So I've had it. Ive been looking at tranny shops for almost 2 months to do an AT Rebuild on my 5.5gen. So far, all i've been hearing is BS from one shop to the next... oh its the valvebody, its the clutchpacks, its the solenoids, etc. Yea i know it could be any of those, or all... Ive been to about 8 shops and called 10+. All are saying mixed things and no one ever even hooked it up to a computer to check it? Where can I go to get an honest opinion and price? I live in South Florida, and everyone here is out to empty your wallet.. im on the verge of taking it upon myself to just buy a damn solenoid pack and do it myself. If it doesnt work i guess ill take up a hobby learning how to rebuild an Automatic Transmission. Im just fed up with not knowing what actually is the problem with the tranny!! ill give you all a recap as far as the symptoms go so MAYBE someone on here will have advice...

7 months ago - Light slipping from 3 to 4
5 Months ago - light slipping from 2 to 3, and 3 to 4
4 Months ago - Light slip follwed by occasional slam from 2 to 3,
light slip 3 to 4
3.5 Months ago - Decided to change ATF, as I was expecting to rebuild soon,
knowing it had a possibility of further damage. Changed ATF,
Things were great for a week. Then, Lost 3rd and 4th gear.
3 Months ago - drained and filled ~10qts Mobil 1 Syn. Car would start and
drive in first only for 5 mins then when warmed up, 2nd would
kick in.
2.5 months ago - 2nd gear works fine, no warming up needed.

Today - I've been driving the car every day, more or less 20-30 miles with
only 2 gears. I drive in "D" up to 35mph, it shifts to second, I drive in
second up to 45, then it tries to go into 3rd, but instead goes to 1st
near 5500k. Ive Been combating this problem by driving in second to
an acceptable speed and putting it back in "D" where it just sits at idle and i can coast until its time to speed up again. I can either shift it back into 2nd and drive, or if i lightly put my foot on the pedal while in "D" it will engage second gear and I can drive, but if I punch it too hard, it will just rev high in first.


I hope this can paint a picture in someones mind and may help them help me pinpoint what is wrong with my tranny so that I dont get screwed in the deceptive game that is AT repair. Thanks, and I truly appreciate the insight. 5.5gen 4 life.

 

Sir, you can call Level 10 (973-827-1000) and speak with our engineering dept. Perhaps they will be glad to help you. I can tell you this is a typical issue and we have discovered the fix. Feel free to visit our web site (www.level10.com)and see for your self.Please be advised I am not doing this to get business as we have plenty of that but to help and we certainly can help.

 

Could have some internal issues that will require a tear-down but I'd probably start with the solenoids. How does the fluid look? Should be red/pink and not have a burnt odor. If it is dark and smells burnt, you most likely need a full rebuild. You would be FAR better off getting a low mileage used automatic than hoping you find the one shop in a thousand that actually knows how to rebuild an import transmission.

 

same thing happened to mine at about 120k. i dropped the pan and discovered a tone of metal in it. the valve body is about $700-1000 and i could fine a used trans for alot less then that. i ended up going that route. i put a low mileage trans (40K) out of a i30 in my car and haven't had a problem yet.

 

Just what do you guys charge for a full rebuild with your fix. I still have my old trans and wouldn't mind getting it built to handle the abuse.

 

well scottwax, the fluid looks nice now, only because I drain/filled many times. Prior to the change, dark brown, somewhat reddish, with no noticeable burnt odor... As for the Level 10 site, this looks quite intriguing.. a rebuild kit and valve bodies.. I like, however, there is no info on the site about the location...

 

and hondaeatingtsi, Are u sure it was an i30 or an i35...

 

just get a used low mileage AT from a junkyard and swap it over. never rebuild

 

For cost concerns, I agree.

And change the fluid all the time

 

If the fluid isn't burnt, then the clutch packs are probably okay and the problem is likely the TCM, valve body or solenoids.

 

i'd throw in a used tranny in before i rebuild it.

 

In the interest of helping, can you tell us what the typical issue is and what's causing it?

 

typical issues with these Nissans are valve body issues, we identified it as a design flaw, we simply re engineer it to fix the sman shifting.

 

Sir, You may not need a rebuilt trans, just a valve body fix, that we have 100% results with.

 

Hi Scott, we are located in northern New Jersey, and in most customers UPS there valve bodies in, and once it hits our floor, it takes only like 2 days.

 

Im pretty sure the tag said i30. it may have said i35 but i dont remember. its been a few months. if i can find the paper work on it i will see. but the i35 makes more sense.


just like level 10 said. every shop i contacted said that the valve body is the issue. and that would be extra $ on top of the standard rebuild. and i wasnt gonna sink thata much into a trans with 120K on it. also i was in a tight spot and needed to have it done a 2 days. thats why i went the used route

 

Sir, if you drive it here , I can re engineer the valve body in the same day

 

I'm sure he wouldn't want to make a trip from S. Florida to NJ.

I agree with other and Level10, valve bodies are typically the cause. Some people alleviate some issues by installed a Transgo shift kit.

 

My 4AT 5.5 gen was totaled back in January, I have a 6 speed car now.

Definitely had considered valve body modifications to my other car though. I did have the really soft, sometimes even slightly slipping 2-3 upshift when the engine/transmission were cold. Otherwise it shifted pretty good but not as well as it could have.