5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

FRONT STABILIZER LINK

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:02 AM
  #1  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
FRONT STABILIZER LINK

I need to change both front stabilizer links, upon my search i came across a few different brands and I want to kno which brand is better or if there is a difference at all.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:06 AM
  #2  
sal210's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 81
From: Rhode Island
moog, and get the one with grease fittings. thery're beefier and feel alot better than stock. thats just my opinion tho
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #3  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
^ I'll keep that in mind
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #4  
auveeb's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 242
From: Queens, NYC
Moog, by far.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #5  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Ive done this before but Im dying to try cuz it looks straight forward, anyone have any advice for me?
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:41 AM
  #6  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by cmd26
Ive done this before but Im dying to try cuz it looks straight forward, anyone have any advice for me?
I'm assuming you meant you "haven't done this before" but you're dying to try.... It is pretty straight forward unless you find a stubborn bolt. I had to cut one of the bolts with a reciprocating saw when I replaced my links with Moogs.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #7  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
I'm assuming you meant you "haven't done this before" but you're dying to try.... It is pretty straight forward unless you find a stubborn bolt. I had to cut one of the bolts with a reciprocating saw when I replaced my links with Moogs.

Your assumption was right thanx. I"ll be getting Moogs soon thanx for the replies.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #8  
merovi's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 0
From: Rochester NY
Remove and replace. Extremely simple in concept unless a bolt gets stuck and you have to cut something off. Heat can be your friend to loosen a stubborn bolt. Just remember to let everything cool before you go putting everything back in.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #9  
Love_00_Max's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,136
From: Pleasanton,CA
Originally Posted by cmd26
Your assumption was right thanx. I"ll be getting Moogs soon thanx for the replies.
I would stay away from Moog endlinks. The greased ones have very less clearance to the control arm, once the links get old they hit the control arm when you go over speedbumps. Go with OEM, they don't have the greased fittings and have quite a lot of clearance from the control arm... My thoughts since I have them on my car.!!!
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #10  
vball_max's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,799
From: North Shore, MA
Originally Posted by sal210
moog, and get the one with grease fittings. thery're beefier and feel alot better than stock. thats just my opinion tho
Originally Posted by auveeb
Moog, by far.
/thread


Originally Posted by Love_00_Max
I would stay away from Moog endlinks. The greased ones have very less clearance to the control arm, once the links get old they hit the control arm when you go over speedbumps. Go with OEM, they don't have the greased fittings and have quite a lot of clearance from the control arm... My thoughts since I have them on my car.!!!
I replaced mine with OEM and 3 months later, the knocking came back.

Replaced those with Moog and its been quiet for 2 years now. I would say stay away from OEM!
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 05:56 PM
  #11  
mist max2000's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,071
just did this...

your going to need a few choice tools to make this work...one being a long socket 14mm,..a open ended wrench,.. i think that was 15mm,..and i ended up needing a grinder wheel because after i got the bolt 3/4 of the way off it wouldnt come off any more.. and i needed to zip cut it off...

I would reccommend buing new sway bar bushings as well,.. they are not only cheap but take about 5 mins for install while your in there,.. make sure u know if you have 22 or 23mm bushings..

I would also buy moog parts,..... and both of them from here,.. can get all 4 things for like 60 shipped...
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 06:21 PM
  #12  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Originally Posted by mist max2000
just did this...

your going to need a few choice tools to make this work...one being a long socket 14mm,..a open ended wrench,.. i think that was 15mm,..and i ended up needing a grinder wheel because after i got the bolt 3/4 of the way off it wouldnt come off any more.. and i needed to zip cut it off...

I would reccommend buing new sway bar bushings as well,.. they are not only cheap but take about 5 mins for install while your in there,.. make sure u know if you have 22 or 23mm bushings..

I would also buy moog parts,..... and both of them from here,.. can get all 4 things for like 60 shipped...
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Thats going to very helpful but how do i determine if my byshings are 22mm or 23mm?
EDIT:I did some searching and found a thread saying se's are 23mm. Im still going to call the dealer anyway.

Last edited by cmd26; Apr 26, 2010 at 06:30 PM.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #13  
KT3MaxSE's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 132
From: WI
SE's have 23mm front sway bar--23mm bushings needed
GXE's & GLE's have 22mm front sway bar--22mm bushings

Side note:Progress rear sway bar for 5-5.5 gen is 22mm
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 04:26 AM
  #14  
mist max2000's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,071
Originally Posted by KT3MaxSE
SE's have 23mm front sway bar--23mm bushings needed
GXE's & GLE's have 22mm front sway bar--22mm bushings

Side note:Progress rear sway bar for 5-5.5 gen is 22mm
this is correct...
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #15  
HDB Audio's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 98
From: Quebec
You really have to go with MOOG. I just change mine yesterday and here's some pics (take with my blackberry so sorry for the bad quality). You'll see the OEM and the MOOG.







