hey boys and girls....

so i have already posted on this but...... i have done what i was tols to do and more.... nothing the same way it was befor but i figured out some new tricks....

so when i go to start my car in the mornings (0) c, it wont start up right away ill give it ten cranks then it starts but runs sluggish for litterally 5 seconds then it seems to idle normally.... but if i turn the key over (not starting it) and hear the fuel pump prime for 1-2 seconds and then turn my key so it is just about to start cranking i can hear the fuel pump run again consitantly, i let it run for another 5 seconds (fuel pump) and turn the key a bit more, and it fires right up like a brand new car!!!!! while im waiting for it to warm up to op temp, i can very gently start allowing the rpms to climb..... WTF its climbed up to 2000 rpm and its stuck.... no wait its bogging.... back down to 1500 rpm in about five seconds of struggling trying to stay at 2000, but i can quickly mash the gas peddle and it will normally shoot up to 4000, so why would it only do this when its cold and i am gentle with the peddle?????????? you would think if i was having fuel issues it would happend more so when i mash on it because the motor is demanding more fuel right?????? i know.... wierd, i have cleaned and checked my maf it seems ok.... i hooked a multi meter up to it ( i dont know if i had it set right) but while it was running i increased the throttle and it started to climb in volts steadily no missing or hesitation in the numbers( mind you i did it while it was warm) i also checked my tps.... same deal it had a nice steady climb in volts.... i have checked my coils there good, new plugs, fresh synthetic oil change, newer fuel filter, wtf???? am i crazy is it just because its so cold and this is another normal max issue???? but why would it start up fine ( but it still bogs when i start it the retarded way) when i prime it and then let the pump run befor i actually turn it over???? it wouldnt be the fuel pump because its kinda opposite of a failing fuel pump, a bad pump runs good when cold and bad when warm, mine runs fricken great( i think) when its warmed up!!!! same goes if im in a hurry and i fire it up the retarded way lol, and take off slow while still cold i can feel it bogging, hesitating) wile around the rpm range i mention, but if i take off fast its fine.... please please please someone help me........ me and my max belong on that tv show "obsessed" i swaer i have ocd with my vehicles, it needs to be perfect or i shouldnt own a car!!!!!! cuz i obsess over it this is making me not wanna sleep i just wanna figure this out, i know this might not make a whole lot of sense so if i have posted this all cluttered like just reply im a fast replier ( did i mention a horrible speller) hahahah someone help
*** i dont think its anything to do with the iacv, because the rpms are at 2000 rpm when it starts to bog.... but the coolant temp sensor is the only thing i really havent done, but i can drive the car and park it for 20 mins and come back when its still kinda warm and ill have trouble starting it again but no bogging that will only happen when the temp guage is at the c give or take a bit

thanks guys!!!!!!! i really appreciate your help!!!!


p.s. i thought i would add this it might help you help me....
i bought the car not to long ago 130000 kilometers auto, and owned by a guy that worked for nissan as a service manager, im pretty sure it started fine up until i put reg gas in it then i found out it requires premium(91) so i immediatley went to a gas station and put 91 in it but i think ever since i ran 87 in it after that it started having these problems( i think) i would have noticed it befor that and i dont think i did, should i run some sea foam through my tank????

 

What year is your car? 00 and 01 the plastic intake manifold causes alot of problems in the cold. Very cold weather the intake warps a little and you get a leak. Something to check.

 

So.... Its not my cts I replaced it and its still doing it.... I have rsprayed down my intake when cold and a few hoses with tb cleaner to see if I could hear a fluctuation in my rpms nothin.... So I have ruled out. My maf,tps,cts, intake leak,.... I'm stumped all I know is its really annoying and there is no engine light! I hooked a multi meter and it had good resistance while I was accel. The risistance dropped smoothly, any other suggestions???
Hi there, yea it is a 00, but wouldn't an intake gasket act up through out the whole rev range??? Because I the acceleration is fine from 700rpm to about 1500 rpm. Its bad between 1500rpm and its good from 2000 and up ??? I think the resistance in my cts (coolant temp sensor) might be stuck thinking its constantly warm not giving it enough gas to function properly until I mash on the gas g, how can I test my intake for leaks?? Spray throttle body around it??? Will a vac guage read if its leaking? If so where dhould I test it from???

