Emergency brake line stuck?
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
Emergency brake line stuck?
Over the weekend I (And it was pretty cold), I went and drove my car down the block, about 2 miles. I got out and went in a friends house for about 3 hours. When I came back and released the emergency brake I noticed that the car felt sluggish.
I checked on a hill and sure enough the rear passenger brake was stuck.
I went ahead and drove home and when I got home I hoped out and looked at it, it was hot red. I fiddled with the E-handle a few times and finally it felt like it released.
Next morning I got up and drove Mom to the airport, everything was fine, I went and slept for about an hour, came back out and SAME thing, passenger brake was stuck.
So I jacked it up real quick and with some tools unhooked the manual pull emergency brake line from the caliper.
Everything is fine now only I don't have any emergency brakes and need to get this fixed.
Any of you have any ideas on what is causing just ONE side of the emergency brake lines to seize up? Old cable? Needs lube? Etc?
Thoughts? Ideas? Or more perferrably...Experience with this?
I checked on a hill and sure enough the rear passenger brake was stuck.
I went ahead and drove home and when I got home I hoped out and looked at it, it was hot red. I fiddled with the E-handle a few times and finally it felt like it released.
Next morning I got up and drove Mom to the airport, everything was fine, I went and slept for about an hour, came back out and SAME thing, passenger brake was stuck.
So I jacked it up real quick and with some tools unhooked the manual pull emergency brake line from the caliper.
Everything is fine now only I don't have any emergency brakes and need to get this fixed.
Any of you have any ideas on what is causing just ONE side of the emergency brake lines to seize up? Old cable? Needs lube? Etc?
Thoughts? Ideas? Or more perferrably...Experience with this?
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
That sounds like an odd conclusion, specifically because the brakes themselves are working fine. I tested by going in reverse quickly and hammering on the brakes, the rear brakes work exactly as they are suppose too, and when it was locked it wasn't locked HARD, just squeezing rotor just a little to make it hot and difficult to turn.
And the seizure went away once I disconnected the e-brake cable.
I just had a mechanic check and lube the e-brake cable, he said it was fine. Only thing I can think of is a faulty caliper.
The thing is, it doesn't STAY locked up, just weird.
I doubt it is the calipers, I think you have the cable hung up on something. Our rear brakes are drum style that sit inside of the regular disk and have a life of their own. Could be you have some crud in there that is hanging up the shoe against the drum.
Seems like I have also read on a different forum that there is a common problem with the equalizer yoke that connects the right and left e-brakes, causing one to grab.
Seems like I have also read on a different forum that there is a common problem with the equalizer yoke that connects the right and left e-brakes, causing one to grab.
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
Just picked it up from the mechanic. He said he checked out both lines, all were moving freely, he went ahead and lubed them and hooked the brake line back up. His thoughts are possibly a bad caliper as well.
Where is the equalizer yoke Trooplewis? Is it at the front of the vehicle or the back?
Where is the equalizer yoke Trooplewis? Is it at the front of the vehicle or the back?
I doubt it is the calipers, I think you have the cable hung up on something. Our rear brakes are drum style that sit inside of the regular disk and have a life of their own. Could be you have some crud in there that is hanging up the shoe against the drum.
Seems like I have also read on a different forum that there is a common problem with the equalizer yoke that connects the right and left e-brakes, causing one to grab.
Seems like I have also read on a different forum that there is a common problem with the equalizer yoke that connects the right and left e-brakes, causing one to grab.
Just picked it up from the mechanic. He said he checked out both lines, all were moving freely, he went ahead and lubed them and hooked the brake line back up. His thoughts are possibly a bad caliper as well.
Where is the equalizer yoke Trooplewis? Is it at the front of the vehicle or the back?
Where is the equalizer yoke Trooplewis? Is it at the front of the vehicle or the back?
And yes, my apologies; the ebrake is s drum-style brake that sits inside the rear disc brakes, so the rear calipers are not suspect if disconnecting the cable relieves the problem.
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Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
Above are the pictures of the caliper.
I do NOT believe that I have the "drum style" emergency brake that you guys are referring too.
The brake locked up again this morning for reasons unknown. It ONLY happens when the car is cold.
Now, I just put rear brakes on them about 3 months ago. Could I have gotten the piston out of round when I pushed it back in with the special tool?
The emergency brake line looks to be moving smoothly and doesn't appear to have any other problems. I don't know what else it could be. Could it be a bubble in the brake line?
I do NOT believe that I have the "drum style" emergency brake that you guys are referring too.
The brake locked up again this morning for reasons unknown. It ONLY happens when the car is cold.
