Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Hey all,

So I did a bit of reading through some other threads, since I know this seems to be an especially active topic this time of year, but it doesn't seem that anyone has come up with anything completely conclusive, or that the issues aren't quite the same as the ones I'm having.

Anyway: I've been having an issue with a continually reappearing P0300 code. At first, this was the only code the car would throw, and eventually, in a drive cycle or two, it would go away.

Now, about a week ago, I had a P0011 code appear, so I figured that was what was triggering my P0300 code. Now I know I've read up that faulty CPSs can potentially trigger the IVT code, so I went to the stealership and asked about the TSB on the faulty CPSs. Their response was to tell me they would need $95 for an hour's diagnostic, as well as $295 for parts and labor if it was indeed a bad cam sensor.

After telling them to take a hike, I decided to replace the Bank 1 sensor myself. By that time, however, I was also throwing a P0021 code. So I went ahead and replaced the Bank 2 sensor as well. Erased the codes, and the car went for about a day and a half, and low and behold, the Bank 1 code was back, along with a pending Bank 2 code.

Now, for the most part, the car drives perfectly. Smooth acceleration, and no loss of power, as far as I can tell. On the other hand, though, I have had a few misfire issues where the car will start choking itself out if left to idle for 10 minutes or so, but it clears right up if the car is revved slightly.

I've also had the car stall once on me at a red light, and had it buck while going down the road tonight while in 6th gear (it felt like the car fell flat on its face...I let off the gas and hit it again, and everything felt fine after that). The newest issue to start (today) was occasional hard starts, but it's only happened two or three times of the probably eight to ten I've started my car today.

There are a few things I'm trying to figure out, and I was hoping someone could provide some input...

1.) I bought AutoZone cam sensors (I know I'm going to get heat for this, but it was all I could afford right now). What are the odds that these things were fried right out of the box...? I'm going to call DaveB at some point and see if I can pick up a set of OEM sensors...I've never had much lucky with Duralast parts, excepting some of their basic mechanical parts, I suppose.

2.) If the issue winds up being (a) faulty IVT solenoids, is it possible to attempt to clean and re-install the old solenoids, or are they the kind of part that once it's gone, it's gone? I'd rather try to save myself some money if I could.

3.) When skimming through Direct Hit at my buddy's shop, a few fixes mentioned low oil pressure or a bad cam sprocket triggering this issue...anyone ever experience this? I don't see how I could possibly have any oil pressure issues. My oil indicator flickers a few times at startup just like any other Nissan, and then stays off. I suppose I could perform a pressure test somehow...

I know the car did run low on oil at one point right after I bought it...it was apparently using more oil than I thought, and was almost below the hatching marks on the dipstick when I checked/changed it. (I was used to my 4AT not using any oil, and absentmindedly forgot to check it). Is it possible that sludge in the crank broke loose as a result of the low oil and has clogged the IVT oil passages up?

The only two things I've tried so far are replacing both cam sensors and a SeaFoam treatment for the crank case followed by an oil change. No luck so far.

If I find anything else out, I'll report back, and hopefully we can get some real information on this issue together so that other members down the road don't have to go through what I am.

Any input would be great. I'm almost to the point where I'm thinking I might just pony up the $95 for a diag. from Nissan because this has been a frustrating issue to pinpoint, but I'd really rather avoid it if I could.

Thanks guys,

-Brett

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

Im on the same boat man. p0011 and p0021 is a pain in the ***

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

i had the same issue before with the misfire and all turned out to be my sparks were shot and had to change a coil as well about the sensors check with nissan to see if your car went back to nissan for the cam sensors recall

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

The random stall could be the CPS, (Crank Position Sensor). Yes it is possible to move sludge from deep in the pan up into system if you had run the oil low which will block the narrow passage ways and trigger the P0300 as I believe this to have been the issue I had back in the summer. So far I have not replace any parts I did get the engine flushed and had done a number of oil changes at the 2,000km mark so far the P0300 has not returned and the car is running strong. As I knew I was going to be doing a number of oil changes over a short period of time I did switch to Dino oil to help on the cost factor, I will switch back to synthetic in the spring.

