2002 maxima 6 speed.140000 miles. I have been having a slight slight mis fire at idle that turned to a heavier mis fire at idle as well as slight mis fire randomly during load. It started getting pretty bad so I figured I would start with the old prob tired mas. I replaced it with the updated 2001 maf and soldered on the old iat sensor. reset the ecu started her up and mis fire at idle was gone completly. I then started my 400 mile trip and when done with that the issues were exactly the same as before. The only think that is diff at this time is the mpg. I was avg about 18.5 and I am now around 23.5 The car does eat oil thru the pcv. I have a home depot catch can that I empty at ever gas fill up. It doesnt appear to be oil in there anymore mostly water now adays. 10k miles ago I replaced the plugs and valve covers. Facing towards t he engine from the front of the car I had a lot of oil in plug to the rear right. I figured it was the valve cover and should be fixed now. I also installed the intake spacers and viass block plate at the same time as the tune up. The best way to describe the issue is intermittant slowness. At times off the line it bogs down and comes to life after 4k. other times its fine and after coasting for a bit if I try to accelerate from any gear its like hitting a wall and missing to the point where it jerks the car slightly from 2k to about 4k. I also used to be able to pass people on the highway staying in 6th gear. That is no longer possible I have to shift into 5th or sometimes 4th to get moving. I honestly feel like my 93 altima will keep up with it on the highway. I understand it may the coils or oil again or knock sensor. I have and never had any cel. Could it be the cats? also am I correct that the cel should pop with the amount of mis fire I have? So would this indicate the sensor is bad and not detecting ping at all? Would this most likely fix my issue or just at that point detect my issue? Any body have any other ideas or best place to start? I wanna take it all off and test but it is cold outside and I am trying to spend the least amount of time possible under the hood. Thank you in advance. I did search btw I just wanted to post my specific case to see if anyone could offer adivce.

 

ttt

Also did some searching with no good results. Anyone can recommend a good obd2 usb scanner and software for a good price that will do all the data logging one would need.

 

I have had a very similar issue with 03 automatic, back in the summer I had the plugs changed as well as the rear valve cover, found a very similar to most oil in number 5 chamber. We also had installed NWP spacers and the car ran like a top for over two weeks ( I had already done the VIAS delete) several months earlier. Then everything went to hell in a hens basket, I started the car up one morning and off went the SES light and I was getting ping and huge engine knocking, the code was P0300 which is for multi misfiring. I have done several oil changes every 3,000 km and used seafoam just before each oil change as well as a number of times used seafoam in the gas tank as well as sucking it up through the master hose to clean the upper intake area of the IM. The car suffered the same lose of power and general ran like crap with some flirting moments of running like a top, and yet the only code I kept getting was the P0300. Well after a number of weeks of trying to cleanup the inside of the engine it finally started to run well once again and the ping and knock was gone. Some have suggested the crank position sensor or possibly the cam sensors require replacing, but everything I have read has suggested hard starting or the engine stalling is the results of these sensors failing ( I don't have starting or stalling issues) and have not seen any codes which would suggest replacement of these sensors, so I have held off replacing them. I have been able to reset the error code for about a two week spread each time but it soon returns along with all the engine knock, however the car once the drive gear is engaged perform very well and it is only at idle or while in park that I get the engine knock, so like you I am frustrated one week everything runs great and then I get a week or two of crap, and have only ever seen the P0300 code. My next step is to take some of the advise given and start with the sensor replacements, I am just puzzle as to why I don't get any code that suggest they are failing.

 

THank you. I wish I got a code so I knew what to start looking at. Maybe a real time data logger would help me before I start throwing parts at an issue. No suggestions for a decent laptop scanner and software? Anyone?

 

I would look into the ECU tolerances you may have made yourself more trouble by doing that. It sounds like the car learned w the changes and doesnt like it

 

Would'nt an ecu reset start my learning again? If not what should I be doing? I screwed myself by putting in a new maf? I know its likely but how likely is it that my new 2k1 maf is faulty?

 

I have just ordered obd pro usb scan tool. I figured invest now on it because Im sure I will use it much. Also I can most likely pin point the issue this time around. I am open to ideas.

