acceleration run.
12-26-2010, 05:13 PM
#41
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I did look into the technosquare ecu and they did seem to say they could set it up for nitrous. I will def retard the timing and get a step colder if I get the nitrous setup . Not going to go higher than 75. It is already a perfect grocery getter. What's funny is the only time I drive her hard is during these silly videos. Never street raced or anything. But I will def be careful.
Thanks Sparks.
Thanks Sparks.
The biggest things to remember are a wideband and 1 step colder COPPER plugs. I've heard iridiums are ok, too, but copper is much cheaper. They need to be changed relatively often (20-30k miles depending on how often you spray) but you'll be checking them constantly, anyway.
Tune your SAFC for a perfect N/A ratio, don't worry about nitrous AF until you are dialed in NA. 12.8-13.0 is perfect for most bolton VQ35s (according to many sources, including Jime, my350z tuners, and my own results). Use your fuel jetting to get the right A/F with nitrous. Somewhere around 11.7-12 would be ideal.
DO IT!!!! You will love it... Your transmission might hate it, though.
12-26-2010, 05:20 PM
#44
If you're sticking with the 75 shot, stock timing is ok. Timing is worth a TON of power on both nitrous and NA, so having them retard it will lose you some power for sure. I ran stock timing with the +2 base from consult when spraying the 75 shot and checked the front plugs after every time I used it and never found signs of detonation. I regularly sprayed with 93 octane. However, I would recommend doing some water/meth injection to go with it for peace of mind without sacrificing power.
The biggest things to remember are a wideband and 1 step colder COPPER plugs. I've heard iridiums are ok, too, but copper is much cheaper. They need to be changed relatively often (20-30k miles depending on how often you spray) but you'll be checking them constantly, anyway.
Tune your SAFC for a perfect N/A ratio, don't worry about nitrous AF until you are dialed in NA. 12.8-13.0 is perfect for most bolton VQ35s (according to many sources, including Jime, my350z tuners, and my own results). Use your fuel jetting to get the right A/F with nitrous. Somewhere around 11.7-12 would be ideal.
DO IT!!!! You will love it... Your transmission might hate it, though.
The biggest things to remember are a wideband and 1 step colder COPPER plugs. I've heard iridiums are ok, too, but copper is much cheaper. They need to be changed relatively often (20-30k miles depending on how often you spray) but you'll be checking them constantly, anyway.
Tune your SAFC for a perfect N/A ratio, don't worry about nitrous AF until you are dialed in NA. 12.8-13.0 is perfect for most bolton VQ35s (according to many sources, including Jime, my350z tuners, and my own results). Use your fuel jetting to get the right A/F with nitrous. Somewhere around 11.7-12 would be ideal.
DO IT!!!! You will love it... Your transmission might hate it, though.
Does a bolt-on VQ35 make the best power at AFR 12.8-13.0 even at 3000-4500 RPM?
Last edited by jowo9; 12-26-2010 at 05:23 PM.
12-26-2010, 05:24 PM
#45
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Hey Sparks, is 12.8-13.0 AFR ideal even between 3000 and 4500 RPM? I was just tuning w/ my VAFC today and my 4500-6500 range is 12.8-13.2, but my 3000-4500 range is a tad leaner on average (ranges from 12.8-13.6)...
Should I try to get the 3000-4500 RPM range tuned for 12.8-13.0 AFR as well?
Should I try to get the 3000-4500 RPM range tuned for 12.8-13.0 AFR as well?
From 3000-4700 or so, I start at 13.5 and slowly come down towards 13.1 or so. From 5000 up I aim for 12.8.
You don't want it having much variance in any case from 1 moment to the next. The smoother the AF curve, the smoother and higher the power delivery. Nmex can attest to that from his dyno crazy days!
12-26-2010, 05:24 PM
#46
Hey Sparks, is 12.8-13.0 AFR ideal even between 3000 and 4500 RPM? I was just tuning w/ my VAFC today and my 4500-6500 range is 12.8-13.2, but my 3000-4500 range is a tad leaner on average (ranges from 12.8-13.6)...
