cam chain question
#1
cam chain question
i have a 2002 max with 110k on it. i started hearing a rattling sound last week under light acceleration. it almost sounds like a cam chain, though i'm not sure. is there an adjustment ro rule of thumb for replacing this chain? i just bought the car last fall and have no idea if it has every been done.
#10
sorry OP dont mean to thread jack but.....i do have a timing chain noise thats at idle and gets quieter under power. do u have a idea of what it could be.....ive heard timing tensioner, timing sprocket, or timing guides
#12
Noise under idle, then quiet under power is usually the tensioner.
#13
OP said "under light acceleration" -- so to ME, that sounds like the dreaded knock or ping of Pre-detonation.
The good news, is that we ALL have it - the bad news, I'll be DAMNED if I know how to cure it.
Don't worry - it's just the engine management system retarding the spark/detonation in the pistons to keep combustion optimal.
Run the BEST gas (highest octane) you can without Ethanol, and it should minimize the effects. Switch BRANDS of gas if it persists, see if that helps.
I run a High Test version of Shell V-power, 93 octane, NO ETHANOL, and it works VERY well -- as I too have the pre-detonation issue.
That's the EASIEST way of explaining it.
If it is indeed a RATTLE from the timing chain (which i doubt), do as Scottwax says -- look into the cam chain tensioners.....but even then -- you probably don't need to worry about the timing chain, unless you have VERy high miles.
gr
The good news, is that we ALL have it - the bad news, I'll be DAMNED if I know how to cure it.
Don't worry - it's just the engine management system retarding the spark/detonation in the pistons to keep combustion optimal.
Run the BEST gas (highest octane) you can without Ethanol, and it should minimize the effects. Switch BRANDS of gas if it persists, see if that helps.
I run a High Test version of Shell V-power, 93 octane, NO ETHANOL, and it works VERY well -- as I too have the pre-detonation issue.
That's the EASIEST way of explaining it.
If it is indeed a RATTLE from the timing chain (which i doubt), do as Scottwax says -- look into the cam chain tensioners.....but even then -- you probably don't need to worry about the timing chain, unless you have VERy high miles.
gr
Last edited by ghostrider17; 03-23-2011 at 06:59 AM.
#15
OP said "under light acceleration" -- so to ME, that sounds like the dreaded knock or ping of Pre-detonation.
The good news, is that we ALL have it - the bad news, I'll be DAMNED if I know how to cure it.
Don't worry - it's just the engine management system retarding the spark/detonation in the pistons to keep combustion optimal.
Run the BEST gas (highest octane) you can without Ethanol, and it should minimize the effects. Switch BRANDS of gas if it persists, see if that helps.
If it is indeed a RATTLE from the timing chain (which i doubt), do as Scottwax says -- look into the cam chain tensioners.....but even then -- you probably don't need to worry about the timing chain, unless you have VERy high miles.
gr
The good news, is that we ALL have it - the bad news, I'll be DAMNED if I know how to cure it.
Don't worry - it's just the engine management system retarding the spark/detonation in the pistons to keep combustion optimal.
Run the BEST gas (highest octane) you can without Ethanol, and it should minimize the effects. Switch BRANDS of gas if it persists, see if that helps.
If it is indeed a RATTLE from the timing chain (which i doubt), do as Scottwax says -- look into the cam chain tensioners.....but even then -- you probably don't need to worry about the timing chain, unless you have VERy high miles.
gr
so all the 2002 maximas have this issue? did it make it worse by adding a cold air intake? has anyone ever tried upping the fuel pressue? i can't believe its pinging..but beyond a upper valve train noise...i can't imagine what it could be. i wonder if i added a gallon or two of high octane race fuel...would it go away?
to be honest...i miss my 97 se more and more. that car never had an issue. and the manual trans was MUCH better. i tried a short shift kit and changing the fluid to the MT90 ...and still have that real notchy feel.
#17
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WTB a proper machine shop so I can try to make a hydraulic assisted mechanical shifter.
