mitch09

new to this site, I keep reading about OEM coils needed but im unsure which brand that is.. the two that catch my eye are OES genuine ignition coils and Hitachi ignition coils.. would either of these be OEM and help me get rid of the P1320 code?

TrueMaxima03

Anyone use the Hitachi coils from rockauto? I'm thinking of getting those.. just seeing if anyone on here uses those and if they worked.

FrankieBigs97

I have replaced all my ignition coils, but not with Nissan OEM coils, I have also replaced my cam shaft sensor with the original equipment which was a Delphi cam sensor. Check engine light is still on. Tell me I'm going to have buy actual Nissan Hanshin coils to cure this problem. Somebody Please tell me, thankyou very much. I have a 97 Maxima GXE

hargate

I have been battling this for over a year. Here is an update:

I don't drive my 00SE auto very much. I like the car but I have had to buy another car to replace it for daily use. The main reason is because I cannot get it inspected. It runs great, passes safety and emissions, new tires, no misses, etc but the damn CEL is on.

In NC, CEL means no inspection which means cannot renew tags which means paid for car that runs great and does not violate emissions statutes is a paperweight.

I have replaced MAF, all coils, plugs, O2S(3), cleaned the throttle body, paid the dealer to clean the throttle body again, and other ridiculous BS recommended by the dealer all in effort to clear 1320. Occasionally I have gotten other codes that prompted a change of the previously replaced coils and done so. The dealers are convinced this is an issue with "your car" and not their parts.

Ten days or so ago I did get a 0306 to go along with 1320 and the excited tech said to change the #6 coil (again) and all my problems should be solved. I drove it home and the CEL came on before I got one mile from the dealer. Calls to tech were notreturned.

I dropped it back off the next day with instruction to fix the car or donate it to the blind and walked away. I got a call later and was told the following:
" We ohmed the wiring harness and found that there is information that tells us you may have some kind of short somewhere" They offered to replace the wiring harness.... $3900.00 plus labor. Labor which would be "straight time" which means they have no idea how long it will take and will bill me for whatever time it takes them, a day or a month.

If there is any advice I would love it. I have already looked into donating the car to the blind (seriously) as I see this as my only option at this point.

Trade it? Maybe. The tech flat out told me they could fix it and would invest money and time in fixing it to get it to pass so they could sell it at auction. But for me they would only go the safe "bleed the f-ck out of the customer" route. That is when I said a few things that led to them asking me to leave.

I'm thinking bonfire if the donation thing does not help me like I think it should tax-wise.

Forgive the rudeness. I do not mean to offend but I am beyond irritated with the customer service I have received from the stealership.

Crown Nissan in Greensboro, NC btw

ETA: I forgot.. cost for the recent coil pack in #6? $209 and change installed. Yeh. Not a typo. $209

BronxSleeperMax187

Bro you been raped badly already, now they trying to make A new record with you..... go to auto zone and buy A spark plug and one coil for that #6 cylinder....should be 70 bucks, tell them you need A front ignition coil(side)not top which is for back ones .....buy A Allen wrench to remove the screws where the engine cover is, A ten year old can do this job bro.....after removing the cover you will see three front coils, number 6 is all the way to the right.....should be held with one screw. Remove the coil and change the plug too while your at it....then put new coil and you should be good to go....if that don't work return the darn coil and get your money back and throw it off a cliff

hargate

Man I hate to even admit this but I purchased all 6 and replaced them myself at the beginning of this fiasco. I only have been letting them do work and i paid the recent 209 because they keep telling me I am doing something wrong. Now that I have let them bleed me to no avail we are where we are and they have thrown me the "wiring harness" bull****. I just don't know what to do next and mainly wanted to share my experience with this since it is so common. Car has legit 137k now and I have owned it since 19k

BronxSleeperMax187

Spark plug?Make sure its not corroded or gaped wrong. Look inside #6 hole with flashlight maybe rubber piece on bottom of coil fell down there or something and is causing misfires, this has happened before to people. That piece goes over spark plug.
I doubt its harness and for that price you can buy A whole car, so don't do that.