Does a bolt-on VQ35 make the best power even at 3000-4500 RPM at a AFR of 12.8-13.0?
Does a bolt-on VQ35 make the best power even at 3000-4500 RPM at a AFR of 12.8-13.0?
12-26-2010, 05:27 PM
#47
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DE-K injectors >>>>>>> 350z. They are direct dropin, and higher flowrate than the 350z ones (I believe 335cc vs 315cc for Z/02+ max but not 100% sure). I have been using DE-K injectors for a while in mine.
12-26-2010, 05:31 PM
#48
12-26-2010, 05:34 PM
#49
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I ended up getting the UTEC Tuner so I can use pretty graphs with UTI
Last edited by sparks03max; 12-26-2010 at 05:37 PM.
12-26-2010, 05:37 PM
#50
I would have never thought DE-K injectors fit. Huh, I might have to consider that.
I've run a 130 (crank) shot with only -2 timing removed via ConsultII and Meth injection. I actually don't know if it was a 130 shot since I leaned out the fuel jet by about .6 (smaller) to get the A/F from the single digits to 11.5-12.0:1.
But that acceleration run looks pretty good.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/alti...est_643839.htm
Here's mine.
I've run a 130 (crank) shot with only -2 timing removed via ConsultII and Meth injection. I actually don't know if it was a 130 shot since I leaned out the fuel jet by about .6 (smaller) to get the A/F from the single digits to 11.5-12.0:1.
But that acceleration run looks pretty good.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/alti...est_643839.htm
Here's mine.
12-26-2010, 05:37 PM
#51
Yeah I should have made that more clear.
From 3000-4700 or so, I start at 13.5 and slowly come down towards 13.1 or so. From 5000 up I aim for 12.8.
You don't want it having much variance in any case from 1 moment to the next. The smoother the AF curve, the smoother and higher the power delivery. Nmex can attest to that from his dyno crazy days!
From 3000-4700 or so, I start at 13.5 and slowly come down towards 13.1 or so. From 5000 up I aim for 12.8.
You don't want it having much variance in any case from 1 moment to the next. The smoother the AF curve, the smoother and higher the power delivery. Nmex can attest to that from his dyno crazy days!
12-26-2010, 05:41 PM
#52
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Generally, if you are getting a lean spike 100 rpms after an area, you should add a small amount of fuel to the area that comes directly before it. That worked for me.
12-26-2010, 05:44 PM
#53
It's tough with a SAFC. I had a VAFCII for a while, and even with 24 tuning points it was difficult to get it perfect.
Generally, if you are getting a lean spike 100 rpms after an area, you should add a small amount of fuel to the area that comes directly before it. That worked for me.
Generally, if you are getting a lean spike 100 rpms after an area, you should add a small amount of fuel to the area that comes directly before it. That worked for me.
I'll try what you suggested here. The problem with that is that the areas just before the lean spikes are 12.8-13.0, and the lean spikes go up to 13.6 or 13.7.......so I can't really add fuel to the areas before the spikes because they're already getting pretty rich.
Last edited by jowo9; 12-26-2010 at 05:47 PM.
12-26-2010, 05:49 PM
#54
12-26-2010, 05:50 PM
#55
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I would have never thought DE-K injectors fit. Huh, I might have to consider that.
I've run a 130 (crank) shot with only -2 timing removed via ConsultII and Meth injection. I actually don't know if it was a 130 shot since I leaned out the fuel jet by about .6 (smaller) to get the A/F from the single digits to 11.5-12.0:1.
But that acceleration run looks pretty good.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/alti...est_643839.htm
Here's mine.
I've run a 130 (crank) shot with only -2 timing removed via ConsultII and Meth injection. I actually don't know if it was a 130 shot since I leaned out the fuel jet by about .6 (smaller) to get the A/F from the single digits to 11.5-12.0:1.
But that acceleration run looks pretty good.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/alti...est_643839.htm
Here's mine.
12-26-2010, 05:51 PM
#56
I would have never thought DE-K injectors fit. Huh, I might have to consider that.