Now, I just put rear brakes on them about 3 months ago. Could I have gotten the piston out of round when I pushed it back in with the special tool?
The emergency brake line looks to be moving smoothly and doesn't appear to have any other problems. I don't know what else it could be. Could it be a bubble in the brake line?
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17
From: Columbus, Ohio
I hesitate to mention this for fear of steering you the wrong way, but I once had a similar problem with the same style of caliper on a Mercury Sable. The ratchet in the caliper got stuck and cause all sorts of strange, hard to pinpoint problems (first pedal push would be to the floor, then fine until you let off for 30 seconds or more; very intermittant hard pedal and brake stuck on). You say you did brakes and pushed the piston in with the special tool that rotates the piston, but the actual ratchet for the parking brake portion of that caliper may be damaged, even if you did everything correctly. I WOULD recommend replacing the rubber hose that goes to the caliper at the same time as the caliper, it's cheap insurance for something important like brakes.
This is incorrect. Unlike both the newer maximas, and G35's our emergency brake is linked directly to our caliper piston. There is no such drum style on the rear of our cars. It is a common occurrence for our rear calipers to freeze up and drag the pads on the rotor surface.
+1 to the person who mentioned changing out both of your rear calipers. This will solve your problem. I actually just went through the same exact thing with my car not even a month ago.
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
I went ahead and replaced the one. It was a really simple process. That seems to have fixed the problem.
The mechanic who checked it out blasted the wheel on with a 200lb impact wrench. And he broke a stud off. What a BUFFOON. Then he claimed that it wasn't his doing.
The mechanic who checked it out blasted the wheel on with a 200lb impact wrench. And he broke a stud off. What a BUFFOON. Then he claimed that it wasn't his doing.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 511
From: South Jersey (Near Philly)
Any special process or did you just have someone push down on the pedal while you opened the bleeder until all the air was gone?
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
Flint, I followed these instructions and it was a breeze.
It helped the bleeding process I think to park the car with the front facing downhill.
It helped the bleeding process I think to park the car with the front facing downhill.
I just replaced my driver's side rear this past weekend...for the second time but that's another story. I got mine from AutoZone
First, CAREFULLY pinch off the brake fluid line oterwise you'll end up draining the entire master cylinder. I use vise grips and also a popsicle stick. I put a part of the stick on the top and part on the bottom of the rubber portion of the line and apply enough pressure to squeeze the line tsnug but not overly tight. You'll first have to loosen the bleeder valve (10MM) to relieve the pressure so you can squeeze the line.
Next remove the banjo coupling from the caliper (14MM IIRC). You will lose some fluid so be prepared to catch it in something. Move the line out of the way but it will still drip a little fluid for a short while.
Next I disconnected the e-brake from the caliper. I used a vise grip so I could push in to relieve the tension and wiggle the connector off.
Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place (14MM) and wiggle the caliper off. It will be snug but you'll get it off.
Next is to remove the e-brake connector from the caliper as the remanned ones don't come with it (I found that out the hard way).
As they say, reinstalling is the reverse of removal.
After you have it installed you'll need to bleed that one caliper. There are several posts on doing that but having a $10 bleeder kit from AutoZone will make it very simple.
Also,I removed my bad caliper first, one of the seals started leaking, and brought it with me so I didn't pay the core charge and then have go back to AutoZone a second time to get my $50 returned. The caliper was about $85.
Total time, without going to AutoZone, was about 45 minutes...but this is the third one I've done.
Don't be afraid to give it a shot
First, CAREFULLY pinch off the brake fluid line oterwise you'll end up draining the entire master cylinder. I use vise grips and also a popsicle stick. I put a part of the stick on the top and part on the bottom of the rubber portion of the line and apply enough pressure to squeeze the line tsnug but not overly tight. You'll first have to loosen the bleeder valve (10MM) to relieve the pressure so you can squeeze the line.
Next remove the banjo coupling from the caliper (14MM IIRC). You will lose some fluid so be prepared to catch it in something. Move the line out of the way but it will still drip a little fluid for a short while.
Next I disconnected the e-brake from the caliper. I used a vise grip so I could push in to relieve the tension and wiggle the connector off.
Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place (14MM) and wiggle the caliper off. It will be snug but you'll get it off.
Next is to remove the e-brake connector from the caliper as the remanned ones don't come with it (I found that out the hard way).
As they say, reinstalling is the reverse of removal.
After you have it installed you'll need to bleed that one caliper. There are several posts on doing that but having a $10 bleeder kit from AutoZone will make it very simple.
Also,I removed my bad caliper first, one of the seals started leaking, and brought it with me so I didn't pay the core charge and then have go back to AutoZone a second time to get my $50 returned. The caliper was about $85.
