its time to start messing with my spare upper and lower manifold sitting in my garage...my plan is to port match and polish the lower to the upper with a port and polish for the upper with a ssim and a elbow port... i kno their a billion threads on ssim (which i read and went threw) none rele give tips or what to avoid... so any tip would be good... i kno the elbow is easy...the shelf has to be fullly out and smooth but the mini port i wanna do might be my biggest challenge..but weil see.. also got spacers on my car now so when i swap out the old manifold for the new one i gotta cut the elbow spacer to match...

 

i have one for sale. comes with ported elbow. ssim'd manifold has a nwp spacer in between its also ported and polished. Pm me i can send you pics if your interested. thanks

 

^^ lol i have one to do it for free lol

 

Then hop to it grasshopper.

 

-You can get a cheap reciprocating saw from harbor freight for ~30 bucks.
-You can fit long hacksaw blades into a reciprocating saw to cut further into the manifold for cheaper than most long blades.
-Buy a few different sizes of blades, you will probably bend or break a few so get cheap extras.
-Wear safety equipment when operating a reciprocating saw, especially with cheap blades. Gloves/safety glasses would be smart.
-Take your time and do it right, don't damage the IM and smooth out your work with a dremel. A flexible extension on the dremel is worth it, especially when working on the elbow.
-Fully unshroud the runners at the closed end of the manifold (opposite of the vias plate)
-Cheat by using Krrz350's pictures for reference http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-manifold.html

edit: -don't bother using a SSIM unless you have proper supporting mods and extended limiter to take advantage of the ~5500+ gains. You will have losses between idle and 5500.

 

 

haha good change, I approve.

 

If you don't have those supporting mods, I'd stick with the BOP. Simple,easy and effective.

 

All of my PB times up to now have been done with a vias deleted (BOP) IM and I even have all the supporting mods including rev limiter control.

edit: however, I am working on a new SSIM...

 

With stock IM (minus BOP)?

I'm about ready to sack up and get a stock IM, and being that I already have a "BOP", I might want to check said dynos etc. Seems like the thing to do.

I'm have to ping you on that SSSIM.

 

I haven't had a fully stock IM in almost 2 years. I had a SSIM for about 6 months when I first started modding the car, then went back to a vias delete (home-made BOP with a hacksaw).

I don't know yet if I'm going to go to the trouble of swapping a BOP IM and SSIM on the dyno since I believe this SSIM will be going on in a situation where there is no doubt about it giving better results. However, I have been considering using a stock gasket between the TB/elbow and between the upper/lower (with the spacers only RTV'd to the TB and lower) so that I can swap manifolds in ~5-10 mins.

 

That's how mine is currently. I'm not using the NWP piece, so that i could swap these things out as fast as humanly possible. 15 minutes tops and it's out

I've been rocking anon-stock IM for the past 5.5 years, so I'd like to see what the gains are in the event I go to BOP & otherwise stock IM. I know what the 'gains' are not with just the valve disabled, and those are horrid.

 

now correct me if im wrong..but there was a thread about the SSIM with dyno charts attached and if my memory serves me correct, didnt the ssim "loose" hp throughout nearly the entire powerband?

 

lose power below around 5500rpm, gains after that.

 

got it

 

i got all the supporting mods and ex. rev limiter on the way... and thankx sparksmax your post help

 

Purely a straight line racing mod. Although if you have cams and supporting mods to rev out to 7500+, especially with a 6-speed, it would be silly not to use a SSIM. I believe KRRZ350 posted dyno gains of over 30whp at 7000 rpms.

 

I also showed dynos of about 15-20 at redline on an non supportive modded A33B. Comparing my car now to what it was its upwards of 40-50 IIRC.

 

Use your spacers when port-matching the two manifolds. Taping the studs usually allows for the least amount of slack.

 

the thing im going to have problems with is porting/port matching... i might have to send it to someone to do that...cuz as i look at it idk wut to take off and where to do it in the runners

 

+1, using some masking tape on the studs until they fit very snugly can help. You will also want to bolt it all together using the same method if you want them to remain port matched during assembly, though.

Without tools and experience, I do not think you should be porting the runners. Optimally, you would probably want them to be a little wider at the top, tapered down to stock width but cleaned up casting marks by the time you hit the LIM. It's also probably not worth the money to have professional porting done as that will run you several hundred dollars for gains you may not even be able to detect past minor variance.

Port matching you want to take out as little material as possible and be as precise as possible in the assembly process. The NWP spacers come with precisely sized bolt holes and is pretty well port matched from the get go. The elbow spacer will need to be port matched to the changes you made to the elbow. Just use the bolts to line it up and cut where you need to.

Whatever you do, don't go overboard. Hogging out the runners to a larger size without precise tapering and measuring (varying size) and improper port matching can definitely lose you power.

 

ive been looking to retro, IE go back to a stocker and pull my ssim'd intake off. as i wasnt able to get a raised limit from the flash and went with the utec instead. let me know if you wanna swap manis, ill cover ship both ways and throw a little on it. otherwise back to the boneyard :/

 

you kno what..after readin wut u posted i might not even port it out... i think im going to like you sed clean up some casting spots and just try to polish the inside of the runners to give smooth flow... ill just do the ssim on the upper

 

and also i kno the sentra guys can get nissan to extend their rev limit to 7200 with the consult2...but they need vq35 vavle springs and retainers to handle it...i wonder if we can just go to nissan and get our rev extended to 7200 for the ssim to be fully effective instead of trying to get a technosqaure ecu

 

I have a stock IM for sale if he doesnt wanna swap.

What year sentra is the key here. I'm willing to bet that its only the 04 and up sentras that are able to get this done. But i've never heard of them doing this before now so I could be wrong.

 

I have stock valve springs and have a 7100 rev limit and my car has "handled" it well for the past 5 years.

 

^^ im sayen the sentras need ours to handle the high rev.. meaning ours can handle it fine...and also its the 02-03 sentras i no of getting it...also the 04+ can get it done also i believe

 

It was all of the B15 Spec V's 01-06. I remember having those ready for my spec before I lost her. I still have those actually.

The B16's already rev'd to 7k from factory

 

can it work for themaxima im wondering

 

You do realize the UTEC can raise the rev limiter, right? It even does it without a dip like the EU. UTEC is the only form of tuning that I have and my rev limiter is set to 7400 rpms. I also use a WOT box ignition cut limiter set to 7100 RPMs so that I don't have to deal with the soft limiter from the UTEC.

I highly doubt a dealership could raise your rev limiter.

 

^^ they do on the specvs...why not the maximas?

 

Believe it or not, they use different ECUs with different capabilities.

 

the most important tip of all is to avoid cutting your fingers off