I've run a 130 (crank) shot with only -2 timing removed via ConsultII and Meth injection. I actually don't know if it was a 130 shot since I leaned out the fuel jet by about .6 (smaller) to get the A/F from the single digits to 11.5-12.0:1.
But that acceleration run looks pretty good.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/alti...est_643839.htm
Here's mine.
I've run a 130 (crank) shot with only -2 timing removed via ConsultII and Meth injection. I actually don't know if it was a 130 shot since I leaned out the fuel jet by about .6 (smaller) to get the A/F from the single digits to 11.5-12.0:1.
But that acceleration run looks pretty good.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/alti...est_643839.htm
Here's mine.
great scott! that's impressive.
12-26-2010, 05:55 PM
#57
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Many cheapo widebands will now interface with the newer version of UTI for the UTEC and the EU software. The tuner was the only one that UTI would use at the time that I bought mine... otherwise I'd be using a ~200 dollar mainstream wideband.
12-26-2010, 05:58 PM
#58
I remember back in my VAFC2 days that it had a cross-over point between Hi-VTEC and lo-VTEC maps. Those cross-over points, if set incorrectly, would put "gaps" in between the fuel corrections and cause those spikes. But I don't know if that's the case for the OP.
12-26-2010, 06:00 PM
#59
Those are Dunlop Direzza DZ101 in 245/40/17. The nitrous requires 275/40/17 NITTO NT05Rs to get all the power down.
I remember back in my VAFC2 days that it had a cross-over point between Hi-VTEC and lo-VTEC maps. Those cross-over points, if set incorrectly, would put "gaps" in between the fuel corrections and cause those spikes. But I don't know if that's the case for the OP.
I remember back in my VAFC2 days that it had a cross-over point between Hi-VTEC and lo-VTEC maps. Those cross-over points, if set incorrectly, would put "gaps" in between the fuel corrections and cause those spikes. But I don't know if that's the case for the OP.
12-26-2010, 06:02 PM
#60
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Those are Dunlop Direzza DZ101 in 245/40/17. The nitrous requires 275/40/17 NITTO NT05Rs to get all the power down.
I remember back in my VAFC2 days that it had a cross-over point between Hi-VTEC and lo-VTEC maps. Those cross-over points, if set incorrectly, would put "gaps" in between the fuel corrections and cause those spikes. But I don't know if that's the case for the OP.
I remember back in my VAFC2 days that it had a cross-over point between Hi-VTEC and lo-VTEC maps. Those cross-over points, if set incorrectly, would put "gaps" in between the fuel corrections and cause those spikes. But I don't know if that's the case for the OP.
Any track times N/A or spraying?
12-26-2010, 06:06 PM
#61
I've been fully hooking for pretty easy 1.8 '60 foots on Hoosier 225/50/15 drag radials... Only had a little practice launching on them, 1.7s are certainly possible. But they are basically slicks with grooves, quite a bit more sticky than the Nittos.
Any track times N/A or spraying?
Any track times N/A or spraying?
jowo- your best bet is to switch that LVT map over to 100rpm increments. What's the lowest RPM you have it set too?
12-26-2010, 06:11 PM
#62
Best I've run N/A is 14.2 @ 100MPH with a 2.4 60' on Hoosiers in 275/40/17. Borrowed them off my friend's LS2 GTO. Only made two passes so not enough time to get the hang of it. Bogged both times. I have yet to make a full nitrous run down the track, so no go on that. But this season I'm hoping to go to the track on the fogger setup.
12-26-2010, 06:22 PM
#65
12-26-2010, 06:23 PM
#66
Ah! N/A to N/A, yeah. Lol.
I should also mention that 14.2 @ 100 was on the decreased timing and two-step colder plugs gapped at .038. Which isn't too far from stock (.044) but still hurts overall N/A performance. I'm more concerned with the nitrous anyway. As long as the engine is happy on juice, I'm happy. The video isn't a good judge of it's current performance because that was with: SSIM, 3" single exhaust, XS/SSAC headers, 2.5" y-pipe w/ 2.5" magnaflow cat, Technosquare F-Spec ECU Reflash and other various things. So it's gotten considerably slower N/A since I've had to remove the ECU to pursue nitrous.