Old Apr 27, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #16  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Wow the difference is in credible thanx. Was it difficult at all? As soon as i get all the needed material Im starting that day.
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #17  
2slow's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 575
From: Chicagoland
If you get the MOOG's, please inject some additional grease. Mine were shipped with what I would consider an insufficient grease quantity.

Also, it is easier to install the grease fittings prior to installation.
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 11:33 AM
  #18  
Rochester's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,296
From: Rochester, NY
The MOOG end-links are pretty inexpensive. I didn't do the install myself, but my mechanic corroborated the purchase, and was impressed when he saw them. Yes, they have grease fittings, and yes, I've read where people have commented on fitment. Mine went in OK.

This is another picture of the OEM compared to the MOOG, side-by-side:



If you're "there", do the FSB frame bushings as well. It's a very inexpensive mod, and will make your steering feel new again.

Old Apr 27, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #19  
spock's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 968
From: north of Toronto, Canada
I used TRW. Same beefy design as Moog, except no grease fittings. They do however, have a life time warranty.
I was going to order new Energy sway bar bushings, but shipping is as much as the parts. I hate that.
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #20  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by spock
I used TRW. Same beefy design as Moog, except no grease fittings. They do however, have a life time warranty.
I was going to order new Energy sway bar bushings, but shipping is as much as the parts. I hate that.
How much were you quoted for the bushings and where? I just saw Energy Suspension bushing for my car at Autozone (part # 75124G) for 20 bucks +tx.
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 02:38 PM
  #21  
spock's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 968
From: north of Toronto, Canada
$20 from energy suspension. I wasn't aware that they were sold elseware. Note that I do live in Canada.
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #22  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by spock
$20 from energy suspension. I wasn't aware that they were sold elseware. Note that I do live in Canada.
Amazon also has them, althought I couldn't find the 22 mm, but only the 23 mm (part# 75125G) for $16 and some change.
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 07:34 PM
  #23  
TallTom's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,838
From: NYC
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
Amazon also has them, althought I couldn't find the 22 mm, but only the 23 mm (part# 75125G) for $16 and some change.
$25 shipped for your 22mm.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.5124
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 08:35 PM
  #24  
hi-tek22's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 947
From: Baltimore, MD
NOW....are the 23mm for the 2002-2003 maxima's and the 22mm for the 2000-2001 maximas?

or is it the 22mm are for the SE versions throughought the 5th gens and the 22mm goes on the GXE and GLE models?
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 05:23 AM
  #25  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Wut type of grease do I use?
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 05:28 AM
  #26  
Rochester's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,296
From: Rochester, NY
Originally Posted by hi-tek22
NOW....are the 23mm for the 2002-2003 maxima's and the 22mm for the 2000-2001 maximas?

or is it the 22mm are for the SE versions throughought the 5th gens and the 22mm goes on the GXE and GLE models?
23mm for the 5th Gen SE. 22mm for 5th gen GXE and GLE.

Originally Posted by cmd26
Wut type of grease do I use?
The ES bushings come with a tube of grease. Note picture:

Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #27  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Originally Posted by Rochester
23mm for the 5th Gen SE. 22mm for 5th gen GXE and GLE.



The ES bushings come with a tube of grease. Note picture:

Yes this pic refers to the sway bar bushings i was talking about the stablilzer links, wut grease do I use for those or is it the same.
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:49 AM
  #28  
Rochester's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,296
From: Rochester, NY
Originally Posted by cmd26
Yes this pic refers to the sway bar bushings i was talking about the stablilzer links, wut grease do I use for those or is it the same.
I'm guessing a standard lithium-based grease. However, the MOOG end-links come pre-packed with grease.

Go to Auto Zone.
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:49 AM
  #29  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by cmd26
Yes this pic refers to the sway bar bushings i was talking about the stablilzer links, wut grease do I use for those or is it the same.
You don't need any; they come already packed with grease (at least that is the case with Moogs). All you need to do is screw in the grease fittings before installing the links on your car. If you ever need to re-grease them, then standard lithium grease will do.
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #30  
spock's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 968
From: north of Toronto, Canada
Looks like Pac Man is eating the Sharpie. I doubt that mine are worn out, it's just that I'd like to replace them to bring things back to like new condition, as I've replaced the end links, struts, mounts and bearings. But, I just can't swallow $20 shipping for $20 worth of parts. I'm on the hunt for a supplier up here. I'm even considering Moog non polyurethane.
Anyone have an opinion on the Moogs?
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #31  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Parts ordered cant wait for them to arrive, left turns are starting to feel very unsafe almost like the wheel is coming off. Is this a situation where I should replace both sides, Im only having problems on the passenger side.

