This code keeps popping up even after i have cleared it. When i try and start my car it usually stutters and doesnt catch right away. Eventually it starts everytime, can anyone help me out?

 

Bad ignition coil. Hard to determine which one is causing it without another code. If all of the coils are original it's best to replace them all. Use only OEM coils. Coils run about $75 each and can be replaced yourself if you know how to use a socket set. Go to google and search for "P1320 ignition coil nissan maxima" and you'll get hundreds of hits. It's the most common Maxima problem.

 

is this whats causing the stutter while starting my car?

 

Probably. I had a bad coil and the engine started hard and ran like crappppp. Most bad coils are intermittent. All of a sudden, things will run fine and then back to the same problem. Need to isolate the bad coil. Hopefully, a code like P0301 or something like it but don't count on getting another code. If you have any coils that don't have silver dots then replace them.

 

Since I can't start a new thread about this, I'm posting this in this thread. I have the same problem with p1320 code coming up but no other codes. I have replaced two ignition coils already and still getting the code. How likely is it that the crankshaft sensor is bad or the wiring is faulty? Please help since I can't even get an emission test since they are saying the car is not ready to be tested even after driving it a drive cycle. Because I can't get an emission test I can't get a license plate sticker, thus, can't drive it around on the streets because I have will get a ticket. HELP!!!!

 

How many miles on odo? Were coils ever replaced before.. Are u aware 00 coils were faulty from get go...

 

Took my 01 Max to the Nissan Dlr when the lights TCS and Slip lights came on while I was in traffic. The car immediately began running roughly when idling like it was missing a cyl. I drove it to the dealer and had it diagnosed-they said the general code for one or more bad ignition coils came back but nothing to isolate which one. They wanted 2k to replace the coil pack which seemed like a scam job to me. I drove it home.

After reading up on this site I simply let the car idle with the slip/tcs lights on while it ran roughly-the idea being that one or more of the coils was bad and that I could simply disconnect the coil from the power one by one and if the roughness did not get any worse, I found my bad coil. After doing this to all six coils it was apparent that it might not be the coil; each time I unplugged a coil the engine ran rougher and got better when I plugged it back in-did this several times.

Also, The lights have gone off and the car will run/idle normally until warming up then immediately when the lights come back on, the same symptoms occure.

Any ideas? Would the code for bad coils get thrown even if it wasn't so?

 

I have the same problem...it all started with me getting a engine light and code 1320 and the car ran very rough at idle so:

a) I replaced the camshaft position sensor but that didn't fix it
b) I changed all the coil packs with brand new ones but I still have the engine light on!

I am going to get my ecu scanned again tomorrow to see wtf is going on now LOL

 

Maybe it could be bad o2 sensor or injectors?

 

2k to replace A coil pack

 

The fifth-generation Maximas have a number of common problems: ignition coils, MAF sensor, TPS (Throttle position sensor) and IACV-AAC (Idle control valve).Users should be particularly aware of the IACV problem which can short out the ECM leading to a very costly repair. All of these faults trigger the check engine light.

clean your maf and tb and see if it helps. if not then time to replace them.

 

I'm going to clean the maf and replace the bank 2 sensor 1 o2 sensor hopefully that fixes it.

 

I have a 2000 max se with the P1320 and P0720. I had a miss on #3 and changed the coil, no miss now. I changed the cheaper speed sensor and now I will change the $150 sensor. I am also going to change the cam and crank position sensors.

 

Been running with the P1320 code for around 6 months now, with no secondary codes... It's really aggrivating. The car starts and runs fine as well. The dealer here wanted $107 for a coil pack with a dealer discount, and that's just crazy! $642 dollars for 6 coil packs is just insane, sooooo i'm just gonna keep doing what I'm doing, and drive it till it throws a secondary code. One theory I have in mind is getting a Stillen grounding kit. My car is 11 years old now and has 157,000 miles, and I noticed when I installed my Berk intake that the ground strap going from the negative battery terminal to the engine block looked pretty crusty. Maybe the computer systems aren't getting a strong enough ground and could be weakening the signal to the coil packs throwing the code? Does anyone have the P1320 code ONLY with a grounding kit?

