Champ2433

iTrader: (9)

I am hoping someone else has experienced this problem. Lately my 5 spd has been cutting out in reverse. It only stalls under load (i.e. up hills) and it really just cuts out. The car rolls backwards with no issue and will back-up on level ground, it really only occurs on hills. There are no issues at all going forwards, up hills or any grinding noises, etc.

I just replaced the bottom radiator support as this had rusted out to the point where the cross member broke off, I had thought this would help on it's own as the engine would torque down hard in reverse, but it didn't. I also replaced the rear crank sensor as it did have a small crack. The brakes are brand new, I replaced them right after this started as they were already due, I ended up replacing all calipers as the seals were worn bad.

Has anyone else had this issue, and if so what was the solution? I can fix/replace most everyhting on my own and can't really see anything else obvious. Any ideas would be greatly appreciate.


The car has 100k miles even, clutch was replaced at 85k, right cv was replaced about the same time, no codes.

5 ltr. beater

would i be considered a jerk if i said that maybe you should give it a little more gas?

Champ2433

iTrader: (9)

LOL...I wish it was that easy.

Regardless of the RPM level as soon as the clutch engages the car cuts out.

sontakke

Only thing which would explain this would be worn motor mount causing one of the wire to short when the engine has to produce the torque when going in reverse. Does it die instantly or sputters before dieing? That way you will know if ignition is being cut or fuel is being cut.

But please tell me about replacing the radiator support. I am not handy as you are and will get my mechanic to do it. Can you outline the necessary steps? I am hoping there is a way to do this without removing the radiator.

- Vikas

Champ2433

iTrader: (9)

It just cuts out completely so the problem is definitely electrical/ignition related.

The radiator support was very labor intensive. The entire front clip needs to be removed; bumper, headlights, grille, supports. The good thing for me was only the bottom part of the radiator support was bad so I was able to just replace the bottom half. The radiator could stay connected to the block, water pump, but it needs to be removed from the supports so you would need to support it in some way. The biggest thing is the condenser needs to be re-pressurized as the coils are in front of the radiator.

I had two body shops look at it prior and both quoted costs between $550 and $600 with the main price difference being labor. Given the costs to me and the time/work, I would probably just recommend having it done by a body shop, it's a lot of work for one person.