JeffZZ

Where can I buy the good OEM replacements (not the remaufactued) coils?

Kgkeen101

iTrader: (4)

So.. I am a new/used car sales associate, and was wondering about these 2 codes that are in this thread. Sold a 2000 Nissan Maxima which has these codes in the OBDii scan. Seems to me that most are just suggesting replace all the coil packs??

defiance

iTrader: (1)

Get the coils at Autozone and never look back. Cured my P1320 within 5 minutes

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Bad advice.

OEM or nothing.
Used OEM is better than new aftermarket any day.

defiance

iTrader: (1)

Duralast coils worked for me when I first got the car, brand new,made in Japan,operates within SPEC,still running it today,no complaints.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Your the only one on the org to have good luck with aftermarket coil packs.

You should feel happy for yourself, but I don't think you should encourage others to try their luck.

There are stores that sell actual OEM other than Nissan, but you don't usually find those without researching IME.

CADguy

He's not the only one. I replaced two cool packs with aftermarket units, and 6 months later, still no check engine light, and it runs awesome with 160,000 on the odometer. The clutch master cylinder on the other hand, I got two bad aftermarket ones before I went with OEM.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Non oem coils will 99% of the time give you a 1320 due to the resistance value being off

T_Behr904

Yep... I have a Napa coil pack on my car, and the resistance value is off just enough (compared to OEM resistance value) to drip that damn light.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Thank you!!!
Finally the pros come in to validate.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Wheres these Pro's at i have some questions

T_Behr904

You can get lucky and get an aftermarket coil pack that will be within spec, but it's rare that it happens. The odds are greatly against you, so I just suck it up and pay more for the factory Nissan ones.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

All you have to do is look at the coil and see if the nissan emblem is ground down on it.

someday

i think the aftermarket has finally figured out how to make coils that dont trip P1320

Young Christin

iTrader: (1)

I recently got some coils from a member. He got them from nissan and they were hitachi and they cleared the code. Rockauto.com sells hitachi coils for a reasonable price if you need them.

vkcooke90

I am having this same issue with the p1320 code, but i do not have and drivability concerns or other codes. I have to questions, should i replace all 6 six coils. and what brand i heard people talking about the hitachi coils and BWD, made in japan, and nissan brand. What should i do?

bullet187

Either Hitachi or BWD should be good. Nissan must have sold off there oem coils to them. I have the BWD coils and have been working good for the past few years. Replace all 6 if it has been a while since the coils have been replaced.

vkcooke90

Yeah i am still running the original coils in the car. It has 258XXX miles on it this is the first time ive run into this problem.

bullet187

You got lucky to get 258K out of them, usually 1 goes out on me every 80K.

vkcooke90

Well my luck took a 180, the timing jumped a couple of teeth and now it is throwing a p0305, p1320 and the cel blinking, you can hear the tensioners rattling. i think i am going to sell it.

bullet187

Just replace coil #5 and it will fix your CEL. No need to replace all of them. The rattling is just getting worse from the misfiring.

Insulmac

200o model Maxima- Intermittent CEL, hard to start, very rough idle, no power (not drivable), and distinct hissing sound coming from air intake. Very first time I started troubleshooting, front pre-cat got VERY hot while sitting car was sitting and idling, but I have not seen that problem again. CKP code and or cam sensor code. (sometimes). Verified that three coils are not firing. I can switch the coils around, same cylinders not firing (2 front, 1 back), so I figure it is not the coils. I can unplug the POS crank sensor (at the front of the motor) while the car is running, and plug it back in and presto, car runs like a top, and the distinct hissing sound from the air intake goes away--- until you shut it off. Then all problems return.

So far I have replaced the plugs because they needed it, MAF senor, Cam sensor, POS crank sensor, and checked every sensor I can by the Chilton book, the only thing that makes the car run right is to unplug the POS rank sensor and plug it back in, while car is running, and that only last until you turn off the ignition.

