Originally Posted by sparks03max

I'm sure you could get away with something a little thick like 0w40 Mobile 1. Otherwise, the Z guys give really good reviews of Castrol GTX for a dino oil.

Originally Posted by sparks03max

Have seen decent reviews of the Amsoil products. I was just trying to point out that for the premium you are spending on RP, you could have an oil that performs better in our engines for far cheaper.

Originally Posted by ifti_sit

I personally like Amsoil products..I have am using them for the Transmission.

As it seems you have done a solid background check on the oils for our VQ engines - can u tell me in summary the most rated ones based on the oil review ?
like amsoil > mobil > PP etc..
I dont want to search again..i know u already have it in ur mind so i will take that as a reference.

Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000

Not true. No matter what oil you use moisture will accumulate. You're better off changing your oil more often if you are worried about wear, regardless of type of oil.

That is your opinion, and have offered nothing to back it up. But to give you something to think about... why would a semi-syn offer to run 15,000 before a change interval? hmmmmm?


No one noticed that he listed 2001? Not a VQ35, So the engine specific specs don't apply. Not to mention there were numeous changes made by nissan to that engine during it's production so the results aren't specific anyways, just relative.

Umm yes I did, and about 2 others including yourself. That is why I gave specifics to her engine not a VQ35.

When we did our old research on the VQ30DE on the forums, Mobil 1 was the leader in most aspects.

Have ran it in my 2000, bought new, for 11yrs now. Virtually no oil burn

But I was not aware they changed the formula! I will have to look into this, I've been using it since I the '01, and with my old VQ30 as well. I just assumed it was the best still.......

Again, as you noted, all of them are talking about the VQ35 engines and the UOA they read about on a Z forum... relative? Probalby not here.

Any links to VQ30DE / DE-K analysis' reports?

And on Royal Purple being garbage... And VERY expensive garbage at that.

Originally Posted by homeyclaus

OP, first off, good on you for caring about your car's maintenance. May it serve you well and long in return.

Keep in mind: Maintenance being done is probably more important than the quality of consumables overall. You can game this to death, and be second-guessing every decision for maintenance parts. I don't think it's worth it.


Oil changes:

Any brand-name synthetic will probably be fine. Pennzoil Platinum is probably the best priced one, and as other posters have stated, is just fine. I have no problem using Valvoline synthetic either. Why use synthetic? Because it reduces friction in the engine during a cold start, and that cold start friction causes 80% of engine wear. In addition, synthetic lubricants support longer maintenance intervals, or offer more peace of mind at regular intervals, depending on how you look at it.

Based on the Internet, the following oil filters are fine, in no particular order: Nissan OEM, Wix, Napa, Bosch, Mobil 1, Purolator PURE1. The Fram gold-colored ones are also okay according to people who have cut them apart, and tried them, with oil analysis to back them up. Oil change interval is 8,000 miles, although I change mine around 7500 or so. If you're going to change your oil every 15,000 miles, you'll want to use Bosch, Mobil 1, or Purolator's top-shelf part. I'd say 10k is the limit, event he new 0W20-lubed Toyotas draw the line there.

Air Filters: Nissan OEM, Purolator PURE1, are probably the most popular. NGK is fine.

Spark Plugs: Don't use regular plugs - for one, changing them every 25,000 miles is a pain on the Maxima - just use OEM ones (made by NGK, you can get NGK platinums and they're the same) and don't worry about it for another 100k miles.

As a side note, changing the automatic transmission fluid (I used Nissan's fluid, but I hear good things about the Valvoline synthetic that meets Nissan's specs) made my transmission shifting improve noticeably. There is no filter - it's a mesh pickup, so don't let the shop bill you for one.

Originally Posted by sparks03max

I was just trying to point out that for the premium you are spending on RP, you could have an oil that performs better in our engines for far cheaper.

Originally Posted by J-Rod

Changing the plugs on my, and the OP engine... is literally a 30 minute job tops. Absolutely nothing wrong with running coppers for a year, and at a average of $11-$14 a plug for the supposedly better plats & irid.... 30 minutes of my time a year is money well spent.

Originally Posted by trooplewis

I strongly disagree, even on the 5th gen that doesn't require removal of the intake manifold. Why? Because I have been around long enough to know about Murphy's Laws. Every time you change the plugs there are multiple things that can go wrong, so would much rather change once every 100,000 miles than every 15,000 miles or so.

That way you can hopefully avoid
-Stripped threads
-Stuff falling into the cylinders (like the grit that collects around the top of the cylinder)
-Broken clips on the coilpack connectors
-Replacing the boot because it separated when you removed the wire
-All the other stuff that you bump and break when leaning over the rear bank to get to the plugs there
-Broken plugs
-Etc Etc Etc

Originally Posted by sparks03max

Some would disagree with you also. Maybe changing plugs more often would help you learn to avoid mistakes like these. Being careful, methodical, doing the work correctly (this includes knowing exactly what to do) and having the right tools for the job when working on your car will greatly reduce the chances of anything on your list coming true. I've pulled my plugs 20-30 times in the last 50k miles since I bought the car and haven't had a single issue you just named. Rushing the work or failing to complete important steps in the process correctly are the main causes of those kind of issues.

