RLW001

iTrader: (11)

When I got home from work I noticed the smell of anti-freeze, I popped the hood and could see a small amount had leaked. At 105K I am not surprised by this, so I am planning on replacing the radiator, lower and upper hoses. Is there anything else I should replace at this time? T-Stat? Waterpump? I just don't want to stuck on the road somewhere later.

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

I'm also overdue for a radiator replacement, I've been putting it off, trying to minimize the weeping by shoving BARS in there, but it's something I'll be doing this time next saturday. Mine survived 155k, a little longer than yours, but I feel the same way, I'd expect it to fail by now.

If you haven't found it yet, amazon.com has a radiator for our cars for $89 shipped, which, imho, is a crazy good deal, that's the one I'm gonna buy.

I wouldn't worry about the water pump, two reasons: it's a big time PITA to replace, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it, the radiator failure does not have any effect on the water pump. If it starts weeping at some point down the road, well, do it then, but at 105k, it should still be fine.

Go ahead and get a new cap and Tstat, but don't just settle for the upper and lower radiator hoses. If you're concerned about hoses, there are quite a few more to the coolant system than just those two. I'd take this opportunity to cap off and bypass the coolant lines through the throttle body, they're pointless and just another potential point of failure.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

First time I've ever heard that, would you please expound on that statement?

zero2sixtyZ

iTrader: (30)

Honestly, get the Koyo radiator in the GB section. Supposedly stronger, and I'm on my second OEM radiator which sprouted the same leaks. FML. I'd replace the T-Stat and any hoses that look worn.

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

Sure, Troop. If you look at your throttle body, you'll notice two approx. 1/4" hoses connecting to it. They're there to circulate coolant through the throttle body, for those of us using our cars on episodes of "Ice Road Truckers"

Seriously, Nissan designed this feature, apparently, to prevent the throttle body freezing or sticking the throttle plate, in extreme cold. You and I living where we do, have no use for this feature, it actually hurts engine performance by heating the throttle body moreso than it would be just in ambient conditions, which of course heats the aircharge passing through it.

Also, from what I've read, there are plenty of org'ers living north of the mason-dixon that have also bypassed their TB coolant lines and never had any issues with driveability despite crazy cold temps. So, eliminate a potential cause of failure by capping those lines and removing 'em. Trace them back to where they tie into the cars' coolant system and cap 'em right there.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. Don't want to hijack the thread, but have many of you guys done a TB bypass?

J-Rod

iTrader: (1)

Just curious why at 105,00 miles you are suprized the radiator is leaking or suprized it lasted this long?

I'm at 122,xxx miles and I'm not concerned one bit why mine, and/or surprized it has made it this long. Just wondering...

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

J-rod, I fault the plastic endtanks, top and bottom. The plastic begins to crack, and the clamped seal between the tank and the core weakens as the plastic begins to deteriorate. An all steel radiator, assuming you flush your coolant as called for, should last a lifetime.

But every plastic end tank radiator I'm familiar with, and not just in automotive applications, but equipment as well, fail after so many heat cycles or with age. That's why OP and I aren't surprised our radiators have failed.

But as always, YMMV, buyer beware, this offer not available in stores, etc...

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Yep, Nissan plastic-tank radiators have a lifespan of about 11 or 12 years from what I can gather. I've replaced a couple of them that get hairline cracks in the top of the tank.

J-Rod

iTrader: (1)

Well it being plastic does make sense..... we are a throw away society. I hate that we don't have things that, if taken car of, last as long as you want.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

I think a lot of it has to do with temperature changes. If you live in a cold climate the extremes are greater, and the daily stretching/shrinking of the plastic affects its lifespan.

J-Rod

iTrader: (1)

good point... maybe I can get away with more here since I'm in Texas and 90% of the time the difference in operating temp and temp outside doesn't differ by a hell of a whole lot.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure if your immune. I just had to replace my 4th gen(180k) radiator about two months ago from a hairline crack. And Thursday, I replaced my 5th gen(116k) radiator for the same reason. 40 degree mornings and exposure to almost 200 degrees once the t-stat opens can expose any stress riser in aged plastic. One observation I did make: both cracks ran along the raised portion of the plastic tank which has the Nissan stamp. Koyo, thank goodness, has no geometrical discontinuity in this area.