If I had my way, I would have kept my 4AT Altima (I've owned two, traded in 4AT for 5MT) and built the transmission up. Much easier to work with on juice. Dual-stage, launch off a 30 shot and then the rest right after getting out of the hole. Would need some rather stout reinforcing on the transmission, but much easier to work with then the 5spd.
I should also mention that 14.2 @ 100 was on the decreased timing and two-step colder plugs gapped at .038. Which isn't too far from stock (.044) but still hurts overall N/A performance. I'm more concerned with the nitrous anyway. As long as the engine is happy on juice, I'm happy. The video isn't a good judge of it's current performance because that was with: SSIM, 3" single exhaust, XS/SSAC headers, 2.5" y-pipe w/ 2.5" magnaflow cat, Technosquare F-Spec ECU Reflash and other various things. So it's gotten considerably slower N/A since I've had to remove the ECU to pursue nitrous.
If I had my way, I would have kept my 4AT Altima (I've owned two, traded in 4AT for 5MT) and built the transmission up. Much easier to work with on juice. Dual-stage, launch off a 30 shot and then the rest right after getting out of the hole. Would need some rather stout reinforcing on the transmission, but much easier to work with then the 5spd.
12-26-2010, 06:26 PM
#67
Ah! N/A to N/A, yeah. Lol.
I should also mention that 14.2 @ 100 was on the decreased timing and two-step colder plugs gapped at .038. Which isn't too far from stock (.044) but still hurts overall N/A performance. I'm more concerned with the nitrous anyway. As long as the engine is happy on juice, I'm happy.
If I had my way, I would have kept my 4AT Altima (I've owned two, traded in 4AT for 5MT) and built the transmission up. Much easier to work with on juice. Dual-stage, launch off a 30 shot and then the rest right after getting out of the hole. Would need some rather stout reinforcing on the transmission, but much easier to work with then the 5spd.
I should also mention that 14.2 @ 100 was on the decreased timing and two-step colder plugs gapped at .038. Which isn't too far from stock (.044) but still hurts overall N/A performance. I'm more concerned with the nitrous anyway. As long as the engine is happy on juice, I'm happy.
If I had my way, I would have kept my 4AT Altima (I've owned two, traded in 4AT for 5MT) and built the transmission up. Much easier to work with on juice. Dual-stage, launch off a 30 shot and then the rest right after getting out of the hole. Would need some rather stout reinforcing on the transmission, but much easier to work with then the 5spd.
verry verry true!
I ran the same time with 19" and runflats lol. give me radials and its game over, my BBK kinda limits me in wheel setups.
12-26-2010, 06:28 PM
#68
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Best I've run N/A is 14.2 @ 100MPH with a 2.4 60' on Hoosiers in 275/40/17. Borrowed them off my friend's LS2 GTO. Only made two passes so not enough time to get the hang of it. Bogged both times. I have yet to make a full nitrous run down the track, so no go on that. But this season I'm hoping to go to the track on the fogger setup.
jowo- your best bet is to switch that LVT map over to 100rpm increments. What's the lowest RPM you have it set too?
jowo- your best bet is to switch that LVT map over to 100rpm increments. What's the lowest RPM you have it set too?
With the 75 shot I was able to just launch it hard, let the clutch grab as quickly as possible then floor it for the activation.
I'm in a similar situation on no time to learn with my DRs thus far... Only 6 runs total on them since I bought them. Had 3 different track days get cancelled this season
By the way, Jowo, I find that the stock ECU runs pretty good A/F from around 3000-3500 without much intervention on my part. Maybe you could start tuning more around 3500.
12-26-2010, 06:29 PM
#69
Yeah, I know how you feel. I'm running SE-R brakes (same thing as the 6th gen BBK) so I'm limited to 17" rims.
Yeah, the tires definitely aren't helping. I just need more seat time! I seem to always base my launches on the track from experience on the street. But they're two very different animals. I can outlaunch RWD cars on the street without much hesitation but on the track.. it will bog. Just annoying. I usually have to remind myself that I'm not on the street when at the track, lol.