Any really good ideas?

raelity

I have an '00 Maxima that pulled down codes P1320 and P1612. The P1612 was said to be "NATS failure - Nissan anti-theft system". Not rough running at all (unlike all the other times my ignition coils went bad, when they would go intermittent for a while - with very rough running, then get ok, then eventually stay rough). The P1320 is what this thread is about. I have already replaced all 6 of my ignition coils, the first at about 38,000 miles, the last at about 90,000 miles. The first 4 I had the dealer do at about $250 each. Then I read you can do them yourself for about $70 dollars, so the last two were from Autozone. I read on another forum that someone got the P1612 and a P1320 and cleared it by cleaning/improving their ground connections. I removed, cleaned, sanded til shiny and retightened the ground connection on the block, and then did the same for both battery terminals. Started the car and voila - check engine light is cleared. Now I don't know if I just temporarily cleared it or not, I will have to drive it awhile to see if any of these codes pop back.

123GO

I have a 2000 Infiniti I30, does not have any 301,302 etc..cylinder codes with my P1320. Reset light about 5 times always returns less than 30 miles.

Car had this same code 2 yrs ago so I bought (2) Japanese NGK branded coils, 1 front, 1 rear and two new NGK spark plugs. Bought 2 coils as the coils on mine are not all the same, they are designed differently for front/rear location.
My plan was install them and move around till I hit bad coil but I hit it the first time, code instantly went.

Now with 20k more miles its back. Imagine that chit .. Strange there is no other codes to show what cylinder, car starts quick, runs smooth as silk just like last time. Car has never misfired at all so I'd know what cylinder to replace plug/coil, it runs perfectly.

Now' today I see a few vids on youtube saying P1320 on Nissan can be caused by bad "Primary Ignition Condenser"? No mention of this part here at all so I thought I'd post.
"P1320 Primary Ignition Signal" is all my scanner says but I never knew these Nissans still had this little condenser, I forgot about them & never seen it mentioned?
My old 88 Maxima Wagon had one mounted on passenger inner fender well because I replaced it myself chasing a serious intermittent dead miss for over a month before saying screw it, sell the car.
fwiw: Great car to,never found it's problem even after 2 shop visits one being Nissan (May be electrical?? ) cost big money for us to to locate issue. Ya' later dude!!
Only paid $700 for that like new Max wagon with 103k miles, car lot thought trans bad, I found shift cable was stretched easy fix with homemade spacer under shifter. I drove it 4yrs doing only maintenance until bad misfire, sold for $800 like it was and he drove it 3 years like that, he threw big Big BIG money into it, he/Nissan never found it's issue. Sold to Nissan Tech, challenge for his mind is my guess???

Oh well' wanted to share condenser findings sorry I rambled (see vid link), my I30 only has this one code P1320 all by itself so I'll update if I learn anything new and if replacing this $15 part (28351-89901) actually does chit for me?
Peace!!

Check this video out folks??


.

flames101sully

iTrader: (1)

I had this exact problem a couple months ago. I tried the $15 part and it changed nothing, but after the code being on for a long time (With no symptoms at all except for the check engine light) I got a misfire on cylinder #4. Changed the coil with OEM and both the misfire and the P1320 that was on for months went away instantly.

Wjb727

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

What year/engine? you may have success by changing the ignition condenser, its basically a capacitor for the ignition system that is buried under the tape that wraps up the wire harness going over the front valve cover. You could also test for a bad coil by unplugging them one by one to see which one doesnt cause any change in how the motor is running - the one that produces no change is the bad coil. If you cant reach the back 3 coils with the motor running, just test the front 3 first, then move them to the back, and move the back ones to the front so you can test them.

maxiiiboy

It needn't be the ignition coil. For P1320, the FSM (page EC-584, for 2k maxima) lists the following possible causes:

• Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted),
• Power transistor unit built into ignition coil,
• Condenser,
• Crankshaft position sensor (REF),
• Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit.

I would start by checking the CPS connector, and cleaning the CPS itself and its contact with the engine.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Intake manifold air Leak is possibly the problem and I would perform either a leak down test or a compression test!

