Eirik

iTrader: (2)

My clutch pedal will go to the floor with normal resistance, but then it only comes back maybe 25% of the way and I have to lift it with my foot to go the rest of the distance.

Worse yet, it doesn't seem to be actually disengaging the clutch or something, as I can't shift out of gear once the car is on. I forced it out of 1st and into R and the synchros howled in protest. The clutch seems to let out okay, as far as engaging it goes, but then you press the clutch in and can't get the car out of gear! Turn the car off, let off clutch pedal, push clutch pedal in, shift into 1st, goes in like butter, turn car on, take off like normal, go to shift into 2nd, won't happen.

I'm reading that this is probably a bad master/slave cylinder? The pedal was always hard to push when I test drove the car and made (still makes) loud squeaking noises whenever you press it. What the crap is going on?

The brake/DOT fluid in there is dark brown and smelly but, naturally, isn't low and I can't see any leaks.

And, yes, I just drove this car back 60 miles from where I bought it without any problems.

FML.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

The clutch system is really straightforward. Essentially, you are manually depressing a piston at the beginning of a closed system(manual linkage from clutch pedal to master) which creates hydraulic pressure in the line(master to slave). That hydraulic pressure pushes the piston in the slave cyl into the clutch fork which then pivots pulling the diaphragm on the pressure plate to release the clutch disc from the flywheel. Incorrect pressure caused by a fluid leak or air in the system will effect the efficiency of the final engagement. If the hydraulic system does not release the pressure plate with enough clearance, your symptoms happen.

Check your fluid level. Check for wetness in the line or near the master or slave. Bleed the system.

Also, that squeak you hear when you depress the pedal is most likely the spring. It may need to be cleaned and lubricated(I use white lithium), or it could be making contact with another object. A quick inspection should point you in the right direction.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha. I had a friend come over to check out my new wheels and whatnot and after we failed to replicate any of the symptoms he discovered, to my utter chagrin, that what probably happened is this:
1. The E-brake is so badly out of adjustment that only the fina click on the lever actually engages the rear brakes, so I didn't yank the crap out of it to get it to ratchet that last time.
2. I was parked on a fairly steep incline.
3. I THOUGHT the e-brake was engaged, but it wasn't. Yeah, that means that only the fact it was in 1st gear prevented the car from rolling down the driveway.

If I had let it creep forward in 1st, then applied the brake to take the pressure off the gear, he wagers it would have gone straight in without any issue.

Unfortunately, this does not explain why the clutch pedal stopped returning to full height, but he thinks it would more likely be the return spring than the master cylinder itself. It's in such a crappy spot to get access to, and we could not replicate the problem later that night, that he advises waiting for the thing to give more definite signs that it isn't working before changing the cylinders out.

I'll definitely look into draining, refilling, and bleeding the system, though.

I just noticed that your avatar is a stick figure hucking a disc! All this time, I thought it was a guy running with a rock.

Amave

I came in here to pretty much post this

also look by the clutch pedal to se if there is any brake fluid coming out of the piston area

i had a Hyundai that was leaking brake fluid from the clutch pedal behind the carpet so you couldnt see the fluid unless you lifted the carpet

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

Is this the 6th gen you just bought?

It might be your bracket, I will check that first.
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...l-bracket.html

mahanddeem

it's really bad luck Eirik...Don't let this spoil the 6th gen celebration ...