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Replace driver side axle on 6MT

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #1  
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Replace driver side axle on 6MT

Hi,

I need to change the driver side axle on my 6MT Maxima and am thinking about doing it myself to save a few $.

- Is there any writeup with pictures on how to do it?
- Will the transmission fluid drain out of the transmission when I pull the axle out?
- How many hours of work will it take me to do the job?

Thanks!
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #2  
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I'm not aware of any write-up, per se, but the drivers side is the easier of the two.

You're gonna need to start with loosening the big nut holding the cv axle through the hub. An impact works great, that's how I did mine. I've heard of other members using a friend to hold the brakes after you remove the wheel, while you jump on a breaker bar. I think you might also be able to get a socket on it right through your center cap. Leave the car on the ground and set the e-brake, if you can, and then wail away on the breaker bar. If it's just you doing the job, that's they way I'd try first, if you don't have access to an impact.

Once the axle nut is removed, jack the front end of the car up, both sides. I think the swaybar won't allow for enough "droop" on that corner, if you don't let both sides hang. Remove your ABS sensor from the hub, careful, it's plastic and brittle and likely rusted in there pretty good.

Loosen your tie rod end, leave the nut threaded on top to protect your threads for what you're about to do. You'll need a BFH here. Give the knuckle a few "love taps", until you notice the tie rod end pop up. After that, take the nut completely off and take the tie rod out of the knuckle.

Remove the top two strut bolts, and get ready to catch, cause your caliper and hub and rotor and all, will fall, at this point. Let the lower control arm and ball joint hold it while you turn it all the way towards the front of the car. This gives you the most room to push the CV axle out of the hub. Some Twister/WD40 whatever, might help the splines let loose.

Once you've got the cv axle out, you should be able to "pop" it out of the trans, with a good tug or two. It's just held in with a simple C-ring, the new one will show you what I'm talking about, if you're not sure.

You should lose a little gear oil, since the nose of the car is elevated. If you can lift the car level, it's minimized. You should be able to quickly stab the new one in, tho, so have it handy.

Re-install is pretty much the opposite, but take care to not allow the cv axle to push your brake rotor backing plate/heat shield into your rotor, or you'll be searching the forums for "screeching from front brakes" AMHIK

It'll take a little lining up, to get the cv axle back through the hub, but once it's in, go ahead and re-hang the hub on the strut bolts, re-attach your tie rod end and ABS sensor, and that's really it. Re-torque everything, or just pull with everything you've got, you can't really overtighten, and don't forget the CV axle nut.

Top off your gear oil, and get your alignment checked, it may need adjustment, maybe. All in all, def. not something I'd pay someone else to do, it's super easy. Hope this helps,
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:25 PM
  #3  
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Ok, just had to replace a clutch and do some other work on my 02 6spd. With the stock 17" rims there is no way to loosen the spindle nut through the wheel. You'll have to figure something else out. Here are the steps I followed once it was up in the air:

1 Take off caliper with pads and suspend the assembly to the spring with a zip tie or something so that it isn't putting strain on the brake hose.
2 Take off the caliper bracket.
3 Take the rotor off.
4 Take off the speed sensor (after you take out the retaining bolt, gently twist it back and forth a little until is pulls out) and hang it somewhere out of the way so it is not damaged.
5 Remove the two lower strut bolts.
6 Proceed to take the axle out of the spindle* then remove it from the transmission by gently prying being careful not to damage boots or anything else.


*My method to remove the axle from the spindle was to first turn the wheel all the way to the left. Remove the spindle nut(I did this alone without an impact wrench, but if you've got one use it). Then loosen the axle in the spindle by a few blows with a rubber mallet on a piece of wood held up against the end of the axle. Once the spindle is loose press down and out on the knuckle while pulling the axle with the cv joint at an angle. Done. No need to remove ball joint or tie rods. Word of caution: follow the FSM suggestion to wrap your boots with a towel or heavy rag so that it isn't damaged if it rubs against sharp metal.

Edit: Another note: I forgot to drain the tranny first. I lost no fluid after pulling both axles. My 5spd would have dumped it everywhere.

Last edited by nelledge; Nov 5, 2010 at 03:30 PM.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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if you dont have access to a gun, and dont have a friend to stand on the breaks, or the axle is still moving you can put the spare on and put the car on the floor. your axle nut socket will fit through the spare wheel and you dont have to worry about the axle spinning.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by QNO_A32
if you dont have access to a gun, and dont have a friend to stand on the breaks, or the axle is still moving you can put the spare on and put the car on the floor. your axle nut socket will fit through the spare wheel and you dont have to worry about the axle spinning.
Good idea! I didn't even think of using the spare. Next time.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 09:07 PM
  #6  
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Thanks for the tips! The .org rocks!
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 05:58 AM
  #7  
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From: windsor ct,
my ? is where would u find a passenger side axle for a 5.5 gen 6speed
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