 

Actually its funny that you're getting this problem because im having the same exact problem with my 2000 maxima. Actually you described it perfectly. Its actually the intake manifold gasket on mine. In the cold it has a small gap but as it warms up, the gasket expands and seals the hole. Im the manager at Goodyear location here in Orlando and i used a smoke machine to figure out my problem. At first i thought it was the MAF and replaced it but still did the same thing

P.s. it was the upper plennum gasket to be exact that was leaking on mine and its only $5 from the dealer BUT its alot of work to intall (calls for about 3.5 hours to install)

 

I have the same issue with the exception that I'm not having any start up issues and the car idles just fine.

 

finally someone with the same syptoms!!!!!! thank you!!!! this has been mentiond to me bfor but you know..... you never want to replace something thats that difficult when your not sure if the person who told you isnt having the same exact symptoms, was it only at a certain rpm you would notice it, that makes sense that its not noticeable at higher rpms, meaning the hole is to small to suck large amounts in so higher rpms are not affected, im going to see if i can find someone who will do this ''smoke test'' and see what it comes up like.... im excited for this.... i just took it to a shop and the guy had no clue what it was, so tomorrow im getting this issue dealt with, thanks so much, i hope it is cuz its soooooo annoying and i want it fixed!!!!!

 

hey no problem, im glad i can help. My issue started really bad when it started getting cold a couple weeks ago. i live in florida so it just started getting cold here. Every morning, on a cold start, it would idle as if it had a misfire (it didnt sing as if it had a bad MAf, it was irregular) and did it constantly until the temp gauge got to about 1/4. Even as i drive off it my car would just keep hesitating until i got to running temp UNLESS i mashed the gas pedal then it would run normal. As i was writing you back, my mechanic was putting on the new plennum gasket and he just finished it this morning and it fixed my problem completely. Let me know if you have any questions and im glad i can help good luck

 

P.s for those who dont know what a smoke test is:

First you remove the intake tube and plug up the intake manifold then you use a smoke machine which has baby oil in it and burns it creating a nice gray (and safe) smoke. You plug it into a vacuum hose and give it a couple minutes. If you have a leak, you'll start to see the smoke coming out of that spot. Here we only charge $29.95 for a smoke test. You shouldnt have to pay more than that.

 

****update****

So to date I have replaced and properly tested and cleaned the following:
Cts
Plugs
Tested tps
Battery
Replaced upper plenum gasket
Cleaned the maf
New air filter
Fuel filter
Cleaned the throttle body....
My car is hard to start cold or hot and when its cold and I take off I have bogging in between 1000r 2000 rpm under or over its fine... Once its warmed up its pretty much gone (I can only feel very very slight cuts when its. Around those rpms)
Its not a miss for sure its a bog...

Any other suggestions

 

Have you cleaned your IACV? I was having a cold start issue on my 4th gen where the car would start then bog and hesitate till it died. Cleaned the IACV completely and the problem is gone.

 

Well the iacv is bypassed once you put your foot on the gas, if he's still getting the same hesitation as he drives then the iacv would be the issue. Looks like the upper intake gasket didnt help you. Did you do the smoke test?

 

My idle is okay, I don't think its my iacv, from 800 to about 1500 my idol is okay, its bad from around 1200 to 2000 and fine from there up its only really when its cold but sometimes from a stop when warm I can feel a little cut around 1500 and when cruzing at any speed if the rpms are around 1500 I can very slightly feel. Cuts ( misses, but its not missing) it sounds like a tps but I tested it and its good!!! I'm stumped I really think its a fuel issue because when I try and start it in the mornings I can turn the key to acc and hear it prime, then start slowly turning the key so its just so its just about to start turning over and I can hear the fuel pump hmmm again. And kick it over and it start perfectly but still has the bog, I just put some seafoam in the tank it did make huge results but still bogs, its gotta be some sensor but I have tested and replacedsthe ones that are for cold starts... I didn't do the smoke test no... I'm pretty confidant that its not a vacuum leak though... Now at least... Xdsub 40 was your. Intake leak only a problem between those rpms I stated or was it bad from idle up to 2000 rpm because I would think if it was a vac leak it would be bad from idole to 2000 mine is only at a certain point 1200 to 2000 rpm its fine befor 1200 rpm that's why I don't think its a vac leak anymore because it. Would be horrible from idol up to 2000 rpm
t