MesaGuy

There are many possible causes of 1320 unfortunately. Running down the full checklist is a lot of work, and most mechanics know that can't bill that time, and many are not skilled enough anyway.
Really, figuring it out without "luck" requires a 2 channel Oscilloscope (or a 6 channel one). Those are too expensive for home DIYers usually. (Cheapest I know is a Hantek 108, plus two Hantek probes, cost ~250 bucks).
But often, but not always, replacing all the coils with OEM original coils (either Nissan purchased, or Hitachi after-market) will do it, but not always.

If you get P1320 and a P301-P306, then replace the coil in the P30x code, where X is the bad coil.
If no P301 code, then it is much harder. The only "real" way to run it down is with both an Oscilloscope, and a multi-meter.
The OScope to look at the coils firing, both at idle, and at with the engine snapped, e.g. a momentary gunning of the throttle using the throttle cable mount. Often, a comparison of all 6 firing patterns shows one or two of them off, and replace those coils... But need on OScope to see it.

Short of an OScope, sometimes (if you are lucky) you can find the problem with just an Ohm meter (multimeter). But you have to be lucky. (While you have P1320, so you are not that lucky to start. But you have to no be the unluckiest...)
Remove all 6 coils. (Number them with a grey/gold permanent marker as your remove them, with their original installed cylinder position. The Back of the engine compartment coils are 1,3,5 (1 at passenger side (RH) on USA LH drive cars). The front cycls are 2,4,6 (#2 is passenger side, e.g. RH side of vehicle). Compare the ohm reading on Pins 1,2 ; 2,3 ; 3,1 mark them down. Do this for all the front coils (2,4,6), and for all the back coils (1,3,5). The should all be similar in each of the three measurements. If one or two are markedly different (more than 15%), then replace those coils. (This is the lucky poorman's means of detecting that missing 301-306 code. But usually, you are not that lucky, but sometimes you are.)

Another old mechanics trick is to buy a $10 test lamp. Install all the coils into original positions, except one. If you have just the test lamp, then plug in the coil connector, but do not install the coil. Put the test lamp probe into the coil where the plug would normally go, with the ground for the test lamp connected to the engine block point or to the battery negative. Start vehicle, then slowly pull the probe out of the coil, and watch the sparc arc. A good coil should be able to jump arc at least to the tip of the rubber. A very good coil will usually go another 1/4 inch with successful arc beyond the tip of the rubber. A bad coil will not successfully drive arc to the probe at the tip/mouth of the coil. Stop engine. Do this for all 6 coils, (install the one you just tested, remove a different one). Replace the bad ones. Do not run the engine this way longer than you need to. With the coil out of a given cylinder, that cylinder is still getting gasoline fuel, and that will in excess do bad things to you catalytic converter. (In excess.) You will also be able to smell the unburned gasoline coming out the tail pipe, and everywhere else in the vacinity of the vehicle. You can also pay attention to the vehicle running, and each removed cylinder (one at a time, replacing the others again) should drop the idle speed and make the engine run rougher noticeably. If the engine does NOT get worse on a given coil removal, that coil was bad. (Hence removing it did nothing, because it was already not working.)

You can measure the resistance on the Ignition Condensor. (This is a fancy capacitor. On the Nissan Maxima's, it is encased in plastic, with a connector, and does not look like you classic 1960's automobile capacitor in a meter cylinder. But it is one inside the plastic.) Test with an Ohm meter. If the two inputs are buzzed out as having continuity (shorted), buzz on an audio equipped meter on the continuity setting of your Ohm settings, then the condensor is bad, replace that. If it is anything else, its probably good. But to be super sure, look up the condensor Ohm setting value in the FSM. But usually, all you can really test is shorted (continuity)=bad, or not shorted, assume it is still good.

If none of these things hit. "Easy" stuff has been exhausted, and now you are into the really time consuming stuff. (Not that the above is all that easy. I will likely take 2-3 hours to check all the coils, especially is you have not remove the back ones before. The front 2,4,6 coils are pretty easy, the back 1,3,5 coils are a hassle. Harder to reach, harder to get out (throttle lines, and other things seem to be in the way, but can be finagled out of the way....)

