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Heat not working at Idle.

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Old 12-13-2010 | 08:15 AM
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Heat not working at Idle.

Searched for a while and could not find this same condition. My heater seems to work find during driving conditions. If I sit a a light, the air gets cool. When I start going again, hot again. If I start the car and let the engine warm up, (15 Min), I still go no heat until about 5-6 miles. Any thoughts? Read a little about resistors and air in the core, but nothing seems to be the same conditions. Freezing my nuts off in Philly.

Thanks,

G
Old 12-13-2010 | 08:59 AM
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Air in the system.

1- Change your radiator cap and refill the system.

2- Let idle without the cap until thermostat opens

3- Make sure the overflow reserve level is sufficient.

4- Install new cap.
Old 12-13-2010 | 09:07 AM
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Thanks for the info. Will do at lunch. I definately have a radiator issue (leak), have to change, just dont have the time. How do I know when the thermostat is open?

thanks again,

g
Old 12-13-2010 | 09:17 AM
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If you have a leak that is probably where your air is coming from (duh...). You don't need a new radiator cap.

Keep it full and you'll have heat. I wouldn't even try to bleed it until you get that fixed. Just pop off the radiator cap every morning (WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!!!! Don't do it when it's hot), top it off, and go.

Do you know where the leak is? I've used JB Weld to stop radiator leaks in the past and they've held up surprisingly well. Not a permanent solution but a darn good one.
Old 01-17-2012 | 07:39 PM
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I'm having the exact same issue as the OP for the last week. Heat comes thru fine when driving but I get no heat when idling. I do have a leak as I can see antifreeze along the top of the radiator (see picture. red arrow points towards leak area). I can also smell and see coolant burning. After driving the car for a while and getting out and stopping, I can see a little bit of smoke escaping from under the hood. If the engine is cold and I start the car, I can also hear fluid trickling from somewhere under the hood but I can't figure out where. This only last a few seconds. Presumably its the antifreeze as I never used to hear it before. Judging by the picture, anyone know where the antifreeze could be leaking from? It doesn't look like the cap as the cap area is dry.

http://tinypic.com/r/14v4saw/5
Old 01-17-2012 | 10:41 PM
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first replace radiator , the cooling system is supposed to be under a certain pressure to be effective,and if you have a leak , it will never, ever hold or maintain pressure .

I had a leaking radiator last summer and i am glad it was spraying onto the exhaust manifold and heating up, thus causing a maple syrup sweet smell through the vents, replaced radiator and tons of heat and no more sweet smell.


Replace radiator before doing anything else!!!
Old 01-18-2012 | 05:29 AM
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had this same issue last year....also noticed I had a leak in the radiator. Replaced the rad and everything went back to normal.
Old 01-18-2012 | 06:28 AM
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Did you check the coolant level? When I bought my car it was doing the same thing. Turns out the car had little coolant and when I was at a stand still it was blowing cold. Top up the anti-freeze and if that don't work try changing it.
Old 01-18-2012 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by geenowalker
had this same issue last year....also noticed I had a leak in the radiator. Replaced the rad and everything went back to normal.
How much did it cost you? Or did you do it yourself? Is there a write-up/video somewhere that I can look at on how to do it yourself?

Originally Posted by mrjasonlyrics
Did you check the coolant level? When I bought my car it was doing the same thing. Turns out the car had little coolant and when I was at a stand still it was blowing cold. Top up the anti-freeze and if that don't work try changing it.
It was low because of the leak. I topped it off and it worked for a day before going back to the same symptoms.
Old 01-18-2012 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by shobuddy
How much did it cost you? Or did you do it yourself? Is there a write-up/video somewhere that I can look at on how to do it yourself?
check out the group buys _- http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...t-pricing.html

Searching for "replace radiator" gave me this - http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-writeup.html
Old 01-18-2012 | 08:44 AM
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Do products like these work? Is it worth a try? It does not say anything about the severity or location of the leak.

http://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-...6904985&sr=8-3
Old 01-18-2012 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by shobuddy
Do products like these work? Is it worth a try? It does not say anything about the severity or location of the leak.

http://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-...6904985&sr=8-3
Don't even bother. Just get a new radiator. If you are really tight for cash, just get a radiator from RockAuto.com for $50. A new radiator is better than a bandaid.

Last edited by TallTom; 01-18-2012 at 09:58 AM.
Old 01-18-2012 | 10:01 AM
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i've tried patching up radiator before, the fix never lasts.

For the price of a new aftermarket radiator, it is good insurance to put a new radiator in and know that the problem is fixed.

you might want to replace the radiator cap and thermostat for good insurance.
Old 01-18-2012 | 10:46 AM
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Patch a radiator? Didn't know those things existed. Bro save yourself the time and frustration. Especially in the winter time you don't want to have your rad leaking. It's time to change your rad and there's just some things you don't repair and the rad falls in that category.
Old 01-18-2012 | 10:58 AM
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Thanks for all the input. I'll get the radiator replaced soon. I go to a local gas station where I trust the tech. I hope hes ok w/me bringing my own parts (radiator).
Old 01-18-2012 | 11:12 AM
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The rad should cost no more than $150. I would say DIY because I did it with no experience but it's having a back up plan incase you get stock. I drained the coolant out, unplugged the rings, replaced it,poured in the new rad fluid,turn the car on and let it ran with the cap off the get the trapped air bubbles out,and refilled it when it went down,then refilled it Along with the coolant resevour in less than an hour, no lie.

My mechanic wanted to charge me $150 2hr job that I did for nothing and in 1hr no experince
Old 01-18-2012 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TallTom
Don't even bother. Just get a new radiator. If you are really tight for cash, just get a radiator from RockAuto.com for $50. A new radiator is better than a bandaid.
I assume radiators vary in quality. Is this a decent radiator for $50? Went to Advance Auto this evening and they sell one for $110.00. Napa has one for $180. So why so much difference in prices and which is a decent one?
Old 01-19-2012 | 07:48 AM
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If you end up paying cheap for something, don't expect it to last as long as the original. The $50 ebay specials won't last as long as the ones that cost $100 plus.

I advise you to get the Koyo radiator from the group specials link I posted earlier. There are many of us on Maxima.org that have this radiator and we will all tell you that it is an excellent product.
Old 01-19-2012 | 09:02 AM
  #19  
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you want to make sure to get that radiator replaced as soon as possible... that leak wll do nothing but get worse and the leak will finally give way at the most unopportune time.
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