so, decided to take the car out for a nice drive tonight, nothing crazy, no high speeds, just a cruise. so, i am a mile or so away from home sitting at a traffic light, and all of the sudden car has zero power, stumbles, ect. didnt want to push it past 2k. plugged in the obd2 scanner...7 codes

po300
po138
po158
po1146
po1166

i know the 138 and 158 are for my rear o2s, since my sim is dead. car sounds like its gotten louder the past few days. was backfiring a lot when i downshift and coast to a stop, lots of pops coming out the muffler. looking the 1146 and 1166 i couldnt really find any definitive answers.

anyone had these codes? i didnt reset them yet..

edit 1166 seems to me front o2, still looking for 1146 i hope both of them didnt crap out on me..

 

P1146 is the heated O2 sensor # 2 bank 1
P1126 is the heated O2 sensor # 2 bank 2

See page EC-504 of the FSM.

 

so all 4 codes 138, 158, 1146 and 1166 have to do with the secondary o2s? not quite sure why the car would not idle right and rev like crap

 

The O2 sensors are sending either too rich or too lean signals to the ECU and it is trying to adjust the fuel mixture and spark timing to get the proper readings.

 

ok, im gonna reset it tomorrow morning and then throw in the sim. i went for over a year without the sim working and this never happened..this has only been maybe 4 months with a dead sim...*sigh*

 

If your old sim crapped out, and you haven't put the new one in yet, why did it take this long for problems to emerge? Or do you just not drive your car at all anymore?

Wait, you just posted. A year? You've been going a year with no secondary O2 data?

 

i drive the car everyday. i dont know why it just happened, when i had the old sim that didnt work i drove the car for over a year with a dead sim. this one has been dead for maybe 4 months..

 

Stranger things have happened. NmexMAX simply zip-tied his secondaries under his engine cover, and he's fine without pre-cats.

I mentioned that to my mechanic. Got laughed at. Dammit, Manny.

 

im gonna reset the ses tomorrow and see if it fixes it. if it does, i will thrown on the sim, i just need to get off my butt and do it, shouldnt take more than 5 minutes..

its just weird with the non revving. my dads o2 went on his sentra and his car ran fine..i dunno..

 

Yeah I have one secondary zip-tied under the engine cover and the other isn't even plugged in ... It was rusted into the stock manifold when I did my header install so I just didn't worry about it. I just put a black piece of vinyl on my gauges so I can't see my SES light. Again, .....

 

Wow, you've just given yourself completely over to the dark side, haven't you?

 

 

My secondaries are plugged into my primary ports and I have no secondary codes, even though I have headers and no cats within a 5 mile radius of my car. I only have primary codes since they are in my garage, nowhere near my car. But, the car runs fine.

03BlkSETE has the zip tied method and a few others.

 

well, i am going to clear the codes in a bit, and i hope it makes the car driveable...still didnt think an o2 issue would cause limp mode

 

No, it shouldn't, unless more than 2 were dead.

If the 2 primaries are dead or not found, it will use the secondaries as the primaries (as in my case).

If more than 2 and up to all 4 are dead, I would ASSUME the ECU would revert to the MAF.

is 0300 again. ...

Mult. Cyl. misfire ... that would cause the sounds you're describing.

 

so manny assuming that logic, if i clear it and the car still sucks, and i install the sim, you think the problem will go away? i also hear its very rare for 2 o2s to go out together..

also, no maf code came up..the 0300 is random misfire

 

Not the zip ties but I have no cats between my primaries and secondaries on my hotshot headers. The secondaries are installed in the y pipe of the headers. Had my headers since 04. Never has thrown a code.

Does the car rev past 2k, or did you not want to push it past 2K?

 

Post edit.


hehe yeah, i think it was 6spd_hayes that had them ziptied.

 

i didnt want to push it past 2k. car runs like crap, so i didnt want to chance it. ok, im going to go out and look at it now, its supposed to get really hot later on..will let you guys know whats up..

 

Whenever I unplug my MAF or **** it off by unplugging my WBO2 while the car is running, it will run perfectly until 2k.