#18
Just don't make the mistake that many people do and start changing transmission fluid every few weeks because some dude on the forum told you that the clunky and notchy feel of our transmissions will go away with "x" magic fluid. You might get minor improvements at best, but the main culprits are the cable shifter and the actual design of the transmission shifter assembly.
#20
i had a rattle under light acceleration, i mean so light its like your almost holding the pedal still from 3k on up and would go away if you let off the pedal or got on it. This was after my precat failed and clogged up my main cat. That rattle got worse after about a year, within 30 minutes the rattle had become severe knocking, then the engine blew and i found 2 pistons had been broken to bits and a rod broke its bolts while punching a hole in the block. dunno if it was a wristpin bearing or a rod bearing but when i tore the motor apart all of the rod bearings were scored very badly.
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 03-24-2011 at 03:15 PM.
#21
mine doesn't seem to start till after 2800-3000 rpm, and it does go away if you get off the pedal...but continues if you get on it. and another funny note. ...the rattle is predominate when the engine is cold..but after driving the car 35-40 minutes...it gets quieter, though i can still hear it.
#23
#25
#26
ok....for those of you that stood in the "low oil" corner...here's an update.
checked the oil level...was just under full...maybe 1/4 inch on the stick. so i topped it off till it read full. took the car for a drive and the nosie was still there...then i decided to really test this idea...and go OVER the fill mark. so i added another 1/2 quart. waited till the next morning and drove the car. same noise and the dipstick reads about a 1/4 over full.
but the nosie does seems to be either cam chain or upper valve train noise....which still might be related to oil pressure. has anyone ever threw an oil pressue guage at a maxima and see what it read?
Or....although i am not an engine builder..i do dragrace motorcycles. one of the first mods we do on motors that start to make a good deal of horsepower over the stock horsepower rating, is put a manual cam chain tensioner on the motor. i wonder if anyone has done it...
OR the other thing we do...esspecially on the big horsepower GSXR 1000 motors..is put a high output sproket on the oil pump...for more oil pressure.
i would be interested to know what the factory rates the maxima 3.5 as far as oil pressure goes. maybe the off idle pressure it too low and can't catch up on acceleration... and creates this chain rattle on a small percentage of cars..or the same low off idle low pressure is causing the upper valve train to be extremy noisey.
any thoughts on this?
checked the oil level...was just under full...maybe 1/4 inch on the stick. so i topped it off till it read full. took the car for a drive and the nosie was still there...then i decided to really test this idea...and go OVER the fill mark. so i added another 1/2 quart. waited till the next morning and drove the car. same noise and the dipstick reads about a 1/4 over full.
but the nosie does seems to be either cam chain or upper valve train noise....which still might be related to oil pressure. has anyone ever threw an oil pressue guage at a maxima and see what it read?
Or....although i am not an engine builder..i do dragrace motorcycles. one of the first mods we do on motors that start to make a good deal of horsepower over the stock horsepower rating, is put a manual cam chain tensioner on the motor. i wonder if anyone has done it...
OR the other thing we do...esspecially on the big horsepower GSXR 1000 motors..is put a high output sproket on the oil pump...for more oil pressure.
i would be interested to know what the factory rates the maxima 3.5 as far as oil pressure goes. maybe the off idle pressure it too low and can't catch up on acceleration... and creates this chain rattle on a small percentage of cars..or the same low off idle low pressure is causing the upper valve train to be extremy noisey.
any thoughts on this?
#27
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Every 3.5 I've heard in person has valvetrain noise. Not a whole lot, but definitely there. Don't really have a solution for your problem aside from keeping an ear on it in case it gets worse.
#29
Unfortunetly you cant check the secondary tensioners without removing the timing cover. Big job, I just replaced all 3 tensioners and guides.
You can check the main tensioner by removing the cover. Thats easy and all you need is some RTV grey to seal it back up.
You can check the main tensioner by removing the cover. Thats easy and all you need is some RTV grey to seal it back up.
