Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Since in my case, the majority of the time I have the problem is when the engine is still cold makes me think there must be some obstruction in the IVT solenoid passages (despite an oil system flush) that is made worse by cold, thick oil flowing through them.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

Odd, my case is the exact opposite! When cold-start and flooring it down the street the power is there. Otherwise when its warmed up, its dead on responsiveness. (I've tried this only once so far... cold start and flooring part)

blue_magicSE

iTrader: (4)

Same problem here lime monster. Reduced power after its warmed up.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

FINALLY got my car fixed.

Took it to Crawford Z-Car in Nashville, and it turns out that I had two faulty cam sensors, both the AutoZone ones I bought.

Put the old OEM ones back in, car runs like brand new. Turns out that my cam sensors were never bad. What happened was when the P0011/P0021 codes triggered, my IVT solenoids were so gummed up with junk that they stopped working altogether, causing my cam sensors to get an improper reading, thus also triggering the cam sensor codes.

I'll be taking the AutoZone cam sensors back today, and that should just about cover my diagnostic fees from Crawford.

Money well-spent I suppose.

I'm still going to provide a write-up with pictures on how to clean your IVT solenoids for anyone that's still unsure, since I think this is probably something that would be beneficial to everyone in the long run, no matter how clean your engine is.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Contrary to popular belief, oil is actually thinner cold than it is once it warms up.

So it may be the thinner oil taking longer to build proper pressure through the IVT solenoids? That's my best guess.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

It sure doesn't flow better when cold. Maybe a thinner weight, but it won't flow as well as when warmed up. Just seeing how oil pours out of a bottle when it is 35 vs 100, it is pretty obvious the flow characteristics are different.

LETINES

Oil is actually thinner cold ? Where did you get that information. I'm no expert and did not major in physics or chemistry but I think you better check you source on that one.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

I think he means using a variable weight oil like 5W-30. At cold temperatures, the weight is variable and will be at 5 (which is thinner) rather than at 30 weight. Technically that is true, but regardless of oil weight, it doesn't flow as well cold as it does hot.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Additives in any street motor oil you use screw with its chemical compounds and make it thinner when it's cold to reduce the risk of scarring/spinning of moving parts on a cold start. Once the oil warms, those some additives make it "harden," per se, to prevent it from thinning too much, which could also cause damage.

That's why 5w-30 is suggested in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer, for example. 5w is thinner in the cold, and thus moves more freely.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

...but it is still pretty thick when cold, just not as thick is it would be if it was straight 30 weight.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I ordered some used IVT valves from another member, I tested them with 12v and they looked good (clicked and moved just like mine...) Regardless, I installed the new IVT solenoids that just came in. Later I warmed the car up at idle for like 30 min. Then I let it sit for like 45 min, after which I got in, started it and floored it down the street. TORQUE MONSTER! but just like before(refer to my previous post), went like 3 blocks of flooring it and then I guess the car warmed up or something and it goes limp. (can someone explain what modes or w/e the ecu goes into when the car is warmed up?)

Side note: I also installed a new coolant temperature sensor. In hopes of fixing random stalling. Dont think it worked because it stalled again.

Next thing on the list:
1. I will try another ECU and see what happens.
2. Exchange both camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensors (just bought all 3 new from auto parts store) in hopes that maybe one is faulty.
3. Try new engine harness.

vqmaxman

I think if you can just check the ECTS, If I can remember That the car cuts off once it's warm that's related to the ECTS. I would try that first before you do the other things as you listed GL.

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

I wish I would have read this thread sooner.

I has the same thing happen on a Pathfinder some time ago. PO011 and PO012. Cam sensors and solenoids were replaced and still no cigar. Flushed the engine with ATF and dislodged actuators and problem solved.

And yes. Auto Zone sensors are garbage, garbage, garbage.

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

Flushing with ATF? hmm, I havent done that but I did pour a quart of marvel mystery oil in with another fresh 4 quarts of 5w-30... Its still looking brand new on the dip stick which is at the very top of the cross-hatching.

What are you referring to when you say actuators?

NismoAce

iTrader: (6)

With the possibility of the passages leading up to these solenoids getting clogged, could we somehow clean these out? Like pressurized air back down the line along with removing the oil pan? Or even someone pressurized air from below to try to push things out when the solenoid is removed? I also think the rear top head could use some help on the drainage. I think too much oil builds up there allowing our pcv to act as a straw filling up my catch can faster then I can drain it and I am pretty sure thats where my oil is going and possibly not past my rings.