Froggmann

iTrader: (6)

Yes, it's a minor difference. It's also part of the NWP Intake spacer kit. (Referencing your posts in the other thread)

Steel/all-metal radiators really won't last longer. The front end of a modern day vehicle tends to move around a lot and will cause them to fail due to vibration. Plus who knows what the factory style coolant will do to a brass/copper (Standard metal used in all-metal radiators) radiator since it's designed for aluminum.

OP just get yourself a good quality radiator and call it a day. As for the coolant hoses, inspect them for cracks and make sure they haven't hardened or gone squishy. If you feel the hose crackle when you squeeze it go ahead and replace it even if the rubber is good. The crackling is the nylon lines inside the hose failing. I would also go ahead and replace the thermostat with another factory one. Especially since that is one part that has the capability of fing up your entire month.

RLW001

iTrader: (11)

Ordered a Koyo Rad, Gates hoses, radiator cap, t-stat all for $175 delivered.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You paid more than if you had gotten a flea bay special, but this is a case of you get what you pay for. Pay cheap - get cheap.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

That's actually a pretty good price considering if you went to Autozone the hoses alone will be almost 20 bucks each and the Tstat will be 15 or 16 bucks.

Not bad at all.

RLW001

iTrader: (11)

I don't understand your comment? Both Koyo and Gates make good products.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

I think he was saying that you paid more and got a better quality product than if you had gone the ebay route. It's a good thing...

Amave

i'd like to know where you got this package so i can too

RLW001

iTrader: (11)

PM Sent.

RLW001

iTrader: (11)

Ordered on Sat. Deliveried on Tues.

Checkout DriveWire.com and AutoParts123.com (save addl 10% enter TURKEY as discount code).

Amave

man you got some awsome prices!

i used drivewire.com before so i'm not shocked you got a good deal with free shipping also

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

RLW: you rock, man, thanks for the websites and discount code

I just ordered my new radiator, $67 DELIVERED!!

Can't beat that, thanks again

vastmax

iTrader: (18)

Buy it from Advance Auto, here's the current codes:

$15 BIG5 - ($5 off $15 or more) 33%
$25 BIG10 - ($10 off $25 or more) 40%
$50 A123 - ($20 off $50 or more) 40%
$75 BIG30 - ($30 off orders over $75) 40%
$100 BIG40 - ($40 off orders over $100)40%
$200 BIG50 - ($50 off orders over $200)25%
ANY P20 - (20% off all orders - no minimum)20%

Also, take note there is a 1" core radiator available for the 4th gen. With slight modding it will fit in a 5th gen which comes with a 5/8" core stock. A dremel to take off some of the fan shroud plastic and youre good to go.

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

Radiator just arrived, looks good, I'll be putting it in this evening.

$67 delivered from autoparts123.com, thanks again RLW (where's the "raise a beer" smilie? )

Intrepid1

When looking into radiator replacements - I also noticed "radiator supports" listed for about 100.00.


Is this necessary? Looks like a backbone to mount the radiator.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Only if yours is rusted out, and the lower one is a major chore to repair, requires welding.

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for reminding me about this thread, I wanted to share some perhaps useful info:

The other day a couple of local Org'ers came by, and of course we got to popping hoods and what-not, and one of 'em immediately goes "you replace your radiator?" (they must not follow my posts on here ) and I says "yeah, why?" "well man, it's noticeably thicker than OEM" hmmm, ok, if you say so, but we look at his factory rad and sure enough, the core and tanks on the one I got is thicker. I must not have paid any attention when I was swapping 'em.

So anyway, that was a surprising upgrade to note. It's the PN 2329 radiator on autoparts123.com that I received, btw.