02 Auto erratic shifting only when warmed up
09-19-2011, 12:34 PM
#1
02 Auto erratic shifting only when warmed up
-2002 4AT
-90k miles
-No codes/no SES light
I've read through dozens of threads and haven't been able to find any help. I bought my 02 4AT about 6 months ago so I'm not sure when the last time the tranny was serviced.
About a month ago it started slamming into second gear on acceleration (not just a little roughness, it feels like you're running over somebody or something), but only after the engine was warmed up and the car had been driven 10 minutes or so. When the engine/tranny fluid are cold all shifts are smooth as butter. All other gears shift fine, its only the 1-2 shift that slams. I also have an occasional flare between 2-3, but only at medium throttle.
Also, if I am turning (i,e. turning out onto a main road from a side street) it shifts perfectly fine. But if I'm going straight (taking off from a red light) itll slam into gear.
I did a drain/fill and it made a very slight improvement in the harshness of the shifts, but not by much.
I'm completely stumped as to what the problem could be. I adjusted the engine ground screws according the symptom chart in the FSM, but made no difference. I have an appointment with a local transmission shop on wednesday, but any help/advice/opinions from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
-90k miles
-No codes/no SES light
I've read through dozens of threads and haven't been able to find any help. I bought my 02 4AT about 6 months ago so I'm not sure when the last time the tranny was serviced.
About a month ago it started slamming into second gear on acceleration (not just a little roughness, it feels like you're running over somebody or something), but only after the engine was warmed up and the car had been driven 10 minutes or so. When the engine/tranny fluid are cold all shifts are smooth as butter. All other gears shift fine, its only the 1-2 shift that slams. I also have an occasional flare between 2-3, but only at medium throttle.
Also, if I am turning (i,e. turning out onto a main road from a side street) it shifts perfectly fine. But if I'm going straight (taking off from a red light) itll slam into gear.
I did a drain/fill and it made a very slight improvement in the harshness of the shifts, but not by much.
I'm completely stumped as to what the problem could be. I adjusted the engine ground screws according the symptom chart in the FSM, but made no difference. I have an appointment with a local transmission shop on wednesday, but any help/advice/opinions from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
09-19-2011, 01:17 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
Maybe something it's wrong in the transmission's vb (valve body) that cause that it opens in a rough way. Did you ever changed the ATF or even checked the ATF conditions?
The old ATF can cause a malfunction in your A/T, with the mileage and time the ATF degrades and doesn't do a good work and the presence of contaminants doesn't help in anyway. Check your ATF and remember:
Bright red = Good condition
Brown = Old ATF
Dark brown almost black = Old and burned ATF
Pink = water in your ATF
Greetings
The old ATF can cause a malfunction in your A/T, with the mileage and time the ATF degrades and doesn't do a good work and the presence of contaminants doesn't help in anyway. Check your ATF and remember:
Bright red = Good condition
Brown = Old ATF
Dark brown almost black = Old and burned ATF
Pink = water in your ATF
Greetings
09-19-2011, 03:50 PM
#4
Solenoid or VB, possibly even the TCM.
1.) Solenoids
2.) VB
3.) TCM
Solenoids and VB are easy to change, it's finding a replacement VB for a good price that is difficult since most junkyards wont sell them separate from the transmission.
No AT light?
1.) Solenoids
2.) VB
3.) TCM
Solenoids and VB are easy to change, it's finding a replacement VB for a good price that is difficult since most junkyards wont sell them separate from the transmission.
No AT light?
09-19-2011, 07:18 PM
#5
^Nope no AT light. It comes on with the rest of the lights at startup but shuts back off. AT light would be very helpful with diagnosis but unfortunately it hasn't come on yet.
Last edited by 02pearlmax; 09-19-2011 at 07:30 PM.
09-20-2011, 08:03 AM
#7
Yes it does. It doesn't flash or anything it just stays on a bit longer than the others. I tried searching for info about that light but nothing came up, and the light did the same thing when I bought it in February and the transmission was functioning perfectly then, so I figured it was normal. Is that not supposed to happen??
09-20-2011, 08:12 AM
#8
Yes it does. It doesn't flash or anything it just stays on a bit longer than the others. I tried searching for info about that light but nothing came up, and the light did the same thing when I bought it in February and the transmission was functioning perfectly then, so I figured it was normal. Is that not supposed to happen??
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2003/at.pdf
Start on Page 53.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 09-20-2011 at 08:19 AM.
09-20-2011, 08:21 AM
#9
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
Agree with you. Sometimes the solenoids just "get tired" and doesn't work properly. Sometimes they can be re-builded but it's better if you get all the VB but it's better if you can get it brand new (or re-manufactured).
09-20-2011, 08:27 AM
#10
Hmm, try the diagnostics in the FSM.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2003/at.pdf
Start on Page 53.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2003/at.pdf
Start on Page 53.
Last edited by 02pearlmax; 09-20-2011 at 08:30 AM.
09-20-2011, 07:32 PM
#12
Sorry for the misunderstanding haha. I'm surprised I didn't see that when I made the thread title.
09-20-2011, 08:30 PM
#13
Do yourself a favor and make sure your motor mounts are in good condition. Sometimes a bad mount can cause what feels like a harsh shift. It's worth looking into before you look elsewhere. just my .02
09-21-2011, 12:51 PM
#14
Transmission shop did a scan/visual inspection, came up with nothing. They want a rebuild for $2500, but said I should be able to get another 50-60k miles out of it. Idk if I believe that number though. I tried getting the AT check light to flash with the FSM procedure but I couldn't get it to work. I think I'll take NmexMax's advice and replace the solenoids first and see what happens.