Another thing I've thought about is swapping the 4.133 gears from the 6th gen 6spd into the 5spd. It would hurt freeway cruise, but help in acceleration.
Anything new with your nitrous kit? Still at the 75?
Yeah those are some pretty tall tires and you're already running with a longer first gear with the 5-speed (even though the 5-speed is superior for the 1/4 mile, I am jealous of your gearing) so that makes an easy situation to bog. If you see the launches in my sig, I'm basically launching off redline and still slipping a little bit to avoid a bog.
With the 75 shot I was able to just launch it hard, let the clutch grab as quickly as possible then floor it for the activation.
I'm in a similar situation on no time to learn with my DRs thus far... Only 6 runs total on them since I bought them. Had 3 different track days get cancelled this season
By the way, Jowo, I find that the stock ECU runs pretty good A/F from around 3000-3500 without much intervention on my part. Maybe you could start tuning more around 3500.
With the 75 shot I was able to just launch it hard, let the clutch grab as quickly as possible then floor it for the activation.
I'm in a similar situation on no time to learn with my DRs thus far... Only 6 runs total on them since I bought them. Had 3 different track days get cancelled this season
By the way, Jowo, I find that the stock ECU runs pretty good A/F from around 3000-3500 without much intervention on my part. Maybe you could start tuning more around 3500.
Another thing I've thought about is swapping the 4.133 gears from the 6th gen 6spd into the 5spd. It would hurt freeway cruise, but help in acceleration.
Anything new with your nitrous kit? Still at the 75?
Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; 12-26-2010 at 06:37 PM.
12-26-2010, 06:32 PM
#70
12-26-2010, 06:33 PM
#71
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BBK fronts, you could run some nice short 23-23.5" tires and make your 3rd gear end around 105-110 and be PERFECT for N/A. Or the 24-24.5" like mine are and be perfect for nitrous. But nooo.... You really needed that reduction in brake fade (since we know the stopping power increase is negligible over stockers with good fluid and pads) and looks. Yeah I give KingJames crap over his BBK all the time, too. 
15" wheels in the front > all for drag racing these cars, especially autos. I'd even wish I could fit 14" wheels with a 4AT.
12-26-2010, 06:39 PM
#72
If you didn't have those BBK fronts, you could run some nice short 23-23.5" tires and make your 3rd gear end around 105-110 and be PERFECT for N/A. Or the 24-24.5" like mine are and be perfect for nitrous. But nooo.... You really needed that reduction in brake fade (since we know the stopping power increase is negligible over stockers with good fluid and pads) and looks. Yeah I give KingJames crap over his BBK all the time, too.
15" wheels in the front > all for drag racing these cars, especially autos. I'd even wish I could fit 14" wheels with a 4AT.
BBK fronts, you could run some nice short 23-23.5" tires and make your 3rd gear end around 105-110 and be PERFECT for N/A. Or the 24-24.5" like mine are and be perfect for nitrous. But nooo.... You really needed that reduction in brake fade (since we know the stopping power increase is negligible over stockers with good fluid and pads) and looks. Yeah I give KingJames crap over his BBK all the time, too. 15" wheels in the front > all for drag racing these cars, especially autos. I'd even wish I could fit 14" wheels with a 4AT.
hahaha. I get it all the time! But it looks so good!
I wish I had the stockers still I can swap for track and run 15s lol
12-26-2010, 08:37 PM
#75
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So I went out with the intention of getting a quick 20-110ish acceleration video, but it's cold enough out that I can't get traction below 60 on the highway. So instead, I did a little snow burnout and 
'd the limiter a little bit. I was only letting it kiss the stock limiter at 6600, though, the UTEC doesn't extend the limiter until I'm over 60% throttle. (don't need any speeches about the rev limiter, I've hit it many times doing burnouts at the track and missing shifts, it's there for a reason).
'd the limiter a little bit. I was only letting it kiss the stock limiter at 6600, though, the UTEC doesn't extend the limiter until I'm over 60% throttle. (don't need any speeches about the rev limiter, I've hit it many times doing burnouts at the track and missing shifts, it's there for a reason).Last edited by sparks03max; 12-26-2010 at 08:45 PM.