blue_magicSE

iTrader: (4)

Have the same problem back in november
took it to nissan and had dig. put on the car and it came up p0011 and p0021 fortunate for me i knew one of the service advisors and he didnt charge me.
3 oil changes and 1 seafoam still the same code..
right now it has a misfire and is blowing grey smoke.
So in the spring (hopefully earlier) ill do a comp. test, oil flush, replace cam pos sensors, crank pos sensor, IVT solenoids bank 1 bank 2, replace all the needed coils, plugs and rip out my pre-cats. Hopefully this fixes the problem, if not im looking for a new 3.5.
I agree Brett i ran it low on oil and its sludge that gets up inside the IVT solenoids and gets clogged.
Although my service advisor says he seen these codes a few times and he said it may be better to replace the whole engine rather than the cost of all these parts

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

then get another engine and eventually have the same issues...IMO fix the problem or its going to occur, again and again. when you did seafoam...did you change out your plugs?

blue_magicSE

iTrader: (4)

i havent changed out the plugs yet, im still waiting on getting everything together (plugs, coils, sensors) and then going to my mechanics shop to put everything on.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

everytime i've read up on using seafoam (except when putting it in the gas tank) it was said to change out the plugs. just a little FYI to keep on your mind

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the input, guys.

So the car is continuing to do the "fall flat on its face" thing. But it only does it every now and then for about 2 seconds, and then resumes driving.

It bucks almost like it would if you were to let off in 3rd or 4th gear and let the car coast with the clutch closed. Almost like the throttle closes and then opens back up.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

I've been dealing with P0340/P0011/P0021 pending codes for 3 years now. It is so random and seldom that it makes it particularly hard to diagnose. 95% of the time the problem occurs after a cold start and giving the car more than half throttle. I get a couple quick hesitations then it goes into limp home mode. Give it more than 10-15% throttle and it falls on its face. Same if I hit the rev limiter (like when the tires spin on cold pavement and the engine bumps the limiter before the transmission upshifts). Very rarely has it done after a warm start, maybe twice. I pull over, turn off the car, turn it on to pull the codes (but not start) and it is always a P0340 and sometimes also a P0011 and very occasionally I also get a P0021 and they are always pending codes, never an SES light. I turn the ignition off again, restart and it runs fine for the next 1-2 months.

I am diligent about keeping my oil level as close to the full line as possible, I've cleaned the grounds for the IVT solenoids and I've done an engine flush. All three sensors (crank and both cam position) were replaced under warranty and I replaced the bank 1 cam position sensor with a new OEM sensor. With 193,800 miles on the car, I guess I will continue to live with it since it happens so infrequently. Going to need to change plugs soon, may pull the IVT solenoids and see if I can clean the passages out to see if that helps.

Talked to a Nissan tech and he said in the vast majority of cases, the problem is low oil level or sludge in the engine. I believe I have addressed both problems. I wonder if maybe using a thinner oil, like 0W-20 would help-but that is probably way too thin for the miles on my engine.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Well, at this point, my car has gone from occasionally falling on its face to hard starts every time I turn the key. I have to let the starter run for 5 or 6 seconds, let it cool off, and then try again to get the car to start up.

I'm also occasionally experiencing hesitation in 1st gear, almost like the clutch doesn't want to engage. 99% of the time, it grabs dead on, though.

So I guess I'm going to try pulling and cleaning the IVT solenoids tomorrow, and going from there.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

I replaced both camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor and still nothing. Checked for power going to the solenoids and it is good. I guess the last thing to do is get new solenoids. But before I do that, how does one go about cleaning the IVT valve solenoid?

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

I've heard of people taking the solenoids out and spraying them with brake parts cleaner/carburetor cleaner, and then letting them dry thoroughly before you reinstall.

That's what I'm going to try tomorrow. If that along with another round of SeaFoam in the crank in the next 1,000 miles doesn't clear things up, then I'm just going to try replacing them.

I also threw a P0340 code tonight. So apparently the sensor I bought from AutoZone was faulty. I'm getting it replaced under warranty.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Update:

So I pulled my IVT solenoids out and discovered all kinds of black, flaky crap lodged in them, which explains my P0011 and P0021 codes.

