Ok... I really hope someone can help me out here. Here's what happened:
I just seafoamed my car. Then I went out for a bit of semi-spirited driving. While going WOT, my car reached almost redline and then banged and the engine stopped. I coasted to a stop, and tried starting my car. I could get it to start, but it would stutter for a few seconds and stop. After a few tries, it finally stayed running, and I was able to drive home... while driving home, my car wouldn't rev above 2200rpm. When I did get it home, I turned it off and tried restarting it. It's doing the stutter and die thing again... runs for a few seconds and then dies. I have a CEL, and the TCS Off and SLIP lights have both come on during my multiple attempts to start my car. I also had a brief A/T Check light upon startup 2 times, but I think that may be related to the fact that I have done the Drop Resistor Mod with WOT Switch and sometimes get that light when I use it (which I did on my WOT run). Is it possible that this is a transmission problem??! That wouldn't make the engine run rough like this would it?
Is this a seafoam-related problem??! It seems too big of a coincidence to be something else... I know the "not revving above 2200" seems MAF-related, but can a bad MAF cause the engine to bang and quit at WOT at high rpms?
Anyone have any thoughts based on all these symptoms? Please help!

 

I honestly think the maf may very well be the culprit. I know when I forgot to plug in my maf after installing headers, I immediately got both the TCS and SLIP lights.

How much seafoam did you run through the IM? Pull your cel code and see where that points you. Personally, I won't use seafoam again. My car ran really rough after adding just 1/3 can through the brake booster.

 

sounds like a MAF to me. I was at WOT when my first MAF went. It literally felt like i hit a brick wall. My car did the same thing, it would start sputter for a few seconds then die. If it is the maf check your build date and get one out of a junk yard for cheap.

 

Oh man, this is what I like to hear! What a relief. Yeah, that was EXACTLY what happened. Felt like I hit a brick wall Well, now I can do the 2K/2K1 MAF swap (where you just swap the little thermistor)... I've just been waiting for my MAF to crap out like this. Good to know all my symptoms can be MAF-related.
Hey, another question. Over the last month or so, I noticed that at about 70% throttle acceleration, my car didn't accelerate perfectly smoothly. It kind of pulsed (it was barely noticeable) between 3000 and 5000 rpm. Could this have been a symptom of my MAF gradually going bad?

 

Seems like you found the answer you need, But i will go ahead and add another confirmation to the fact that its the maf. Bad maf will cause all kinds of bad things.

When the maf goes bad the car instantly enters safe mode. your engine will be limited less then 3k the car will run rich, and both of your fans will be on high. The fans are a pretty solid way of telling if the car is in safe mod or if its just messin up. 99% of the time they both will be on high.

The ecu will try everything it can to save the car.

 

Ok, so funny story.
I see that courtestyparts has a 2001 MAF for $87... so I decided to call my dealership to see if they had a 2001 MAF for roughly the same price... after several minutes of looking, the parts guy quoted me for $629!!!! For the cheaper 2001 MAF! Looks like I'll be ordering it online. Wow... that's insane.

 

as others have said...bad MAF...not related to seafoam

 

$629? thats it? lol the dealer i went to wanted $750 for my maf, and that was before the 1 hour $80 charge to put it in. I laughed in their face.

 

Damn that is crazy on the dollars and good luck with the new MAF

 

Were they trying to bend you over and pull your pants down when they told you that?

 

Yes they were. But I'm a fast runner.

 

So I installed my 2k1 MAF today on my '02 (did the thermistor swap and soldered it on). Now the car runs like new! I gotta go drive around for a while tonight thanks a ton to everyone who helped me diagnose the problem!

 

I would probably check the alternator too. It happen to me last week and it was the alternator. When I checked the voltage, it's said 17v.

 

Hi jowo9, I have a similar problem with an 02 Maxima GLE. TCS & Slip Light came on while trying to pass, started bucking (didn't pass). Grounded pin 9 today at Auto Value Auto Parts today, SLIP blinked code 87. Auto Value didn't know what that code was for. They did check the SES light it was a P1102 for MAF. My Maxima starts and runs smooth, but lags during acceleration and runs rough at 65 or 110km. Any info on Code 87, will new MAF fix this also? Thanks.

 

Sounds like a wonky VIAS. I put a block plate on my car and those symptoms went away entirely.

 

He already has a block plate.

 

I don't know what code 87 would be, but your symptoms sound like your MAF is going bad. Get a 2k1 MAF and swap out your thermistor. It's cheaper that way, and I think the 2k1 MAF is stronger anyway.

 

Code 87 from what system diagnostics? (ABS/TCM)?

 

Code 87 from what system diagnostics? (ABS/TCM)?

The code 87 is from grounding pin 9, it was a TCS Diagnostic.

 

Hi everyone, I picked up a reman2001 MAF. I decided to clean the old one with CRC's MAF cleaner. It cleaned up real well, but still doesn't work, only took me 5 hrs (I don't usually tackle something like this). I took most of air intake system apart to get at that fourth bolt. Now I reread jowo9 for the 10th time and I finally see he left everything together and only swapped out the thermistor. I have a new problem, the new Maf has tamper resistant screws holding it on. I thought I had to put old thermistor into new MAF (no it didn't make sense to me either). So please confirm I have this right, I can put new thermistor into old (clean)MAF, if I can get it unscrewed, or put the whole new 2001 MAF into my 2002 Maxima GLE and everything will work???

 

You have to get it unscrewed. Swap the thermistor from your old MAF into the 2k1 MAF (because it doesn't have one). A new thermistor won't fix your old MAF. Use the new one. Just put your old thermistor in it.

 

Thanks, Why did you solder your thermistor? Also the thermistor is the whole thing that I pull out when I unscrew it, right? I don't really get why we only use the plastic tube and screen from the new MAF, with the old thermistor ( it looks like the only part that could capable of going bad. I'll do it, I don't doubt you, but I don't get why the old screen is bad but old thermistor is good.

 

Ok first off, somebody shoot me in the face now. I don't know if you should be doing this job. K. I'm gonna try to be clear here. The tube is just the MAF housing. The thing you pull out when you get it unscrewed is the MAF. The thermistor is the little tiny orange thing on the MAF. Just search and find the how to with pictures. Search for 2k1 MAF swap or something. It's not hard to find. Good luck not screwing up your car.

 

ThreadJacker

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-pictures.html

 

Thanks to jowo9 & NmexMAX, I did the search last night as recommended and I found the same site that NmexMAX offered. I looks as simple as it should be, I'll do it later today. This site has been invaluable to me, I apologize for my lack of experience. I will continue to read up so that i am more informed.

 

Hahaha. Your intentions were good. He figured it out.

I soldered the thermistor on my new MAF. Too many people talking about it getting loose, so this is a reasonable precaution.