I'm also interested in this kit. It looks like it's more cost-efficient to get the whole LCA's with all the bushings and ball joints installed, rather than getting separate bushings and ball joints for my existing LCA's. Hopefully we will see some feedback from ghostrider17 pretty soon or anybody else who completes the installation.

 

I started replacing the LCA's yesterday -- pretty involved process, for ME anyway!
Had a few issues, but mostly due to rusty bolts and lack of proper tools on my part.
I'll post-up a few more impressions and report back when i get her all back together and functional.

So far, the shipping was good - and the parts all look identical to OEM's.
The ONLY thing not included with the kit, would be a replacement rubber boot for the inner tie rods -- but that's just a minor gripe.
For $140 shipped, there's NO complaining!!

i'll report back when I'm done in another day or two.

gr

 

Receiving my kit today. Should be installed soon. Will post up as well! Looking forward to your impressions ghostrider.

 

Good to hear Nate. Please post pics if you can.

 

Ive gotten some feedback from Nate (ghostrider17) and its looks like BBK's will indeed hit our arms. Just giving the heads up for members with this upgrade.

 

I can't confirm that they will INDEED RUB the rotors like 2slow's Dorman LCA's, as I have not put the tires back on yet, or put the car on the ground (laden suspension).
But after installing the Driver side -- mine look EXACTLY like his did.

I have about 1-2mm clearance from the leading edge of the LCA to the back side (inner) of my brake rotor.
Whereas, the OEM LCA's (5.5gen) have about 3-4mm of clearance -- so roughly double the clearance on the OEM's.

And to confirm: I DO indeed have the 6th gen BBK installed on my car.

Hopefully, somebody with OEM 5.5 rotors will be able to confirm whether or not it's the BBK that's causing this, after they do the install.

Fyi guys.

Thanks for posting this up Ellison.

gr

 

All PM's replied to.

 

Colin thank you for your order.

 

THought I'd post a quick update:

I DID indeed remove about 1-2 mm of metal from the extruded "lip" of the LCA that comes near the back side (inner) rotor surface.
And yes - I DID prime and repaint it black!

I have NO - REpeat NO clearance issues, laden, unladen, or while driving.
I tested while driving with wheels lock-to-lock while turning in left and right circles.

So, I'd say with just a BARE minimum of modification -- these LCA's fit a 5.5 WITH 6th BBK PERFECTLY!

*Just for clarification: i DID NOT test for rubbing or rotor/lca contact with the wheels on, while driving. I made the modification BEFORE I tested for clearance, as I felt it was less effort to simply remove a small amt from the LCA, then to have to go back later and do this.*

Just fyi.
The kit works great!

Would like to hear from a few guys who've installed the lca's that have OEM rotors now.

gr

 

email sent....looking to purchase. Thanks!

 

If you have 100K on your Maxima, you will not believe the difference when you install new LCAs. My car drives like new.

 

Still for sale?

 

Absolutely still for sale. Let me know when you are ready.

 

WOuld like to hear some feedback from the other guys who've purchased this kit?!?!?

Where r u guys?!

***
Quick update from me:
All is well.
I ended-up using the swaybar endlinks with the kit, and replaced my OEM's that were shot @ 20k miles.
This turned-out to be the MAJORITY of my noise issues.
I was pissed, because these were 2 yr old OEM sway bar links, and they are totally shot.
I had replaced the sway bar bushings 20k ago as well, and they seemed to be fine as of now.

I'm sorry to report, that I'm getting some binding from the pass. side sway bar link that's causing a bit of a clunk on turns/transitions occaisionally.

This could be due to an installation error on my part, or perhaps the fact that these links were designed for a 4-5th gen vehicle....dunno.
It's not serious -- but i'll have to go back in and re-evaluate the malody, and report back.

gr

 

Cool, I appreciate it (and definitely need some ).

 

Wait so when you installed the new ones they made the sound still (albeit not as bad)?

I still have to get this kit tho lol

 

Ready to buy the kit. Let me know

 

Update:

Installed the full LCA kit. I have notes, tips, parts list, a bunch of pictures, and a full write-up coming soon. Just working with my mechanic and reviewing the entire process.
Got a full alignment today, and car is feeling great!

 

Call me on Monday. 877-634-0063 ex 213.

 

Looking forward to seeing this write.

 

Will do...I hope 8-9am est is cool

 

This is what I'm hoping for, b/c, I don't know what it is, the car is feeling super 'flat' in the front. (maybe the weather)

 

Got the lca's installed this morning. Like ghostrider, I'm definitely experiencing some rubbing/grinding. The new lca's are tucked right up to the brake rotor (I have OEM rotors)

My next step is to file down the metal and hopefully the binding will stop.

ghostrider you have any updates?