Pulled them apart and cleaned them up (extremely easy to do...takes about an hour to do both) and tested them with a PowerProbe. Both are functioning properly. Put them back together, reinstalled, cleared the codes, and neither have come back.

However, I'm getting a P0340 pending immediately at startup every time now. Popped my old cam sensor back in, along with the new cam sensor that AutoZone replaced under warranty and still got the pending code.

Tomorrow's job will be pulling the valve cover on the front bank and seeing if this same black flake that locked up my solenoids is what's causing the cam sensor issue.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

I took the front one off. Applied battery voltage it to see how the solenoid was operating. It clicked but I didnt think it actually moved like it should. Regardless, I took it inside and took it apart, sprayed it everywhere with some brake parts cleaner, WD-40 and some kind of penetrating and lubricating oil lol. I then took it back to the car and applied 12v to it again and NOW when the solenoid was activating it was MUCH louder than before (the first time the valve was still in the housing thing with the little holes in it, if that makes a difference). Of course, I saw the shaft inside moving. I reassembled everything and started the car, let it run for a lil bit, rev'ed it a bit too and shut off for at least 10 sec and I basically cycled about 3 times to see if the one of the P0011/ P0021(not sure which one is for the front) codes would stop reappearing because I just cleaned one and it seemed fully operational. It didnt help, both codes still came back. But not on the first start after I cleared the codes, maybe on the 2nd or 3rd... Few days ago I just put in some fresh 5w30 and the oil level is at the top of the crosshatching. I will try cleaning the back one next, but in the meantime will probably order some new valves. Like I've said in previous post I already have new aftermarket crankshaft and both camshaft sensors from Oreilly Auto Parts. Don't know what else I could do... AHHHHH!!

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

My SES light is back on now after everything. And I'm still having my hard start issues. So I'll pull the codes tomorrow and see what codes have popped back up.

My next step is to run a quart of tranny fluid through the oiling system before I change my oil to help break everything up and then try and flush it.

aspen

Hi Mr.Brett, do you know anywhere I can find teaching how to remove the solenoids and clean? Last week I used Engine Restorer since my engine burns oil (2003 AT) but after a few miles my car started to shake and SES was on. I got some help from the forum to use seam foam to clean the engine, now the car is much better but still has a rough idle and P0011 and P0300 codes. It looks like seam foam didn't clean enough. I was wondering to take solenoid out for a thorough clean. For the camshaft position sensor, do I have to change to a new one? Thanks a lot.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

Aspen, the way I cleaned mine was remove the 3 bolts holding it to the engine, then you remove the 1 bolt holding the valve to the housing. You pull apart the housing (silver) from the gold cap with the plug. If you have trouble put a flathead inbetween and twist (theres a rubber o-ring that is basically making it difficult), once that puts out you can pull the whole valve out with your hands. Then I used some brake parts cleaner to clean the inside of the housing. Then brake parts cleaner and WD40 next (from the can (pressurized)) and sprayed it all over and around and in the crevices of the valve. I let it dry somewhat and just reassemble it.

aspen

Thanks a lot, Lime monster. Since I am kind of new with those DIY, any pics you could show me where the solenoid is on the engine? Or should I be able to find the on the TSB manual? Hopefully I didn't ask too much. Thanks again.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

The solenoid sits right on top of the engine, directly next to the timing cover. It has a brown plug running to it. It's a gold, cylindrical object.

So I (finally) traced what was causing my P0340 code.

Pulled my front valve cover off today, and found all kinds of wonderful black crap (the same stuff that clogged up my IVT solenoids!) sticking to the valve cover walls.

I also found all kinds of carbon build-up on my cams, including around the teeth that the cam sensor reads. This is what was preventing the magnet in the sensor from reading, and triggering the code. The carbon was causing an improper reading. So I carefully took a small metal pick and cleaned all of the carbon off of the end of the intake cam. Scraped all the black, flaky carbon off of the VC walls, sprayed them down with brake cleaner, and blew it off with an air nozzle.

Reassembled and fired the car up. It's still not perfect, but it starts much easier now. And the P0340 code has gone away.