Total time, without going to AutoZone, was about 45 minutes...but this is the third one I've done.
Don't be afraid to give it a shot
Last winter I had a similar problem, the switch (for lack of a better word) which the ebrake cable attaches to on the caliper had frozen up. I tried to repair it with no luck so I just replaced the caliper. No problems 1 year later.
check this thread guys
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ke-thread.html
dealing with this issue now. here is the history though so you can see my troubleshooting process im about to endure, uhh
-rebuilt NAPA rear caliper put on car Feb. 2008
-rear calipers were freezing this past Feb. so I re-greased the pins and made sure pads moved unhindered in caliper
-few weeks ago, rear-driver side was sticking, re-greased pins, but noticed that everything moved well and was not sticking.
-and made sure the lever the E-cable attaches to still has play and is not frozen from rust (still moves fine). hmmm
-get in car today after it is sitting outside in snow and 21 degrees, rear-driver side is sticking pad. ahh!
after reading thru that thread above by spirilis, I have the same issues, loose p-brake handle and such.
Going out to garage now to unhook rear-driver side e-cable and see if that fixes things over this next week. If it does, new cable.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ke-thread.html
dealing with this issue now. here is the history though so you can see my troubleshooting process im about to endure, uhh
-rebuilt NAPA rear caliper put on car Feb. 2008
-rear calipers were freezing this past Feb. so I re-greased the pins and made sure pads moved unhindered in caliper
-few weeks ago, rear-driver side was sticking, re-greased pins, but noticed that everything moved well and was not sticking.
-and made sure the lever the E-cable attaches to still has play and is not frozen from rust (still moves fine). hmmm
-get in car today after it is sitting outside in snow and 21 degrees, rear-driver side is sticking pad. ahh!
after reading thru that thread above by spirilis, I have the same issues, loose p-brake handle and such.
Going out to garage now to unhook rear-driver side e-cable and see if that fixes things over this next week. If it does, new cable.
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
UPDATE!!! SOLVED THE MYSTERY!!!
OK guys.
Installed the new caliper and thought it was fixed. WRONG. Instead of randomly grabbing HARD now it is not biting just a little.
Fed up I drove it to the Dealership and was blown away, they diagnosed the problem in little over an hour and had charged me $31.95.
When I put new brakes on it I must have knocked off the emergency cable boot that attaches to the rear caliper. That allowed water to get into it which when the ebrake is on allows it to freeze.
We lubed it up real good, tried to clean and we'll see if that works. It has been grabbing for 3 days now and right now it is not. We'll see.
Andy
OK guys.
Installed the new caliper and thought it was fixed. WRONG. Instead of randomly grabbing HARD now it is not biting just a little.
Fed up I drove it to the Dealership and was blown away, they diagnosed the problem in little over an hour and had charged me $31.95.
When I put new brakes on it I must have knocked off the emergency cable boot that attaches to the rear caliper. That allowed water to get into it which when the ebrake is on allows it to freeze.
We lubed it up real good, tried to clean and we'll see if that works. It has been grabbing for 3 days now and right now it is not. We'll see.
Andy
Nice. I did disconnect my line on the side that was causing the problem. I too noticed that the boot had become disconnected.
Since the line has been disconnected I have not had a problem. Just need to get the water out now...
Since the line has been disconnected I have not had a problem. Just need to get the water out now...
I had the dreaded calipers lock on me as well. Both are replaced and when i pull the ebrake, the first three clicks feel like they have no load, like theres no cable attached to the lever. Then after those first three clicks, it finally feels like its doing its job but it locks only one wheel, or at least it feels that way. Is there a way to adjust the cables or do they need to be replaced?
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 135
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 16
Years ago I ran into the problem where the parking brake locked up the rear brakes.
This guy has a picture of exactly what the problem was and why it happened:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/48
Basically like he says - "When some mechanics put your Maxima on a hoist, sometimes the "lift arms" of the hoist bend the parking brake cable bracket."
I noticed that on my fathers car - which was one year newer - they routed the cable more to the inside where lifts would not cause the same problem.
This guy has a picture of exactly what the problem was and why it happened:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/48
Basically like he says - "When some mechanics put your Maxima on a hoist, sometimes the "lift arms" of the hoist bend the parking brake cable bracket."
I noticed that on my fathers car - which was one year newer - they routed the cable more to the inside where lifts would not cause the same problem.
Over the weekend I (And it was pretty cold), I went and drove my car down the block, about 2 miles. I got out and went in a friends house for about 3 hours. When I came back and released the emergency brake I noticed that the car felt sluggish.
I checked on a hill and sure enough the rear passenger brake was stuck.
