Has anyone found a place to get the washers? I was all set to do this mod but didnt really know of anywhere to get them and google didnt help find anywhere local. Online, i only found the size i needed in quantity of 100 or more so i just gave up on it at that point.

 

You don't have a home depot, lowes, menards, ace hardware, etc....?

 

Home depot doesn't even carry sizes half as big as is needed.

I also live in MA but Auburn is a long ways away. I tried to google local "industrial supply" places but my google-fu must be weak.

 

Fastenal,Granger,Msc

 

Largest lowes had in hardware was 2" OD....

Will try an ace hardware next.

 

I got mine all prepped and covered in POR-15 ready for install tomorrow.

 

Hi AWeb,

I have a 2000 Max GLE and am interested in doing this project. Many thanks to Jeff. I think I know where to install these based on Jeff's write up, but still don't know how you get the washers jammed into place and how to support the point and get enough play at the point so you can begin to slide the washers in. Can you please put pics up as you go along? Two of your washers are cut just inside the OD instead of all the way like the other "C" shaped washers, where exactly do these non c-shaped ones go?

Thanks much!

 

It's posted in the original post.

The bold is referring to the front mounts. On the bottom, the top washer needs notched like so....I'm guessing because of the way the sub-frame curves it needs clearance.

 

Thanks AWeb. So how do I create the clearance to slide/tap/hammer in the upper "C" washers? I don't have access to a hoist. So in other words, I am not sure where I should apply my bottle-jack. Don't want to apply it to any non-chasiss parts where the jack will potentially smash right through the underbody or create an indentation.

 

Here is a quick vid for the rear mount. You'll need a 14 and 19mm socket to do it.


I was NOT able to do the front mounts as the nut is rusted on there. I'm going to have to remove the sway bar end link and disconnect the BJ to lower the Control arm out of the way to get an extension and impact on it. It's not possible to do it with the tools I have. I had a 3' breaker on it today and still couldn't get it to budge.

Looks like I'll be doing sway bar inner bushings and endlinks soon. Might as well put new/upgraded ones in since I'll be removing them anyway.

 

Nice work on POR'ing the washers, I think I'm gonna order the kit off their website. Have you used it before, and is it as good as I hear?

 

AWeb, where did you source the washers from? My lowes/HD doesnt carry washers big enough.

 

I found them at my local Ace Hardware. They were $1.75 per or $18 for a box of 17. So I got a box.

 

These the size you got?

Thanks for the help!

 

yes

 

Ditto Thanks.
I am going to try do at least a couple of these, (IIRC they all do not work in conjunction with a LTB)

 

Most of the collars will fit with an LTB. Not every one of them.

 

I'm doing this on sat.
Will report back with extremely happy results.

 

Picked up the washers today from my local brafasco.
OP, all they had in 1 1/4" ID were 3" OD, instead of 2 3/4".
I grabbed em anyway, think they will work?

 

Should work. Nothing in the way that the extra 1/8" per side will be in contact with.

 

Just take a bit more off the one side for the bottom front washers.

 

Awesome thanks fellas

 

Just finished this up today, I used a metal chop saw while I held the washer with vice grips, to do the c-shape ones. That wasn't too bad, and they fit well but boreing out the inside of the two bottom front's I had a hell of a time. But, it's done.

The only other question I had was, and I tried to find it in the fsm, what should the nuts be torqued to after the install?

Once I have them torqued I can test em out, and hopefully give my positive review.

 

I all the times I've had my GP, civic, and my old civic hatch suspension apart, I always just make **** as tight as possible. Never had a problem. I do tq lug nuts though as I want a consistent tightness all around to keep from warping the rotor.

The only time I tq stuff is on engines and trans internals.

 

Haha k, I torqued them to 110 ft/lbs and I feel like they could be tighter.

 

Hacim105's thread about his install with the pre-made collars from speedymax, he torqued to 100 ft/lbs. So I think I'm good.

 

So, after doing a good long test drive on highway, country and city roads...

These are as good as everyone has said, they take a lot of the slop out of the steering wheel, as opposed to before when it was centred you could move it slightly either way with having almost no steering response.

You can tell that the suspension is forced to do the work it is supposed to, instead of that sub frame movin around. Road imperfections and bumps don't give that feeling of loss of control anymore. I think my car is actually driving straighter, the camber of the road doesn't want to pull the car either way as much.

Overall, especially for the price (less than $20), I'm very happy.

The bad: solidifying that subframe excentuated the low speed clunk in the front end, which I half expected. Now to refresh the suspension/components and really enjoy the effects of these collars.

 

I have a clunk too. I know for sure my sway bar end links are shot. I will be installing poly bushings and new end links soon.

 

Just finished this today. I had picked up the washers yesterday from a local 'ace hardware' type store for $16. I only went with 3 per corner because these washers were pretty thick. Man it's amazing how much different/better it drives now! No slop, bumps don't veer it off course, no low end clunks....everyone should do this!

 

Thanks for the update, good to know. I def wanna do this

 

Hey Im trying to do this but how exactly would I cut a "C" into the washers? What tool do I need to buy? A hacksaw seems like ALOT of work..

If i have to buy a hand grinder or a metal chop saw I might as well pay for carnals set...

 

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I know I read it but I just wanna know how much work is it going to be to cut through the washers? Like someone with experience with this DIY..

 

You can use just a hacksaw and a few blades depends on if you got bean arms or not

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http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=6DYY5

Would these be ideal to do the diy collars?

 

a tad thick...but might be ok

 

Now that I'm doing the math and not knowing how long the bolts are these might be too much.... I'll just have to go to Lowes or home Depot?

 

can some one explain to me what this is mod is supposed to do?

 

If you have an maxima and its ten years old or better, chances are that your bushings have just about had it. Symptoms of this are a sloppiness in the front end with possibly some clumsiness over low speed rough pavement, directional changes when hitting bumps at higher speeds, and steering sluggishness. All of this can be attributed to worn front subframe bushings. You eliminate them from the equation with the introduction of the collars. They effectively solidify the connection of the subframe to the car. And from personal experience it was one of the best suspension mods I have done. The car gets that tight crisp feel that a new car exhibits. Moreover, they complemented my new lower control arms/end links/tie rod ends nicely. The front end on my car is tight and clunk free.

 

at the cost of bumpier ride i take it? where are the bushing located? i'm gonna see if i can't get my car on the rack in the near future.

EDIT: instead of using washers would a steel spacer work if i had one made?