I will be replacing these parts this week due to the dreaded evap leak code. The local autozone can order these parts for me or I can buy them at the dealership. From past experience, the OEM Nissan units seem to fail frequently. Is it a good idea to try the aftermarket set? Has anyone experienced aftermarket? Thoughts?

 

Odds are the AZ unit will have a lifetime warranty so that's better than Nissan OEM can do.

The only time I've ever seen an EVAP leak on a local car was when the owner scraped the holy hell out of the undercarriage and damage the canister. Mine is still in good shape.

A young Natalie Portman FTW

 

Yeah, Im having the p1456 small leak evap detected. So Im looking to replace the purge valve and the canister.

Yes Natalie portman...:drool

 

Don't mean to steal the thread but I my question actually has to do with the topic.

Are these parts interchangeable between 5th and 5.5 gens?

By the way, for small evap leaks, have you tried the gas cap? I changed mine and it fixed my small evap leak.

 

O/t, but she looked better with the pink hair in "Closer"

 

Got a new purge valve from Oreilly autoparts. It's the dorman unit...For some reason, there arent 2 holes or bolts for the valve. Searched online and both the dorman 911-503, which I have and the 911-502 both fit my 2003 maxima. But for some reason, the 911-503, which I have doesnt have those two spots for the bolts!?!?

 

you can probably use something like a rtv sealant

 

I love Natalie Portman, specially in Black Swan

 

 

thanks for the thread OP, definately going to check out the local AZ or pissboys for these parts, as OEM is a pretty penny,
I have had the p1456 for almost 2 years now
I tried the gas cap and it worked after opening the tank 3 times at fill ups, and then came back after opening a few more times.
When it gets cleared for inspection it stays away for about 1-2 weeks and comes back.

OP please let us know how the R+R goes, and can u post the AZ part numbers? or are the dorman 911-503 all you need?

 

I'm sure you could figure out how to drill a couple holes in the plastic flange of the valve

 

How hard is it to change the canister and valve? My gf 03 max is going to **** because of the p1456 code. The dealership wants 680 to change these parts, i dont want to pay that much if I cant do this myself.

 

I've had an evap code also since shortly after purchasing my 02 last Fall. Something interesting happened in the Spring after I shot some rustproofing (thick oily spray can substance) in the area around the evap canister- my check engine light went away. My interpretation is that a leak exists in the tubing (or a vented valve?) for the evap system, since that's the area I sprayed, and that the rustproofing temporarily reduced or sealed the leak. I mention this for the OP's benefit, because of the cost of the parts you're considering replacing. The vapor canister and tubing/valves are easily accessible, might be worth a careful once over before replacing.

 

Changing the canister and valve is a piece of cake. Except for the fact that everything is usually rusted pretty bad under there, so you are sure to snap a 6mm bolt or 2

 

there isnt a flange

 

Im going to look into this, maybe spraying the whole dang thing with something to close up the leak. maybe undercoating is what im guessing you sprayed.