This is a 2003 Max.
So, sister borrowed my car. All the "dummy lights" flash on, then car dies. Tries starting it a few times, nothing. No lights or contactor/relay clicks, nothing. My brother goes to pick her and the car up(I was out of town). He tries one more time. Car starts right up, but has warning lights on.

So I get home. Car starts, and runs fine. Transmission "feels" fine, shifts just the same. Shifts in and out of each gear just fine. So I get the codes pulled at checker;
p0733
u1000

After getting home I decide to check fuses. Now I notice some crud around the driver's side. And I suspect they may have been a battery leak. take the battery out, test a little baking soda/water on the suspect crud. Yup it bubbles. ****.
Clean the whole bay down with baking soda, rinse. Get new battery. Let the car sit over night. Put new battery in. Starts up, no lights Go for a drive around the block, half way, lights come back
That's where I left off, work sent me back out of town.

P0733; In reading the fsm, if this were actually a problem, I should only have 1st & 4th(OD). But I have every gear, shifts in and out of everything fine.

U1000; well this has been a pain. I wasn't really able to find much on this(relevant to me. There was a lot about a TCM issue with the first 5th gens, but not the later ones).
So I turned to google; http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/6...tion-line.html
and found all sorts of these post an about every single forum for other Nissans. Was able to find the tsb using google
http://www.google.com/search?q=NTB06...ient=firefox-a
I'm thinking this must be my issue, that's there's some grounding problem. And that maybe when the battery went that it caused a problem in the trans/shift for just a second to give the p0733. So I'm wondering if anybody else has had this issue or similar? If anybody has ever been able to get the TCM Self Diagnosis(FSM AT-53) to work?

 

I've got a 5.5 gen TCM if you need one.

 

Also check the charging system, perhaps the alternator has crapped out

 

I sure hope I don't need to buy a TCM *fingers crossed* had the alternator/charge system checked at Autozone, supposedly it's suppose to be good.

 

I'd sell it for $75.

 

I suspect your codes are due to low voltage. Fix the charging system issue, once that is corrected, if you still have codes, then we can re-address them.

Sorry to Scottwax, I know he's trying really hard to sell you that TCM

I have LARGE doubts about Autozones ability to properly test a charging system. What did they use to check it?

 

How would you suggest checking the charging system?

 

I would use a DMM to check the voltage of your battery with the car off, then with the car running and also with the key turned to accessory. Usually the battery will read 12-12.5ish volts then drop down a bit with the acc on and should read around 14.5 with the car running.

 

The PROPER way is with a AVR machine. This machine load tests the battery, and can load down the system, while doing so, it measures alternator output amperage, voltage, and checks for any voltage ripples, etc that may be indicators of a intermittent failing Alty.

The other less proper way, is use a voltmeter. Unhook the Positive terminal with the engine running (the car might die, if it doesnt: )

Place negative lead on negative terminal/ground.
Place positive lead on positive terminal connector (the wire, that you removed).

It should read a decent voltage if the alternator is working.

If the car dies immediately after disconnecting the positive terminal, then the alternator is not likely working at all (I doubt this is your problem if it took you THIS long to respond).

It's normal for the car to want to die once you unhook the bat, but it should sputter a bit first, if you can get a friend to increase the engine RPM during the test around 2000RPM, that should keep the engine running long enough to perform the test.

 

What's an AVR machine?

Just fyi, I was in town(able to look at the car) for two days, and just got back last night.

But I have(out of necessity) had to drive the car, and it still shifts/drives fine.
Still can't get the stupid TCM self diagnosis to work, anybody ever able to get this to work? I've looked through google and it looks like even on other Nissans/Infinitis people can't get it to work.

 

I can't help you with the TCM, etc, no experience with it.

My implications when I said 'this long to respond' were that you've probably been driving the car, and if the alternator is completely gone, then you wouldn't be driving too far and it'd die. So clearly the alternator is not completely dead. That doesn't mean it's 'good', and it could still be a bad connection.

AVR Automatic Voltage Regulation

This machine has Carbon pile that 'loads' the battery down. You will need to take the car to a shop/mechanic and have it tested in order to test with an AVR. Just make sure they're testing with one, or you're wasting your money getting them to check.

I'm not saying this is your problem, just a suggestion before you chase everything under the sun. ABS/Trac/Brake lights, codes and issues can be caused by low voltage. It's just something that is worth checking. Tranny work, and ABS/Trans codes are not easy to diagnose or read without going to the dealer. At least, not as easy as engine codes.

 

gotcha, thanks. I'll talk with a friend tomorrow that may have access to this device.

 

You got a pm.....
Lol