 

So minus the cold start issue. But keeping it in mind. Cuz I can bypass that it idols fine but once the revs hit 2000 it bogs to 1500 but the idol is fine, and when the idol hits 2000 and bogs to 1500 I can hear the revs kinda pulsate its very odd , I'm going ro clean all my grounds up. Maybe I have a bad ground and its messin with my alt. Could that be a possibility my batt is testing good. But old I'm going to clean my ground and ill let you all know what happens

 

yeah my car acted funny only under 2k rpm. idle would just bounce irregularly until i gave it gas.

 

Hmm...I wonder if I have a problem with my plennum gasket. I don't have any check engine lights. When it is cold in the morning (yes, it gets cold in Florida ) the idle fluctuates drastically, but once it warms up it is fine. Also, if I give it some gas it seems to be ok.

I just replaced my MAF which I think give me more power then I had before. I thought that was going to fix the problem.

Can I just spray some carb cleaner or something around the plennum area to see if it clears up dies? Just a thought I had instead of blowing smoke up the cars pipes?

 

Or you can just clean your IACV and see of that solves it. It'll take 30mins to remove, clean and re-install. Might as well give it a shot.

I doubt it's a bad gasket because if that was it, the problem would happen all the time.

 

Ok...thanks Chris. I might try to clean IACV over the weekend before going through a plennum gasket replacement.

 

Is there any other write ups for cleaning the IACV besides the one for the 4th gen? And do I need to replace any gaskets when doing this?

Which I found here? : http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html

 

The process should essentially be the same fpr you 5th gen guys, I'm gonna search and if I find anything I'll post it in here.

If the gasket is a metal gasket like it is on the 4th gens, it doesn't have to be replaced if it's in good shape. Mine looked brand new so I didn't replace it.

 

noi not really, well yes if the "gasket" is bad it would be a consistant problem but if you have a warped intake, then the problem will clear once warm(depending on how warped it is lol) when the intake is really cold it can warp from the cold, then when it warms up the intake will settle back down onto the gasket from expansion, if you do change your plenum gasket, remove the upper intake it self and find a very flat surface it has to be perfectly flat and see if it todders at all, then you know its time to upgrade your intake

 

I highly doubt the intake is warped.

 

i know but it is a huge possibilty, it does happen and very very common with the maximas.

 

**UPDATE** wierd..... I took a maf out of a 02 pathfinder and put it in my car and it starts dine hot or cold, I can still feel the hesitation a tiny bit only when cold now though and its minimal.... Downshifting is ok now I don't have the intermittent slightly ruff idle I was having... I guess the two mafs I tried. Were garbage... It doesn't feel more powerful but it feels more sturdy... You know what I mean...
Its only been two cold starts though so ill have to give it a bit to be sure, but its definatley made a huge difference. I don't understand how I tried a new maf and a refurbished and they both made no difference or made it 10 times worse....... Mind blowing but for anyone else with this issue here were my problems
Loooooong starts in the morning
When warm started as if timing was off for about 5 seconds
Hesitation when accelerating from a stop @1500 rpm/hesitation while cruising. @1500rpm
Odd downshifting( like when slowing down for a red light then re applying gas )
.... Anyways I thought I would let everone know because a few of the symtoms were nothing like what you read about not being able to get above 2500 or hesitation or hitting walls at high rpms powerloss. Anyways ill post back tomorrow if anything changes. Good luck and thanks for everyones help! Yea I know! The maf sensor was said to me a bunch! But I replaced it twice! And the symptoms were a bit different.