I just recently removed my catch can after some thought about what may have been causing issues for me. My af ratio for my rear bank was constantly over 10. I think the oil catch held a reserve for my intake to pull from when I accelerated hard. So lots of oil into intake at one chance instead of a constant steady flow of oil into the intake. Since removal my front and rear air fuel ratio has leveled out and I am getting better gas millage. I got the p0011 again but thats when my oil level went low again. Its only poping a light when I let the oil get low. I think my multiple seam foam cleaning has helped but I think there is still blockages.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

There's not really any way that I know of that you can use to clean out the passages other than some ATF. I suppose you could try using an air hose or something on the passages to see if that helps. You don't necessarily have to drop the oil pan, but I can guarantee you that blowing pressurized air into the IVT passages on the heads will be messy. You could maybe drain the old oil, and do it with the pan plug removed to keep any oil from blowing out of the other IVT passages.

Honestly, if you remove the IVT solenoid and see oil start running out of the passages, you probably don't have any clogging issues. Have you tried breaking down and cleaning up the solenoids themselves?

NismoAce

iTrader: (6)

I have not done that yet. Nissan told me they were fine after a diag. But they suck. I will try this. Was just thinking what you guys thought about cleaning as well. I am dying to do a bunch of work to my car but it is way to cold here in new england and lots of snow. up to a foot tonight when we had a few inches earlier today and roads are still not free of previous storms.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Take your IVT solenoids off the car and clean them up good. It's even something you can do inside out of the elements.

It takes maybe an hour tops to do the front and rear bank. The IVTs may have been functioning when Nissan diaged them, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they were getting a proper oil pressure reading.

Trust me, when I pulled mine apart and cleaned them, even though they worked the way they were supposed to when a current was applied to them, they were clogged up with all kinds of black carbon crap. Cleaned them with brake parts cleaner, put them back together, and both of my codes went away.

NISSANSENIORTECH

some of you said that you let the oil get low and some signs of sludge are found within your engines well ive workd in a nissan dealer for five years and i own a 00 max gle/3.5 swap myself (favorite car in the world) and weve come across quite a few of these rarely the harness mostly coils need be replaced with cam and crank sensors OEM preferred due to ive had friggin brand new autozone thermostats fail out of the box so no JUNK parts people please...but ive actually come across myself in which ive diagnosed that some people actually screwed up there intake timing gear itself from allowing starvation of oil and from the sludge build up in the oil ports have any of you had your timing covers off for any reason either jus another Question... because replacement of the IVT seals on front cover are a must when pulled apart to insure proper oil pressure throughout the intake cam timing system....seen techs personally have to rip the cover off again because the timing area rattled so bad due to not replacing those seals...just posting my two scents thats all and thanks for reading

NismoAce

iTrader: (6)

For the do it yourselfer how would we be able to tell if our intake cam gear is screwed up? Is it mostly both banks or specifically one? Could this be the tick I and someone else that posted hears? My cars power has gone to **** and ever now and then its even worse then the ****.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

What seals on the IVT are you talking about? The solenoid's o-rings? There weren't any seals where the solenoids mated to the heads. And the only seal I had to replace was the valve cover seal when I pulled the valve cover off...

mrfxho

iTrader: (1)

Any write up yet Mr. Brett???

Just came back from the autozone after putting my car on there lil computer and came back a P0011 error, Intake Vavel timing.

Said that probably cause might be:

1. IVT control solenoid open or shorted
2. Cam/crank sensors out of phase
3. Dirt buildup at control valve

So what quick step do you think I can do to fix this issue. and if you have any pics of what is what I would really appreciate it, bc im a visual learner and i get lost reading lmao

thks,
luis

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

I put pressurized air though the holes under the IVT valves and there was straight up s h it-like gunk comming out. It was definately messy. But I have a good feeling about it. Will update after I finish putting the transmssion back on.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Unfortunately, not yet. I've been really busy with school. I should have some time this weekend to do a writeup.

As far as quick-fix, short of pulling off the IVT or putting a new one on, there isn't much you can do. Is the car having hard-starting issues?

Lime monster: Thanks for the heads up. I may just try that during my next oil change, just to see what happens.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Hey, guys.

I just realized I haven't updated this in a while. At least since I've gotten my car fixed.

Figured I'd bump this up, and let y'all know the IVT Solenoid writeup is still coming. I just haven't had time to undertake the whole ordeal...school's been keeping me busy.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Warning: I skipped all the other replies in this thread.

Brett, do you have the crank case breather disconnected from your intake? If you do, but have not also disconnected it on the rear valve cover where it connects to the rear of the intake manifold, then you have a perpetual vacuum leak during warm idle and general low throttle conditions. This could easily cause a rough idle (normally after it's been idling a while) and a misfire code from running too lean.

