as well,.. they are not only cheap but take about 5 mins for install while your in there,.. make sure u know if you have 22 or 23mm bushings..
I would also buy moog parts,..... and both of them from here,.. can get all 4 things for like 60 shipped...
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
just did this...
your going to need a few choice tools to make this work...one being a long socket 14mm,..a open ended wrench,.. i think that was 15mm,..and i ended up needing a grinder wheel because after i got the bolt 3/4 of the way off it wouldnt come off any more.. and i needed to zip cut it off...
I would reccommend buing new sway bar bushings as well,.. they are not only cheap but take about 5 mins for install while your in there,.. make sure u know if you have 22 or 23mm bushings..
I would also buy moog parts,..... and both of them from here,.. can get all 4 things for like 60 shipped...
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
your going to need a few choice tools to make this work...one being a long socket 14mm,..a open ended wrench,.. i think that was 15mm,..and i ended up needing a grinder wheel because after i got the bolt 3/4 of the way off it wouldnt come off any more.. and i needed to zip cut it off...
I would reccommend buing new sway bar bushings as well,.. they are not only cheap but take about 5 mins for install while your in there,.. make sure u know if you have 22 or 23mm bushings..
I would also buy moog parts,..... and both of them from here,.. can get all 4 things for like 60 shipped...
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
EDIT:I did some searching and found a thread saying se's are 23mm. Im still going to call the dealer anyway.
Last edited by cmd26; Apr 26, 2010 at 06:30 PM.
If you get the MOOG's, please inject some additional grease. Mine were shipped with what I would consider an insufficient grease quantity.
Also, it is easier to install the grease fittings prior to installation.
Also, it is easier to install the grease fittings prior to installation.
The MOOG end-links are pretty inexpensive. I didn't do the install myself, but my mechanic corroborated the purchase, and was impressed when he saw them. Yes, they have grease fittings, and yes, I've read where people have commented on fitment. Mine went in OK.
This is another picture of the OEM compared to the MOOG, side-by-side:

If you're "there", do the FSB frame bushings as well. It's a very inexpensive mod, and will make your steering feel new again.
This is another picture of the OEM compared to the MOOG, side-by-side:

If you're "there", do the FSB frame bushings as well. It's a very inexpensive mod, and will make your steering feel new again.
I used TRW. Same beefy design as Moog, except no grease fittings. They do however, have a life time warranty.
I was going to order new Energy sway bar bushings, but shipping is as much as the parts. I hate that.
I was going to order new Energy sway bar bushings, but shipping is as much as the parts. I hate that.
How much were you quoted for the bushings and where? I just saw Energy Suspension bushing for my car at Autozone (part # 75124G) for 20 bucks +tx.
NOW....are the 23mm for the 2002-2003 maxima's and the 22mm for the 2000-2001 maximas?
or is it the 22mm are for the SE versions throughought the 5th gens and the 22mm goes on the GXE and GLE models?
or is it the 22mm are for the SE versions throughought the 5th gens and the 22mm goes on the GXE and GLE models?
The ES bushings come with a tube of grease. Note picture:
You don't need any; they come already packed with grease (at least that is the case with Moogs). All you need to do is screw in the grease fittings before installing the links on your car. If you ever need to re-grease them, then standard lithium grease will do.
Looks like Pac Man is eating the Sharpie. I doubt that mine are worn out, it's just that I'd like to replace them to bring things back to like new condition, as I've replaced the end links, struts, mounts and bearings. But, I just can't swallow $20 shipping for $20 worth of parts. I'm on the hunt for a supplier up here. I'm even considering Moog non polyurethane.
Anyone have an opinion on the Moogs?
Anyone have an opinion on the Moogs?
Parts ordered cant wait for them to arrive, left turns are starting to feel very unsafe almost like the wheel is coming off. Is this a situation where I should replace both sides, Im only having problems on the passenger side.
Last edited by cmd26; Apr 28, 2010 at 09:45 PM.
You might want to check ball joints, tie rods, struts/strut mounts, etc.
Looks like Pac Man is eating the Sharpie. I doubt that mine are worn out, it's just that I'd like to replace them to bring things back to like new condition, as I've replaced the end links, struts, mounts and bearings. But, I just can't swallow $20 shipping for $20 worth of parts. I'm on the hunt for a supplier up here. I'm even considering Moog non polyurethane.
Anyone have an opinion on the Moogs?
Anyone have an opinion on the Moogs?
There was a thread a few months ago discussing the bushing design, and whether they needed to slip down the length of the FSB, or if they were split. They're obviously split; hence the sharpie. And the sharpie gives a point of reference for size.
Don't know which affected my steering feedback the most: the bushings, or the new end-links. But like I said, Spock, my steering feels like new again. Very solid.
You may want to check other suspension pieces (i.e. wheel bearings, lower control arm, strut, etc...).
As I posted before, you should add grease to the endlinks as the MOOG's are not shipped fully packed. So far I've noticed this issue across a few different MOOG balljoints (in a few applications). Also, use a chassis lubricant and not a lithium grease (I don't think they can withstand high pressure use).
EDIT: I'm not too sure about the lithium based grease not being appropriate for this use.
Last edited by Nelsito65; Apr 29, 2010 at 08:15 AM.
So I make it a point to load up joints which are supplied with grease fittings to ensure adequate lubrication.
... I didn't mean it that way, man. I'm glad you posted it the first time around. I took advantage of it to illustrate the condition of the Moogs, from the manufacturer, in terms of the need to add grease to them or not.
Mine looked similar to yours, but only had a small 'dollop' of grease in one spot for each joint (total of four), which I deemed insufficient. The rubber boots were quite stiff and appear full even though there was a large void underneath; was revealed by peeling back the boot. I noticed this same issue on several Chrysler replacement parts (endlinks, LCAs, etc...).
So I make it a point to load up joints which are supplied with grease fittings to ensure adequate lubrication.
So I make it a point to load up joints which are supplied with grease fittings to ensure adequate lubrication.







However, the MOOG end-links come pre-packed with grease.