Hi I just did the plugs on my 03 Max, followed the write up here and everything went smoothly. That is until i pulled out the last plug which is cylinder 5 I believe. When i took it out there was oil inside the cylinder on the top of the plug and on the coil pack. So was just wondering what could that be? All other plugs had no oil inside the cylinders or on the coil packs. Should I be a little worried here?

 

Since you can't search because search is busted lately...

...use a rag, a long screwdriver, and lots of patience to clean out that oil. Then purchase the rear valve cover for the 2004 Maxima. There is a widely known design flaw in the 5.5 gen rear VC exactly at your point of failure. A new 5.5 gen VC would run about $150, whereas a new 6.0 gen VC runs about $50, fits perfectly, and won't fail down the road.

/thread

 

Yup tube seal failure. Like Roch said get the 04 valve cover Ive seen this problem with lots of 5.5 gens.

 

Had same issue, used 6th gen cover three years ago and still working perfectly, good luck

 

Wow phew ok thanks a lot for that quick answer, I thought it would have been something worse. So just need the 04 valve cover and a new seal probably too?

 

2004 VC with gasket and RTV. Read up on the proper application of RTV around the lower corners... which are also prone to leakage without a perfect install. Look to the FSM on the proper bolt pattern and appropriate torque settings for the VC bolts. There's a specific technique.

No sense in doing the other VC unless it's also leaking, but if you're looking for peace of mind... not a bad idea to do both.

 

The seals are integral on the Valve cover, all you need is the Valve cover and gasket, and some RTV silicone for peace of mind.

Basically just Do everything Rochester said

 

Or you can get the felpro gasket kit if they have one I hate using rtv so Ive always used those kits instead.

 

I'm thinking the key here is following the two-pass technique in the FSM, with the proper bolt pattern and torque specifications.

My mechanic would be so proud of me for actually paying attention to this crap.

 

The real trick is keeping the damn gasket alligned while installing. Everything else is cake.

FYI, that's one of the main reasons for the RTV, you apply it to one side to hold the gasket in place while you shimmy the VC into place. If you don't the gasket falls out of position and makes the job a *explitive delete*

 

I just really want to thank you all for all the info really appreciate it. I just got back from the dealer with the VC gasket and RTV.

Btw: what does FSM stand for? lol sorry for the noobish question

 

factory service manual

 

Specifically, page EM-45

 

Pay attention to torque specs, as I recall they are in Inch Pounds, not Foot Pounds. Ask me how I know! NOT my finest moment, but feel free to laugh!

 

I'm laughing, but it's all good.

We've all done stuff like that. Guess how many different wires I tapped into before getting my side-marker mod to blink with the turn signals? I'm not proud.

 

Also have this problem ! getting this done before winter storage.

Btw Rochester, any links to this sidemarker blinker mod ?

 

What would such a leak cause in real life? Other than a probable CEL and misfire, would it affect idle? I read it shouldn't really affect fuel economy/ performance, is that correct?

 

Wow...I learned something new! I'm going to replace mine. SUCKS! I guess being the 1st Gen VQ35 they had alot of things they needed to iron some of the kinks out.

 

I have the same problem on the same cylinder, but I have a 3.0. Will a new Valve Cover fix mine as well?

 

Sorry, no. Search has been broken for a while now. It's a very interesting mod.

With the sidemarkers off, they blink in sync with the turn signals, which is kind of irrelevant because it's hard to see the sidemarkers during the daylight. However, with the sidemarkers on (dusk/evening), they blink in alternating opposition to the turn signals, with is a fascinating thing to see.

It's a simple wiring mod. Snip, tap, and you're done. And easier to access than the foglight wiring mod.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...er-rewire.html

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=160

 

How hard is it to replace the rear VC? I know you have to take the upper mani and remove spark plugs, but do you need to remove the lower mani? Is it something I can do in the parking lot of my apartment? Anyone done this before how long does it take? I also just had spacers installed so would it be hard to break the seal of the sealant on the spacers?

 

The VC replacement is not hard but does take time and attention to detail.you can do it in about 90 minutes.Pay attention to the routing of wires and such also try not to unplug your TB just kind of move it out the way or you will have to do a relearn.Also make sure you seal everything up good by doing a cleaning to all the mating surfaces and stuff some clean rags in the ports of the lower manifold so nothing drops in there.

 

I know you've got all kinds of plans pending for the car, and that you've been seeing a mechanic for this work. Given those observations, I recommend you pick up the parts you need, and keep them in the closet until your next mechanic-installed mods and/or repairs. Otherwise you're fixing something that isn't broken yet. In the meantime, you've learned something, and you can keep an eye out for oil leaks and/or low oil (outside the normal oil burning, if you got that going on.)

Being a 2002 car, your lower oil pan is probably on its way out the door, too.

 

You're right. I was kind of using this as an excuse to take the car apart and learn. I can just have them change to 6th gen VCs when I get the cams/springs done next year. That would make more sense than taking it apart for no reason. Thanks Roc!

 

You're welcome. Here's a little more unsolicited advice:

In addition to your lower oil pan, I bet you dollars to doughnuts that both of your oil coolant pipes are rotting away. These are two little metal pipes that route coolant fluid to and from the housing where the oil filter screws in. They're like $20 to $30 each. The lower oil pan runs around $90.

VC's aren't the only improvement that's plug-n-play to the 5.5. There's a shifter bracket on the 5.5 6MT that's been known to snap, and was redesigned for the 6.0 gen 6MT. Although this inexpensive "mod" probably only applies if you beat the living crap out of your car, like at the strip. Daily drivers probably don't have to worry.

Winter is almost here. Start a collection.

 

Don't remind me about winter! It's been like 75* plus here all long weekend.
I noticed oil on two of my right bank,(rear), plugs last summer when I changed them. It was on a Sunday, so I couldn't get a new vc.
I installed NWP spacers last month and while I had it apart, I installed the new 6th gen. valve cover. No harm done in waiting. It only took about an extra 30 mins. or so while I had the upper mani off. Make sure you clean everything well and pay close attention to the tightening sequence and torque specs. As mentioned, they are Inch Pounds.

 

Just wanted to come back here and thank you for the help again. Went back in there today and did the job fairly quickly felt really easy the 2nd time around. Did everything you said with the torque and the silicone. Hopefully no leaks will come from changing out that VC gasket gotta keep an eye on that the next few days.

 

Anyone? It is a common issue for the 3.5's, I want to know if it's serious before looking for it, otherwise I will check it during maintenance next spring.

 

Like I said, I left mine for over a year once I discovered it. No problems. I'd leave it 'till spring.