Help me pick out some aftermarket parts please
Help me pick out some aftermarket parts please
Its header time for me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...Q5fAccessories
Experts please confirm its v2 and does anyone have anything good or bad to say about seller? Is there a better place to buy from?
Also does anyone know the best part number for the aem dry flow I should go with? I got a used Injen cold air I want to install. Any recommendations on the place to buy from as well?
Next thing is brakes. I want to do the 6th gen bbk upgrade. What rotors and pads should I go with? I read that the brembo blanks were best but since have been discontinued. My rear pads are shot and so are the rotors. Since I am replacing the rear setup I would like to know what is recommended for an all around brake config with the 6th gen calipers (Dave B when im ready). I have gathered Hawk HPS are the preferred for pads all around. Rotors not too sure about. I would like rotors that would not rust on unused areas if possible for a reasonable price. I have heard horror storries about crossed drilled setup. I am looking for blanks but if I cannot get blanks that will not warp then im game for recommendations.
I am excited to finally take care of the max. I want to do it right and enjoy the ride.
Depending on funds tein ss will be next on the list. While were asking. OEM Strut mounts recommended? Any other parts besides control arm bushing and such that should be purchased and installed at the same time?
Thank you in advance all.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...Q5fAccessories
Experts please confirm its v2 and does anyone have anything good or bad to say about seller? Is there a better place to buy from?
Also does anyone know the best part number for the aem dry flow I should go with? I got a used Injen cold air I want to install. Any recommendations on the place to buy from as well?
Next thing is brakes. I want to do the 6th gen bbk upgrade. What rotors and pads should I go with? I read that the brembo blanks were best but since have been discontinued. My rear pads are shot and so are the rotors. Since I am replacing the rear setup I would like to know what is recommended for an all around brake config with the 6th gen calipers (Dave B when im ready). I have gathered Hawk HPS are the preferred for pads all around. Rotors not too sure about. I would like rotors that would not rust on unused areas if possible for a reasonable price. I have heard horror storries about crossed drilled setup. I am looking for blanks but if I cannot get blanks that will not warp then im game for recommendations.
I am excited to finally take care of the max. I want to do it right and enjoy the ride.
Depending on funds tein ss will be next on the list. While were asking. OEM Strut mounts recommended? Any other parts besides control arm bushing and such that should be purchased and installed at the same time?
Thank you in advance all.
I also read I should get oem gaskets for the obx header set. Is it just the manifold to block gaskets or something else as well? And there is 4 bungs for o2 sensors correct? Where to get the o2 dual output sim and where should I get the plugs for the other bungs not used and is it a specific thread type?
There is info on this site that the OBX headers and not 100% bolt on they have to be modified to fit correctly . If you don't have the means to modify them your just asking for a headache.. If you can afford them I say get a pair of Cattman headers They are definitely worth every penny IMO . There is a group buy going on right now!
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS MEMBER - OWES PEOPLE MONEY
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,468
From: Greensboro, NC
Its header time for me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...Q5fAccessories
Experts please confirm its v2 and does anyone have anything good or bad to say about seller? Is there a better place to buy from?
Also does anyone know the best part number for the aem dry flow I should go with? I got a used Injen cold air I want to install. Any recommendations on the place to buy from as well?
Next thing is brakes. I want to do the 6th gen bbk upgrade. What rotors and pads should I go with? I read that the brembo blanks were best but since have been discontinued. My rear pads are shot and so are the rotors. Since I am replacing the rear setup I would like to know what is recommended for an all around brake config with the 6th gen calipers (Dave B when im ready). I have gathered Hawk HPS are the preferred for pads all around. Rotors not too sure about. I would like rotors that would not rust on unused areas if possible for a reasonable price. I have heard horror storries about crossed drilled setup. I am looking for blanks but if I cannot get blanks that will not warp then im game for recommendations.
I am excited to finally take care of the max. I want to do it right and enjoy the ride.
Depending on funds tein ss will be next on the list. While were asking. OEM Strut mounts recommended? Any other parts besides control arm bushing and such that should be purchased and installed at the same time?
Thank you in advance all.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...Q5fAccessories
Experts please confirm its v2 and does anyone have anything good or bad to say about seller? Is there a better place to buy from?
Also does anyone know the best part number for the aem dry flow I should go with? I got a used Injen cold air I want to install. Any recommendations on the place to buy from as well?
