I'm never WOT
I'm never close to redline on my tach.
I commute 80 miles a day round-trip, so I spend a lot of time in my Maxima.

If I spent $220 bucks for NWP intake spacers, and another $800 for a Cattman 3" exhaust system, and went with the full GAB mod, how much difference would I notice in low and midrange power, say up to 3600 rpms?

Other than being louder out the *** and whistling up front, would I feel a noticeable difference in power and any better gas mileage?

Or I could save the $1000, and just enjoy the quiet luxury car ride of my 2002 6MT. But the power is tempting me.

 

Those mods are going to net you more high-end power, being that they make the engine less restrictive. You'll actually lose a little low-end.

One mod that I noticed gave me a ton of midrange torque, however, was replacing my old, worn catalytic converter with a test pipe.

I don't know how within the bounds of legality you'd like to stay. But it was definitely a "wow," mod. Which surprised me. I wouldn't have expected a $35 piece of steel pipe to improve my throttle response that much.

 

Test pipe only helps if your cat is clogged.

It's gonna be hard to get you a factual answer, because people don't normally do "driveability/streetability" type testing. You will get a lot of opinions though.

You'll see more power across the board with NWP spacers. As far as the 3" cat-back, your peak power will be higher but I can't answer how your midrange will be affected.

In my opinion, which take it for what it's worth, a GAB + NWP is all you need if you don't go past 3,600 RPM often enough to justify going ***** out for peak power #s.

 

Actually if you look at the dyno chart for the NWP spacers, you'll notice a nice big torque gain in the low end. When I did my spacers, I DEFINITELY noticed more low end pull. I'd say those are gonna be the best mod for your needs. Aaron's spacers are marvelous.

 

+1 for the spacers

 

Like Trooplewis, I'm interested in gaining mid range HP and I think the spacers may be the best bang for the buck. I found the NWP spacers for $225 directly from their website, but can I get a better deal elsewhere?

Question 1: I have a FSTB and my intake manifold is very close to it. Once the spacers are installed, will I be able to put the FSTB back?

Question 2: There are two 12mm bolts that attach the back of the intake manifold to a bracket near the firewall. I imagine that once the spacers are in place, these won't line up anymore. Is there any problem with that?

Thanks,

 

Unless you find a used set on here, or just so happen to stumble across a Maxima in a junkyard somewhere with them, probably not. Aaron is the only one that produces these things. From what I understand, they're well worth the price tag, though.

To answer question one, I have the same issue. I'm thinking by stacking washers on the strut towers, you might be able to "cheat" that issue. Our struts have plenty of thread room, anyway. I don't have the spacers personally (YET), but I'm thinking that's going to be my simplest solution.

Answer two I won't be able to give you.

 

Save your money bro. You dont use your car for any sort of performance driving. The 3.5 has more than enough low end power in stock form to get from stop light to stop light faster than most cars that pull up next to you. Resist the temptation and use the money you saved from doing these mods for a rainy day.

Answer 1: Not 100% sure, but if I recall correctly, a friend of mine had the NWP spacers with a cattman FSTB installed together. There's a chance that it depends on which bar you have. But dont hold me to that.

Answer 2: Throw those brackets away, You dont need them. It makes changing plugs easier in the future without them too.

 

I would save your money and skip on the mods. If anything, put the ES bushings in for the shifter. You already did the STS mod.

 

You've sure been active on the Org lately, Troop. And in a good way, too. Can't help but notice. Anyway, there's already some good advice going on here in response to your question. And from current members in really good standing, IMO. Here's my 2-cents, FWIW...


Single answer:Short answer:Long answer:

 

Sounds like Spacers are all you'll really be making use of. I doubt you would notice much though if you don't push it past 3600.

Other than aesthetics and sounding great I don't think you'd notice a gain with the 3" either.

Honestly from what you've posted now and in the past just leave it stock. You don't drive hard so save your money.

 

I can honestly say that when I had just an intake and headers on my car, the response from the engine was phenomenal. Putting headers on our cars, although a pretty hefty task, will definitely give you power all the way across the board.

Intake + headers + stock catback also gives the VQ a nasty, aggressive sound. In a good way.

I know that's not really the answer you were looking for, OP. But it's there, so take it for what it's worth.

 

And an answer to the question you didn't ask:

 

 

This. I couldnt imagine owning another maxima and keeping it on stock suspension.

 

Well-thought-out answers guys, I appreciate it.

 

As far as speaking on coilovers and suspension mods, here's my input:

Excluding my FSTB, since that does nearly nothing by itself, I started out on Progress lowering springs on stock struts. Felt alright, better responsiveness. But it wasn't quite what I was looking for. So I bought a RSB. Okay, getting better. The car felt more snappy and responsive on long, sweeping turns. Still not quite what I wanted.

Finally, this spring I bought a set of Ksport coilovers. Compared to the harsh, bumpy ride of lowering springs on stock struts, the Ksports are comfortable. Even as low as my car is. troop, have you ever ridden in a 350z or G35? The ride coilovers gives our cars is...similar. But not quite as unforgiving.

Funny thing is, my Maxima currently handles just as well as, if not better than my stock Z. Of course, that would change pretty quickly if I bought coilovers for the Z. But that's beside the point.

The real eye-opener I had occurred last night, driving home the new 6MT I just purchased. This car is bone stock, unlike my AT. Compared to my AT, I have to say that the factory suspension feels...sloppy. At best. At highway speeds, the front end felt floaty and unstable. Going around corners, I seriously felt like the car was going to tip over, and the back end felt like it wanted to bounce around without the RSB.

 

Wow, some good advice in here.