Next step will be to pull the rear valve cover and do the same. I'll take pictures and explain how to do it with the rear cover (I was rushed, so I couldn't today), so that anyone else that wants to do this can. It's really pretty straight-forward. It took me all of an hour to clean the valve cover and scrape the carbon off of the cam teeth.

blue_magicSE

iTrader: (4)

I believe P0021 is the bank closest to the rad and P0011 is closest to the firewall.

blue_magicSE

iTrader: (4)

Anyone experiencing a white smoke coming from their exhaust while having these codes?

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

You've got them backwards. P0011 is the front three...near the rad.

No white smoke here. If you've got white smoke issues, I'd say you're getting coolant into your engine, which probably means the oil/coolant mixture is gumming up your solenoids...

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

So the code is back. Again.

Still having a hard start issue, and throwing the P0340 code. So I don't know what to think. I'll be headed to Nissan tomorrow to ask about the recall and see if it's been taken care of by the PO or not.

If it has, well, back to the drawing board.

vqmaxman

How is the compression, Do a compression test and Check the plugs for gunk of oil. If you discover these symptoms low compression,oily plugs your in for new engine. Do have any black smoke coming out the exhaust. Cross your fingers and hope thats not the case. goodluck

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

This is the one in the front of the engine when you open the hood. The other one is mirrored on the back side of the engine.

http://forums.maxima.org/7798339-post2.html

aspen

Thanks Lime monster. Today when I drove back to home, the engine suddenly became much smoother during idle. Maybe sea foam is continuing working. I will check tomorrow again. If it is still good, I will get the code removed and see whether they come back.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

No black or blue smoke, but the car does burn very rich for the first 5-10 seconds after startup (obviously since it's getting fuel in the cylinders, but no ignition).

So I started my car tonight, started after two cycles of the starter. As I let it sit there and idle, out of the blue, the car choked and stalled. Then it started giving me trouble with a hard start again.

One thing I have noticed is that as I crank and crank the starter, my oil light on the dash stays on, and will all of a sudden casually flicker and go out. Give the car a second or two to rest, and three or four more cranks, and the car will fire up.

I'm starting to wonder if I have an oil pressure issue that's triggering the oil pressure sensor, or (hopefully NOT) a bad oil pump that's preventing the oil from reaching the proper pressure at startup until the car has cranked a few times.

On that same note, I'm also wondering if the same black crap I scraped off of the valve covers is causing the oil pressure sensor to clog up, and therefore keeping the car from starting until the black stuff is cleared free from the sensor and it detects oil pressure.

Do our cars even have a safety switch for oil pressure to prevent a potential dry start?

If I don't get this sorted out soon, I may just pull the motor and begin tearing it down bit by bit. I've got a backup car I can drive for the time being until I sort this out if I have to.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

Update: I "cleaned" and tested with 12v both IVT valves today and they seemed fully functional. I reinstalled them and did a few engine on/off cycles. And this time the codes didnt come back till many tries later(not on the 3rd like I wrote before). Regardless, they are back AGAIN.

Heres something else I tried. I know its bad for the motor, but as soon as I started from a cold start (let it run for about 1 min), I floored it down street. The car certainly had it FULL horsepower working for sure. Throttle was super responsive as it should be. I did it for 2 more streets and then I felt the car basically go into limp - safe mode(once it warmed up I suppose), but the CEL did not come on till a few more laps around the neighborhood. The throttle felt terrible. I press it and it bogs/ chokes then kicks in, although not as powerful as when cold...

Tomorrow I'll pull the valve covers and see what going on... I also ordered an oil pressure gauge.

vqmaxman

I would reccomend a seafoam and try to see if that will help out with the congestion and the gunk crap that's in oil pump. Have checked to see where the oil level was on the dipstick because the oil consumption is one thing that these 3.5's are suffering from and if you don't have the oil burning/consumption on the 3.5 than check the oil level because if you were at a full mark but the car running as the way your describing and the oil mark on the dipstick is not at the full mark and or it's at the add mark or where it's supposed to be than the oil pump can be the culprit of your problems. If the seafoam doesn't fix it and if it's the pump try replacing it. goodluck.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

I've already done a SeaFoam scrubbing, and I think it actually made it worse...I didn't start having a hard start issue until I ran the SeaFoam. So my assumption is that it actually did its job, and the broken up black crap is creating issues.