Next thing is brakes. I want to do the 6th gen bbk upgrade. What rotors and pads should I go with? I read that the brembo blanks were best but since have been discontinued. My rear pads are shot and so are the rotors. Since I am replacing the rear setup I would like to know what is recommended for an all around brake config with the 6th gen calipers (Dave B when im ready). I have gathered Hawk HPS are the preferred for pads all around. Rotors not too sure about. I would like rotors that would not rust on unused areas if possible for a reasonable price. I have heard horror storries about crossed drilled setup. I am looking for blanks but if I cannot get blanks that will not warp then im game for recommendations.
I am excited to finally take care of the max. I want to do it right and enjoy the ride.
Depending on funds tein ss will be next on the list. While were asking. OEM Strut mounts recommended? Any other parts besides control arm bushing and such that should be purchased and installed at the same time?
Thank you in advance all.
I won't comment on the OBX headers.
If you want to do it right the first time, why did you get an injen intake? That is difficult to understand. Even some minor forum searching would tell you the injen is terrible. In any case, the best intake setup to go with atm is a berk midpipe + either a velocity stack + dry flow filter or a JWT popcharger. The velocity stack + dry flow is cheaper, but some people here swear by the popcharger.
I'll let someone more experience comment on suspension.
+1 on what sparks said about injen. Headers look the same as the one I bought and they were v2
you should be able to get ur dual o2 sim from http://www.o2simulator.com/
*edit* after reading about o2sim.com, don't buy from them
you should be able to get ur dual o2 sim from http://www.o2simulator.com/
*edit* after reading about o2sim.com, don't buy from them
Last edited by tookrzy4u192; Feb 24, 2011 at 09:23 AM.
Thanks guys. I am sorry for not searching far enough. I will still give it a whirl for now unless people think it is worse then oem? I got a really good deal on it prob cuz of that reason.
please forgive me I am not good at searching for some reason. I am only finding threads with cat back for cattman. Anyone know his normal asking price for the headers? I am willing to do slight mods that I am aware of with obx. From reading it appeared to me that cattman headers are great but obx gives almost if not the same gains with just a longer harder install.
please forgive me I am not good at searching for some reason. I am only finding threads with cat back for cattman. Anyone know his normal asking price for the headers? I am willing to do slight mods that I am aware of with obx. From reading it appeared to me that cattman headers are great but obx gives almost if not the same gains with just a longer harder install.
+1 on what sparks said about injen. Headers look the same as the one I bought and they were v2
you should be able to get ur dual o2 sim from http://www.o2simulator.com/
you should be able to get ur dual o2 sim from http://www.o2simulator.com/
I wanna say cattman headers are 649 but I could be wrong. You can always pm or call him to find out. OBX headers are sometimes a PITA, some people didn't have to modify them to fit, others did, but cattmans fit perfectly. If I were you, I'd look into doing a "GAB" intake (search and you'll find many threads on it) over the Injen. Or you could hack up the injen and make it a short ram.
From personal experiance don't bother with o2sim.com I ordered in Nov, never got anything. They used to be great but I think someone else bought them. Instead do what I plan to do soon and go on Amazon and order an o2 sim, just make sure you get the dual output heated one.
All the more reason for him to give advice on it:
To the OP:
You should read the header threads and if you’re willing to roll with those headers, then that’s fine. There are some fitment problems and some people have some items fail down the road, again, searching will help. Also, not to say any other header system won’t fail at some point, but that issues seems more common with the headers you mention, again, if the price difference is a huge deal, then I can respect the choice.
The A34 rear brake configuration is different than ours, and IIRC, only a few have done it. It uses an internal drum set-up like the Z32/33, and other “sports” cars. Search the suspension forum for more on that, and also check out MattBlehms website
He explains is vaguely on there, and of course, look for threads he has started re: that subject. Or PM him, he’s fast.
I’ve had A34 brakes up front on for a long time now, but I also now have a set of Z32 brackets/calipers/lines in my garage also .
It’s much easier to “upgrade” from A34’s to Z32’s because you already have the rotors ;P. The A34’s are fairly insane. Compared to failing stocks (my only comparison). But they are heavy (rotating mass from the rotor)
The intake thing isn’t a no brainer anymore. If you want decent power, stay with the stock airbox, it’s been known to support nearly 250whp. You retain very smooth sound and operation. If you plan on more than that, then you’ll need to redefine your outlook and get a larger MAF and something to make it work. But in the meantime, I would suggest what sparks stated. I have a JWT because it was my first mod when I bought this thing, and buying a replacement filter last year for less than 30$ was better than going with the AEM/V-stack. But, either choice there is a win (JWT/AEM Dry flow).
