FlawleZ

iTrader: (1)

So both my mother and a good friend have 5th Maximas (Mom's car is an I30). Both are Auto's with severe transmission slipping problems which has gone on for some time now. I know there was a TSB a long time ago about the 2nd-3rd slip but this isn't related to shifting at all its directly related to how much throttle is applied. Once the engine reaches a certain torque or power threshold the transmission starts to let go and the car really won't even accelerate. Its really sucky to be honest.

Having said that, I gather its a line pressure problem that a lot of the 5th gens have been affected with and needs to be corrected either with an increase in line pressure or a new solenoid altogether. My question is, what are the options for increasing the line pressure? Is this only available through a dealer programmer over the OBD2 or are there aftermarket solutions? I'm essentially looking for the cheapest/most cost effective solution to fixing the problem.

pkrainert

If I am reading your post correctly I had the same issue. I changed out my VB (maxtuning) and its perfect now. I had the same problem in my 96 and changed the VB and the Solenoids and fixed the problem. I think it is a fairly common issue, and it seem to be the VB most the time from my experience.

DCZC

+1 Same basic symptoms, I already have a transgo kit, just need money for labor and trying to decide if I should replace the solenoids at the same time

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I had a horrendous 1-2 slip shortly after I purchased the car. Changed the VB and have yet to see the same problem (7 years, 90k).

I also had a strange experience not too long ago when trying a different stage VB, and it would be fine until a certain speed/power, and then pretty much fail to go anywhere.
It turned out it was a faulty VB. Put the old VB back in, and went back to being fine.

As far as your problem is concerned....My assumption is that it is one of three things, TCM, VB, solenoids. I would almost bet on the VB though.

Also, just an FYI, but there are 2 detailed write-ups on the trans go kit, this is if you wouldn't care for paying for labor.

Another side note, I wouldn't replace the solenoids just for fun, I would verify that they are the problem because changing the solenoids really is an easy job, so treating it as an "ZOMG!!111 I don't want to have to go in there twice" type of deal isn't the right way to go at it because a solenoid change is very easy.

pkrainert

I didn't change the Solenoids on the current car I had when I did the VB but I did on my 4th gen. It is so nice to not slip between shifts anymore lol.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

My solenoids are stock.

But my point was that it's an easy job and unless they're at fault, I wouldn't replace them. If you do find a problem with them later on down the road, it's easy to do.

FlawleZ

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your reply. I'm assuming you just replaced the OEM valve body with the maxtuning one? I actually just called over at Maximum Tuning and spoke with Jeff and described the problem as I was going to ask about pricing and availability. He said honestly it sounded like the transmissions were already toast and needed a rebuild and just replacing the valve body wouldn't make much if any difference.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I have 2 extra VB's lying around.

One is OEM and the other is stage II.

pkrainert

Hmm, I am not sure it worked for me. I bought a used Maximum Tuning off a guy here for 220 shipped. Only thing I don't like is the 1-2 shift at normal throttle is now noticeable.

So when does it slip exactly? I may have miss read your post. For me it was anything above 3/4 throttle and it would rev forever and do nothing at the shift point. Almost like I hit a rev limiter and just decided not to shift for 2-3 seconds.

If it is slipping at any point in time no matter what rpm you are at but you apply a decent amount of throttle you probably have bad clutch packs or a torque converter.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

PUR MMI's & an ETL will help this tremendously, if you don't already have them.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...b-install.html

I should have listened to Kevlo911 since the beginning.

pkrainert

Wait, it will help my hard 1-2 shift? Because other than that I have zero issues. Nice clean crisp shifts for me now. And no slippage at all.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I had the OEM mounts for a long time nad it was embarrassing and a little annoying during part throttle 1-2 shifts.

Recently I went through this "ordeal" in that I ordered a lower stage VB because I though that would fix it.

Turns out, after a convo with a few people on here (Aaron92SE most namely, and finding a good deal on MMI's) I decided to try the PUR mounts before I installed the "new" VB.

And yes, Aaron was right, I feel so much more connected to the car now, gives a very crisp feeling, no slam shifts, and you can hardly feel it shift now.

Then I got really ambitious and purchased the ETL from Aaron and it improves the feeling even more.

I would suggest to anyone with any sort of "shift kit" to definitely invest in a pair of PUR motor mounts. One of the best mods I've done to date and I've done a few.

pkrainert

Ooooh okay, sorry I totally misunderstood what you were getting at... I will have to look into it. Thanks!

At the risk of soudning like an idiot (not hard for me to do) What are "PUR MMI's & an ETL"? Sorry to side track this thread BTW!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Polyurethane mounts from ES or custom filled by you, or purchased by someone who fills them.

And ETL = engine Torque Link, NWP (Aaron92SE) sells these.

FlawleZ

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried anything similar to this on a 5th gen?

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ss-5kohms.html

pkrainert

Transmission mount or motor mount? I am assuming tranny.

You should do a quick search, I saw a thread on this a few weeks ago IIRC.

I had the DR mod in my 4th gen and I liked it, it didn't help my tranny problem but I liked it.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

No, it is the subframe mounts. "Front and rear" per-se' (radiator and rear manifold). Tons of info on that too, and I only changed the mounts I just mentioned.

DR's on 5th gens is the same concept except many different pots were tried with no difference. All or nothing.

Again, the info is out there. Jime's write-up is in the N2O forum, but his computer has since crashed and with that crash went all his pictures. It's self explanatory though. Sans the small piece of ingenuity needed to accommodate the e-throttle if 02+.

This will come with an SES even if a WOT switch is applied.

pkrainert

This http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1116 ?

I only see a front mount on this site.

I also see a comment about added idle vibration, is this very noticeable?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'm not going to reinvent the wheel and spoonfeed you the truth/facts/links re: ES bushings. The info is out there re: AT/MT differences, what needs to be done for an MT bushing to fit onto an AT subframe, the differences in color (ES bushings).

Vibration at idle is very slightly noticeable, but is gone after 1-2 MPH

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114

KDog125

I too think I may be having a AT problem...I just bought the car 3 days ago its an 03 SE and has 65kmiles on it...AT CHECK light came on for 8 seconds today...Not sure what it is...I'm just very frustrated since i've only had it for a few days...Any info?

HemiDat

I have a 01 wit AT problems at random times I could be driving n I can't get over maybe 30mph as if it was stuck in first gear n revs up I also need all 4 mounts trans n motor could me needing mounts cause this problem or something else