Your doesn't sound that way. Yours sounds exactly the way my 4th gen sounded when I had a dead coil. (The way you're describing it anyhow).

I would go ahead and rev it as much as it will go. The ECU is typically failsafe (if no O2 sensors are reading, the ECU will dump a lot of fuel to avoid a lean condition)

 

ok, this is retarded. cleared the codes and car still didnt run right. best way to describe it, sounds like a wrx. as i am driving the ses starts flashing. pull over, pull codes..0302, 0138, 0158. i know the last 2 are from my dead sim, but the others i pulled last night cleared. ok, so IIRC, 0302 is cyl 2 front bank pass side right? pull coil plug, start car, same problem. pull injector plug, same problem..so whats left spark plug? i say ok, i have new ones at home let me swap it. get in the car, and now it runs perfect?? wtf??

 

When I've had coil-packs fail on me, it wasn't an all-or-nothing situation. It varied. And there were periods of full functionality in between, for days on end.

 

Switch the coil around. Process of elimination. You just proved that that coil is not working. I'd leave the plug alone and assume it's the coil.

 

so coils dont just die? and if i got p0302, doesnt that tell me what coil it is?

 

Yeah, they pretty much do. Yup, 2 is cyl 2. IIRC.

 

I think what NmexMAX means is that the coil pack either works or it doesn't. However, that on/off behavior can itself fluctuate. When I had coilpacks on their way out, they failed in fits and starts over the course of a few weeks.

 

well i just drove 50 miles and its ok, but im not gonna chance it. where did you get the coils from john? your mechanic or somewhere online? keep hearing oem is the way to go...

also, when they were going out, was the car almost undriveable?

 

The first time (3 years ago now), the Dealership replaced the failed coil with a genuine (sic) Nissan part. I think the part alone cost $120 or thereabouts, plus service time, diagnosis, and other BS.

The second time (1+ years ago), my mechanic replaced it. The cost was $85 for the coil-pack, listed as aftermarket, but actually branded NISSAN OEM, so go figure. He knew the aftermarket item was actually OEM from his source, which is why we went that route.

The first time, yes, the car was pretty much undriveable. Very rough, wouldn't rev past 2 or 3K (don't remember exactly), and couldn't go up an incline to save its life. When it first started happening, I would shut it down immediately, and it was fine when restarting. Sometimes it would run horribly rough for 30 seconds, then be fine. Eventually, it got so bad that I didn't dare risk driving it anymore, and had it towed to the dealership on a flatbed.

The second time, I knew exactly what was happening, and took it straight to my mechanic before it got any worse.

Fortunately, both were in the front bank, so the UIM didn't need to get pulled.

 

thanks john, thats the same problems i am having, time to hit up a bud who works at nissan and get one, cause like you said when its not working the car can barely get out of its own way..haha

 

I understand how disconcerting it can seem when your car suddenly starts bucking around like that. Replace the coil-pack, and everything will be right as rain.

If you're not firing on one or more cylinders, I believe you're flushing fuel through the system, which can ignite in the cats and cause damage there. Well, in your case, the main cat, LOL. My point being, don't push your luck, Hotshot.

 

yeah, this car was 100% problem free from day one. it was weird how the car was running great then nothing..reminded of my old turbo sentra when i would blow off an IC coupling and the car wouldnt run..emailed my buddy, awaiting a price and if its in stock..

 

yeah, definitely sounds like a bad coil. I melted a coil and my car was an STI for a couple days before I replaced the coil

 

coil ordered 88 shipped should be here by friday

 

Could be the o2 sensor wiring... hotshot, I haven't read through the entire thread but can u drive past 3400rpms??, might just be bad o2 sensor wires... mines did that before

 

The "entire thread", eh?

 

Go type it in dictionary.com n tell me what's the definition for the word

 

LOL! Now it's twice as funny.

 

??? ... you really have a weird sense of humor

 

Comparing the time it took you to to discuss the time you saved not reading the "entire" collection of 33 posts preceding your own...

...hence the chuckle. It's fun.

 

It didn't take much time, I thought by now you know that at that time of day I'm txtn around a steering wheel????... no?