Automax95’S GD in the GD section has good zinc plated rotors that wont rust for a very long time at a reasonable price. But they only come in x drilled or slotted. I have his cross drilled version and have since 2005/60k miles w/o any problems. I don’t track my car either.
As for the O2 sims, I don’t know, but myself and a couple of members have had no problems using secondaries that see no cat activity. So, if they’re all plugged in, let it be until they complain about a code. Heck, I believe even one member that I know of has them dangling in his engine compartment not plugged into the port (plugged in electrically of course) w/o any problems. If they do prop a code, I’ll sell you my O2 sim.
I think we can talk suspension in an update thread.
To the OP:
You should read the header threads and if you’re willing to roll with those headers, then that’s fine. There are some fitment problems and some people have some items fail down the road, again, searching will help. Also, not to say any other header system won’t fail at some point, but that issues seems more common with the headers you mention, again, if the price difference is a huge deal, then I can respect the choice.
The A34 rear brake configuration is different than ours, and IIRC, only a few have done it. It uses an internal drum set-up like the Z32/33, and other “sports” cars. Search the suspension forum for more on that, and also check out MattBlehms website
He explains is vaguely on there, and of course, look for threads he has started re: that subject. Or PM him, he’s fast.I’ve had A34 brakes up front on for a long time now, but I also now have a set of Z32 brackets/calipers/lines in my garage also .
It’s much easier to “upgrade” from A34’s to Z32’s because you already have the rotors ;P. The A34’s are fairly insane. Compared to failing stocks (my only comparison). But they are heavy (rotating mass from the rotor)The intake thing isn’t a no brainer anymore. If you want decent power, stay with the stock airbox, it’s been known to support nearly 250whp. You retain very smooth sound and operation. If you plan on more than that, then you’ll need to redefine your outlook and get a larger MAF and something to make it work. But in the meantime, I would suggest what sparks stated. I have a JWT because it was my first mod when I bought this thing, and buying a replacement filter last year for less than 30$ was better than going with the AEM/V-stack. But, either choice there is a win (JWT/AEM Dry flow).
Automax95’S GD in the GD section has good zinc plated rotors that wont rust for a very long time at a reasonable price. But they only come in x drilled or slotted. I have his cross drilled version and have since 2005/60k miles w/o any problems. I don’t track my car either.
As for the O2 sims, I don’t know, but myself and a couple of members have had no problems using secondaries that see no cat activity. So, if they’re all plugged in, let it be until they complain about a code. Heck, I believe even one member that I know of has them dangling in his engine compartment not plugged into the port (plugged in electrically of course) w/o any problems. If they do prop a code, I’ll sell you my O2 sim.
I think we can talk suspension in an update thread.
Last edited by NmexMAX; Feb 24, 2011 at 09:13 AM.
All the more reason for him to give advice on it:
To the OP:
You should read the header threads and if you’re willing to roll with those headers, then that’s fine. There are some fitment problems and some people have some items fail down the road, again, searching will help. Also, not to say any other header system won’t fail at some point, but that issues seems more common with the headers you mention, again, if the price difference is a huge deal, then I can respect the choice.
The A34 rear brake configuration is different than ours, and IIRC, only a few have done it. It uses an internal drum set-up like the Z32/33, and other “sports” cars. Search the suspension forum for more on that, and also check out MattBlehms website
He explains is vaguely on there, and of course, look for threads he has started re: that subject. Or PM him, he’s fast.
I’ve had A34 brakes up front on for a long time now, but I also now have a set of Z32 brackets/calipers/lines in my garage also
It’s much easier to “upgrade” from A34’s to Z32’s because you already have the rotors :P. The A34’s are fairly insane. Compared to failing stocks (my only comparison). But they are heavy (rotating mass from the rotor)
The intake thing isn’t a no brainer anymore. If you want decent power, stay with the stock airbox, it’s been known to support nearly 250whp. You retain very smooth sound and operation. If you plan on more than that, then you’ll need to redefine your outlook and get a larger MAF and something to make it work. But in the meantime, I would suggest what sparks stated. I have a JWT because it was my first mod when I bought this thing, and buying a replacement filter last year for less than 30$ was better than going with the AEM/V-stack. But, either choice there is a win (JWT/AEM Dry flow).
Automax95’S GD in the GD section has good zinc plated rotors that wont rust for a very long time at a reasonable price. But they only come in x drilled or slotted. I have his cross drilled version and have since 2005/60k miles w/o any problems. I don’t track my car either.
