zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

OK, so the time is ticking, the 03 TE SE has been immobilized due to loose piston for 4 days now, and it seems like King Bear's Harjit will get the bid for the labor. Engine is still being located, but I decided to put 6th gen in the bay. Why? For those who don't know the 6th gen is almost identical to 5.5 but is 1) tuned to produce ten more horsies 2) there are no 02-03 engines out there with under 100k, and as far as the price, the 6th gen motor is actually cheaper. Only thing I still need to know, besides the intake manifold and knock sensor/crank position sensor anything else needs to be swapped. I'm still not clear on the oil pan issue, would that be the same going from auto to auto? BTW, the intake mani on the 6th gen has an EGR, exhaust gas recirculation <-- some new emission bill passed for all vehicles 04 and up. It doesn't decrease performance, it basically uses some of the exhaust gas for the intake so less exhaust comes out therefore keeping our planet GREENER...
Anyway, any ideas if I could just remove the EGR valve from the 6th gen mani instead of swapping? Also, I would think that its a good idea to replace all gaskets that will be coming off during the install. Anyone knows exactly what gaskets I would need? And another question, will the headers be plug and play or would I need aftermarkets? Anyone knows where to go for reliable engines?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

For those of us who didn't know? You will be using the A33B ECU, so there isn't any 'tuning' really going on. The A34 has softer valve springs, and a more reliable set of valve covers, that's the only thing you'll be 'upgrading' (softer VS isn't an upgrade, IMO).

That's valid.


Auto to auto is fine. Looks like you've done a little research, that's good.

... A33B's have internal EGR, so ahh yeah, and 1995 Maxima's have external EGR, just like your GREEN 6th gen engine. same theory, different application, same results.


Block it using a plate.

All of them, are you effing serious?


OEM A34 headers?


www.car-part.com is where I'd go. A lot of stuff there so shop around.


Oh yeah ...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...o-5-5-gen.html

essential1

iTrader: (5)

First link was broken, I fixed it. I quoted everything that has the answers he needs.

Grand_hustle17

iTrader: (22)

I don't get it.... ain't it still all the same????

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

is up with that lately? Thanks man

MAXbendikssen

Lowmileageparts.com 2003 free shipping $890.00 your welcome

essential1

iTrader: (5)

For the most part. Basically, if it's FWD oriented and it starts with the letters "VQ", it can be swapped in easilly.

LongIslandMax

iTrader: (3)

Glad you found someone to do the swap for you. I forgot to mention in your other thread that there is someone in the NYC area selling 2004+ Vq35's for 660 + tax. Not sure if you found one already, but just in case your still looking here is his thread:
http://nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=53928

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I was going to say, i don;t think I'd pay more than $700 shipped.

MAXbendikssen

In my area they are hard to find. Even local engine places charge in the thousands, that was the only site i found that offered free shipping and still stayed below 1000. Maybe consider it a last resort.

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

This is exactly the type of info I need. The problem with parts.com is that there really no feedback on them, the website is just a broker listing diff salvage yards. It would really suck if I got the engine and it had issues (though nissan engines are well known to be very reliable) I want to make sure that if the salvage yard says the engine runs - it runs.


I'm trying to find out exactly which gaskets, that is why I said "I would think that its a good idea to replace all gaskets that will be coming off during the install. Anyone knows exactly what gaskets I would need?" I want to have the gaskets on hand when I come in for the swap.

Grand_hustle17

iTrader: (22)

Car-parts.com.... lowmileage motors for probebly $600 freighted... your welcome both of yall

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Myself and essential posted that car-part link already, so.. try it, and happy searching.

As far as gaskets, I would check the VC's and IM, and HG.

essential1

iTrader: (5)

^^Exactly^^

You can just purchase a complete HG set also and it should come with all gaskets from the heads on up. Just use silicone to reseal the timing cover if your gonna take the heads off too.

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

Might as well do cams, valve springs, retainers, timing chain tensioners, and rod bolts while you're in there... jk...but really

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

And while the engine is out, perfect time

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Might want to consider changing the water pump and timing chain tensioner while the engine is out.