#30
We replaced my primary tensioner after we took it to the dealer because it wouldnt compress all the way and saw they had an updated part (from my old one at least) what looked like machined aluminum part with smaller drain holes i decided why not.
it is a big job, pita getting the timing cover back in all gooped up without touching the rear timing chain. If you end up doing it or just for reference
I found if you push the 2 dowel pins in on the front cover to where theyre flush with the side you gooped,
-raise the motor
-squeeeze the front timing cover in
-I did the 2 bolts underneath in the oil pan 1st to compress the front seal and get the studs lined up
-lower the motor ( i left about 1/4 inch of the bolts from the crossmember in, gained the ~1 inch drop i needed to get the engine mount stud in and line up the dowel pins)
- tap the dowel pins in... raise the engine then you have i think 22 more bolts to go... just on the timing cover of course
I did it once with the motor outside of the car but left the dowel pins where they rested in the front timing cover... the FSM says that they are supposed to be in the rear timing case but the holes are too deep and the fit is not as snug
it is a big job, pita getting the timing cover back in all gooped up without touching the rear timing chain. If you end up doing it or just for reference
I found if you push the 2 dowel pins in on the front cover to where theyre flush with the side you gooped,
-raise the motor
-squeeeze the front timing cover in
-I did the 2 bolts underneath in the oil pan 1st to compress the front seal and get the studs lined up
-lower the motor ( i left about 1/4 inch of the bolts from the crossmember in, gained the ~1 inch drop i needed to get the engine mount stud in and line up the dowel pins)
- tap the dowel pins in... raise the engine then you have i think 22 more bolts to go... just on the timing cover of course
I did it once with the motor outside of the car but left the dowel pins where they rested in the front timing cover... the FSM says that they are supposed to be in the rear timing case but the holes are too deep and the fit is not as snug
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 03-28-2011 at 11:28 AM.
#31
Not to steal the OP's thread but it though it would be unnecessary to start my own.
I seem to be have the same problem. A slight tick from 1500-2000rpm. I found my oil level to be almost 2 quarts low. Proceeded by topping it off. Yet it continues to make the ticking noise. Should i have the timing tensioner checked out right away, or can i wait a few months?
I seem to be have the same problem. A slight tick from 1500-2000rpm. I found my oil level to be almost 2 quarts low. Proceeded by topping it off. Yet it continues to make the ticking noise. Should i have the timing tensioner checked out right away, or can i wait a few months?
#32
A loose chain due to lack of oil pressure in the tensioner will go away if you added oil.
A loose chain is not a small tick. Its a substantial rattle.
However the main guide is known to break and will cause the chain to become loose. It will rattle like crazy. Adding oil will not fix that.
Bad secondary guides usually sound like super charger whine.
Running low on oil could have caused premature wear on any of the rotating parts. Id say youre hearing something else.
A loose chain is not a small tick. Its a substantial rattle.
However the main guide is known to break and will cause the chain to become loose. It will rattle like crazy. Adding oil will not fix that.
Bad secondary guides usually sound like super charger whine.
Running low on oil could have caused premature wear on any of the rotating parts. Id say youre hearing something else.
#33
A loose chain due to lack of oil pressure in the tensioner will go away if you added oil.
A loose chain is not a small tick. Its a substantial rattle.
However the main guide is known to break and will cause the chain to become loose. It will rattle like crazy. Adding oil will not fix that.
Bad secondary guides usually sound like super charger whine.
Running low on oil could have caused premature wear on any of the rotating parts. Id say youre hearing something else.
A loose chain is not a small tick. Its a substantial rattle.
However the main guide is known to break and will cause the chain to become loose. It will rattle like crazy. Adding oil will not fix that.
Bad secondary guides usually sound like super charger whine.
Running low on oil could have caused premature wear on any of the rotating parts. Id say youre hearing something else.
#34
I am having a similar problem, when I am driving at about 2k rpms i hear a rattle and then again at 3k rpms, the oil level is fine but it sounds like a chain might be loose. Does anyone have a thread on how to adjust your tensioner or replace it, should I take the whole motor out or can I just lift it right in the engine bay and just disconnect everything to do it?
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