I have about 138K on my 2000 Maxima SE. I'm already on my 4th set of back pads, and only 2nd set of front. I notice that the back wheels get a lot more brake dust than the front. Is this normal?

Keith

 

Using standard organic liner on the rear and ceramic up front?

 

Chances are your rear calipers have seized up, causing the brakes to drag.

Very common problem......

 

Definitely not TYPICAL, and probably not normal.

I agree with first response: mixed pads??

And yes, you could be getting a certain amount of drag that's wearing the rears faster.

Are you noticing any noises, excessive heat, smoke, or other abnormal behavior??

gr

 

No smoking, heat, abnormal behavior, other than the wear and lots of brake dust on the wheels, the brakes appear to be working fine. Rotors don't appear to be discolored or worn strange. Also, it's equal on both sides, which makes me think the issue isn't with the caliper seizing (would be weird that both did it). Is there any way to change the brake bias towards the front?

As far as pads, I've always used Nissan OEM pads. So, if they're ceramic front and organic back, it's what Nissan sells.

Thanks for the responses so far....

Keith

 

Have you ever had the brake proportioning valve checked out? There is a simple procedure with a spec on page BR 11 or BR 12 of the FSM for accomplishing a check of the brake proportioning valve.

 

Yes: Get a 6th gen BBK!!

Must be the CANDIAN FSM....I don't see that in the online one I'm looking at?!
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2003/br.pdf

Kinda curious about this little bugger!

 

i agree with Long island...it could quite possibly be your caliper...is it hard to turn in when you change the pads? also i've had ceramic pads on my car since at least 120k-130k miles and i'm at 186k (2years) and the pads looks great and so do my rotors...and i'm 99% sure my rotors are still from the factory and they have the thickness of almost a new set..

 

I've had 3 sets of rear brakes, a new set every 30K miles. I've got 62K on the car right now, and I'm the original owner.

• Original OEM brakes
• Akebono Pads with Brembo Blanks
• Hawk HPS Pads with Centric Blanks

I've come to the conclusion that the OEM, un-vented, rear brake specifications are not adequate for our car. If I didn't have 16" steelies for the winter, I would have upgraded to a BBK rather than my current config.

Although I'll say this, Hawk HPS w/Centric rotors is a fantastic combination.

 

Heh...

I've had the same rotors/calipers for 80k on the rear, only changed the pads ONCE, and that was a voluntary upgrade to Hawks @ 30k.
Just replaced the rotors/calps/pads last week.

Conversely: on the front -- I've been thru 3 sets of rotors, each one of those lathed ONE time (so, technically 6 sets of rotors!!!), and three sets of pads. Including new calipers (6th gen bbk).

I HATE the front system with a passion....but I'm too cheap to fork-out $1500 for a bbk.
Even then -- I still think I'd be douching rotors at an unacceptable rate -- so I just keep slapping-on cheap replacements.

I think it's safe to say, that the Braking system on the Maximas is total ****e.
What this amounts to is an UNDERSIZED set of rotors and Calipers on both ends, and an archaic e-brake system on the rear (external), which necessitates a smaller than adequate rotor and caliper.

Bottom Line:
we just have to DEAL with it.

gr

 

OP, it actually is very possible for both of the rears to seize up. Happened to me. One was worse than the other, though.

I agree with gr. One of the biggest letdowns (besides the solid rear beam ) is our wimpy, inadequate braking system. There are a lot of ways to upgrade it fairly cheaply and easily, but being that I don't track my car, I haven't bothered with it.

I put on D/S rotors and ceramic pads and called it a day. Once the ceramics heat up to operating temp, they feel great.

By the way, FWIW, when my calipers were hanging in the rear, there was never any smoke or smells. Only way I found out that they were hanging was that I walked by my car one afternoon and noticed it felt like an oven when I stood next to my rear wheels. And small heat cracks in the rear pads when I pulled them off.

 

at 138k more than likely

 

I put new rebuilt calipers on the car last month. ALl 4 pads had at least 5-6mm of meat left on them. Last week the drivers side started to grind. The 2 pds were both toast...

I checked the FSM and page 11 and 12 is pedal adjustment. I don't see anything for brake bias

 

The OP has a Gen. 5 car which has the brake dual proportioning valve as I mentioned. On quickly checking the Gen. 5.5 FSMs I don't see any proportioning valve. There appears to have been a change in the system after the Gen. 5 cars. To the OP........are you sure that the caliper pistons are being fully wound in and that there is no real sign of brake dragging right after accomplishing each of your rear brake pad replacements?

 

Ever since I bought my 2K new my rear OEM pads wear out twice as fast as the front pads. Hard to believe that my calipers were seized since day one but I suppose it's possible. If they are seized I would expect your gas mileage to be very low.

 

both my rear calipers were seized at 100k, so I changed all my rotors, calipers and pads when I did the 6th gen BBK.

 

5.5 has a "4 way connector" but there is nothing mentioning what it does or if it requires any maintenance. the 5.5 FSM also mentions you need a brake pressure tester, exactly the same as the 5th gen FSM but doesn't show you where to use it in the 5.5 FSM...

 

Thanks for all of the responses so far, lots to check out. My fuel mileage is pretty consistent, running around 23 to 24 in mostly freeway driving, with a lot of stop and go (I commute ~45 miles each way in Los Angeles traffic). I'll make it a point to see if my rear wheels feel hot on Monday after driving to work. If so, then maybe a brake upgrade is in my future.

Can somebody post the link with the information on how to adjust the proportioning valve?

Again, thanks for the responses. Great forum!!

Keith

 

I'd grab a set of rotors and pads from RTP. The OEM stuff is garbage in my opinion. I chewed through them very quickly once I got my car. As long as your calipers are in good condition, and Nissan calipers do have a tendency to seize, upgrade the rotors and pads. Comparison based on my experience, OEM stuff lasted me ~18k, RTP rotors and Axxis MM pads lasted me ~55k.