5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #81  
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How much of that brown muck (water/oil mixture) in your catch can is actually oil? I'll bet it's mostly water that has condensed out of the air. Instead of the water vapor in the air in your crankcase vent hose/s entering the camshaft cover areas (and crankcase) and then getting pulled into the intake via the PCV valve (when there is sufficient vacuum), or when there is too much breather (air, suspended fine oil droplets, water vapor and combustion gases) and/or during periods of low vacuum (when you romp on it), the breather vapors get dumped into the intake upstream of the TB via the crankcase vent hose and your catch can, the water vapor condenses into liquid water because your catchcan is relatively cool (no internal engine heat). A catch can that's installed in the PCV valve hose would do the same thing. The cooler weather and/or higher humidity conditions I suspect could be the reason you are seeing more water. It'll vary.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
How much of that brown muck (water/oil mixture) in your catch can is actually oil? I'll bet it's mostly water that has condensed out of the air. Instead of the water vapor in the air in your crankcase vent hose/s entering the camshaft cover areas (and crankcase) and then getting pulled into the intake via the PCV valve (when there is sufficient vacuum), or when there is too much breather (air, suspended fine oil droplets, water vapor and combustion gases) and/or during periods of low vacuum (when you romp on it), the breather vapors get dumped into the intake upstream of the TB via the crankcase vent hose and your catch can, the water vapor condenses into liquid water because your catchcan is relatively cool (no internal engine heat). A catch can that's installed in the PCV valve hose would do the same thing. The cooler weather and/or higher humidity conditions I suspect could be the reason you are seeing more water. It'll vary.

The catch can is installed on the pcv line. And for the last few months all the catch has been catching is water. It appears to be no oil at all. The muck is from when it used to catch oil. I get what your saying about condensation and such but this is a lot of water. It does have a slight fuel smell to it as well. I am considering blocking of pcv on the intake and venting the valve covers with filters. Or if it helps at all only connecting one of the valve covers as the pcv system and vent the other with filters.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #83  
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It's a fact of life......air contains water which is also a constituant of the breather vapors that are being removed one way or the other and being injested by the engine as I explained above. Combustion gases (the blowby) is what is causing the "gas" smell......it's normal. The moisture in the air/breather vapors is why you are better to fully warm up an engine to full operating temp and driving it long enough to "vaporize" liquid water that has condensed in the camshaft cover and crankcase areas and in the oil. If you want to cause corrosion in an engine just drive short distances and for short distances all the time. Leave the PCV system intact.....it actually helps to ventilate the internal engine areas better, than without it. Believe me......my first two cars were pre 1963 cars (before the PCV systems were used.......the system was a "draft" system) and that brown muck that you see in the bowl of your catch can is what we would find in the rocker arm areas and above the oil "tide" line of the oil pan of the engines in those days. Engines these days are actually very clean internally and one reason is the PCV system. Crankcase vapors are also "filthy" from an environmental point of view.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:51 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
It's a fact of life......air contains water which is also a constituant of the breather vapors that are being removed one way or the other and being injested by the engine as I explained above. Combustion gases (the blowby) is what is causing the "gas" smell......it's normal. The moisture in the air/breather vapors is why you are better to fully warm up an engine to full operating temp and driving it long enough to "vaporize" liquid water that has condensed in the camshaft cover and crankcase areas and in the oil. If you want to cause corrosion in an engine just drive short distances and for short distances all the time. Leave the PCV system intact.....it actually helps to ventilate the internal engine areas better, than without it. Believe me......my first two cars were pre 1963 cars (before the PCV systems were used.......the system was a "draft" system) and that brown muck that you see in the bowl of your catch can is what we would find in the rocker arm areas and above the oil "tide" line of the oil pan of the engines in those days. Engines these days are actually very clean internally and one reason is the PCV system. Crankcase vapors are also "filthy" from an environmental point of view.
I get what you mean but with the amount of liquid I am sucking up would I be better deleting the pcv system? I drove 2 miles and sucked up enough to fill half the oil catch. Whos to say what made it by the oil catch. I dont want to continue to introduce this crap into my intake manifold and combustion chamber. We all know oil lowers the octane rating.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #85  
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After rereading your whole thread you should not do anything else until you address the root cause of the misfire issue. Do not disconnect the battery again, and give the system lots of time for the relearn. It can also take time/driving cycles for the system to detect and set codes including the cylinder code for a misfire. It may yet still prove to be a duff coil, for example. When troubleshooting a problem it is also best to accomplish one "fix" at a time.
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
After rereading your whole thread you should not do anything else until you address the root cause of the misfire issue. Do not disconnect the battery again, and give the system lots of time for the relearn. It can also take time/driving cycles for the system to detect and set codes including the cylinder code for a misfire. It may yet still prove to be a duff coil, for example. When troubleshooting a problem it is also best to accomplish one "fix" at a time.

I hear you. Been about 1500 miles since last reset if not more. Issue is still there. Goes and comes and the car did pop the p0300 code when it was at the dealership. I plan on just install the header and see what happens and go from there.
Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:09 AM
  #87  
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Update

Still didnt get the headers. Still planning on it. Did get codes for evap valve. Dave b hooked it up. Did test from fellow orger for the coils and all so far seem fine. ordered new coil insulators to see if poor insulation is posing and issue.

I took out my oil catch and the car is wayyy better but not perfect. Codes have no come back but the issue still comes up from time to time. Not as much. I think the oil sitting in my catch would get sucked up in large amount into the intake going into the rear chamber first because its easier flow and it would fubar things throwing my af ratio off. So far with it in stock form my af is sitting at around 5 or so for both banks.

I still plan on headers as well as plugs and the insulators and check on a bunch of things and if there is still an issue I am searching for an 06 vq.

I am so nervous of picking up a quest or such motor. I dont want to find out later I screwed myself cuz nissan might have did something diff. I want my maxima speed backkkkk,
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