I might also note that changing plugs more often or checking them often for signs of detonation, as has been my case, gives you an opportunity to keep the area clean (so no grit that's built up over the last 100k miles falls in when you do this job) and easier see any signs of oil leakage around the valve covers before it becomes an issue.

Originally Posted by vball_max

Same here ifti_sit.......just wanted to point out that RP is nothing special for the price you are paying. Just trying to help you to save a few bucks.

Great choice on the Amsoil and good luck with it. I assume you are getting it through talkinghorse on here? Ed is great to deal with.....very helpful and very fast with shipping.

Originally Posted by vball_max

Touche......

However, people who do not work on their cars regularly (because of time constraints, etc.) would never want to pull the plugs 20-30 times over 50k miles. The OP doesnt sound like someone who would want to work on their car much, so the more maintenance free solution is probably what she is looking for (i assume that divagal is a she).

So therefore, the platinum or the iridium would likely be the better choice in this case.

Originally Posted by trooplewis

Be as careful as you want, Murphy will find you!

Originally Posted by sparks03max

Some would disagree with you also. Maybe changing plugs more often would help you learn to avoid mistakes like these. Being careful, methodical, doing the work correctly (this includes knowing exactly what to do) and having the right tools for the job when working on your car will greatly reduce the chances of anything on your list coming true. I've pulled my plugs 20-30 times in the last 50k miles since I bought the car and haven't had a single issue you just named. Rushing the work or failing to complete important steps in the process correctly are the main causes of those kind of issues.

I might also note that changing plugs more often or checking them often for signs of detonation, as has been my case, gives you an opportunity to keep the area clean (so no grit that's built up over the last 100k miles falls in when you do this job) and easier see any signs of oil leakage around the valve covers before it becomes an issue.

Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000

Originally Posted by J-Rod

Your welcome.

I'm still waiting on anything to back up what you said. Maybe I should bring into a little easier terms... I didn't say a thing about mositure, but that your half-hearted reason for changing your oil sooner than need be, is your opinion. Oh and you still didn't answer my question.


Like I said, this is based on my learnings and experience, and is my opinion. I have no need to justify my reasoning to you.
I've been a certified Truck and Coach Technician for 7 Years, I took 4 years of school and 8500 hours Plus all recent experience since then.

I think I have just reason to comment based on my experience and teachings (teachings you CAN'T find on the internet).

However, I'm not an oil analyst, nor do I manufacture or make oils. Do you?
I am however very up to date on all things related to oil, we use it in everything. And I see the difference between 5k oil changes and 15k oil changes, and the kinds of oil used.

My "works for me post" as you so put it, wasn't. I simply stated I use it. I actually will be running Amsoil in my new car, leaving the Max to Mobil.

^That's exactly what it was, you said:

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Rod

Have ran it in my 2000, bought new, for 11yrs now. Virtually no oil burn

That sounds like a blanket 'it's been good to me' statement. But maybe I just read it wrong?

What I notice more often than not, is soooo many people believe the first thing they hear and take that to the bank. Like here on the interwebz, people believe everything they read. For every bit of reputable evidence (if you can find any) that says OMG gotta change the full syn in your car in 5000 miles or less.... your gonna blowz your enginez dudz... I can show you one that says its a waste. Marketing tool. Oil companies make less money if your changing it less. The 3 month 3,000 mile myth, for your info, was for back in the day when oils where single weight oils, but its been beaten into everyone's head. Is this the infinte answer to everyones application in the year 2011. Simply put no.

This is true.



But whatever, its another famous oil thread. You will get 900 different answers from 100 people. In the end game its what the OP wants to do.

This is true.


oh and are you one of those guys that believes breaking in your new engine easy is the best thing for it?

Originally Posted by T_Behr904

After reading the last few posts, time for my 2 cents again... I agree that the 3,000 mile oil change interval is now obsolete. Modern conventional oil has wear and cleaning additives to extend the life of the oil so it maintains it's proper viscosity longer. In the past, 3,000 mile oil changes were due to viscosity breakdown, not the oil necessarily being dirty. Add the fact that quality modern oil filters also use better synthetic fibers for better filtration. Of course, driving conditions and your environmental area may extend past the 3,000 mark, or it might not. I usually go 5,000 to no more than 6,000 for my conventional oil change intervals, and after years of doing this have never had any oil related problems. Synthetic oil can go 15 to 20,000 miles due to the fact that the viscosity stability lasts much longer and the sludge factor is much less. I have personally seen Mobil 1 engines torn down with over 200,000 miles on them and they're squeaky clean, even with visible factory honing crosshatch marks still in the cylinder walls. For example, Porsche's late model cars have maintenance intervals at 2 years, or 20,000 miles, or when the car tells you. Porsche wouldn't have done this without many years and miles of brutally testing their cars in the toughest conditions.

Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000

Originally Posted by trooplewis

To that I add that BMW service interval (using Castrol synthetic) is 1 year or 12,000 miles. Even Ford trucks have a 7500 mile recommended oil change interval, and that is with dino oil.

Originally Posted by J-Rod

We have a winner! I wasn't going to mention this just yet, wanted to see how far he could dig himself a hole and obviously all he can come up with is bashing on my spell check ability, which I don't do & could careless. Not a spelling bee champ but have been around motors probably longer than he has been alive.

Mine has 128,000 miles (documented on here if you search) and have also spoke about a friend with a fiber optic camera that "scoped" my engine, and that was the exact find. It was clean and could still see the factory crosshatch, I even put the Mobil in earlier than recommended at apprx 1,100 miles on the clock. Time flies now-a-days put I started only changing my oil once a year about 9yrs ago on the max. Now for the sake of argument most of my driving is to work and back home... the drive to work is a 22 mile straight shot, and the drive home mixed with stop and go. Average a little less than 15,000 a year but I haven't put pencil to paper on that.

Originally Posted by nelledge

Some of these comments are like comparing apples and oranges. Many vehicles like European cars (Audi, BMW, Porsche, etc.) have much greater oil capacities and much greater filter medium which will also allow for a more prolonged oil change interval than vehicles which only use 4 quarts. The comment on the truck oil change interval falls under this category as well.

Originally Posted by T_Behr904

I can vouch for Castrol GTX. My aunt used that exclusively in her 85 Tercel when she bought it new for over 300,000 miles before she got rid of it due to the fact that it got really bad rust. The conventional oil i'm using is Pennzoil, which from past experience with family member's cars is right on par with the Castrol GTX.

Originally Posted by ifti_sit

Does anyone have the UOAs for Amsoil for the below oils for 6th gen maxima :

Maximum Performance Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)
Maximum Performance SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
Performance Plus XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)
Performance Synthetic 5W30 OE Motor Oil (OEFQT)

The second one contains >12 TBN numbers as per their site advertisement.
0W-30 seems to be good but do I really need it in Los Angeles Area where temp always > 50 F

Price is not a concern for me as long as it is justified.

Originally Posted by J-Rod

Where you are at, and the temps staying warmer like that... you would be just fine with the 5W-30. The benefit to the 0W is its ability to flow when cold -the 30 for its flow ability at op. temp. I don't have any UOA but the 5W-30 is exactly what I would run, if I were you.

Originally Posted by ifti_sit

I never used anything outside 5w-30 in my car..and btw I live in Torrance,CA..the current temp is 78 F generally in winter its never below 50 F. the high TBN numbers on the 0W attracted me..nothing else..just wondering whether that is worth or not.

Originally Posted by mshariff

I need to get some maintenance done such as spark plugs, trans fluid, coolant flush fill, can anyone reccomend any good shops in the south jersey philly area. about how much should all of this cost if i get all the parts. am I missing any other maintenance for about 100k miles on 2003 max se other then oil changes and suspension. thank you

Originally Posted by ifti_sit

Depends on when was the last time u did maintenance . Or if you just bought it ?

But in any case - you can start with

1. Spark Plugs NGK Platinum . Also check if you need coil packs.
2.Engine Oil and Filter . Mobil1 Extended Performance or Amsoil or Pennzoil Palitum. Mobil or K&N or Amsoil Filter
3. Nissan or Amsoil Tranny fluid. I would not recommend tranny flush at this mileage.Just drain and refill
4.Any good brand coolant flush will do.
5.Look for Power steering fluid and Brake Fluid - Dont ignore them .

Yes, suspension is another part to look for. While I am not sure about the rates - but I know Pepboys does Oil/Filter Change in $18 with your own oil.
So for Oil change ( if you are not doing urself )= Oil +Filter ( appx $40 + $10 ) + Service $18=$ 68
Tranny fluid change - normal auto shop should charge you $30-$50 or even less.
Spark Plug depends on the location of plugs. Plug will cost will around $50 with NGK Platinum ( total 6 )

Look for online deals for suspension parts. 2003 has lot of options - not like 2004. I installed Monroe from pepboys with 30% discount on parts and 50% discount on labour ( total $130 labour for struts and shocks )

Another things which you must look ;;

Air filter, wheel balance
and ofcourse clean your throttle body.

And you will be delighted at what you have done to your car. Noticeable difference is guaranteed.