Ok, to start off I've been on the board a while and I did plenty of searching PRIOR to posting.

I know its rear bank cylinder 1 (p0301) I also know that the P1320 has been a PAIN for several members to solve so I figured I'd get info prior to throwing cash at it.

About a month ago the car threw a P1320 code but no miss. The car had seemed a bit sluggish prior for a few months but I was lazy and figured PIA ks code. After clearing the P1320 and driving a few more days, the SES lit back up and within that timeframe I noticed a notable miss at idle (*think chevy 350 with a cam)

Coils were all replaced by dealer in 2007 under warranty prior to my purchasing the car (Sewell Infiniti of DFW)

Input greatly appreciated
-DC

 

2007 -----> 2011 = 4 years , on a car know to eat coil packs on breakfast ... BTW , don't trust dealers : they say coil packs were replaced , you think 6 were done and probably only 1 or 2 new ones actually were put.IMO I trust what I buy and install (or at least seeing them installed).
Good luck.

 

I did the testing with the OHM meter and had some varied results. I ended up replacing one coil that I suspected as the bad one, both by readings and by a hunch. I got lucky. I had no miss at idle, or the unplug method would have been the way to go.

 

Thanks,

I dont mind buying a coil or two but I dont have the cash free to just drop 300 on a maybe fix.

Also part of the reason I posted was I had read threads that attributed to the P1320 as being a MAF issue?


As I said I'm hoping to get some hands on experience from one of the .orger that Had these codes and fixed the issue.

At this point my next step is to buy a coil pack for cylinder one and change the plugs to see if that fixes the issue.

hanks for the input and keep it coming

-DCZC

 

I had p1320 and it was a coil. I'd play with that idea first, as maf issues are generally felt like hitting a wall in the RPM band, such as "my car won't rev past 3500 RPM" etc

You stated you feel a lope at idle, as if you had a mild cammed v8, which is definitely a coil.

 

Time to replace the cylinder #1 coil. Even the replacement coils go bad after awhile. Pull the spark plug and check it. Depending on the mileage of the car it might be time to replace all 6 plugs. Don't bother with cheap non-OEM coils. Use only OEM coils. You can find them for about $80 each online.

 

As a side note, the car seems much less stout than when I bought it in early '10. Are these issues linked to power loss? For the last couple months (even prior to the codes) it seems like the car struggles to get past 80MPH and the RPM's seem to rise much slower

Thanks for feedback guys. I'm going to try to get in touch with DaveB from the forum for the coil.

Any info about power loss is much appreciated as well.

-DCZC

 

Mileage is 109k I bought is with 82K

 

With a bad coil(s) you have unreliable spark, which equals less power. period.

 

Pull out one of the spark plugs near the radiator (they are easiest to get to) and check it. Original owner probably never replaced them. You might want to order 6 plugs along with your coil.

 

Cool,

ANy good recommendations on quality sparkplugs? NGK? Denso? Iridium? Platinum?

Thanks guys
-DC

 

NGK Iridium. Always.

 

Most of the time, the KS code will result from another issue. Whether it be coils or even o2 sensors.

I had a '99 and have a KS from it I replaced thinking it was the issue. It was a coil pack.

 

I say replace the coil #1. I assume this is on your 2000 I30? If so, the rear bank is still fairly easy to re and re compared to the 3.5L engine. If you don't want to buy new, buy ones from the junkyard. Chances are they will work.

Anecdotally, what I've noticed over the years on 4th and 5th gens is that people who idle their cars excessively tend to have shorter ignition coil lifespans, like if they have modded sound systems and need the engine running to keep charge, or just subconsciously idle when talking to people or waiting to pick someone up. Just a non-scientific observation of local Maxima guys and others I know with Maximas who I've met over the years and who end up posting looking for coils at some point or tell me about it at work.

 

Ok guys,

About to bite the bullet and buy a coil and plugs.
Have any of you used BWD coils from Advance auto?

I can get the coil with a lifetime warranty plus 6 NGK iridium XI plugs for less than 80 out the door

Im not against buying oem at all just intrigued by the idea of a lifetime warranty

 

I bought my coil from action auto (needed it that day.) So far, no problems, 6000 miles and counting.

 

my p1320 code, along with a misfire was resolved with a change of all 6 spark plugs. I haven't changed the coils yet, since the misfire, and the other codes I had went away with just this.

 

Stay away from AA. I bought a coil from them and it looked like someone else had returned it. It was too big to fit in the box it came in. The car immediately threw 1320 after I installed it. Had to pay to ship it back to get my money back. Buying the plugs from them is fine. You can usually find 30-40% off coupon codes online.

 

Thanks for the input.

Does anyone have feedback for the NGK Iridium IX plugs vs the Gpower plugs/Vpower plugs?

I'm into reliability and longevity,

Thanks in advance,

DCZC

 

Why not just stick with the original platinum NGK PFR5G-11 plugs? I replaced mine at 100K and they looked like they were hardly used.