Just a thought...

viperboy

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, my car is setup like this. Breather on the crank case but still connected in the rear. Just throw a breather on the rear? Can I just unhook it for the time being?

NismoAce

iTrader: (6)

Yeah breather on from and rear and plug up the hole on the intake mani and on the intake piping.

chike

hello friends help me out of the battle now- p0011 . 03 MAXIMA 3.5
i have rade all your comment threads and experience

i have tried all the IVT clean and oil and filter change - only to achieved smoke reduced but i now noticed oil in the radiator water and the water reservior with multiple misfire - p0300,p0200 etc. and the engine oil keeps reduces below point and turns darker.
what is this or what will i try ?

please help.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Last week I was driving home and out of nowhere in traffic - bank 2 IVT causing misfires at idle.

I sprayed out the solenoid and reinstalled (not much of anything came out). The misfire went away, but the IVT code came back. I took it apart again and used brake cleaner gratuitously (let it soak for a bit, too) and sprayed some down the oil passages. She runs perfect, now.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

An idiot drunk fixed my P0340/P0011/P0021 codes by totaling my other 5.5 gen. So far, no problems with my 6MT 5.5 gen. Nice to be able to give it some gas after a cold start if traffic is heavy and I have to take advantage of any break and get on it a bit to get going. I can also now hit the rev limiter without that stupid jerk/bucking crap and then ending up in limp home mode until I can stop, turn off the car, reset the pending code and then start my car again.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I thought that was on the old car

For future reference. then.

billc-

Back from the dead, resuscitating this thread....

I have a 2002 3.5L MT. It has 105,000 miles on it and gets oil changes at 5000 miles on a regular basis. I generally use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 (synthetic). My wife puts on most of the miles, so the car does not get thrashed.

Prepping for a drive from Maryland to Daytona, I changed the oil (this time I used Mobile 1 which was on sale at Costco, and a Nissan filter). I have not changed the plugs yet (due at 100,000). About 500 miles into the drive, the SES light came on. I think I also noticed a slight intermittent roughness at idle as well. Otherwise, the car performed well, showing 30mpg on the tripometer while cruising over 75mph for hours on end. The engine starts normally - without hesitation.

Today, I went to a local Autozone here in Daytona and had them pull the codes. What they came up with was the dreaded P0011 -- Intake valve timing control circuit failure - Bank 1.

My first thought was (with significant trepidation) to take the car to the Nissan dealer here in Daytona and have it checked out. After reading this thread, I am more inclined to drive it home and try cleaning the IVT control valve on the front bank once I get there following the Mr. Brett procedure.

I think it's more likely that I will be able to get home without intervention while here in Florida than it is likely that the dealer will properly fix the car without ripping me off.

Am I making the correct assessment?
Is there a reliable mechanic here in Daytona/Ormond who could be trusted to perform the operation at a reasonable cost?
Did Mr. Brett ever post a detailed procedure as he indicated he might?

Thanks for any input. I'm driving home this weekend, so I have a few days to work this out.

Bill

billc-

I made it home from Daytona Beach. 800+ miles in one day. The SES light went out after 300 miles of driving but came back at 500 miles. The car ran fine - no issues with the way it drove.

I went to Autozone today to pull the codes and got the same P0011 code again plus a P0138 for a downstream O2 sensor. I decided to start with cleaning the Bank 1 IVT solenoid. Here is a picture of the solenoid and valve -- it's located next to the oil filler cap under the ornamental engine cover. I used a small screw driver as pictured to free up the locking tab on the electrical connection.



There is one bolt holding the solenoid in the body of the valve and 3 more holding the body of the valve to the head. All are 10mm and easily removed. The solenoid slides right out after that one bolt on the bottom is removed.

Here is a shot of the solenoid after I pulled it from the valve body and laid it on top of the engine.



The solenoid valve has a rubber O-ring and 2 fine mesh barrel screens with rubber or plastic edges. Honestly, I didn't see any gunk or dirt or debris when I pulled the solenoid out. Nonetheless, I cleaned it with WD-40 and let it drain on paper towels. I did not want to use harsh brake cleaner on the plastic and rubber parts. I checked the operation of the solenoid by applying 12V to the terminals. It worked.

Then I removed the body of the valve from the mounting on the head. Here is a shot of the body unbolted and turned over next to its original position.