As for the O2 sims, I don’t know, but myself and a couple of members have had no problems using secondaries that see no cat activity. So, if they’re all plugged in, let it be until they complain about a code. Heck, I believe even one member that I know of has them dangling in his engine compartment not plugged into the port (plugged in electrically of course) w/o any problems. If they do, I’ll sell you my O2 sim.
I think we can talk suspension in an update thread.
To the OP:
You should read the header threads and if you’re willing to roll with those headers, then that’s fine. There are some fitment problems and some people have some items fail down the road, again, searching will help. Also, not to say any other header system won’t fail at some point, but that issues seems more common with the headers you mention, again, if the price difference is a huge deal, then I can respect the choice.
The A34 rear brake configuration is different than ours, and IIRC, only a few have done it. It uses an internal drum set-up like the Z32/33, and other “sports” cars. Search the suspension forum for more on that, and also check out MattBlehms website
He explains is vaguely on there, and of course, look for threads he has started re: that subject. Or PM him, he’s fast.I’ve had A34 brakes up front on for a long time now, but I also now have a set of Z32 brackets/calipers/lines in my garage also
It’s much easier to “upgrade” from A34’s to Z32’s because you already have the rotors :P. The A34’s are fairly insane. Compared to failing stocks (my only comparison). But they are heavy (rotating mass from the rotor)The intake thing isn’t a no brainer anymore. If you want decent power, stay with the stock airbox, it’s been known to support nearly 250whp. You retain very smooth sound and operation. If you plan on more than that, then you’ll need to redefine your outlook and get a larger MAF and something to make it work. But in the meantime, I would suggest what sparks stated. I have a JWT because it was my first mod when I bought this thing, and buying a replacement filter last year for less than 30$ was better than going with the AEM/V-stack. But, either choice there is a win (JWT/AEM Dry flow).
Automax95’S GD in the GD section has good zinc plated rotors that wont rust for a very long time at a reasonable price. But they only come in x drilled or slotted. I have his cross drilled version and have since 2005/60k miles w/o any problems. I don’t track my car either.
As for the O2 sims, I don’t know, but myself and a couple of members have had no problems using secondaries that see no cat activity. So, if they’re all plugged in, let it be until they complain about a code. Heck, I believe even one member that I know of has them dangling in his engine compartment not plugged into the port (plugged in electrically of course) w/o any problems. If they do, I’ll sell you my O2 sim.
I think we can talk suspension in an update thread.
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS MEMBER - OWES PEOPLE MONEY
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,468
From: Greensboro, NC
From personal experiance don't bother with o2sim.com I ordered in Nov, never got anything. They used to be great but I think someone else bought them. Instead do what I plan to do soon and go on Amazon and order an o2 sim, just make sure you get the dual output heated one.
Exactly why I am cautioning him away from it. I got that intake before even finding the max.org forums.
Thank you all for the info.
My fault for not being specific. I plan on doing the front bbk from a 6th gen but since I will be replacing my rotor and pads in the rear soon I was looking to figure out best suggestions for rotors for front 6th gen setup and read stock 5.5 setup. I found that brembo blanks would do the job well but There are no longer made for the 6th gen front.
Thank u.
My fault for not being specific. I plan on doing the front bbk from a 6th gen but since I will be replacing my rotor and pads in the rear soon I was looking to figure out best suggestions for rotors for front 6th gen setup and read stock 5.5 setup. I found that brembo blanks would do the job well but There are no longer made for the 6th gen front.
Thank u.
The cattman headers are 860 Retail and 817 with a maxima.org discount . Money well spent because from what I have seen the OBX are plauged by quality and fittment issues.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...n-headers.html
Here is the thead we have going on the group buy . Brian is looking for a 30% deposit to get put on the buy.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...n-headers.html
Here is the thead we have going on the group buy . Brian is looking for a 30% deposit to get put on the buy.
OK Guys I hope i redeemed myself with my order I just put into Brian. I am supper excited now. With being sick so much lately the easier install and quality long lasting design is worth the extra bucks. We need one more order for production.
its twice the price...................................Anyways to the OP, yea those are the headers, the seller has a very good feedback percentage so why not... dont install the injen intake, do yourself and the car a favor..... just go to advance auto or pepboys and buy a filter and a mid pipe and a breather and call it a day
Im happy you guys quickly brought me to reality and brought up cattman headers one more time. I am glad I got in at the right time. One more order till production. But he will happily take more then 1
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If I had to do it over again, i would probably still buy cattman. Not just because they're better, but because I'd rather support cattman than OBX.
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