Last edited by cmd26; Apr 28, 2010 at 09:45 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 05:03 AM
  #32  
vball_max's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,799
From: North Shore, MA
Originally Posted by cmd26
Parts ordered cant wait for them to arrive, left turns are starting to feel very unsafe almost like the wheel is coming off. Is this a situation where I should replace both sides, Im only having problems on the passenger side.
If if it feels like your wheel is coming off, its probably a lot more than the endlinks or swaybar bushings.....

You might want to check ball joints, tie rods, struts/strut mounts, etc.
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 05:29 AM
  #33  
Rochester's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,296
From: Rochester, NY
Originally Posted by spock
Looks like Pac Man is eating the Sharpie. I doubt that mine are worn out, it's just that I'd like to replace them to bring things back to like new condition, as I've replaced the end links, struts, mounts and bearings. But, I just can't swallow $20 shipping for $20 worth of parts. I'm on the hunt for a supplier up here. I'm even considering Moog non polyurethane.
Anyone have an opinion on the Moogs?
I really don't understand what's up with Canadian shipping. These ES bushings were $25 shipped to my door.

There was a thread a few months ago discussing the bushing design, and whether they needed to slip down the length of the FSB, or if they were split. They're obviously split; hence the sharpie. And the sharpie gives a point of reference for size.

Don't know which affected my steering feedback the most: the bushings, or the new end-links. But like I said, Spock, my steering feels like new again. Very solid.
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #34  
cmd26's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 651
From: deptford, nj
Originally Posted by kgallerie
If if it feels like your wheel is coming off, its probably a lot more than the endlinks or swaybar bushings.....

You might want to check ball joints, tie rods, struts/strut mounts, etc.
I was exaggerating bout my wheel falling off, but my handling is affected
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 06:56 AM
  #35  
2slow's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 575
From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
You don't need any; they come already packed with grease (at least that is the case with Moogs). All you need to do is screw in the grease fittings before installing the links on your car. If you ever need to re-grease them, then standard lithium grease will do.
As I posted before, you should add grease to the endlinks as the MOOG's are not shipped fully packed. So far I've noticed this issue across a few different MOOG balljoints (in a few applications). Also, use a chassis lubricant and not a lithium grease (I don't think they can withstand high pressure use).

Originally Posted by cmd26
I was exaggerating bout my wheel falling off, but my handling is affected
You may want to check other suspension pieces (i.e. wheel bearings, lower control arm, strut, etc...).
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #36  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by 2slow
As I posted before, you should add grease to the endlinks as the MOOG's are not shipped fully packed. So far I've noticed this issue across a few different MOOG balljoints (in a few applications). Also, use a chassis lubricant and not a lithium grease (I don't think they can withstand high pressure use).
The picture on post #18 shows one of my Moog endlinks as it was before installation. It looked and felt pretty packed to me. I didn't add any grease when I installed them and they still look the same.
EDIT: I'm not too sure about the lithium based grease not being appropriate for this use.

Last edited by Nelsito65; Apr 29, 2010 at 08:15 AM.
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 08:34 AM
  #37  
Rochester's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,296
From: Rochester, NY
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
The picture on post #18 shows one of my Moog endlinks as it was before installation...
Sorry, man. I knew I snagged that photo from someone months ago.

Here it is again, updated with proper credit. Refresh, if need be.

Old Apr 29, 2010 | 08:52 AM
  #38  
2slow's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 575
From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
The picture on post #18 shows one of my Moog endlinks as it was before installation. It looked and felt pretty packed to me. I didn't add any grease when I installed them and they still look the same.
Mine looked similar to yours, but only had a small 'dollop' of grease in one spot for each joint (total of four), which I deemed insufficient. The rubber boots were quite stiff and appear full even though there was a large void underneath; was revealed by peeling back the boot. I noticed this same issue on several Chrysler replacement parts (endlinks, LCAs, etc...).

So I make it a point to load up joints which are supplied with grease fittings to ensure adequate lubrication.
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #39  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by Rochester
Sorry, man. I knew I snagged that photo from someone months ago.

Here it is again, updated with proper credit. Refresh, if need be.
... I didn't mean it that way, man. I'm glad you posted it the first time around. I took advantage of it to illustrate the condition of the Moogs, from the manufacturer, in terms of the need to add grease to them or not.
Old Apr 29, 2010 | 09:03 AM
  #40  
Nelsito65's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 897
From: Brandon, FL
Originally Posted by 2slow
Mine looked similar to yours, but only had a small 'dollop' of grease in one spot for each joint (total of four), which I deemed insufficient. The rubber boots were quite stiff and appear full even though there was a large void underneath; was revealed by peeling back the boot. I noticed this same issue on several Chrysler replacement parts (endlinks, LCAs, etc...).

So I make it a point to load up joints which are supplied with grease fittings to ensure adequate lubrication.
Got it. In that case I can see your point is valid. I didn't go as far as peeling back the rubber boot; I just sqeezed around and they felt packed.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:57 AM.