I went ahead and drove home and when I got home I hoped out and looked at it, it was hot red. I fiddled with the E-handle a few times and finally it felt like it released.
Next morning I got up and drove Mom to the airport, everything was fine, I went and slept for about an hour, came back out and SAME thing, passenger brake was stuck.
So I jacked it up real quick and with some tools unhooked the manual pull emergency brake line from the caliper.
Everything is fine now only I don't have any emergency brakes and need to get this fixed.
Any of you have any ideas on what is causing just ONE side of the emergency brake lines to seize up? Old cable? Needs lube? Etc?
Thoughts? Ideas? Or more perferrably...Experience with this?
I checked on a hill and sure enough the rear passenger brake was stuck.
I went ahead and drove home and when I got home I hoped out and looked at it, it was hot red. I fiddled with the E-handle a few times and finally it felt like it released.
Next morning I got up and drove Mom to the airport, everything was fine, I went and slept for about an hour, came back out and SAME thing, passenger brake was stuck.
So I jacked it up real quick and with some tools unhooked the manual pull emergency brake line from the caliper.
Everything is fine now only I don't have any emergency brakes and need to get this fixed.
Any of you have any ideas on what is causing just ONE side of the emergency brake lines to seize up? Old cable? Needs lube? Etc?
Thoughts? Ideas? Or more perferrably...Experience with this?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 21
From: Hamilton Ontario
Frozen emergency cable
I had to replace the passenger side cable on my 02 a couple of years ago and now have the same problem again. Only happens if the car is left outside in freezing weather. Left the car outside without the brake on and was not even able to move the lever in the morning. Car drove fine but was not able to apply the emergency brake untill it thawed out in the garage. Tomorrow I am going to see if the boot came off of the cable and allowed water in again. The calipers ware replaced when I had the problem last time before the garage realised that it was a frozen cable.
Lots of folks first think it's the caliper and usually it's the E-brake cable and housing sticking! Disconnecting the splitt yoke and disconnect the e-brake cable off the caliper, so you can test the ease of e-brake cable movement within it's housing and eliminate this part of the e-brake system.....
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 21
From: Hamilton Ontario
I agree. When it first happened a couple of years ago I was leaving a friends house and noticed that the lever seemed different when trying to release the brakes. After realising that the rear right brake was dragging I was eventually able to free it by playing with the lever. I usually do my own repairs but since it was too cold out I took it to a garage that I occasionally go to. Unfortunately the mechanic (owner) was at the BJ auction in Scottsdale so his apprentices ended up doing the job.
Although I had suggested the cable they were convinced that it was the caliper. Although the calipers had been recently worked on I let them replace them as they were the originals. I picked up the car and after finding that the problem was still there I took it back. They were convinced that it was a defective rebuilt caliper and replaced the right one again. Again I picked it up. It had been parked outside overnight and was completely frozen again. They then replaced the cable for only the wholesale cost of it. End of problem.
I just joined this forum but was sometimes on another forum for years. Got another computer last year and forgot the exact name of the forum and did not have it in my favourites. Tried every Nissan forum using my usual handle and password but no luck. Must be getting old. Anyhow here I am.
Just bought a kerosene heater so I will tackle the problem myself. Have to remove all flammable liquids so I don't burn down the house.
Although I had suggested the cable they were convinced that it was the caliper. Although the calipers had been recently worked on I let them replace them as they were the originals. I picked up the car and after finding that the problem was still there I took it back. They were convinced that it was a defective rebuilt caliper and replaced the right one again. Again I picked it up. It had been parked outside overnight and was completely frozen again. They then replaced the cable for only the wholesale cost of it. End of problem.
I just joined this forum but was sometimes on another forum for years. Got another computer last year and forgot the exact name of the forum and did not have it in my favourites. Tried every Nissan forum using my usual handle and password but no luck. Must be getting old. Anyhow here I am.
Just bought a kerosene heater so I will tackle the problem myself. Have to remove all flammable liquids so I don't burn down the house.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 21
From: Hamilton Ontario
Update, Removed cable from rear right brake assembly and layed it on the floor. Water poured out of the end indicating a broken rubber boot. I examined it and you can see where the cable has worn through the inside of the boot. I will try to inject some lock de-icer or gas line anti-freeze (remove kerosene heater) and then pack grease into end. If this was the original cable I would replace it but not after only two years. Besides we plan on replacing the car in the spring.
We have had little issues with this car but the rear brakes have been an area that has required frequent work. Lucky to get more that 20,000 klm's out of a set of rotors.
We have had little issues with this car but the rear brakes have been an area that has required frequent work. Lucky to get more that 20,000 klm's out of a set of rotors.
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