If all the above fails. It could be the crankshaft position sensor (REF). You can spend the money and replace that.

If none of the above gets it. (And you are using OEM coils.... Don't talk to me if you are using aftermarket coils. Non-Nissan, Non-Hitachi coils might "fire" perfecting well, and allow the engine to run just fine, but the reference resistance is different, and it will upset the ECU which is throwing the code P1320. So on these Nissan's you really do need the original coils to make this stupid problem go away.)

Otherwise, now you have either:
An ECU problem. The driver's may be partly burned and be driving weakly (especially if you used after market coils, or if you ignored fixing the P1320+P030x problem for a long time. (And the ECU is expensive. On an old car, it might be done.....)
Or, you have a wiring problem....

P1320 can be caused by all sorts of wiring issues. Between the ECU and the power transistor in each of the coils. (This is the "control wire to each of the 6 coils).
Between the battery and condensor. (Less likely, as all cylinders would be effected.) Continuity should be good. (And usually is.)
Between the condensor and the coils, particularly on the individual coil specific splices of this circuit. Continuity should be good. (And usually is).
On these circuits, I would also check for a short to ground between the coil power signal pin, and ground, with the coil removed. Should be infinite resistance (no short). But might be some resistance, indicating a rubbed off insulation short on that wire somewhere, find it....

Between the crankshaft position Sensor (REF), and the circuit leading back to the ECU, there could be a short to ground.....

And finally, all those +12V circuits could be fine, and the problem could be in one or more grounds being bad, and thus providing for a poor closing of the current loop back to either ground battery (the Power signals), or the ground ECU (to the ECU signals on crank REF, or the power transistor control signals).

Checking all that stuff takes forever, and most mechanics are not good enough with electrical debug, or with an OScope to do the diagnosis. A REAL Pro, should be able to check ALL of the above using a OScope and volt meter in 2 hours. The OScope should be doable in 30 minutes to an hour. But they will all charge you much, much, much more than that in time.

If there is a bad ground, you can replace the wire, and the ground wire mounts.

If there is a bad control, then you can splice in a replacement wire for the bad one only. (Far less expensive than replacing the whole harness, especially if the bad wire is on the power circuit (12V batter, to condensor, to power input pin of each coil. That is all engine compartment). If the bad wire is between the coil and the ECU, or the crankshaft position sensor (REF) and the ECU, then that is more expensive, since you have to splice in on either side of the fireware connector, and the wire being bad on the inside (under dash, and behind the radio on Max/i30/i35) is hassle to get to and splice in... But still way easier than a harness replacement.

Any of those things can cause P1320 It is a "crappy" catchall error for the primary ignition circuit. The primary ignition circuit is the Battery, to Condensor, to Coil (technically the Power Transistor in the coil), to Coil (the primary coil winding, in the coil) to Ground. (Really Primary Coil to Secondary coil, to spark plug, to ground.) But when the problem happens on the secondary side, in the secondary winding, to spark plug, to ground, then a different code is supposed to be thrown. But sometimes, in what the ECU is looking at, it sometimes cannot tell if the problem is in the Primary or Secondary side, and then it will usually report the Primary side (P1320). And it cannot tell what the cause of the unexpectedly low voltage is. (Could be the coil. Could be the power transistor in the coil, could be the condensor is bad, and not holding the voltage high enough for long enough during the fire and burn times, could be crankshaft postion sensor giving an erroneous reading (because of bad sensor), or a CPS (crankshaft position sensor) giving a bad reading because of a bad wire....

The ECU cannot tell them apart (in the terribly crude and mostly useless Nissan Maxima ECU programming. So, you get the P1320.

Most of the time, its the coils.
Next, I'd replace the condensor (its only $15, and you can do it yourself in 5 minutes, youtube it.)