 

Heres A solution...buy one coil and put it in either 1-6 and keep the one you replaced just incase thats not it...reset ecm and drive,if thats not the one do the same with another....and autozone has them for $87. I forgot the backs are different so keep reciept just incase its not the fronts

 

Sounds like a good idea, I'll keep that in mind. I just ordered my grounding kit, and I'll see what happens after I get that installed.

 

I have had multiple issues with replacing these coils. Here's the deal....Nissan has this part manufactured by Hanshin (MCP-1350). I have purchased this same part via NAPA (Echlin) and Advance Auto (BWD). If you get a "reboxed" Nissan part (with nissan emblem filed off) via an aftermarket supplier you can save money and clear your P1320 and any cyl misfire codes such as P0301, P0302 etc. If you purchase a "Made in China" or "Made in Poland" coil with no visible "Hanshin, MCP1350 marking" you will not clear the DTC code P1320 ! I have encountered this on my 1997 Max, my daughter's 1998 Max, and my best friends 2000 Max.
I believe you'll find out Hanshin has merged or been bought by another company and the current trend is to make these coils outside Japan !!!!
Like many electronic manufacturer's trying to save a nickel, they've got something wrong on the coil and/or they're not testing it fully before shipping them !!!! Save the heartache and get a Nissan coil even if you buy it via BWD (blue box with made in japan on the upc label and marked MCP1350) or your favorite auto supplier. Beware purple box BWD products are made in china or poland !!!

 

I'll also attest to this also. The coil I bought from Advance Auto was made in Poland and didn't work. Had to send it back for a refund. Only buy OEM coils. About $75 each online.

 

i have changed spark plugs and all 6 coils, still idles rough at times and dies. it is still pulling a P1320 code, what's up? any help appreciated.

 

I have the same issue, p1320 p0301 change for a new coil and now the p0301 is gone but my car still have the p1320..same problem..it come and goes...what else it could be?

 

I suspect another coil is going or the replacement coil is not OEM. If another coil is going, eventually you will get the P030n code for that cylinder but it might be months before you get that code.

 

I have the same problem! I put in a new MAF, Starter, Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, Cleaned the Throttle Body, cleaned the Neutral Shift, and added SeaFoam to the brake boost vacuum line: the car still has the 1320 code, plus runs rough in drive. I recently took it in and had the power steering hose replaced, main oil seal replaced, and gaskets replaced.

I noticed what looks like a large electrical t-joint under the air box that has two ends connected to each other and the other end is empty. Should there be connectors to that third end? It's just hanging under the air box.

Any help with the code and/or the large electrical t-joint would be greatly appreciated!

 

The PO 1320 can be related to ignitions coils, or the main harness. A friend who is a Nissan tech, brought a TSB last week about that, apparently there is 2-3 wires that have tendency to cut because vibration and engine movement. In most case the wire split near the intake manifold right on the corner so to speak, I'll see if I can scan the TSB later today and post it. If it's the ignitions coils there readily avaialble for very cheap, check this out: http://www.nextag.com/nissan-maxima-...l/compare-html

 

What's the date and number of the TSB?

 

I have this issue, and called my local dealer about getting coils - $107 each. In this thread it has been stated that OEM coils can be found online for $75 each. Can someone point me to a site who is selling them for that price? I just see the ones on amazon, are they the good ones or the bad ones?

 

Try these sites:

partsfornissans.com
nissanpartswarehouse.com
mynissanparts.com
nissanpartswholesale.com
Nissan-Auto-Parts-Dealer.com
everythingnissan.com
nissanparts.cc
1stnissanparts.com
courtesyparts.com

Some have free shipping and some don't so need to compare final prices.

 

thanks for the links.

