wont rev past 2500 rpms
Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 31, 2011 at 06:07 AM.
check your cat a friend of mine had an cl andd his car went into limp mode we checked everything we could and he adventually put it in the shop the mechanic went through evrything car rotor distributor and finally got down to the cat, the honeycomb had callapsed in clogging up the cat, new cat everything was fixed
check your cat a friend of mine had an cl andd his car went into limp mode we checked everything we could and he adventually put it in the shop the mechanic went through evrything car rotor distributor and finally got down to the cat, the honeycomb had callapsed in clogging up the cat, new cat everything was fixed
So I just tried the APP relearn and nothing.... here is another peice of info that can be useful... if the car is in neutral and just idling, it won't even go to 2500 half the time, if I try to rev it , it will bog and kinda sputter (doesn't cut off).. only when I'm driving it will act normal but don't rev past 2500... if I keep the acc pedal floored it won't even go to 2500, it will try and then bog down to like 500 rpms and sputter its way back up and maybe rev about a couple hundred rpms above idle and bog again
alright. If your VAFC is wired up correctly, there should be a yellow wire and a white wire coming from the vafc harness that is intercepting the MAF wires. Disconnect these and connect the MAF wires back to stock.
This is just to rule out (or in) that the vafc itself is the problem.
This is just to rule out (or in) that the vafc itself is the problem.
Took a break from the car yesterday, I can see myself going crazy over this stupid issue, I didn't even look at the VAFC setings or anything, hopefully its something as dumb as the maf settings in there (however that changed) ill ry to browse the issue today n tomorrow, I just needed a break, went back to catchin the bus n all
o.k so i got an ohm meter... i am about to attempt messing witht the TPS signal... my question here is, how and what numbers do i look for with this... lemme see if i even got this straight on how to do it
with the MM, put the red pin to the signal wire (blue iirc)
black pin so a safe ground on the car (tranny for all i care)
i should be getting what reading at idle and what reading at WOT? or do i just adjust for one and the ECU does the rest???... oh another question... what screw do i mess wit to adjust???
with the MM, put the red pin to the signal wire (blue iirc)
black pin so a safe ground on the car (tranny for all i care)
i should be getting what reading at idle and what reading at WOT? or do i just adjust for one and the ECU does the rest???... oh another question... what screw do i mess wit to adjust???
Yeah the accelerator pedal stop. There was a recall on it for some models because it was causing the pedal to go too far and then the voltage would deviate from the throttle plate and throw the car into fail safe.
Considering that they were in that area, they might have bumped it or something.
Considering that they were in that area, they might have bumped it or something.
wow i bout the car with 135K miles and got 150K... 15K miles in 2 years... and one long trip to maxus... talk about never driving a car.. 5 oil change in two years lol (even though i do it by date)
I think you missed the point, obviously your car wasn't on the reacll list because before the swap it was fine. I think maybe they bumped it when isntalling your clutch pedal. Something to look into.
It be nice if you had an OBDII logger so you can compare the TPS and APPS voltages.
It be nice if you had an OBDII logger so you can compare the TPS and APPS voltages.
I think you missed the point, obviously your car wasn't on the reacll list because before the swap it was fine. I think maybe they bumped it when isntalling your clutch pedal. Something to look into.
It be nice if you had an OBDII logger so you can compare the TPS and APPS voltages.
It be nice if you had an OBDII logger so you can compare the TPS and APPS voltages.
... im just jumpy bro man lls... i take it that the OBDII will say if thats the problem right
Yeah, you can watch the voltage and compare them. That's how I pinpointed my problem when I threw in the WB and SAFCII. I ended up needing extra grounds on the ECU body because the TPS would get a small spike and then the car would go into limp mode.
Go in and take a look at the gas pedal and see if it looks weird.
Go in and take a look at the gas pedal and see if it looks weird.
Here's where we sorta touched base on it, me and Gemner.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post7653736
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post7653736
believe it or not.. i actually had that problem when i very 1st bought my car... driving then all the sudden no throttle... pulled over turn the car off and then back on and it worked fine... also happened with me n my moms in the car, after that time it somehow never happened again... but would that be the reason for my issue now or can that same problem cause what im going through now?
now its not revving past 2500... but it doesnt even rev smoothly to 2500 then limits, if im at idle and press the gas pedal it wil sometime immediately bog down to maybe 500 rpms... its really random, it will bog down and sputter all over to throug the rpm, if it sits for long i can get it to rev to a 3k max just once n if i even try to keep it there it will bog down and sputter