start/dies, unplugged this hose, fixed problem....help
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 34
From: hollyyyywooood
start/dies, unplugged this hose, fixed problem....help
So I have the common start, then dies syndrome 2000 maxima 230k miles auto.
So my question is, when I unplug this hos in the picture, car starts when given gas at the same time then runs fine, after it heats up, starts to stumble on idle at lights, then have to floor gas to make it run lke it should.......searched and searched, help!
P.S. Im familiar with the 4th gen ecu and checking codes (screw/blinking lights), dont tell me I have to go to autozone to get my cel checked
Thanks
So my question is, when I unplug this hos in the picture, car starts when given gas at the same time then runs fine, after it heats up, starts to stumble on idle at lights, then have to floor gas to make it run lke it should.......searched and searched, help!
P.S. Im familiar with the 4th gen ecu and checking codes (screw/blinking lights), dont tell me I have to go to autozone to get my cel checked
Thanks
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 34
From: hollyyyywooood
better?
So I went to autozone, got MAF cleaner, they said 'we dont read codes'
Sooooo. I dont have a scan tool. Newest year car Ive owned in a while. So gonna spray the MAf and see what happens. Just drove the car to/from autozone, all was good.
I think I can hear a leak under the manifold(?) but not sure. I dread its not the gasket leak from upper lower, but its just this little hose that makes or breaks it?!
so frustrated.
So I went to autozone, got MAF cleaner, they said 'we dont read codes'
Sooooo. I dont have a scan tool. Newest year car Ive owned in a while. So gonna spray the MAf and see what happens. Just drove the car to/from autozone, all was good.
I think I can hear a leak under the manifold(?) but not sure. I dread its not the gasket leak from upper lower, but its just this little hose that makes or breaks it?!
so frustrated.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 34
From: hollyyyywooood
exactly, the azones by my house are a-holes.
So I cleaned MAF, dried, unplugged battery, put back, and ....NOTHING
Still the same symptoms, got a video up (sound wasnt loaded
)
quality is low cus of sweaty fingers on the lens
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WnLCKrmR14
so the only culprit I can pinpoint is the gold colored cylinder that the hose plugs into.
1. hose is attached, the pin sucks in and pulls in the throttle control, car dies.
2. Hose disconnected, throttle control stops and idle stays, car stays on.
3. wtf?
any suggestions guys?
This **** is driving me mad!!!!
Maybe I should adjust the throttle cables?
barf
So I cleaned MAF, dried, unplugged battery, put back, and ....NOTHING
Still the same symptoms, got a video up (sound wasnt loaded
)quality is low cus of sweaty fingers on the lens
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WnLCKrmR14
so the only culprit I can pinpoint is the gold colored cylinder that the hose plugs into.
1. hose is attached, the pin sucks in and pulls in the throttle control, car dies.
2. Hose disconnected, throttle control stops and idle stays, car stays on.
3. wtf?
any suggestions guys?
This **** is driving me mad!!!!
Maybe I should adjust the throttle cables?
barf
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 933
From: Vancouver, BC
That vacuum pot actuator is the "throttle opener" which "cracks" the throttle open on engine starting until the engine starts and develops vacuum which then pulls the throttle opener stop back out of the way. The throttle will then be on the fixed stop at idle, just as you commented on. This throttle opener was used on certain '00 cars only, from what I've gleaned from the Gen. 5 FSMs over the years. My '00 had it. The fact that your engine will idle when you remove this hose from the throttle opener indicates that your IACV is not operating correctly. This "open" disconnected hose is allowing enough air past the closed throttle to allow the engine to idle. The IACV is not opening sufficiently or not at all. Normally you should hear the IACV stepper motor operate when you turn the ign. switch from OFF to ON......indicated by a momentary electronic "buzz" (per the FSM). Same when going from ON to OFF. Do you hear this sound? It is possible I suppose that the IACV air passage in the TB is gummed up with crud.......also something that you can check for.
As a sidenote: I have just traded in my Maxi on a new Lexus ES 350, so I guess it's goodbye to this Forum. Good luck to everyone.
As a sidenote: I have just traded in my Maxi on a new Lexus ES 350, so I guess it's goodbye to this Forum. Good luck to everyone.
Last edited by P. Samson; Jul 20, 2011 at 11:46 PM.
Not in California. The automotive repair lobby felt it was taking too much business away from them to allow AZ or anybody else to rent out code readers. So they made it illegal for code readers to be rented.
Yea, you read that right. Like the $80 an hour shop rate had nothing to do with people trying to fix their own junk.
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 181
From: Western Pennsylvania
Not in California. The automotive repair lobby felt it was taking too much business away from them to allow AZ or anybody else to rent out code readers. So they made it illegal for code readers to be rented.
Yea, you read that right. Like the $80 an hour shop rate had nothing to do with people trying to fix their own junk.
Yea, you read that right. Like the $80 an hour shop rate had nothing to do with people trying to fix their own junk.
Yeesh.... Glad I live in the North east
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 34
From: hollyyyywooood
That vacuum pot actuator is the "throttle opener" which "cracks" the throttle open on engine starting until the engine starts and develops vacuum which then pulls the throttle opener stop back out of the way. The throttle will then be on the fixed stop at idle, just as you commented on. This throttle opener was used on certain '00 cars only, from what I've gleaned from the Gen. 5 FSMs over the years. My '00 had it. The fact that your engine will idle when you remove this hose from the throttle opener indicates that your IACV is not operating correctly. This "open" disconnected hose is allowing enough air past the closed throttle to allow the engine to idle. The IACV is not opening sufficiently or not at all. Normally you should hear the IACV stepper motor operate when you turn the ign. switch from OFF to ON......indicated by a momentary electronic "buzz" (per the FSM). Same when going from ON to OFF. Do you hear this sound? It is possible I suppose that the IACV air passage in the TB is gummed up with crud.......also something that you can check for.
As a sidenote: I have just traded in my Maxi on a new Lexus ES 350, so I guess it's goodbye to this Forum. Good luck to everyone.
As a sidenote: I have just traded in my Maxi on a new Lexus ES 350, so I guess it's goodbye to this Forum. Good luck to everyone.
Not in California. The automotive repair lobby felt it was taking too much business away from them to allow AZ or anybody else to rent out code readers. So they made it illegal for code readers to be rented.
Yea, you read that right. Like the $80 an hour shop rate had nothing to do with people trying to fix their own junk.
Yea, you read that right. Like the $80 an hour shop rate had nothing to do with people trying to fix their own junk.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 34
From: hollyyyywooood
So I just ripped into everything. thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the IACV and the iac sensor (black thing I took out)
So Im wondering if I should even put everything back on?
Should I just give up and order a new IAC?
There was some coolant goop in the IAC. Cleaned but possibly not fixed?
Thanks
So Im wondering if I should even put everything back on?
Should I just give up and order a new IAC?
There was some coolant goop in the IAC. Cleaned but possibly not fixed?
Thanks
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