 

ok i have a few question, I installed this kit on my 5.5 gen(well i installed everything but both inner and the driver outer tie rods, no money for an alignment) and i noticed that there are no grease fittings on the outer tie rods or the ball joints. How are you supposed to grease them? On another note, to the people having the rubbing issues, do you have camber plates or bolts? this could affect where the brake is in relation to the LCA. I installed this kit on my car with stock brakes and on another with the 6th gen BBK and neither of us have any issues at all to speak of in including rubbing.

 

I didn't really THINK it was a BBK issue, since the overall "thickness" of the rotor/calps is about the same.
I bought a cheap grinder from Harbor Freight and made quick work of THAT little job. Using a file will require some elbow grease.

I don't have any updates really -- I still have some interesting noises and clunks that weren't there before, but it's a fair trade since the suspension is MUCH better now (major clunks/rattles) with the Kit.
Don't be afraid of this "modification" -- you aren't hurting ANYTHING, and NOBODY will know or see it, but you. Make SURE you prime/paint the bare metal -- it'll rust BAD.

Like I said before -- MOST of my sloppiness was coming from the SwayBar Links, but I DID have an LCA bushing on the Driver's side that was metal/metal, so i just did the whole kit to get the suspension "fresh" again.

hopefully, new Struts in the spring will make her ride like, eh-hem: NEW again.
For $140 bucks complete, I'd Do it AGAIN.....in another 100k miles!

gr

 

Okay I took some metal off the lca, and pushed the brake shield away from the rotor (that took away all sounds)

I now have one remaining issue: the ride. It still feels like I have no power steering and I get a lot of feedback in the steering wheel. Power steering fluid seems fine. I didn't have any issues w/ it before the install.

Do you think the moog endlinks too big for these?

Honestly, if I could go back, I would probably still buy this kit again as well, on the strength that lca's aside, you're still getting inners/outers ball joints etc. Hard to complain for $140.

 

We have been selling these kits for a while now and the 6th gen upgrade seems to be the only issues. I know some say even with the stock 5th gen brakes it rubs but the kit we sent out for testing from our fellow ORG member on here didn't even have this issue.

 

Interested in seeing/hearing Zeead (sp?) swap out his ES bushing LCA's to these FCP LCA's!

Once the review kicks in there will be many buyers at this price!

 

Are these still $140.00 shipped?

 

Yes sir. You can pay via paypal or call me up on Monday to take care of you.

 

Sorry I havent posted it up yet guys. Been really busy these past weeks.
Comparing to the ES bushings, they definitely are softer but I did have issues with my ES set. One side was breaking apart / deformed, so I needed to replace them anyways. I am getting a clunking noise, so I will investigate the endlinks like some others have reported.

 

So You just did the lower control arms and not the end links?

 

I had the entire kit installed, but I want to see if a noise that I am getting is related to the new end links like others have reported.

 

With them freshly installed it should be easy to remove the end-links and drive around to see if you can isolate the clunk to them. This weekend it might get into the 40's

 

Yeah - too cold here, and no heated garage.

It'll wait until spring.

By then, I'll be able to install the inner tie rods, some ES Sway Bar Bushings, new struts, and new rubber.
Woo-HOO!

gr

 

Still going for $140 shipped??

 

Yes they are. Let me know when your ready to pull the trigger.

 

I installed this kit 1800 miles ago. At the same time I installed all new shocks/struts, springs, strut bearings mounts and bellows.

My gripes are the following:

grinding coming from left side (could be a wheel bearing, I'll confirm this upcoming weekend when I grind down a little bit of the CA)...also I should note, I'm on stock 5th calipers and rotors.

Second gripe is I was sent the wrong inner tie rod end. Huge PITA and the reason I loathe working on cars, something like this always happens. I didn't know if in fact it was the inner or outer that was bad, so I went out and bought moog inner/outer tie rods.

One thing I'd like to note, holding OEM/FCP and MOOG outer tie rods together the MOOG was superior in thickness, then OEM, then FCP...the wall thingness on the thread visibly varied between the two FCP outters we had.

My thoughts are the varying wall thickness of the outter tie-rods and grinding that some people are complaining about is due to lack of quality controls equating to slight variations in the product.

With that said, aside from the grinding everything else is holding up very well and I have no complaints. For 140 dollars it's a killer deal (just check your parts when they arrive!) especially since the inner/outter moog parts with coupon codes were just over 150 from Advance.

 

Varrying thickness in the inner tie rod assembly would make the aftermarket branded set less better the the Moog, As long the tensile strength in the aftermarket unit and the OEM is equal that is what is the important part.

 

Alright, so I took a look at the control arm/hub unit, my grining was caused by the dust shield rubbing on the rotor NOT the control arm.