Ok so here is my question. I am picking up a AEM uego tomorrow. Just curious on where to drill and weld the bung on the exhaust. i have a test pipe instead of the cat and was thinking on drilling a hole right before there. is that good place or is there a better place. Anyone that has installed their Wide-band have any helpful info on where to drill for this?
Also where do you run your wires through from the outside to inside the cabin. I couldn't find any useable holes to send the wiring thru. Any info on that as well?

 

O2 sensor can really be mounted anywhere between the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position on your exhaust. Preferably before the test pipe, at the base of your Y-pipe.

As far as running the wires, there's the factory entry point through the firewall on the driver's side. I believe it runs in behind the interior fuse box...

 

Thanks SLC,
Ill have to look and see where that entry point is. I know one is used up by my power wire for the stereo. I may have to drill a new one.

 

One other question i forgot to ask is this. I read in a few other car threads it matters where you draw power from. Someone had it to their radio fuse and someone stated when going from Acc to cranking there is a break in power. They stated this could hurt the wb as it wouldnt calibrate itself correctly. When you guys connect power and ground what do you hook to?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...g-welding.html

Here's mine:

 

The best thing I can say is that you could try wiring it into one of your "acc" fuses in the fuse panel. If you're worried about the break in power (it happens with everything when the car is started because the starter draws the current to itself) messing with the calibration, put it on a toggle switch and turn the WB on after the car is actually started.

Or you could always wire it directly to the battery with that same toggle switch...

 

I have mine wired using the cig lighter, acc.

 

can i get a bung welded at the very begining of my test pipe? is that a good spot...its so much easier for me cuz i can just bring my test pipe to sum1 instead of my whole car

 

Sure. So long as the test pipe isn't resonated. That could get messy.

 

^^ yea its not a res. test pipe its just a straight pipe...so good thats perfect for me and much easier

 

Nmex, did you drill it or did you have someone do it. Was it a pain to drill that area. From what the directions said it needs to to be 10 degrees higher than 3 or 9 oclock. if i can drill straight in that looks like it would be a heck of a lot easier.

Have you have any problems with it reading correctly tapped into the cig, acc fuse?

 

Had a shop do it. It was like 15$ or so, very cheap.

It's right on comparing it to my cat-less dynos using the tailsniffer.

 

I tapped into the power wire near the ignition switch, I had the cover off at the time so it made sense.

 

wow 15 bucks, im getting quoted at 80-100 just to weld the bung. Robbery. Last question, were do you guys place your gauge. i was thinking near the tweeter on the dash or the column. Do you guys have pics of were you put yours.

 

I'm planning on getting a gauge pod for my a-pillar when I get my gauge installed. I'm going to hide the LM-1 box in my glove compartment.

 

So now i have another problem. i got it all drilled and welded and all wired up. i did like Nmex stated and power tapped into the cig lighter and then the grd behind the drivers kick panel. There are two grounds and i tapped into the top ground. Now the car gets a high pitched howl. Im gonna try moving the ground and see if that changes it. Has anyone gotten the high pitched noise and if so how did you get rid of it?

PS.. by the way my AFR read 14.6-15 all the way home. It would change with letting off the throttle or getting into it harder but usually settled at stoich. Now i just need a SAFC to get it to 12.8-13 all the time. Thats what works best for our cars ..am i right?


PPS. the whine is coming thru the speakers. When the radio is off the whine goes away, when its on the whine is there. No change in whine with acceleration...
I dont have any connections of the sensor in with the stereo. just the cig power and ground behind kick panel

 

Add additional grounds to the existing ones on the ECU chassis.
Not "all the way home".. part throttle/cruising, 14-15 should be fine, WOT, 13.0 or so is better, IMO.
That's why you need to tune to your car's potential..but 13.0+/- 5 is a good place to start.
My radio reception os totally raped in some areas when the WB is on.
Mine resides in the change holder under the climate control area. Not very stable, but it works.