 

Sorry for not responding I was out of town. One of the TSB is dated Feb 7 2002 and has the reference number : NTSB01-079 this is for Maxima (A33) 2000-2001 and concerned the following VIN number #
JN1CA31A31T112164 with lateral airbag
JN1CA31A31T316031 with lateral airbag
JN1CA31D91T627134 without lateral airbag
JN1CA31D91T830089 without lateral airbag

The other TSB for the main harness EGI. NTSB01-092 dated March 21 2002 and concerned the Maxima (A33) 2000 & 2001

It look like the P1320 is related to bad coil, so check the link on post # 23, you can buy the 6 coils for as cheap as 149$ just make sure they are grey dot.

I hope it help.

Good luck gentleman.

 

Is cylinder 6 a Left or Right ignition coil? Stupid question, but how do i know which cylinder is what coil?

Thanks!

 

Anyone try carpartswarehouse ? Tempted to click but I wanna b sure of course.

 

i have a 2000 GLE with about 205000 miles ... got the p1350 and p0300 codes.. car runs rough like its about to die. it shakes while going at speeds faster than 60 mph and the check engine light started flashing.. never had that one happen before... geez i've replaced cooling fans, starter (twice!) radiatior, ac compressor is out, alternator, all within the past year!! omg this car is a headache!! Man o Man it drives like a champ when its fixed tho!

so i changed the spark plugs.. still nothing... i dont want to replace the whole coil pack.. ive already been out soooo much money this year... any suggestions??

 

The 300 code is a coil pack. If it's a 301, then it's the #1 cylinder, 302, #2 cylinder, 303, #3 cylinder, and so on. You have to replace whatever coil pack the 300 code says, there's no way around it. That's why it runs the way it does, because it's not firing the spark plug. The reason why your engine light is flashing is because one or more of the coil packs are shot. Rescan and replace the coil packs needed.

 

I got the same issue, and I'm not sure if I should change all the coils or just one that is malfunction

 

Replace the one that is malfunctioning.

 

Im havin the same type of issue. Getting p1320 errors. My scan tool picked the right bad coil and was running rough, I replaced the number 4 coil and it fixed it for a month or 2. Now I have the error again for a couple weeks now. Everything was running smooth with the p1320 erro distrib sig error untill I installed a sri yesterday. Now Im running rough on idle but it ends up evening out after a few stop lights then runs rough at idle then evens out intermittenly. Not getting any MAF errors and thought it was dirty so I cleaned my MAF but still getting that shutter idle. Going to check the crank and cam sensors for crap any other reommendations? Spark plugs changed with Bosch irridiums when number 4 went out 2 months ago .

 

How did your scan tool detect the bad coil? Did you have a P030x code?

 

Recently, my engine service light came on along with the SLIP and traction control light. While the SLIP and traction control light went off, SEL is still on. I got a P1320 code which is most likely an issue with the crankshaft position sensor. I believe there are two types of CPS's located. One is called REF which is next to the oil filter, and the other is POS which is next to the front heated oxygen sensor. Anyone have an idea on which one needs to be replaced? Thanks in adcance.

 

Everybody on here failed to mention the harness clips and the harness itself. If the harness is cracked then it will send a 1320 code too. The coil could be fine its just not getting a consistent 12v

 

If you read my post # 23 I mentioned the main harness, I should perhaps been more specific.

 

Also, make sure you are not running aftermarket coils. Even if they are new and the car runs fine, they tend to throw the P1320 code. Do some research, you'll find other members who replaced all coils with aftermarket and had the CEL continuously remain on, even with a good running Max. There was also a member who looked into the issue and found that aftermarket coils don't necessarily run within Nissan spec, which throws the code, but obviously is enough to make the car run fine. I also had similar situation, and the only way I managed to get rid of my CEL was to pull the working aftermarket coils out and replace them with OEM. My car was not running rough (it was with the failed OEM originals, which is why I replaced the original coils with the aftermarket, but my CEL remained on...) but now I was able to rid the CEL with OEM replacements.