Advice for Removing the Rear Oil Cooler Pipe
07-09-2010, 08:46 AM
#1
Advice for Removing the Rear Oil Cooler Pipe
There are 2 little coolant system pipes down near the lower oil pan. (I have no pics, but if you know what I'm referring to, then you don't need them.) Back in March, I had the front one replaced because it was turning into a nasty, flaky tube of rust. It was only $22, and my mechanic replaced it in no time as preventative maintenance.
However, we were looking at the rear pipe this morning. This one is a little more complicated, and snakes up to the engine, with a banjo bolt very near the exhaust manifold. We'd like to replace this one, too. However, that top bolt looks problematic for clearance because of the manifold. Before hacking at this job, I thought it would be a good idea to first ask advice on the Org.
Can anyone weigh in with experience and advice on this part replacement process?
However, we were looking at the rear pipe this morning. This one is a little more complicated, and snakes up to the engine, with a banjo bolt very near the exhaust manifold. We'd like to replace this one, too. However, that top bolt looks problematic for clearance because of the manifold. Before hacking at this job, I thought it would be a good idea to first ask advice on the Org.
Can anyone weigh in with experience and advice on this part replacement process?
07-10-2010, 05:57 AM
#6
My Cattman y-pipe is pushing 3 years old, and still looks as good as the day it was installed. Good materials. Good construction. Oddly enough, my Cattman cat-back is showing its age, even though the muffler/tips are still excellent.Off-topic anyway, Markus. I need to figure out how difficult it is to remove the rear oil cooler pipe on the 5.5 6MT. It's a little pipe, about as thick as a pencil. And painted black when new. The paint is long since gone. What remains is a leprous, rusty piece of junk. I'd like to replace it as preventative maintenance, like the front pipe, before I start dumping coolant fluid.
07-10-2010, 06:01 AM
#7
YES! Dude, you're amazing. I couldn't find that in the FSM. Part #10 is the pipe we replaced in March, for the same rusty reasons. Do you have a NISSAN part number for that.
My mechanic wasn't sure there was clearance to back it off because of the exhaust manifold, and suggested I look for advice here before hacking at it.
My mechanic wasn't sure there was clearance to back it off because of the exhaust manifold, and suggested I look for advice here before hacking at it.
07-10-2010, 06:08 AM
#8
140538J100, alternate: 140538J11A
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_1/
Unfortunately I don't know any specifics regarding its removal. Perhaps try to remove it, and if unable then attack the manifold.
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_1/
Unfortunately I don't know any specifics regarding its removal. Perhaps try to remove it, and if unable then attack the manifold.
07-10-2010, 06:33 AM
#9
140538J100, alternate: 140538J11A
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_1/
Unfortunately I don't know any specifics regarding its removal. Perhaps try to remove it, and if unable then attack the manifold.
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_1/
Unfortunately I don't know any specifics regarding its removal. Perhaps try to remove it, and if unable then attack the manifold.
I'm thinking of taking your diagram to my dealership and asking their senior tech about the removal process.
In the meantime, I simply can't be the only Northeast driver who's Oil Cooler Water Pipes are rusting away.
If anyone has any experience or advice on removal of Part #7 above, please share.And here's the diagram over at Courtesy Parts:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1981_1986.html
Last edited by Rochester; 07-10-2010 at 06:38 AM.
07-10-2010, 06:57 AM
#10
I had to replace that pipe when I did the headers/exhaust. It was so rusted that while being removed it started leaking on the spot as it was being touched.
In all seriousness it is a straightforward replacement, you just have to drain the coolant and refill when its done.
In all seriousness it is a straightforward replacement, you just have to drain the coolant and refill when its done.
07-24-2010, 05:45 PM
#14
my car had 50K miles in MD/VA and still looked brand new
in that diagram it looks like it connects between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold...hard to tell though...if its there, it shouldnt be too hard to do
in that diagram it looks like it connects between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold...hard to tell though...if its there, it shouldnt be too hard to do
07-24-2010, 05:51 PM
#15
07-24-2010, 06:28 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
Having once removed the rear block coolant drain plug on my '00 which was an absolute ***** because of the difficult access (the frame/engine support/exhaust etc), this pipe on the VQ35 may be difficult for the same reason. The exhaust manifold was not the problem......it was just getting the socket on it, although with the banjo fitting arrangement it will at least be protruding further from the block. I ended up with about a two foot 1/2" drive extension and flex adaptor on the socket.
07-24-2010, 07:26 PM
#18
Having once removed the rear block coolant drain plug on my '00 which was an absolute ***** because of the difficult access (the frame/engine support/exhaust etc), this pipe on the VQ35 may be difficult for the same reason. The exhaust manifold was not the problem......it was just getting the socket on it, although with the banjo fitting arrangement it will at least be protruding further from the block. I ended up with about a two foot 1/2" drive extension and flex adaptor on the socket.
07-24-2010, 08:06 PM
#19
You should be able to remove it with a GEAR WRENCH, just make sure you replace the crush washers (2ea) at the banjo fitting....Seems to be more than enough room once you remove the air blast shields on the passenger side....
09-02-2010, 05:36 AM
#21
Some follow-up closure on this, in case anyone searches into it...
Turns out there was enough clearance to back off the bolt and remove the pipe without having to mess around for clearance.
Extremely tight design.
But the new water pipe is on and it's all good.
Turns out there was enough clearance to back off the bolt and remove the pipe without having to mess around for clearance.
Extremely tight design.
But the new water pipe is on and it's all good.
11-14-2010, 05:17 AM
#23
10-13-2019, 07:03 PM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 47
Rochester, I hope you're still here on the forums, I tried all day to get something on that bolt to loosen it. Please give me some advice on how you got that bolt removed.
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