Note that there is a black synthetic gasket that goes between under the body of the valve. I cleaned the body of the valve with brake cleaner and used pipe cleaners to make sure all of the holes were clear. I found no obstructions or accumulations of dirt. Then I cleared the oil passages in the head with pipe cleaners, blew some WD 40 into them, and finally shot some compressed air into each one. The compressed air caused oil to squirt out of some of the other holes, so be prepared for this if you try to do the same.

I did not remove the gasket from the mounting location for fear of damaging it.

One odd thing that I noticed was that the gasket had a spot where a hole maybe should have been punched in it. You can see this on the left side of the gasket in the picture below -- just under the 2 bolt holes, a little toward the middle of the valve. There is a passage on the body of the valve just above this spot but it is blocked by the gasket. Has anyone else noticed this on their car -- whether there is a hole in the gasket here or not?



Overall, I didn't find any obvious blockages or accumulations of dirt. I put every thing back together, tightened down the bolts to hold, but not too much because they go into aluminum and could easily strip. I reused the black gasket, but still have a question about whether mine needs an extra hole in it. The car drives fine - no leaks are evident at the mounting of the valve.

At this point, I don't know whether I am still throwing the PO011 code or not because of the confounding O2 sensor code. I will try to find out and report back.

billc-

Yesterday morning I downloaded a trial version of Touch Scan which allowed me to read codes from the OBD2 port using my laptop and an ELM connecting cable. When I pulled up the codes, both the cam timing and O2 sensor codes were displayed. I cleared the codes. After two 50-mile drives, the SES light has not yet come back on. I am hoping that the O2 sensor code was an artifact of the the cam timing issue and that both issues are resolved. I will report back if otherwise.

kelseysc

Thanks to BillC for sending me his pictures and to Mr. Brett for being responsive. I got the dreaded P0021 code as well. After reading the thread, I feared the worst. First, I checked my oil level. It was only a quart low so I didn't think that this was the source of the issue. Since it was time for an oil change anyway, and I needed a road force balance as well, I took it in to my mechanic along with fresh Mobil 1 and had him do the oil change for me. He was a Nissan/Infiniti master mechanic for 20 years. He said that this code often occurs with a low oil condition but also typically clears with an oil change (addition) and reset the code for me. He also told me you can often see if you have a "sludgy engine" just by looking in through the oil fill hole.

So far so good. Two days later and around 100 miles and no returning SES light. Just wanted to let folks know to be step-wise on this code and clear the codes at each step. While the guys on this thread have definitely had a very difficult time, sometimes it's just the simple things.

Keep the faith!

Cottonsupra

I posted about these P0011/P0021 in another thread in FEB2012. In time, the codes went away on their own. This time they appeared along with SES after hitting the throttle hard in the mountains. 119,150 miles; It was time for some work anyway. I changed the spark plugs to NGK Iridium IX and changed oil with Royal Purple 10W-30. I added NWP Phenolic Spacer 5 Piece Kit and NWP VIAS Delete Plate while I had everything apart. Deleted the codes with Accutron and they came back within 100 miles. I added SeaFoam to crankcase. Cleaned the IVT Control Solenoids and ports with break cleaner but they seamed pretty clean and working well. Cleared Codes, P0011/P0021/SES came back within 100 miles. Everything seems to be fine, but the codes are pending and SES is lit up. Any suggestions?

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

First step would be to test the IVT solenoids with a power probe to see if they're functioning properly. That is, if you have access to a power probe (I did. If you run a 12v current across them, and they jump open, they're good).

If the codes came back, your solenoids might actually be on their way out. Or you have a faulty sensor.

Come to think of it...I never did get around to a DIY for cleaning the sensors. I guess maybe I should do that...

IanHen

Billc,

Can you fix the pictures please.

hall_stephenk

I recently purchased a 2003 Nissan Altima 3.5SE with the VQ35DE engine. Within a week it stared throwing the P0011 code as well as a P0300 (multi-cylinder misfire). I definitely suspect the P0300 was caused by the P0011. Following Brett's recommendations, I was able to "easily" (based on my comfort level) remove the IVT solenoids and clean them out with WD-40, brake cleaner and compressed air. I went ahead and removed both but Bank 1 (closest the firewall) was definitely the culprit. Even though the solenoid activated when I applied 12V from the battery, the valve was stuck in the "energized" position.

Put it all back together tonight and I sure could tell a difference. No more rough idling and it seemed a fair amount more power. Just smoother all the way around.

For those wondering, I did just change the oil as well. I went with Mobil 1 5w-30 EP since it seemed to be the lightest 30 oil Mobil 1 offers. I'm wondering if the previous owner used a heavier oil and the lighter one moved some stuff around and gummed up the solenoid to the point of sticking.

Hope this helps others try this procedure. Could save you some time and $$$'s!