Anyone use an oil drain valve?
12-23-2010, 11:30 AM
#1
Anyone use an oil drain valve?
For $23, I've been thinking about buying one since I drive 3000+ miles per month so I do about 14 oil changes a year in my driveway.
Any downside to the valve?
Any downside to the valve?
12-23-2010, 12:44 PM
#4
That can be prevented by drilling a hole in the lever and wrapping a steel seal around the valve. They use this method for bolts and such on motorcycles to prevent them from falling off or coming open during races.
12-23-2010, 01:09 PM
#5
Actually, they sell a simple spring clip with it if that worries you.
As it sits, the lever is spring-loaded with a pretty strong detente, so you would have to wack it with a rock or tree limb to open it up.
As it sits, the lever is spring-loaded with a pretty strong detente, so you would have to wack it with a rock or tree limb to open it up.
12-23-2010, 01:23 PM
#6
12-23-2010, 01:31 PM
#7
I use a full synthetic, but still change it about every 3-4000 miles. The 3.5 seems to start doing strange things if I let the intervals go longer than that. My Altima was the same way, a fresh oil change seems to make lights and sensors and internal engine noises go back to normal.
And for some reason, my 3.5's never seemed to go through oil until 2000 miles into an oil change, then they started using oil at a much faster rate than when it was fresh. Maybe it's just my imagination, but both cars seemed to do that. The 3.0's I have don't have that symptom, and the oil stays nice and clean in them right up to 5000 miles.
And for some reason, my 3.5's never seemed to go through oil until 2000 miles into an oil change, then they started using oil at a much faster rate than when it was fresh. Maybe it's just my imagination, but both cars seemed to do that. The 3.0's I have don't have that symptom, and the oil stays nice and clean in them right up to 5000 miles.
Last edited by trooplewis; 12-23-2010 at 01:33 PM.
They have one that has a hose nipple on it, same function, different part.
12-23-2010, 08:16 PM
#12
I have one, but it doesn't fit with the cattman headers. Well actually it fits, but you can't screw it into the pan while the pan is on the car. When I replace the pan I will be putting this on. I got the one that you can attach a small hose to so all the oil doesn't end up on the header skid plate...
12-23-2010, 09:23 PM
#14
I change my oil around 7-8k regardless of whether it burns oil or not.
With GC or mobil1 EP I don't see why you can't very safely do that change interval. Especially considering a lot of VQ35s have to top up.
Dino lovers will swear to you that you can change every 5k and the engine will be just as good after 100k as using syn.... lulz. They even profess their love of dino so much as to use it for 300k and think it's just as good syn in every way and that the engine isn't dirty. I want some of what they have in their pill dispensers.
With GC or mobil1 EP I don't see why you can't very safely do that change interval. Especially considering a lot of VQ35s have to top up.
Dino lovers will swear to you that you can change every 5k and the engine will be just as good after 100k as using syn.... lulz. They even profess their love of dino so much as to use it for 300k and think it's just as good syn in every way and that the engine isn't dirty. I want some of what they have in their pill dispensers.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-23-2010 at 09:28 PM.
12-23-2010, 09:36 PM
#15
No, that would sort of defeat the purpose of buying it, wouldn't it?
Watch a video of how it works
http://youtu.be/qwQ15OmQNOU
Watch a video of how it works
http://youtu.be/qwQ15OmQNOU
Last edited by trooplewis; 12-23-2010 at 09:57 PM.
12-24-2010, 02:36 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: BRONX
Posts: 720
I changed my oil last time after 10000 miles,it had royal purple oil and k&N filter,the filter was on for maybe 15,000 miles because I could'nt get the darn thing off during the oil change before that so I left it....my car is A 2000 and it don't burn oil at all either...well after changing oil, I noticed it still looked like it could go longer and was still in fair condition...bought me some oil filter pliers and ripped that darn filter off and put A royal purple one this time and changed again with royal purple...im good for another 10000 easy now 
.
.
12-24-2010, 09:53 AM
#18
Just an FYI for you guys saying the oil didn't look good at time of changing or looked good. You really can't tell by looking at the oil visually. You have to get it tested. A good oil testing company will be able to tell you approximately how much longer the oil had left, if anything.
Another benefit of the oil testing is they can determine if your engine is leaking coolant into the oil, excessive fuel, water, dirt (bad air filter), and any excessive engine wear (they can even determine where the excessive wear is coming from by the type of metal).
Another benefit of the oil testing is they can determine if your engine is leaking coolant into the oil, excessive fuel, water, dirt (bad air filter), and any excessive engine wear (they can even determine where the excessive wear is coming from by the type of metal).
12-24-2010, 12:44 PM
#19
No, that would sort of defeat the purpose of buying it, wouldn't it?
Watch a video of how it works
http://youtu.be/qwQ15OmQNOU
Watch a video of how it works
http://youtu.be/qwQ15OmQNOU
12-24-2010, 05:09 PM
#20
Yeah, I ordered one off of Amazon today.
It wasn't the valve so much as the hose that drains directly into a jug that convinced me to get it. I hate "transporting" used oil from the catch pan into a container that I can take to the recycling place.
