now let me ask you then. Since i have a 3 inch id maf all set to go... would going to a 3.5 inch id intake before and after the maf be crazy to do. I know the air will be moving slower then get crammed into the 3 inch maf then shoot back into a 3.5 inch pipe between the maf and tb. would that give the maf a messed up reading since it isnt the same diameter all the way thru or would it work either way. I have the safc coming once i get some money and once i have that i want to play with the intake tuning. Just trying to figure out what may be the best way to get the HP and Tq up higher without going thru the custom intake mani like you did.


On that note doing the custom mani wouldn't be that hard as i have access to a welder and metal and such. could get a mani for a reasonable price ( dont want to hack up my original) and give it a go. I wonder if doing the mani like you and getting the BBMAF and intake would give me some gains. I know it wouldn't be like yours as i have stock ex manifolds (gutted precats, test pipe, flowmaster muffler) but i will be getting a custom cat back done up this spring.

Oh this car modding thing takes up half my brain function ..thought after thought of different things

Definitely do 3.5" piping from the filter to the MAF, then use 3" piping (OD) from the MAF to the TB, since the TB is 2.75" anyway. That way, you are basically tapering like you would with step headers on the exhaust side. I would bet on several HP gains over just going with 3" all the way.

Even with all the right air tools, tig welder, brake for bending.... It's still pretty difficult because of all the time that has to be spent and the level of skill required of the welder to join cast to normal aluminum alloy.

I do think a part of the gains are synergy with other parts that allow the engine to flow better (headers, 3" exhaust) and you may not see the biggest gains with those restrictions still in place.

i hear ya. i want alot for the max.. headers, custom catback, better built intake or should i say bigger, safc, shift kit, cams, rims, mani spacers...

the only things i think this year will be the cat back, safc and maybe rims...i figure that stuff is better than nothing and once im able to get all the other things ill have most of the other stuff in place. even seeing 10hp gain is cool right now for me.

For the 3.5 piping for the intake is there a brand or what not that you looked up.
all i get is silicone reducers a such...not really a view of metal pipes.

Another thing.. you state you have a velocity stack. I just have the pipe into the filter. Would changing to a velocity stack make gains as well. I know the air will "flow" into the pipe better but wondering if it is worth doing right now

You'd need a 6" inlet filter and a velocity stack both, but IMO it's very much worth it.

I just search aluminum 3.5" bend or something like that, eventually find what i'm looking for.

Some of the retailers on amazon sell 3.25" pipe... which is basically 3" ID.

Yeah I would think that I'll be better off acquiring a SAFC and 3.5" Intake as well....Cause our 3" O.D. was matched for that 2" Oem exhaust system....If you look at it like this it will make more sense:
1. An Intake Valve is always bigger than the exhaust valve.....
2. In a hydraulic system or fuel system, the supply line is always bigger than the pressure line
3. So it's time for me to get bigger guys!

Would there be any benifit in making a true CAI with 3.5" piping? Or is your 31" long intake pretty much the magic number?

I just ordered JWT S1 cams and plan using the LRMAF with 3.5" intake and VIAS delete. Wondering if I should raise the rev limit to 7k and gut the SSIM as well..

are all the LRMAF's years the same size?

nope, but the info for which one to get is accessible on these forums.

new 6th gen maxima ownere here. why are these intakes short ram???? is the extra length to have the filter away from the engine pay not effective/efficient in providing more power??

Do some research.

Search the user "sparks03max" .. you'll learn A LOT.

I Have some 3.5 OD pipe laying around and i wanted to make an intake with it. Iam planning on routing the cone filter down below the battery tray. If i take the maf sensor out of the OEM maf housing and place it into the 3.5 Pipe. will i get a false reading?

Props bro, excellent work as always!!!

this may be a dumb question but what does LRMAF stand for? I know MAF is Mass Air Flow but what is LR?

Land Rover

ok thanks...now why would someone use a Land Rover MAF?

Because its 3.5" and our MAF sensor fits right into it so its basically plug and play, I suggest you read the thread and many others concerning this subject.

read the VERY first page and then you will know why.......

And this is not plug and play....

Forgive me if someone already asked this, but the MAF seems awfully close to the TB. No ill effects with such a short distance, or is that distance more of a worry for boosted applications?

S

Doesn't seem to affect things NA. Also, I've seen the turbo 3.5L in the Boosted forum and his is also quite close.

I've seen more affects when rotating the MAF vs it's placement in regards to the TB. This is as far as AFR and airflow (g/s).

Thanks, yeah I remember 3" piping and a rotated Z32 MAF on my S/C'er 4th gen was not good at all. So seeing the pictures had me scratching my head, thanks for clearing that up.

take your own advice there skippy

Our MAF fits right in it and you can attach it to the intake, that's what I meant by its LIKE plug and play.

Some people might be deceived. Mechanically it is plug n play, electronically it is not and can lead to catastrophic engine failure.