Someone was asking about the spacers with a FSTB. Worst case scenerio, just grind down the two tabs that are rubbing.

 

You need more frog.

 

Scroll up about four or five posts.

 

I know, I saw that. Can't believe you trolled through my photo album for that.

Funny guy.

 

Troop, if you *do* decide to forgo all these ideas about power mods, these are the only two things you really need for suspension mods on our cars:

1. Coilovers
2. Rear Sway Bar

Everything else is just a minor add, or will significantly increase NVH.

 

Add a stage 1 LTB to that. I've heard those things do wonders for tying the bottom of our front ends together. Although it is at the cost of some ground clearance. But if you don't plan on dropping the car more than an inch or so, there shouldn't be any issues.

 

IMO: With my experience with older gen Maxima's and what I've learned about the 5/5.5 gens, I'd further confirm what others have said (Like OP, I do a lot of highway/interstate driving.) so my recommendations for mid-range performance would be:

NWP spacers, 2* Timing advance (to 17*), SRI w/resonator, and an Underdrive pulley. That should fetch you some nice usable power in the band you're looking for.

Not sure how concerned OP is with suspension...but I definatley recommend the sub-frame collars if you do nothing else to the suspension.

 

Troop from your description & your percieved priorities you will really get a much better bang for buck with suspension mods vs perfromance.
Like others said the engine power stock is above average, and the suspension department is below average stock, so its just has sooo much more room for improvement.

+1 I will have to repectfully disagree with Rochester with the RSB and C/Os and say LTB I or II and C/Os would be the essential 2. If i had to choose between 2 handling mods LTB vs RSB the LTB would be my pick by far. The LTB completely changed my car almost as much lowering it in general IMO.
+8

 

I too have a daily 80 mile commute. I had the full Cattman Exhaust (y-pipe to muffler), but the drone really was annoying. I replaced the muffler with a Walker Quiet Flo and it has a nice burrble w/o the drone. MY Max is mildly modded, but favorite mod is the suspension. I plan on doing the NWP spacers in the spring.

 

I think the OP is going to be spending at least 20 minutes figure out what all these crazy acronyms are.

Someone should sticky an acronym list.

 

wait hes no doing the GTL thing?

GFF represent

good luck with what path you take though Troop. Let us know what you do.

 

WTF?

See, now that's an acronym I understand.

 

spacers + the rare Cattman Titanium FSTB do rub, it took exactly 1 washer on each strut mount bolt (6 total) to alleviate the problem. This is on an auto btw, the 6MTs motors sit lower so I believe they dont need to worry about this.

 

Is the OP DTF?

No homo.

 

The ES bushings also lower the engine a bit... or so goes the urban myth. Either way, I've still got over a 1/4" clearance to my FSTB, and that's with spacers and no washers under the FSTB brackets.

I was overly concerned about this last year. Turned out to be a non-issue.

 

Sorry for the delayed response, I've been busy most of the day with that 'work' thing.

Rochester, this is my first 5th gen Max so yes, I sort of wanted to whip it into shape quickly so I've been scavenging the forum for the last 3 weeks. Mine was owned by an older couple who had only driven it about 4000 miles per year since 2006, and it was bone stock. No tint, no mods of any kind.

I'm pretty familiar with 4th gen cars, and I loved my Altima right up to the day it was destroyed by a moron driver.

I've done the Progress RSB, and I really like the results.

Not sure what else I would do to the suspension since I'm on the freeway 95% of my driving. Definitely do not want to lower the car, c'mon, I'm 50 years old...

I got most of the acronyms except the 'Stage 1 LTB' huh?

One thing I've been thinking of doing is just replacing the stock muffler with a Flomax 40, just so I could hear the car shift. It is strange having a manual shift and not hearing any exhaust at all.

 

You're preaching to the choir on that. First solid laugh all day. No... second.

But still funny.

Apply some researching efforts into a custom weld job with a Borla muffler.

 

Nobody wants to lower their car anymore.

My ride is very comfortable.

 

Here's another thought...

Instead of modifying your suspension, refresh it. Get new tie-rod ends, FSB end-links, FSB frame bushings, ball-joints, and those clever little sub-frame collars. None of that is going to make your tired old struts any better, but the whole thing will still feel more buttoned down.

 

OP, I dont think Borla mufflers are cheap so buying a used Cattman 2.5" might be the best bang for the buck. Don't forget that with the stock exhaust manfiolds in place, even my cattamn 3" isnt "LOUD".

Also, you may want to keep the stock springs and just replace you stock struts with illumina's.

 

Since phenolic spacers seem to be a popular mod, I'm curious about one thing.
If you have them and you need to remove your intake manifold again (say, to change your plugs), what do you do, scrape all the old RTV off and apply it again when you reinstall the manifolds?

Hard to believe that such a simple and inexpensive mod would make the kind of difference the dyno charts show. You'd think the mfg's would run A/C coolant through the manifold to keep incoming air chilled for better performance.

 

Not really, it's best to just purchase from Aaron. That way you have all the correct hardware that is separated out and easy to identify in the instructions.

Depends on which FSTB you have. IIRC the Racingline one is designed with the spacers in mind. All the others I have seen you will have to shim the bar up some to keep it from hitting the UIM. Personally I have one washer on each of the outer strut bolts and 2 on the inboard bolts. It cleared at one but tapped at full throttle.

No not at all. In fact you are instructions to remove that bracket since it no longer fits.


Also to the OP consider a lightweight/underdrive pulley. From what I have read on here that's another high return mod.

 

I remember giving serious consideration to these spacers last year. Forgot how much money I spent because of the cracked VC at the time. But no regrets. None at all.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...p-spacers.html