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Clunking when Turning

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Old 07-03-2011 | 04:59 PM
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OnOiShNo0dl3Z's Avatar
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Clunking when Turning

Recently, I've started getting a clunking when turning right with load.

If I'm letting the car take the turn in neutral or in gear with foot off pedal, everything is normal.

If I'm on the gas through a right turn that involves more than a 45 degree turn of the steering wheel, I SOMETIMES get a clunking noise.

When it happens, it doesn't only clunk once, it seems to keep clunking until I either get off the gas or straighten out the car.

Can anyone help me figure out what it is?
Old 07-03-2011 | 05:51 PM
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Could be the axle. Are you lowered by any chance?
Old 07-03-2011 | 07:21 PM
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No, I'm not lowered at all.

I'm also suspecting the passenger side axle. It was recently replaced (less than a year ago) and so were the struts.

Stock Springs, KYB GR2 Struts.

Unfortunately, the axle is the advanceauto GSP brand. The thread about how they're crap seemed to pop up about a month after I had mine installed.

However, I don't experience any of the symptoms that people seem to complain about with these GSP axles going bad.

Anyone have an idea what's being affected here? If it's not hurting anything (doubtful), then I'd like to just leave it alone and just deal with the noise.
Old 07-03-2011 | 07:29 PM
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check your CV boots
Old 07-04-2011 | 09:30 PM
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last I checked (couple weeks ago and after the noise started occurring), the CV boots looked fine. I will double check. any other suggestions?
Old 07-04-2011 | 10:32 PM
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Does it make the same sound going over bumps?
Old 07-04-2011 | 11:15 PM
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could be the endlinks too, but usually you'll hear thumping going straight too
Old 07-05-2011 | 08:02 AM
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Nope, not getting any noise going over bumps. Strictly on turns. Endlinks and bushings were changed at the same time I had the axle done for both sides.
Old 07-05-2011 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by OnOiShNo0dl3Z
Nope, not getting any noise going over bumps. Strictly on turns. Endlinks and bushings were changed at the same time I had the axle done for both sides.
I had the same problem as well, but turns out that the bolts on the endlinks were loose. I would double check the torque on them. If not, I would follow this steps suggested by one of the member. "Stabilizer link, Sway bar bushing, Strut mount, Strut, Tie rod/ball joint (based on 3-9 or 6-12 tests), Motor Mounts"
Old 07-05-2011 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by The6spdMax
"Stabilizer link, Sway bar bushing, Strut mount, Strut, Tie rod/ball joint (based on 3-9 or 6-12 tests), Motor Mounts"
Yeah definitely check the tie rods and motor mounts. I experienced a similar noise and it turned out it was my driver side tie rod.
Old 07-07-2011 | 08:52 AM
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I just did a fair piece of front end work, ES lower arm bushings, ES sway bar bushings, new outer tie rod ends, new ball joints. Result is much tighter steering, car used to float pretty bad above 100, hit 120 the other day on a straight and it was pretty darn solid.

BUT, driving to work the other day I did a rapid back and forth test, like a pretty fast wobble while driving about 70 and I got a hard knock on the driver's side. Sigh...here we go again.

I don't get this driving straight over ANY number of bumps, just in vigorous back and forth motion at high speeds. TBH, I doubt this would be replicated in normal driving, but I want to handle it.

So you guys are saying bad axles will do that? If AZ and Advance are crap, who makes good ones?
Old 07-07-2011 | 09:40 AM
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Motor mounts most likely. Advance Auto axles are warranted for life.
Old 07-08-2011 | 07:58 PM
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I had the same problem ( I think)

For me it was the end links. to test bounce the front of the car up and down as hard as you can to cause it to make the sound. For me bouncing the opposite side cause the noise. I had replaced my end links days earlier (if you didn't but had front end work done the mechanic may of removed them to gain access) The bolt hole on the control arm (where one end of the end link attaches) is a slot instead of a hole and the force of the wheel moving up and down while driving looses it (especially if you follow the haynes torque specifications). To fix, jack the control arm up with the wheel off to simulate the cars resting position and tighten the endlink bolt. The bolt should be a the bottom of the slot. Hope this helps.
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