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

So the extra 10 horses come from a34 ECU? Anyone knows?

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

The extra 10 horses are BS. They switched the standards for rating power or something, because the later year 6th gens are back to 255HP.

PetitFrereMaxima

iTrader: (2)

I think you are right. My 2008 is back to 255hp as opposed to 265hp on the 04-06. Due to the switched standards for rating power.

CraigSE

Same with the Altima.

My Altima (2002) was rated the lowest of all the 3.5's at 240, but was always known in the Altima community as the fastest Altima made.

st165turbo

Does this apply to doing a 5.5gen or 6th gen into a 5th gen? So 3.5 swap into a 3.0 swap?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

No, this is 6th gen engine into 5.5 gen chassis.

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

Would that involve more work? (5th gen motor out -> 5.5/6th gen in)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Of course, and IIRC, there is or are threads on it. Here's not the place to research as much as say the Am forum.

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

Damnit! I could have had 10 extra horses?!?! WTF didn't anyone tell me!! Damn you!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Coulda shoulda woulda

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

Any idea if I could reuse 6th gen engine mounts as well as the headers
(i know 6th gen has dual exhaust)? Any way to clean the original headers? I'm gonna start moving my car to the shop tomorrow and I dont really (actually, I really dont) have the money for the headers and the mounts. This way when I call the salvage yard tomorrow I can try to work out a deal for the engine to include them. And would that be a good idea to reuse?

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and PS... If headers and/or mounts are not same 5.5th gen to 6th gen, then which ones would I use if I drop 6th gen engine in?

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Might as well buy new mounts since the engine will be out. Buy mounts made for 02-03. Use your original headers

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

^^^^

And the OEM A34 exhaust isn't a true dual, just looks that way from behind.

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

So still not clear on the headers, will my 5.5 be plug and play when I throw the 6th gen in the bay?

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Better?

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

Wat?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

wat > Wat

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

Fmylife

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

I missed that somehow...

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

Finally had Harjit do the swap. Few issues:

1) AC is NOT working. The air is coming out but not even remotely chilled. The AC compressor seems to make the on/off sound and from inside the car I hear something that sounds like a faint whining when AC compressor is on. As soon as I switch to fan the whining dies down. (I have .66 pounds out of 1.2 pounds of freon and the system was vacuumed)

2) There is a whining sound coming from timing side of the engine, it sounds like an old american-built (fords in particular) with a bad power steering pump. It gets louder at higher RPM but turning the steering wheel has no effect on the sound-only engine speed. Same in drive as in neutral.

3) The engine fan seems to be working overtime. It doesn't turn on immediately when the vehicle is started, otherwise I would lean towards the lack of a thermostat, but it doesn't shut off after the initial engine warm-up. Just keeps working, and working faster(louder) then usual. It also smells like antifreeze around the engine compartment.
Is it possible all those are related? Anyone with feedback is welcome.

PS HAHAHA <- this is me laughing in advance at all silly remarks, such as 'roll down your windows, you don't need AC or make the music louder and you wont hear the whining' etc... I'm serious, need to get this car in shape for durability. It sux spending 12-13 hun to find out I need to replace the whole car.

Oh, and the engine feels much stronger at higher rpm the the old one...

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

1: you pin-pointed your problem right there, your freon level is half of what it should be. Your low pressure switch isn't allowing the compressor to kick on because the lack of freon and oil in your sytem would burn up the compressor.

2: check your new engine's belt tensioner pulley, perhaps the bearing is on its way out.

3: my fans were also so active at my initial startup that I couldn't get the engine to come up to temp at idle, I had to sit in the car and hold the rpm up a while so I could top off my radiator. That antifreeze smell could simply be residual burning off from the work performed- there will always be oil and coolant on various surfaces after a job like you're talking about that needs to burn off as the engine gets up to temp.

And I'd be surprised if you get any "roll the windows down" remarks, the entire country's pushing triple digits, I know down here it almost hurts to breathe. Let someone else turn their radio up to drown out engine noises and see what their VQ's do to them