If you are on the extreme budget (like most of us). You can buy one front coil (easiest to replace the fronts). Put it in Cylinder2. Label the original. Reset the MIL (CEL). Drive for however long you usually have to wait on your car. (a day, a week, a month, 6 months...) See if the problem goes away. Yes, done. No, remove the new coil from that cylinder, put the original one back in, and move the new coil (not so new now) to the #4 cylinder. Repeat. Now Cyl#6.... If not it, then buy a rear coil (one of them). Do the same thing for cylinders 1,3,5. (Do the back one last, because these are harder to change out.) Often you can get it this way with patience....

Without patience. Then: Spend money, and replace them all, realizing that none of them might be bad (condensor, CPS sensor, or wires instead, or ECU....) But usually it is a coil. But use OEM coil(s). After markets have different resistance. They will FIRE and run just fine, but they will **** OFF THE ECU, which is looking for a VERY SPECIFIC voltage return signal pattern, and if the coil resistance is NOT BASICALLY identical to the OEM in your after market coil (and 9.5 of 10 aftermarkets read different than the OEMs, though "run" fine.)

If none of that woirks. You need a mechanic that knows how to run a (and has) an Oscilloscope. Most shops have them, but few mechanics (2 of 10) can really use them. And voltmeter (and then get billed lots of time. And time here running down OHM'ing wires, is costly.)

On an old car, it is just not worth it....

If the code fires once in 6 months..... Just reset the code. And if you need to get a smog, use the Nissan Smog drive procedure, and follow it exactly. (Perhaps twice. Its hard to follow, you have to drive EXACTLY 53MPH when it says. You need to use a soft pedal and be consistent. You need to run the start stop sections per its contents (at 40MPH in bits). See the FSM, or google for the Smog drive procedure. You might have to do it 2-3 times to get all the Smog monitors happy. Then smog it right away, before the P1320 comes back.... The car is running fine....

If the car is NOT running fine, e.g. if the power is *******, or you can hear the misfires, then check the code and see if you are getting a Pending Code. (One that has registered, but has not thrown a MIL light yet.) It might be a 301-306 to tell you the bad coil, or coil power or control wire.

It is an evil code, that P1320. Dreaded is the proper word. Because the ECU does a bad job localizing it, but knows "something" in the primary ignition circuit (or sometimes the secondary circuit effecting the primary circuit) is "bad", but its too stupid to know "what". And the mechanics don't want to run down a 30 item checklist to figure it out. That will be $2000 grand please.... hence the problem.

But 90% of the time, its a coil, and an Oscope can tell you which one(s).

Q45

I am actually having the same problem I had a misfire on cylinder 5 but replaced the ignition coil with one from AutoZone, and it seemed to fix it but the engine light was still on for an ignition coil so I decided to test them with a multi meter and they were all pulling the right voltage, did some research and thought I needed an oem coil so I ordered one and put it in today but it’s still pulling the p1320 code, car starts right up and doesn’t have a problem staying running, I’m not sure what it could be at this point
I don’t think it’s wiring since I tested them
and I don’t think it’s crankshaft sensor since my car doesn’t die like others

MesaGuy

This problem is almost always the coils. The Nissan ECU is overly sensitive, and it really wants to talk to the original Hitachi coils (those are the original Nissan coils, e.g. Hitachi coils). Unfortunately, the Hitachi coils don't have very good longevity. The original '00 coils had problems. Coils from 2001+ were better, but still have relatively shorter lifetimes compared to many other OEM's coils. As a comparison, Ford DG506 coils for my '99 Ford Expedition (or F150), typically last 200K miles. The Hitachi Coils rarely last longer than 100K miles. After market coils pretty much always have problems on the Nissan Maxima, '00-'04 (and Infiniti i30/i35).

