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Front bearing issue

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Old May 10, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #1  
zheka's Avatar
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From: seattle area
Front bearing issue

My passenger side axle was making cranking noises when i turned my wheel to the left and accelerate at the same time. while I was Working on my axle I noticed my hub was wobbling inside the bearing, so i replaced that to. I had the new bearing and new hub pressed in by a professional machine shop. After i assembled everything and torqued the axle nut to 120 lbs i took it for a test drive around the block. I immediately noticed vibration under acceleration. so I jacked up the car and noticed the hub is wobbling again. turns out the bearing is bent again.

what could be the cause of the bent new bearing?

1. pressed in incorrectly
2. my lowering springs ( I have Tein S-techs, with stock struts)
3. bad cv axle (I bought it new from shucks, not rebuilt)
4. all of the above

btw i have a 2000 se with a manual transmission with 71k miles
Old May 11, 2010 | 04:25 AM
  #2  
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From: Florida
very possible from being lowered, the kid i bought mine off of had it lowered and killed the left side wheel bearing.


i removed and replaced the bearing myself ( work in a shop ) and the noise went away and had no problems since.


although i don't know if it is possible to press in the bearing incorrectly?
Old May 11, 2010 | 05:27 AM
  #3  
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The bearing and hub assembly were both new?

If you just replaced the bearing and not the hub assembly, the new bearing will fail. Especially if your old bearing was "wobbling" in your hub.

And the bearing rides inside the hub not the other way around like you stated, and yes they can be pressed in wrong/incorrectly.
Old May 11, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #4  
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I bought a new hub assembly along with the new bearing. my dad keeps saying its the lowering springs (he was against them from the beginning) but I don't think I can bend the bearings in a 1/2 mile from the lowering springs, I'm stumped, I really need your help guys
Old May 11, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by zheka
I bought a new hub assembly along with the new bearing. my dad keeps saying its the lowering springs (he was against them from the beginning) but I don't think I can bend the bearings in a 1/2 mile from the lowering springs, I'm stumped, I really need your help guys
how low are your lowering springs?


the kid before me had it slammed , cross member scraping, tires tucked up into the wheel well.



it's now on stock springs with a new wheel bearing
Old May 11, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #6  
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You are supposed to tighten the nut to 240 ft-lbs and since it is a lock nut you shouldnt' reuse it.
Old May 11, 2010 | 03:39 PM
  #7  
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From: worcester
i'd go with number one
Old May 12, 2010 | 01:15 AM
  #8  
zheka's Avatar
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Amave: it's a 2.25 inch drop, so maybe one finger in between the fender and wheel
Scottwax: do you have the write up? I had a 18" ratchet and put my whole weight on it (I'm 230 lbs) than unscrewed and torqued it to 120 ft-lbs
Old May 12, 2010 | 01:06 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by zheka
Amave: it's a 2.25 inch drop, so maybe one finger in between the fender and wheel
Scottwax: do you have the write up? I had a 18" ratchet and put my whole weight on it (I'm 230 lbs) than unscrewed and torqued it to 120 ft-lbs
The FSM has detailed instructions, page AX-5. You should be able to find a link pretty quickly with a search and be able to download it.

Regarding the lock-nut:

Tighten wheel bearing lock nut.
: 255 - 333 N·m (26 - 34 kg-m, 188 - 245 ft-lb)
Old May 12, 2010 | 01:51 PM
  #10  
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by zheka
Amave: it's a 2.25 inch drop, so maybe one finger in between the fender and wheel
Scottwax: do you have the write up? I had a 18" ratchet and put my whole weight on it (I'm 230 lbs) than unscrewed and torqued it to 120 ft-lbs
well, having it dropped won't make the new bearing fail, it usually does over time....


this is a strange one
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