09-21-2011, 01:18 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
Transmission shop did a scan/visual inspection, came up with nothing. They want a rebuild for $2500, but said I should be able to get another 50-60k miles out of it. Idk if I believe that number though. I tried getting the AT check light to flash with the FSM procedure but I couldn't get it to work. I think I'll take NmexMax's advice and replace the solenoids first and see what happens.
Scams, Scams everywhere!
And later why some shops are angry when more and more people prefer a DIY job or diagnosis.
09-21-2011, 01:59 PM
#16
I'm not sure 
is up with that procedure, but I've tried it many many many times and it has yet to work for me.
1.) Either the FSM is flawed
2.) Maybe I suck at it, BUT, I can nail the SES codes/IAVL/ etc. on a dime w/o my FSM in a parking lot multiple times, so I'm not sure about this one.
Solenoids and VB are easy, albeit not cheap.
is up with that procedure, but I've tried it many many many times and it has yet to work for me. 1.) Either the FSM is flawed
2.) Maybe I suck at it, BUT, I can nail the SES codes/IAVL/ etc. on a dime w/o my FSM in a parking lot multiple times, so I'm not sure about this one.
Solenoids and VB are easy, albeit not cheap.
09-21-2011, 06:23 PM
#17
The FSM must be incorrect or something. It tells you to shift into D with the key in ACC, but you can't shift into D unless the ignition is at ON. So I tried doing it by pressing in the shift lock button to get it to move, but it still didn't work. Perhaps its a procedure for the 5th gens that they forgot to update for the 5.5 gens. 
Im gonna do another drain and fill while dropping the pan and cleaning the magnets/screen too and see if it makes any difference. After that then its time to start saving for a new solenoid pack.
Thanks for the responses and info though. I'll update when I get around to new solenoids.
Im gonna do another drain and fill while dropping the pan and cleaning the magnets/screen too and see if it makes any difference. After that then its time to start saving for a new solenoid pack.
Thanks for the responses and info though. I'll update when I get around to new solenoids.
09-22-2011, 06:41 AM
#20
The FSM must be incorrect or something. It tells you to shift into D with the key in ACC, but you can't shift into D unless the ignition is at ON. So I tried doing it by pressing in the shift lock button to get it to move, but it still didn't work. Perhaps its a procedure for the 5th gens that they forgot to update for the 5.5 gens.
09-22-2011, 10:03 AM
#25
Yeah I experimented releasing the pedal at different times, but none were successful. Silly Nissan. They probably just forgot to put in the part where you have to open and close the door 4 times at 76 mph while making a sandwich.
09-22-2011, 10:12 AM
#26
Niice take I like that.
09-22-2011, 01:09 PM
#28
Had a similar problem with my first max and it was the MAF sensor, I almost rebuilt my trans but never got around to it thinking it was bad.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...urus-step.html
What happens if you floor it (drive at WOT)?
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...urus-step.html
What happens if you floor it (drive at WOT)?
09-22-2011, 01:58 PM
#29
Had a similar problem with my first max and it was the MAF sensor, I almost rebuilt my trans but never got around to it thinking it was bad.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...urus-step.html
What happens if you floor it (drive at WOT)?
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...urus-step.html
What happens if you floor it (drive at WOT)?
09-22-2011, 02:09 PM
#30
Did you look at my thread? If my rpoblem sounds similar to yours I suggest you replace the MAF (way cheaper) before throwing out all tha money to rebuild it.
And btw IMO not worht to rebuild I would just throw in a used one.
And btw IMO not worht to rebuild I would just throw in a used one.
09-22-2011, 02:17 PM
#31
I cleaned the MAF a couple months ago, and my gas mileage and everything else is fine so I'm not exactly suspicious of the MAF just yet, despite horror stories like yours and many others.
I read through your thread before when I was digging through old threads, and while I realize its completely possible that it could be the MAF, I would rather rule out the solenoids and VB first since they seem to be more likely in my case.
Thanks for the tip though. I'm gonna clean the MAF again and see what happens.
I read through your thread before when I was digging through old threads, and while I realize its completely possible that it could be the MAF, I would rather rule out the solenoids and VB first since they seem to be more likely in my case.
Thanks for the tip though. I'm gonna clean the MAF again and see what happens.
09-22-2011, 02:27 PM
#32
Well thats what I was doing constantly cleaning it but until I actually checked the voltages for the diiferent rpm/throttle positions ( i had an safc but there is a thread on how to do this with a voltmeter) I would have never knew! the other symptons weren't that obvious since it was misbehaving only at certain rpms/throttle positions.
11-19-2011, 09:07 PM
#33
I cleaned the MAF a couple months ago, and my gas mileage and everything else is fine so I'm not exactly suspicious of the MAF just yet, despite horror stories like yours and many others.
I read through your thread before when I was digging through old threads, and while I realize its completely possible that it could be the MAF, I would rather rule out the solenoids and VB first since they seem to be more likely in my case.
Thanks for the tip though. I'm gonna clean the MAF again and see what happens.
I read through your thread before when I was digging through old threads, and while I realize its completely possible that it could be the MAF, I would rather rule out the solenoids and VB first since they seem to be more likely in my case.
Thanks for the tip though. I'm gonna clean the MAF again and see what happens.
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