So a few days ago my car randomly started to bog down to about 200-400rpms randomly when I would start it then come right back to 800. So I checked the code and its a 113 IAT sensor input to high (or something like that). I searched and searched and couldn't find a straight answer on how to fix this on a 5.5gen (03). I know now that its in the MAF but does this mean I need a new MAF? What can I do to fix this? For referance I have a DIY 3" MAF housing and a SAFCII (the only two things I think that could possibly have anything to do with this.

 

You may have to replace the MAF if the IAT sensor is bad. There doesn't seem to be a place to get the thermistor that serves as the IAT. BUT...

There is a thread that tells you how to clean the IAT sensor. The title of the thread is something like "How to clean your MAF". But there is no guarantee that cleaning it will take care of the problem but a lot of people have had success doing it.

Also there is another thread that tells how to bypass the IAT function by installing a resistor in place of the IAT sensor. There are negatives to doing this and they are discussed in the thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-2001-maf.html

 

So the small piece of "wire", I guess you can all it, on 02-03 MAFs is the IAT sensor. Where as on 00-01 there is no "wire" and there is a separate IATS. Correct?

 

That's right. The IAT is in the air scoop that sits over the radiator.

 

There is indeed......See this :
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-pictures.html

And from the same topic see this :
http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.c...1&pr_id=145443

I used the aftermarket wire or themistor when I converted a 2k1 MAF to my 2k2 (I didn't want to mess with the original MAF I replaced) ....... It's doing the job perfectly fine . Never had a CEL for IAT issue or any other..

 

This is good. Glad to get corrected.

 

Alright. The MAFS has a heating element that heats to a certain temperature and the incoming air that is being sucked into the car by the engine is cooling the heating element down and the IntakeAirTemperature is telling the ECU what temperature the air coming in is and how much the element is being cooled off. Your jerry intake is making your engine run rich allowing more air than calibrated for and it knows IAT's are at fault.

Afterall it is just detonation. The only thing at risk is a new headgasket.

 

I don't understand what you are saying here. I always thought that more air in the fuel/air mixture would make it leaner, not richer. Could you explain this a little more?

 

I was assuming the same until I used a wideband o2 on a dyno with and without. And my results on numerous vehicles without tuning was rich. Rich or lean it is still wrong. You know as well as I do it's unaccounted for air into the engine. It's just not calibrated for a bigger MAF housing.

My 2007 Mustang throws rich codes when untuned with a bigger MAFS housing. As well as my 2 other cars.

 

SAFCII allows for global correction of a larger MAF housing. Now if he's got the settigns correct, there should be no problem. (IN/OUT settings that is).

These car will run lean as heck w/ a larger MAF housing and no MAF scaling &/or fuel adjustments.

 

You are right. With the SAFC and the bigger MAF housing and injectors it all runs totally fine. After I cleaned the MAF it hasn't bogged down at all when it starts. It seems that I have to clean my MAF alot to get rid of random codes such as this....maybe Bel Air has dirty air lol

I have a wideband as well and when I put my injectors on and my bigger MAF housing I was running super lean with out a tune. I've never heard of a engine running rich because of more air....

 

I tested my previous cars which were V8's and when I was untuned and using an aftermarket intake with larger MAFS housings my results were rich. Results vary although I should not have assumed rich.