I think it's just a matter of doing oil changes every 2,000-2,500 miles, keeping my oil level up, and maybe running a quart of ATF through the crank once or twice to break everything up until my issues clear up now.

The car runs too well once it's warm to be any serious issues. So I'm assuming it just needs to be driven.

vqmaxman

Just to be sure your not having hot/cold starting issues that can be a ECST if so, I am sure if you thought about a motor flush and try synthetic and see how it runs.
Is there any codes there?

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

So I plugged in my new cam sensor, and the car starts up much better. So I'm guessing I must've had a bad sensor after all.

The car still complains ever so slightly about starting, but it doesn't take 10-12 seconds like it did. Now it's down to 3-4.

SES light is still on, so I don't know if it'll take a drive cycle to turn off, or if there's still some underlying issues I need to clear up...

I did notice tonight when I was listening to my car idle that there's an ever so slight "tick-tick-tick" coming from one of my valves, which leads me to believe I'm still either having oil pressure issues or that the black crap is clogging up around the valves.

I plan on continuing to drive the car run, keeping the oil topped off, and seeing if things clear up. If not, I'll run some ATF through the crank and see if that helps.

And if not, well. We go from there.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Wow, you just beat my update by a second.

An EC..what? Sorry...n00b moment.

I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic right now, so I'm sure that'll help out a bit.

As far as remaining codes, the only one that's still showing up on the car is the P0340 code. So once the car completes a drive cycle, I'll see if it disappears or not.

I might just replace the crank sensor, too, since I know all three sensors have a tendency to go at the same time. Just to see if it helps out.

vqmaxman

I was thinking about the motor flush that will be your best bet. The car has to be cold and the car has not been started in 24 hrs and dump it in the crankcase and let it warmup to 5min with no reving or anything like that, hopefully that will do the trick and don't forget about the code and reseting the SES light.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

OK so I installed oil pressure gauge. It reads 18 psi at hot idle and 43 psi at hot 2000 RPMs. So this is well within range of FSM spec. Should I even bother dropping the lower oil pan to check for sludge build-up on the strainer after this reading?

My next move would be to replace both the IVT solenoid valves and see what happens...(if this doesnt work, Im pretty much out of options besides getting another motor?!?!)


By the way anyone experience anything such as random engine shut-downs after going WOT and pressing the clutch in??

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

I've had that sort of happen at WOT and hitting the rev limiter. Engine doesn't shut down but it goes into a limp home mode and I have at least a pending P0340 and sometimes a P0011 and less often, a P0021 code.

Might swap out the IVT solenoids when I change plugs since the intake has to come off to get the bank 1 solenoid off.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

It doesn't. I took my rear IVT solenoid off to clean it without taking off the intake manifold. But of course since you're doing the plugs, it will be a lot easier.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Guess I didn't look closely enough at it. At first glance, it appears the intake would prevent it from being removed. Thanks for the tip.

vqmaxman

I was thinking to my self here, has anyone tried to check there wirings and the connections and there ECU, It can be that theres something that was fried.

I know had codes on my caravan and I was throwing parts at It and doing what my obd2 scanner was suggesting and I would get it to reset the codes and it would work but the codes and the problems came back.
I was testing the sensors and the wires when I came a cross the wires The car would cutoff and give me a hard time starting it and If I was lucky my car would start then I would have to rev it as if I was the ECU controlling the RPMS steady at the 1500 If I didn't It would cutoff on me. The soultion to my problem was a new fuel rail injector wires and the main wire harness connected to the ECU to the electrical parts of the wires.
I also have friend that has an 02 max and he was experiencing what you guys were experiencing plus the codes p0011 and the p300 multiple missfires and I did the front cam sensor to the bank1 and the plugs but when I got the the plugs they were all caked with black charcoal oil and I knew he blew a headgasket because he also was smoking up the whole neighboorhood. He lost some serious power no pick up or burn outs what so ever.