 

Last week I had the P0300 code with a lot of hesitation and knocking. It ended up being a bad coil in cylinder #3 (in the back)

I ordered my coils from DAVEB and changed them using these instructions.
http://greghome.com/Greg%27s%20Garag...eplacement.htm


There's also a USB OBDII scanner that will tell you if any of your cylinders are off. http://www.blazt.biz/products/obdii.php

 

Try mass air flow sensor.

 

Just did the maf issue happening before and after the oem 2k1 maf swap. but after the car worked amazing for about 1 gas tanks worth.

 

I have done the ecu reset but do I need to keep my battery unplugged for 20 min to reset fuel trim? And does this seem as a possibility as a reason for my issue? so odd that replacing the maf gained me 5mpg but the issue of mis fire at idle and load with heavy hesitation at time is still there.

 

That's exactly what was happening to my max. I had a lot of hesitation and lots of studder at idle and driving. Also while driving the SES light would flash.

You could take it to Nissan and have them hook it up to their computer to diagnose the problem but that will probably run you about $100. You can also wait to see if you have any luck with the OBDII scanner. This software may work with the cable as well. http://www.blazt.biz/downloads/NDS_II_1_4.zip

 

Thank you for the reply. I will try the software. My question is with this huge hesitation I feel and I get no flashing cel or cel at all or ghost codes. Should I be concerned of the knock sensor not working at all? Or maybe something else that may appear as a user input such as tps. I am at a lost here. Im used to ts my 93 altima lol. I understand it can be so many things and I am prepared to ts this all. Just wish I had something more concrete to tackle first such as a cel coming on telling something so I can look into that.

 

I definitely understand. It can be very costly to start changing sensors and coils and still not solve the problem.

I ended up taking the max the auto shop that I always go to for them to diagnose the problem. They charged $65 for the computer hookup and another $65 for diagnostics (testing sensors, coils, etc..) That is how they found my problem with coil # 3.

Best of luck

 

I am having a very similar issue with my 01 AE. Slight misfire/shake at random times but no SES light. I also noticed while accelerating in drive it sounds like a vacuum leak (suction of air) under the hood, but in park it does not make the vacuum suction sound. I am wondering if perhaps it's the MAF starting to go bad but not bad enough to throw a code. The only recent code I had was P0420 but it comes and goes about months apart, I end up just putting Seafoam in the tank, clearing the code and it stays off for months at a time. I don't think the p0420 would cause the car to feel like a misfire. I only notice the slight miss/vibration when coming to a complete stop in drive at a traffic light or stop sign, but it is random and not all the time. I just don't want to be the victim of trial and error just to come to find out it could be a simple repair. I will keep checking in on this post for assistance as well. Sorry I could not provide any help other than I am experiencing the same symptoms!

Good luck to us!

 

Yes good luck to us. I am waiting on my obd scanner before replacing parts.

 

NismoAce I am on the same page as you. I have an obd2 though and plugged it in just to see what it read, mind you I had no CEL light on at all but after hooking up the scanner it read P0174 pending. I'm like great because this can be a few things: air intake leak, o2, exhaust leak, fuel pressure, injectors, MAF. When I accelerate in Drive it sounds like an air intake leak but right around the MAF. I'm hoping it's just a simple replacement of the MAF as I have read on here others that posted with p0174 have ended up replacing the MAF and everything was good to go. This would be my 2nd MAF in 130,000 miles (1st one replaced at about 50k or 60k I believe). Well I figured I would post this and if your scanner is giving the same pending code, then at least we have a starting point. GL again!

 

I did check for pending codes and nada. I also did the fuel trim reset. my two batteries disconnected for 3 hours and after about 20 miles it started acting up again. The car always misses at idle now and about half the time when accelerating. Awaiting the scanner to view my sensors in real time to see if anything seems off. I will also try the software rocketmax recommended.

 

Update after reseting the fuel trim the mis fire is a lot less but still there. Right now my gas millage is at 15.5 and the car has some more pick up. But the issue is still there at idle and under load. Waiting on obd scanner to see if I can pick up on anything odd. I have a feeling the issue will remain slightly there making it difficult to trouble shoot

 

NismoAce, Just wanted to update you on my similar issue. I was getting a pending P0171 and P0171, so assumed it was maf. Called Dave B yesterday and ordered up maf! I was just messing around under the hood and noticed the clamp at the end of the maf was not tight and I was able to move the ring clamp around the rubber tubing. So I tightened that up let it idle for about 15 minutes and have not noticed any rough idle since. I still have to put a load on it and take it for a ride though. Will probably be doing that later on tonight. I'm hoping that is all it was, just a loose clamp. Still awaiting to receive the new maf which should be here in the next day or 2, but if all goes well with just the tightening of the clamp, then I will just have a spare new maf for backup! For what it's worth, maybe just try tightening the clamps on the air intake tubing. Worth a shot!