Plus about half the time when I do an oil change, I drop the drain plug into the oil catch pan and have to fish around in there to get it out.
It wasn't the valve so much as the hose that drains directly into a jug that convinced me to get it. I hate "transporting" used oil from the catch pan into a container that I can take to the recycling place.
Plus about half the time when I do an oil change, I drop the drain plug into the oil catch pan and have to fish around in there to get it out.
12-24-2010, 06:07 PM
#23
I like this alot but was skeptical as well, too bad its confirmed it wont work with the Cattman headers.
Looks like Fram makes a kit as well:
http://www.amazon.com/Fram-SD3-SureD...2002&carId=005
Looks like Fram makes a kit as well:
http://www.amazon.com/Fram-SD3-SureD...2002&carId=005
12-25-2010, 03:28 AM
#25
If you don't want to buy one, the solution is simple.
12-25-2010, 05:07 AM
#26
If I didn't get free oil changes, I think I'd be all over this little widget, Troop. I think you should get one.
12-27-2010, 08:59 PM
#28
Figure this one out;
It was in my mailbox today, Dec 27
Qwik Valve shipped the following item(s) in your order 102-6026121-3435464, placed on December 23, 2010.
Delivery Estimate: January 03, 2011 - January 19, 2011
Delivery Estimate: January 03, 2011 - January 19, 2011
12-27-2010, 10:42 PM
#29
No idea, when I buy junk online I look for Contact or About pages on the site to see where the item might ship from.
Quik Valve says they are located at:
353 West 48th St
#311
New York, NY 10036
I don't know though, look at these install steps on the site. Even the FSM says to clean the drain plug and drain hole.
Installation:
1. Remove original drain plug and drain oil into acceptable receptacle.
2. Insert Engine Oil Drain Valve with gasket and tighten. Do not over tighten. (Some oil pans are designed with recessed drain hole which may prevent the valve from being installed properly. If the valve can not be tightened all the way without hitting the oil pan wall, do not install the Drain Valve to your vehicle. Adapters are available for some models.)
3. Make sure valve is closed and refill crankcase.
Quik Valve says they are located at:
353 West 48th St
#311
New York, NY 10036
I don't know though, look at these install steps on the site. Even the FSM says to clean the drain plug and drain hole.
Installation:
1. Remove original drain plug and drain oil into acceptable receptacle.
2. Insert Engine Oil Drain Valve with gasket and tighten. Do not over tighten. (Some oil pans are designed with recessed drain hole which may prevent the valve from being installed properly. If the valve can not be tightened all the way without hitting the oil pan wall, do not install the Drain Valve to your vehicle. Adapters are available for some models.)
3. Make sure valve is closed and refill crankcase.
12-29-2010, 01:36 AM
#33
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 158
I had one of these on a 1982 Toyota 4x4
It worked great, it was still on the truck when I sold it with 244,000 miles on the odo. The lever has to be raised (or lowered) before it will turn and open the drain. In all the years it never leaked a drop of oil. On the Toyota there was quite a bit of stuff to protect the drain plug so I never worried about anything hitting it.
The Maxima is a different story, with the drain plug on the bottom of the pan it would be easily damaged. I don't spend a lot of time under the car but it seems like the drain plug is fairly exposed from what I remember.
The Maxima is a different story, with the drain plug on the bottom of the pan it would be easily damaged. I don't spend a lot of time under the car but it seems like the drain plug is fairly exposed from what I remember.
12-29-2010, 03:55 AM
#34
12-29-2010, 07:11 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
They sell these quick drain valves at Advance Auto Parts. If you live in an area where these stores are located, check to see how much they cost there so you wouldn't have to wait for shipping somewhere else. I've yet to use one of these types of drain valves, but I'm seriously considering it.
12-29-2010, 07:27 PM
#36
12-29-2010, 07:28 PM
#37
If the drain plug wasn't near the bottom like mentioned, I'd be all for it. With this car, I'll pass on a valve like that. I still change the oil with Mobil1/OEM filter every 3-4k cause it burns a good amount anyways.
12-29-2010, 07:33 PM
#38
I use a full synthetic, but still change it about every 3-4000 miles. The 3.5 seems to start doing strange things if I let the intervals go longer than that. My Altima was the same way, a fresh oil change seems to make lights and sensors and internal engine noises go back to normal.
And for some reason, my 3.5's never seemed to go through oil until 2000 miles into an oil change, then they started using oil at a much faster rate than when it was fresh. Maybe it's just my imagination, but both cars seemed to do that. The 3.0's I have don't have that symptom, and the oil stays nice and clean in them right up to 5000 miles.
And for some reason, my 3.5's never seemed to go through oil until 2000 miles into an oil change, then they started using oil at a much faster rate than when it was fresh. Maybe it's just my imagination, but both cars seemed to do that. The 3.0's I have don't have that symptom, and the oil stays nice and clean in them right up to 5000 miles.
12-29-2010, 07:37 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Hmmm... I don't recall if my DE-K has the drain plug on the bottom or located on the side of the pan. I'm gonna have to go look. If it's side mounted, I might get the quick drain.
12-30-2010, 04:50 AM
#40