So, 99% of the time, its one of the coils. Unfortunately, the Stupid ECU design (overly sensitive, and IDIOTICALLY designed in terms of diagnostic error output) is loathsome on the Nissan Maxima. (The DUMB ECU knows what coil it just fired (e.g.,, it knows what primary coil it just fired.), before it gets back a "bad" secondary voltage (on the downstream side of the coil). The P1320 code's problems is that there is only one, common shared secondary return circuit input to the ECU (to save money). So, just by looking at the signal alone, the ECU cannot tell you what Cylinder is having a problem. (But the ECU is stupid, as it knows what primary side coil it just fired, so knowing that - and then knowing it has an error return voltage on the common line, they could have put out a Cylinder specific code for P1320, or just set both P1320 and a P30X code to identify the cylinder coil with a problem. But alas, Nissan didn't do that, their ECU was designed by infantile idiot children.

95% of the time its the coils. And 5% of time, its the Condensor (capacitor). On the Nissan's, the capcitor is located in the wiring harness at the front of the engine, in front of the LH band (front bank). The wiring harness has a bulge in it, and the condensor component is located in that tape bulge. You have to unwrap it (carefully cut the tape), and then it just unplugs. Plug in a replacement, and rewrap. The part is only available from Nissan Dealers, or online Nissan Parts Dealters. For being a cheapo capacitor in a piece of platic, with a connector, it's terribly expansive. ($20 for a $10 cent capacitor, and a 25 cent plastic plug, and 10 cent case.) But that's autoparts.

The coils are expensive. Best prices on the Hitachi coils are usually at RockAuto.com (but you have to pay for shipping, and they are slow delivery to the West coast in my opinion, East coast pretty good delivery time.)

I recently (two years ago) had the evil P1320 show up, and run through all I have recommended to others. But I don't have a Oscilloscope and current and voltage probe - so I just bought a complete set of 6 Hitachi '01 coils, and installed them. (I had previously replaced the Condenser the year before, so I knew that was still good.)
f
Solved the problem. I also saved all the old coils. They all worked just fine, but one of them is throwing a problem in the secondary side, and upsetting the ECU of course. I keep these old coils, as if I ever get a P30X code (and know the cylinder), then I can swap in one of these coils. And if the P1320 comes back, then I can swap in a different one that old set.

Pretty much always the coils:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7060&jsn=898
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7060&jsn=899

A set of OEM Hitachi 6 coils COPS costs about $200 from either places above. (From the dealer ,they are $120 a piece, for the same part, e.g., $700).. And I would also replace the Electronics Primary-Side Voltage Condenser in the Wire Harness. (It "evens out" the input supply current and voltage,, and on these really old 20+ year old vehicles, the capacitor compoment in the condenser (that's all that is in there, a big automotive capacitor) has often failed as well, and there is not test or code for that, it just gets expressed as a P30X code or a P1320 code. Unfortunately,, the condensor part for the oldest vehicles (such as the first 6 months of production '00 vehicles are no longer made, the part is unavailable. In this case then, you would have to remove the part, and take it to someone with experience with electronics. They could crack open the plastic case carefully with an Exacto knife, and then de solder the failed Capacitor component inside, replace it with a new equivalent capacitor, and solder it back up, glue the plastic back together, and tape it up for you good as new..... The capacitor is going to be $1.00 to $5, but the labor and know how of the electronics person will cost you whatever they want. ($100 or less, but you may know someone.) Its not a hard job for someone familiar with soldiering iron, and electronic components.

Most people, even the Nissan Mechanics do not realize the importance of this condenser part in the scheme of things wrt ignition coil codes.

Condensor Part # for the '00 Maxima is:
Part No.: 28351-89901
CONDENSER IGNITION COIL
[Maxima | 2000]
Looks like this (usuallyu grey plastic, about the length of your thumb, and about 1 1/2 the width of your thumb.

But these are getting very hard to find these days. As I said above, you may have to repair (rebuild) the one you have, which would involve VERY carefully splitting the plastic case, replacing the Capacitor component inside (desoldier, re-soldier) , and then glueing the case it back together. The Case has a connector molded into it. (that is the function of the plastic, to provide protection, and the connector male surface.) If you just rescue the connector portion, keep the guts, you can replace the capacitor inside, and then tape it all back up, or perhaps use shrink-wrap on it and create a suitable part. Obviously, buying one if you can find it is easiest.

Found ti still available here:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...CAL;4=GLE;5=AT)