Good luck again!

 

got my scanner in and briefly played with it. I am going to try the software rocketmax mentioned. the software it came with appears very limited and I want to get down to the botom of this. I have attached a picture of after it was disconnected. Does anything seem odd to anyone? The image was taken after the unit was disconnected at idle.

 

I dont think this is going to work for me. I tried with no luck and the website says it only works with blatz 2. Anything else that may work for me?

 

The load value should NOT be 100 at idle. Your long term fuel trims are slightly high. They should be under 10. Your current MAF reading looks similar to mine (0.5 lb/min is about 3.7 gm/sec) at idle. Your scanner readings have miss matched units. For example, ECT is shown in *F but the range looks like it was calculated in *C. The MAF sensor reading min/max/avg seems to out of place even if they were given in gm/sec. That 172.17 number is a suspect one. If you want to start part replacement, that would be the first item to go for.

Try to get more readings e.g. say at 2000 rpm (keep it there for 30 seconds and take a snapshot). Similar take few snapshots at highway speed etc.

 

I will do some logging tomorrow on my way to work and post up notes.

My car is a little rough at idle, and hesitates like a cracked out cowgirl. I have a P0300 only if the car sits at idle for a long time. I used to get it more often, but I discovered a PCV leak in my oil catch can setup and since then have fix it.

No cyl specific codes, running 03 AM600 MAF. Might test with a 2001 MAF I have.
I did get a random B2S2 O2 sensor code the other day, still wondering if related.

 

I have posted a couple threads on an intermittent misfire at idle.

It definitely seems like a minor issue compared to what you are going through.

WHAT A PAIN.

It seems these cars have multiple issues that tend to crop up and can be difficult and VERY, VERY costly and time consuming to even identify, let alone fix.

Damn, I wish my 1996 4th gen had not gotten wrecked.

God bless, and good luck.

 

Thank you guys. That snapshot unfortunatly was once the car was turned off. So it the values are odd like the load. Today I will be running it some more with some more snap shots. Diff software maybe as well. Anybody able to get Nissan datascan 2 to work with an elm obd reader? That software looks like it would do the trick. I am open to any ideas. Funny to mention the oil catch. I do have a home depot oil catch and I could check that for leaks. It fills up with mostly water looking crap nowadays. When I first put it in it was always thick oil. Now the consistancy is just like water. It is way to cold to working on the car

 

Quickly undo the two clamps and put the stock hose back on. Try it for a few days and report back. I noticed a huge difference in how often that light showed up.

 

Sounds like a great idea. Hopefully I can find it

 

Hopefully experts can look at these pics and help me out.


toying with other app. This one has the correct units.

 

cold start idle

 

almost warmed

 

warmed up

 

warm 2k no load

 

warm 3k no load

 

wark 4k no load

 

i took video of the app while running for a drive but the video file is over 400 meg so I will have to convert it to get it on youtube for u guys to help me out. Please help.

What should I look at to figure out whats going on with the fuel trim being a lil high? right now im sitting at about 18.5 mpg

 

I had the same problem on my 03 6 speed. Replaced all the igntion coils,spark plugs, and the front and rear valve covers. Problem solved and no more misfires. Car also runs like new. Bad coils cause the mis fire. You can find the bad one but it makes sense to replace them all. OE one are 80.00 each but you can find aftermarket ones cheaper. I keep OE ones....

 

Thanks for the info. Trying to avoid replacing all if it is coils. If I do have to replace them then I will be going oe.

 

Please HELPPPPPPP. anyone able to interpret these?

 

sorry i cant interpret all those detailed charts, but best of luck, you are puttin the time in hopefully u find the solution, and not attempt last resort of a costly oe coil swap,
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-idle-rpm.html
i have had idle issues at start up, don't know if its thats too similar could be totally different issue.

boondoxmax how much was this repair, how many miles do you have? it seems like doing all that would definately fix many problems